Builds Mike's 1978 FJ40 Turbo Diesel Refit Project and Cross Country Road Trip! (1 Viewer)

DangerNoodle

Essentially a fire wielding monkey.
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I ran these for years:

But just recently switched to this with a sock:


Now I have a filter restriction gauge and neither of these has registered on the gauge yet.

The gauge is very sensitive. I cover a bit of the snorkel inlet with my hand and it will max it out at idle.

I ran an AEM dry-flow on my previous truck for many years as well.

Out here in this fine dust the AEM is probably the safer bet.

Both these selections were the largest I could fit in the footprint I have.

The diesel does not have the peak air flow you might see on your V8 but there is no throttle so over the the same timeframe there will be a lot more air mass that has been flowed through my filter than most spark ignition engines. Hence the larger elements on diesels!

Mike

Do you have any pictures of your setup?
 
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Some pictures from years ago:

1613672273236.png
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Now some from today:
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You can see I made a few clearance mods through the years.

Mike
 
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Do you have any pictures of your setup?
Here's a few more shots that might help.

I built it this way because I had this 8" tube and found the biggest filter I coul online with a 4" opening. It was a 7" filter so then i ended up with what was on the right:
1614104579059.png


The issue was there was only 1/2" around it to get the air flow. What would happen is the area nearest to the opening would get all the air flow/debris. Once it would clofg there the flow would move further from the opening and start dirtying the rest of the filter:


1614104947263.png


This was after only a few hundred miles in NY before leaving for the cross country trip:
1614105444743.png


This is what would happen after being neglected for nearly 20k miles:
1614104641837.png


You can see it gets cleaner as you got further from the inlet. The solution was to either build a baffle or to get a smaller diameter filter.

Better yet a 6" diameter filter with a sock:
1614104615557.png


This seems to be the perfect size.

Th pleats are even deeper on this filter and the internal cage is strong. It probably has close to the surface area of the 7" filter.
 
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You should be just fine with your vehicle/tire setup for normal snow wheeling. It might struggle a little if the snow is really deep and fluffy, but aired down to >10psi it should float pretty good. A few years ago when I had my G-Wagen I took it out in the snow as frequently as possible, and it did pretty well even though it weighed 5100lbs. I ran 37x12.5x16 Swampers and generally had both diff locks in. I was able to plow through waist deep fluffy snow.
Screen Shot 2021-02-23 at 4.48.03 PM.png
 
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You should be just fine with your vehicle/tire setup for normal snow wheeling. It might struggle a little if the snow is really deep and fluffy, but aired down to >10psi it should float pretty good. A few years ago when I had my G-Wagen I took it out in the snow as frequently as possible, and it did pretty well even though it weighed 5100lbs. I ran 37x12.5x16 Swampers and generally had both diff locks in. I was able to plow through waist deep fluffy snow.
View attachment 2594378

I am hopeful to still get up in the mountains this year.

I am going to Baja Mx this coming week but hopefully it doesn't melt until a few weeks from now!

G-Wagen looks awesome!

What is the story with that one? It appears to be a diesel as well?


Mike
 
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The G-Wagen was built by the person I bought it from, he had swapped the 2.8L gas engine for an OM617 turbo, then put in an upgraded IP with 7.5mm elements, 314 injector nozzles, and a Holset HX30. It could really scoot along. It also had a 2" body lift, 2" spring lift, 6.17 diffs, Oasis onboard air and hydro boost brakes. By far the most capable vehicle I've owned, and I still regret having to sell it. Someday I'll get another one, there is really nothing built like an older G-Wagen.

BTW, awesome job on your BHW swap! I wish I'd had a BHW available when I started my TDI project, but the ALH works fine for me and I don't think I'll need more power once I get a Stage 4 tune installed.
 
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The G-Wagen was built by the person I bought it from, he had swapped the 2.8L gas engine for an OM617 turbo, then put in an upgraded IP with 7.5mm elements, 314 injector nozzles, and a Holset HX30. It could really scoot along. It also had a 2" body lift, 2" spring lift, 6.17 diffs, Oasis onboard air and hydro boost brakes. By far the most capable vehicle I've owned, and I still regret having to sell it. Someday I'll get another one, there is really nothing built like an older G-Wagen.

BTW, awesome job on your BHW swap! I wish I'd had a BHW available when I started my TDI project, but the ALH works fine for me and I don't think I'll need more power once I get a Stage 4 tune installed.
The little TDI's are surely impressive!

I had a built up AHU and it pulled my mini truck around even towing u-hauls with full sized cars around. Great engines.

And the G Wagen is great. I always wondered what the OM617a would have been like if I moved over to a new injection pump. Sounds like the pump and turbo really woke it up for you. The IDI is really what turned me off of the whole thing. I am a DI diesel guy!

Mike
 
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Yeah, with the pump, injectors and 18psi waste gate the 617 did pretty well, though I never drove it without those mods. The low geared diffs and automatic transmission definitely helped too, but it ran out of speed by about 70mph. DI is definitely a lot better, my ALH hardly ever sees more than 1200ºF EGT even when pulling a 4600lb vehicle up hills, and coolant temps stay pretty steady too. The G-Wagen was non-intercooled, and could easily pass 1300ºF if I wasn't careful.
 
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Yeah, with the pump, injectors and 18psi waste gate the 617 did pretty well, though I never drove it without those mods. The low geared diffs and automatic transmission definitely helped too, but it ran out of speed by about 70mph. DI is definitely a lot better, my ALH hardly ever sees more than 1200ºF EGT even when pulling a 4600lb vehicle up hills, and coolant temps stay pretty steady too. The G-Wagen was non-intercooled, and could easily pass 1300ºF if I wasn't careful.
All that extra heat transferring into the cylinder head from the pre-chambers ruined it for me.

Mine was a dog. I tuned it up the best I could without the injection pump. The pump was a big expense with unknown returns.

Mine was geared too wide. The 6.17's definitely helped you out there. I bet the more modern Holset helped out a bit too. The 617 likes to spin fast that's for sure!

Mike
 
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All that extra heat transferring into the cylinder head from the pre-chambers ruined it for me.

Mine was a dog. I tuned it up the best I could without the injection pump. The pump was a big expense with unknown returns.

Mine was geared too wide. The 6.17's definitely helped you out there. I bet the more modern Holset helped out a bit too. The 617 likes to spin fast that's for sure!

Mike
I think the injection pump makes a huge power difference, the stock ones just don't move enough fuel. With the 6.17 diffs and 37" tires I ran ~3600rpm @ 70mph, and the stock speedometer was fairly accurate.

Out of curiosity, are you still running stock hardware on your engine? Just remapping to get more power?
 
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I think the injection pump makes a huge power difference, the stock ones just don't move enough fuel. With the 6.17 diffs and 37" tires I ran ~3600rpm @ 70mph, and the stock speedometer was fairly accurate.

Out of curiosity, are you still running stock hardware on your engine? Just remapping to get more power?
Beside a few basic changes mostly for maintenance and to get the little guy to hold up to larger loads for longer durations it's pretty original.

That's the beauty of the PD engines. They are built a lot beefier than the VE's we got in the US.

Mike
 
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So I have this cluster of wires above my pass side fender well and I've been trying to figure out what they all are:

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I've been having a tough time and I'm using the 1978 diagram:


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SO far here's what I've got:

1: White w black stripe- Ground leading to something?
2: Green w red stripe- Switched ground to the PS horn?
3: Green w Yellow stripe- Turn signal PS
4: Green white stripe - Horn fused power
5: Red green stripe- Low beam power
6: Red yellow stripe- High beam power
7: White w black stripe- Ground leading to something?
8: White green stripe- Alternator regulator (removed)
9: White w black stripe- Ground leading to something?
10: White w black stripe- Ground leading to something?
11: Blue yellow stripe Washer pump switched ground
12: Blue Washer pump fused power (wiper turn)
13: Engine fuse?
14: Battery power leading to ignition switch
15: Engine fuse?
16: Engine fuse?
17: Green- Running lights?
18: White- Originally ran to ammeter


IS this the washer fluid pump?
1618242355352.png


Some component from the old engine?

1618242411510.png


I am re-wiring the headlights from scratch with relays. I would like to re-use the turn signal/running light wiring and the washer pump wiring.

Is it OK to just apply fused power to the ammeter and the white/blue wire leading to the ignition switch?

Should I just ground all the white black striped wires?

I am trying to simplify all this stuff. there has been 3 engine transplants by 3 owners in this truck so its kind of tore up!

Any ideas?

Thank you,

Mike
 
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White with black stripe is always ground on Cruiser harnesses.
I run redundant grounds on all my trucks. I don't trust body ground on turns and park.
That black with yellow is hot with key and crank. used at the 78 ignitor on the pass fender.
That helps with a bunch.. I'd have to stare at the schematic to assist with the rest.
 
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White with black stripe is always ground on Cruiser harnesses.
I run redundant grounds on all my trucks. I don't trust body ground on turns and park.
That black with yellow is hot with key and crank. used at the 78 ignitor on the pass fender.
That helps with a bunch.. I'd have to stare at the schematic to assist with the rest.
I've run new wires to the Headlights including grounds.

Would you condone grounding all the white and black wires?

I don't have any of the black and yellow wires leading to anything on my setup. I think I will just bundle and wrap those up.

Thanks!

Mike
 
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double check the schematic but yes.. They all will goto ground, body, batt, chassis, etc. the Black with yellow is used by the fuel injection guys to power the pump on both crank and keyed hot. Save it for later use.
 
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I don't know if this helps, but my Jan 1972 actually uses the pervious year schematics. The schematics for a 1972 start with Sept 72's. Maybe something like that with yours?
 

Bripars40

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I had the knob made by Red Line Land Cruisers - Parts, Restoration, & Service - Toyota FJ40, FJ55, FJ60, FJ62, FJ80 & More - Red Line Land Cruisers and then drilled and tapped it for the 5mm pull switch from a headlight switch:
View attachment 2511838

Mike

quick question for you. I have a 79 FJ40 and I recently parted out a 1999 100 series with rear HVAC. My thought was to use the rear AC system in my 40 since it has a stand alone control board. Any tips on how I should go about integrating it into the center dash like you did?
 

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