Builds Mike's 1978 FJ40 Turbo Diesel Refit Project and Cross Country Road Trip! (1 Viewer)

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Looks like it was for the return fuel line to the tank
Mine passed through the grommet through the floor and then had nothing on the other side. No nipple/bead for a hose even. On the other side of the floor there is nothing.

It must have been a vent or drain of some sort?


Mike
 
And skipping all the wiring and circuitry here's the additional gauge added to the dash:
View attachment 2068437


It communicates with the DD dash via CANbus signal, so I can put whatever I want in the additional gauge which is nice. Also I didn't have to drill any holes in the dash, just ran the wires through the Brake/Seatbelt warning bezel. These warnings are now plumbed into the cluster as well.

Mike

Mike, I meant to talk to you about this when we met as SAS but I didn't get a chance with all the other craziness that was going on - where did you get this quad guage? Does it have to use CAN to run, or can it run independently? How is your gearbox temp monitoring going? Avg temps? I remember you showing me the air duct you added to your t-case, what kind of delta did that have on temps? As much data as possible please, if you care to share :)
 
Mike, I meant to talk to you about this when we met as SAS but I didn't get a chance with all the other craziness that was going on - where did you get this quad guage? Does it have to use CAN to run, or can it run independently? How is your gearbox temp monitoring going? Avg temps? I remember you showing me the air duct you added to your t-case, what kind of delta did that have on temps? As much data as possible please, if you care to share :)

I worked with Dakota Digital and developed this gauge to communicate via CAN with my cluster. I then made the bezel to fit where I wanted it.

They make the screen for another application with its own bezel, but my application had a different footprint.

As for the transfer case, I didn't get much data before and after the duct so I'm not too sure how effective it is. I originally made it to put a brake duct fan in, but haven't bothered yet. I'm sure a brake duct fan would knock the temps down 10-15*.

As for the temps I see, its very speed and load dependent. Around town it never gets over ~180*f. on a 120*f day like on the way to SAS when i was pushing 80+mph through those hills I saw high 240's and even hit 250* once and pulled over. The box cools quickly if you leave it in neutral and the trans in gear with the clutch out.

I added a new fill hole up top and now I put exactly 2x quarts of redline heavy shockproof in it. It decently increased the time constant with the extra oil which makes it very manageable.

I just drove another 3000 mile trip through Utah and back and never saw the temps above 235*. It was of course a high of ~95* this time.

Keep in mind that everything was hot that time when I hit 250. Including myself. It was nice to pull over for a bit haha

It hasn't been enough of an issue thus far to warrant me doing anything more about it.


Mike
 
That is great info. Thank you.
I am running a split case so it’s a bit better in terms of high speed/load situations but I’m still concerned about it’s longevity with multiple cross country runs at 85-90mph in high temps. Same story with my doubler.
 
That is great info. Thank you.
I am running a split case so it’s a bit better in terms of high speed/load situations but I’m still concerned about it’s longevity with multiple cross country runs at 85-90mph in high temps. Same story with my doubler.
Split case should be better at dissipating heat than what I've got due to the aluminum case and increase in surface area. I'm sure the standard gear set is a little happier at high speed over the 4:1 set as well. My intermediate case runs cool. It is always exactly in the middle between transmission and orion temperature. That is unless I'm using the 2.3 for fire roads or in the sand in which case it begins to heat up and out run the other two boxes.

Is your reduction box a planetary? Those will generate a bit more heat that's for sure.

Mike
 
Ok Guys it's probably time for an update...

I'm not going to post too many details yet on this but I did design nd build a custom AC system at the end of the summer:

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I get a constant 38*F out the vent on cool regardless of outside conditions:

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I have a hole in my roof here so stuck this out of it:
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Lost no interior/footwell space over original and maintained the outside air and recirc along with all original functionality. Also now I have a true defrost :)
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One of the best parts is now the blower is nearly silent even on the highest setting.

I'm not ready to share the details because I'm not sure if I want to try to reproduce it or not. On one hand It works really great and is simple and retains all original functionality and looks, but on he other hand I'm really busy.
 
Ok after the AC was finished I went off on a 2 week trip through MOAB and surrounding area:
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We camped and 4-wheeled a ton with my buddies and there side by sides and motor bikes.

The truck ran awesome and the AC was really nice to have. Now I can roll the windows up and not get dusted out!
 
Our camp site in MOAB:
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Went to the LC Museum:
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Got the truck to 103 on the salt flats an the way back west:


After getting home about 3000 miles later I noticed some corrosion on the inside of the drivers side knuckle ball:
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Tore it down and cleaned it all up:
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Threw a weld on the top of the pin:
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I cleaned up a ton of little areas where the seal would get pinched at full lock. Before the steering stops were set I must have pinched the stuff. So after cleaning it all up it got new seals and such:
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After that is was back to the streets:




Thanks,

Mike
 
Last edited:
Ok Guys it's probably time for an update...

I'm not going to post too many details yet on this but I did design nd build a custom AC system at the end of the summer:

View attachment 2511764

I get a constant 38*F out the vent on cool regardless of outside conditions:

View attachment 2511765

I have a hole in my roof here so stuck this out of it:
View attachment 2511771

Lost no interior/footwell space over original and maintained the outside air and recirc along with all original functionality. Also now I have a true defrost :)View attachment 2511774
View attachment 2511772

One of the best parts is now the blower is nearly silent even on the highest setting.

I'm not ready to share the details because I'm not sure if I want to try to reproduce it or not. On one hand It works really great and is simple and retains all original functionality and looks, but on he other hand I'm really busy.

I'd love to see how you ended up doing the AC. I really like that you kept the factory heater and just integrated it. Where did you get the new A/C pull knob?
 
I have a few other odds and ends I missed.

Before MOAB I went up to big bear to measure for the new tires and decided to replace the bump stops:
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Before the trip along with oil changes and other preventative maintenance I also added an AEM dry-flow and pre-filter to replace the old K&N:
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I tore the piping down and found no evidence of debris passing through the K&N but this one is supposed to be a bit finer and fits the air box I built a little better, and the pre-filter will help to spread the debris out on the element further away from the box's opening. Neither one has registered on the restriction gauge so it is still plenty oversized.


Mike
 
Here's what would eventually happen without the sock:
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Now I don't feel like re-making the box or adding a baffle so this will have to do. It was 20k miles since I cleaned it so that was a bit long anyways...

The new filter is well made. You can see it is very resistant to collapse:
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I also added a 4" SPAL fan to the cooler on the air compressor. Its a huge difference- Before if I aired the tires up by the time I filled all 4 and came back to the first one the first would have dropped ~2PSIG. Now the air is cool enough that it is the same as where I set it the first time. Also the head of the compressor runs cool enough that I can tough it now. It used to get over 180*F.

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Zip ties on the top for now to test it, I will make something more permanent when (if) I get back around to it.

Here's two quick videos of the tire clearance at lock. It actually barely hits the bib now when its on the bump stop when at full steering lock:

Pass side:



Drivers side:




And a few pictures of the water getting in:
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Now this is all sealed up and packed with RCV's mucho expensive grease..


Mike
 
Here are some more shots of the AC stuff:
Variable displacement compressor:
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Installed:
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Lines:
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Condenser:
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Screens all around:
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Lines to the evaporator and location of the drier:
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Lines and cables that run to the rear:
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The positive displacement compressor works so amazingly well it kind of blew my mind. The only oversight was that it never cycles like a standard compressor. I though it still would so I ran my fans off the clutch signal. I need a 3-way switch to run the fans off the high side pressure and then it will be golden.

The condenser out back is as big as it can be. I went back to the AC charge guy 4 times during different conditions and the high side pressure was still over 100PSIG below the threshold so the condenser setup is well oversized.


Mike
 
Absolutely baller. What’s that compressor original application?
 
Absolutely baller. What’s that compressor original application?

So they used this on a ton of cars. VW/Audi used them on a lot of their longitudinal mounted engines in the early 2000's. Differences are mainly clutch/pully and the amount of oil they ship with.

This is the predecessor to the ECU controlled variable displacement compressors of today. It looks at the pressure ratio of inlet to outlet to keep the temperature constant by changing displacement. At higher RPM displacement drops ect.

The trick with my setup was to drain it and have it all filled with respect to the amount of refrigerant put in. It was an iterative process to get the oil volume correct.

Mike
 

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