Nice Job... 
Mighty short cruiser
- Thread starter Gib009
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #122
So after thinking about a front bar for ages i have decided to just draw something up that was actually feasable for me to make rather than the other bars that was pictured earlier.
What do you reckon to this one. Main purpose is to keep my approach angle but give as much protection to the radiator as possible. Possible addition of electric winch later on. It has 2 crossmembers but the third (between the chassis rails) will protect the lower part of the raditor while the top two protect the upper.
Front view
Side on (imagine it a bit beefier though)
Is it possible to shape it like this?
Its not that flash but i think its about the limit of what i can make with cutting tools and an arc
What do you reckon to this one. Main purpose is to keep my approach angle but give as much protection to the radiator as possible. Possible addition of electric winch later on. It has 2 crossmembers but the third (between the chassis rails) will protect the lower part of the raditor while the top two protect the upper.
Front view
Side on (imagine it a bit beefier though)
Is it possible to shape it like this?
Its not that flash but i think its about the limit of what i can make with cutting tools and an arc
Mmm... 
I prefer to build a "classic" Front Bumper (with winch box)
Good Luck!
I prefer to build a "classic" Front Bumper (with winch box)
Good Luck!
- Thread starter
- #127
Few more updates:
Brand new kenwood cd player, cant complain for $118 even has a little AUX plug for ipods and such. I took it to strathfield and they confirmed my old one was totaled. All along i thought it was the wiring but i just needed a new deck. That explains why it was never really working properly after two morons broke into my car about 6months ago, they must of hacked around the deck or something.
Also note the boost gauge is fitted neatly on the dash, stock boost was exactly 8psi. The vdo gauge is a great little unit, it goes really well with the rest of the instruments aswell.
This is where i tapped in with a t piece, if i remember correctly it is the hose leading to the boost compensator from the crossover part to the intake.
GFB boost controller now wound out to just under 10psi and it goes like a totaly different car now i cant wait to get it on the dunes. It is connected between the turbo and the waste gate actuator.
Oh and i also put a piece of black plastic in the back to hide all the tow hitch wiring, makes it just that little bit neater.
Brand new kenwood cd player, cant complain for $118 even has a little AUX plug for ipods and such. I took it to strathfield and they confirmed my old one was totaled. All along i thought it was the wiring but i just needed a new deck. That explains why it was never really working properly after two morons broke into my car about 6months ago, they must of hacked around the deck or something.
Also note the boost gauge is fitted neatly on the dash, stock boost was exactly 8psi. The vdo gauge is a great little unit, it goes really well with the rest of the instruments aswell.
This is where i tapped in with a t piece, if i remember correctly it is the hose leading to the boost compensator from the crossover part to the intake.
GFB boost controller now wound out to just under 10psi and it goes like a totaly different car now i cant wait to get it on the dunes. It is connected between the turbo and the waste gate actuator.
Oh and i also put a piece of black plastic in the back to hide all the tow hitch wiring, makes it just that little bit neater.
- Thread starter
- #128
I measured for new shocks today. Didnt have a flex ramp so i used that trick where you use car ramps at diagonal ends and drop the hub to the ground. I was surprised to see that my current shocks are only restricting my flex only 1inch which sucks because i thought it would be way more! Im begginning to think they are old aftermarket items because the housing (under the black spray on protective stuff) is bright blue. But anyway i desperatley need new shocks so im just shopping around im either thinking bilstein, bluemax, raw or rancho5000's (cant afford the 9000's) I am attracted to the raws because they have a 3 way adjustability by twisting the housing and are canadian made but i have used bilstein before and they are a great shock.
I need a front shock that has a compressed length of 400mm and a extended length of 625mm but i have dug up measurements of a guy who did a RUF (60rears up front) and needs a max length of 660mm so i might as well get some shocks that can take this length if i decide to do the RUF in the future. And the rears are alot smaller so i dont think ill have a problem finding them (440mm compressed, 565mm extended)
I also have to extend my bumpstops 30mm all round does anyone know how i should go about this.
I need a front shock that has a compressed length of 400mm and a extended length of 625mm but i have dug up measurements of a guy who did a RUF (60rears up front) and needs a max length of 660mm so i might as well get some shocks that can take this length if i decide to do the RUF in the future. And the rears are alot smaller so i dont think ill have a problem finding them (440mm compressed, 565mm extended)
I also have to extend my bumpstops 30mm all round does anyone know how i should go about this.
- Thread starter
- #129
Heres the progress on the tube bar
Winch cradle made out of 150mmx90mm steel lintle (7mm thick) and 8mm steel plate as support, connected to the chassis by 8 bolts. Get to keep recovery hooks on top which double as a mounting point.
If i lower the body lift maybe 1inch i can get away with welding the tube straight to the top of the winch cradle of which i believe would be stronger. The tube would sit just underneath the guards and the checkplate on top would sit flush with the guards
But if i leave the body lift in i would have to make vertical supports to make it sit flush with the guards
Obviously there will be more supports but its too hard to draw on sketchup
Let me know what you guys think
Winch cradle made out of 150mmx90mm steel lintle (7mm thick) and 8mm steel plate as support, connected to the chassis by 8 bolts. Get to keep recovery hooks on top which double as a mounting point.
If i lower the body lift maybe 1inch i can get away with welding the tube straight to the top of the winch cradle of which i believe would be stronger. The tube would sit just underneath the guards and the checkplate on top would sit flush with the guards
But if i leave the body lift in i would have to make vertical supports to make it sit flush with the guards
Obviously there will be more supports but its too hard to draw on sketchup
Let me know what you guys think
- Thread starter
- #130
Heres a few progress pics...
Cardboard Template for the winch plate
Top bar bent up
Approx placement
The ends will be bent around the fenders slightly so i can join scrub bars up to it in the future. Still not sure how im mounting it to the winch plate though. Any ideas welcome.
Cardboard Template for the winch plate
Top bar bent up
Approx placement
The ends will be bent around the fenders slightly so i can join scrub bars up to it in the future. Still not sure how im mounting it to the winch plate though. Any ideas welcome.
- Thread starter
- #131
But that was yesterday... today me and blair (cheers mate) got stuck into it and got my shocks in and made a good start extending my bumpstops.
Here are my brand spankers shiny new bilstein 5125's. As usual great price and great service from tash and chris from locktup. I had to drill out the bushes for them to fit and use a pin to eye convertor in the front shocks. But they ride great and controls swaying as much as a sway bar does so im very happy And plus they are a 10inch travel shock so they have enough travel left in them for a RUF in the front and wacky shackles in the back just in case.
Here is how im extending my bumpstops, just need welding and painting
And i marked out where i am going to cut my guards...
Here are my brand spankers shiny new bilstein 5125's. As usual great price and great service from tash and chris from locktup. I had to drill out the bushes for them to fit and use a pin to eye convertor in the front shocks. But they ride great and controls swaying as much as a sway bar does so im very happy
And plus they are a 10inch travel shock so they have enough travel left in them for a RUF in the front and wacky shackles in the back just in case.
Here is how im extending my bumpstops, just need welding and painting
And i marked out where i am going to cut my guards...
And i marked out where i am going to cut my guards...
Cut the guards??? :whoops:
I prefer don´t cut the body, maybe is better change the suspension "SOA"
Waiting the "Gib" Winch-Bumper
- Thread starter
- #133
Hah lulo, somone once told me you dont raise the car to fit the tyres you just move the metal that gets in the way
Doing it this way i have only raised the drivetrain 2inchs from tyres and the body 2inchs so all up only 4inchs which makes it quite stable on the tracks. With a SOA i would probably be in the region of 10inchs of lift which i think would not end well unless i did some serious modification to the track and the wheelbase. The tyres pretty much fit right now but just scrubs at a funny angle when flexing so i just need to nick the guard off. Dont worry im rolling the edges over trying to keep it as factory as possible.
Oh and bumper is almost complete. Just going to fetch some more welding sticks hopefully its done by this weekend.
Doing it this way i have only raised the drivetrain 2inchs from tyres and the body 2inchs so all up only 4inchs which makes it quite stable on the tracks. With a SOA i would probably be in the region of 10inchs of lift which i think would not end well unless i did some serious modification to the track and the wheelbase. The tyres pretty much fit right now but just scrubs at a funny angle when flexing so i just need to nick the guard off. Dont worry im rolling the edges over trying to keep it as factory as possible.Oh and bumper is almost complete. Just going to fetch some more welding sticks hopefully its done by this weekend.
crushers
post ho
problem with any exhaust that goes straight out the back is the potential to scoop mud and cause too much back pressure.
out the side works well.
if you do very little deep mud or snow then it will be fine.
nice build M8
out the side works well.
if you do very little deep mud or snow then it will be fine.
nice build M8
Photos...
And the shiny 3inch tip... still not keen on it
crushers
post ho
simplicity is usually the best. i like that one.
nice job.
- Thread starter
- #140
Anyway, i managed to get my bumpstops done today and a bit of welding practice for the bumper
Rear ones were piece of cake and done pretty quickly
Front ones were a bit of a pain (they sit on a curved part of the chassis) but by this time i managed to lay a half decent weld
And all finished, rears extended 30mm, front extended 40mm which is the size of the pin to eye convertor on the shocks.
I got them in tonight and im noticing a few things that might need attention
The front drivers side is pretty sagged so theres not much space between the axle and the bump stop. Ill have to look into beefing up the front end springs a bit, and also the shocks looks pretty compressed while sitting flat. If my measurements are correct they should be fine but im thinking of getting shock hoops from locktup just to be sure they dont bottom out (i could then move them up, and forward a few inches to suit the planned diff relocation too)
And while everything is apart i might try the RUF since i got shocks long enough for it now.
Rear ones were piece of cake and done pretty quickly
Front ones were a bit of a pain (they sit on a curved part of the chassis) but by this time i managed to lay a half decent weld
And all finished, rears extended 30mm, front extended 40mm which is the size of the pin to eye convertor on the shocks.
I got them in tonight and im noticing a few things that might need attention
The front drivers side is pretty sagged so theres not much space between the axle and the bump stop. Ill have to look into beefing up the front end springs a bit, and also the shocks looks pretty compressed while sitting flat. If my measurements are correct they should be fine but im thinking of getting shock hoops from locktup just to be sure they dont bottom out (i could then move them up, and forward a few inches to suit the planned diff relocation too)
And while everything is apart i might try the RUF since i got shocks long enough for it now.
