Mighty short cruiser
- Thread starter Gib009
- Start date
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I not like the subject as a bumper 
, I like to attach more directly to the chassis 
It is best to place the hooks below or above the bumper, never between the chassis and bumper
Think safety
, I like to attach more directly to the chassis It is best to place the hooks below or above the bumper, never between the chassis and bumper
Think safety
crushers
post ho
take your hooks and mount them to the side of the frame horns.
mount the bumper tight against the frame horns, no spacers (hooks)
is there a winch going on?
mount the bumper tight against the frame horns, no spacers (hooks)
is there a winch going on?
- Thread starter
- #144
Why is it bad to have the hooks inbetween the winch mount and the chassis?
As far as i am concerned a heavier tug would be put upon the hooks (snatching) where as a winch would be a progressive pull so i wanted to have the hooks directly on the chassis rails. The winch plate is only resting on a slightly smaller surface area than it would of on the chassis as the hooks base is almost the size of the available chassis rails. And having the winch plate spaced up lets me run it over the pipes on the front crossmember (some sort of cooler? not sure what they are) and much closer into the body rather than it sticking out, which will also aid in its strength. And it lets me weld the main tube straight to the top of the plate rather than having vertical tube to support it. And you have to remember the bolts are going right through the chassis with crush tubes in the middle. Im certain something else will fail before this thing breaks off!
As far as i am concerned a heavier tug would be put upon the hooks (snatching) where as a winch would be a progressive pull so i wanted to have the hooks directly on the chassis rails. The winch plate is only resting on a slightly smaller surface area than it would of on the chassis as the hooks base is almost the size of the available chassis rails. And having the winch plate spaced up lets me run it over the pipes on the front crossmember (some sort of cooler? not sure what they are) and much closer into the body rather than it sticking out, which will also aid in its strength. And it lets me weld the main tube straight to the top of the plate rather than having vertical tube to support it. And you have to remember the bolts are going right through the chassis with crush tubes in the middle. Im certain something else will fail before this thing breaks off!
crushers
post ho
because a winch can give up to 32,000 lbs of pull... that is shear strength. (double snatch blocks on a 8274)
you have 2 points of shear with the hooks inbetween plus the leverage point is 1 1/4" away from the frame instead of 0" away from the frame. (well actually, you have the bottom of the hook, top of the hook, top of the winch plate shear points)
do what you wish, it was just a suggestion.
you have 2 points of shear with the hooks inbetween plus the leverage point is 1 1/4" away from the frame instead of 0" away from the frame. (well actually, you have the bottom of the hook, top of the hook, top of the winch plate shear points)
do what you wish, it was just a suggestion.
hey gib, i read a while back in this thread that you thought the 35's went much better off road.. i actually had the exact same wrangler 35's a few years ago on my 40series and it was unstoppable off road and there was only 3mm or tread left and they were still awesome. i downgraded to 33 baja claws (new) with huge lugs and i cant seem to go as hard as i used to. it must be the extra clearance they give the diff centre in ruts etc..
i have a 40 series short wheel base and have done a ute cab conversion from a hj45 ute. custom mini tray and winch bar etc. mostly fiberglass pannels like bonnet and guards so easy to repair. i will try and post up some photos of my bar just for an idea. mines just a c section with two posts welded on from an arb bar. its bloody fantastic. just doesnt protect the car as much as i would have hoped but it sure does look good for something i spent 50 bucks on.
loving the pics, keep them coming.
im in brisbane qld btw so if you ever want to do a road trip swing us an email mate. we'l teach you how to drink.
James
i have a 40 series short wheel base and have done a ute cab conversion from a hj45 ute. custom mini tray and winch bar etc. mostly fiberglass pannels like bonnet and guards so easy to repair. i will try and post up some photos of my bar just for an idea. mines just a c section with two posts welded on from an arb bar. its bloody fantastic. just doesnt protect the car as much as i would have hoped but it sure does look good for something i spent 50 bucks on.
loving the pics, keep them coming.
im in brisbane qld btw so if you ever want to do a road trip swing us an email mate. we'l teach you how to drink.
James
- Thread starter
- #148
hey mate,
Funny you say that i actually swapped tyres with a mate with 33inch claws (just for a few hours) and i absolutley hated them! They were crap on the road, they sounded like a jet engine, they rumbled to a stop as if you were driving on.. well claws, and they dug everywhere in the sand. And i have heard they arent to crash hot on rocks and side slopes. Which means they are only good for mud. I think you should give the MTRS another go next set of tyres
I think its not just the extra clearance, its the the physical size of them to overcome objects which helps the most, well thats what i think anyway.
Your 40 sounds awesome. Post some pics! And your bar sounds good how did you score an arb bar for 50bucks? Im having trouble finding the time to finish my bar, im doing my masters of architecture and the work load has just doubled from doing my bachelors. I havnt even had the chance to drive it for weeks!
Hah a road trip sounds good right about now, ill keep that in mind!
Funny you say that i actually swapped tyres with a mate with 33inch claws (just for a few hours) and i absolutley hated them! They were crap on the road, they sounded like a jet engine, they rumbled to a stop as if you were driving on.. well claws, and they dug everywhere in the sand. And i have heard they arent to crash hot on rocks and side slopes. Which means they are only good for mud. I think you should give the MTRS another go next set of tyres
I think its not just the extra clearance, its the the physical size of them to overcome objects which helps the most, well thats what i think anyway.
Your 40 sounds awesome. Post some pics! And your bar sounds good how did you score an arb bar for 50bucks? Im having trouble finding the time to finish my bar, im doing my masters of architecture and the work load has just doubled from doing my bachelors. I havnt even had the chance to drive it for weeks!
Hah a road trip sounds good right about now, ill keep that in mind!
hello, nice ride, but you need to upgrade some very important things..
1. stop raising the body!! lower it again and cut -much- more of the body to fit the tires. you gain lower Center of gravity. Then buy fiberglass mud guards.
2. throw out the blade-suspension for linked suspension and springs. you will have hell of a lot better and softer suspension.
3. -MUCH- wider rims for the tires!! for a 38" Gumbo Monster Mudder I would go for 12" to 14" wide. you gain loads of extra float on mud and sand, specially if you deflate the air pressure in such circumstances, down to 5-7 psi. (as I do in snow at home, sometimes to 1.5 psi).
here are some links of my ride as I am modding it for 38" tires, longer wheel base and 60 cruiser axles and motor. (this one from a glacier
and then some from others:
http://www.f4x4.is/new/files/photoalbums/129/14433.jpg
forrunner with real mud guards... 44" tires:
1. stop raising the body!! lower it again and cut -much- more of the body to fit the tires. you gain lower Center of gravity. Then buy fiberglass mud guards.
2. throw out the blade-suspension for linked suspension and springs. you will have hell of a lot better and softer suspension.
3. -MUCH- wider rims for the tires!! for a 38" Gumbo Monster Mudder I would go for 12" to 14" wide. you gain loads of extra float on mud and sand, specially if you deflate the air pressure in such circumstances, down to 5-7 psi. (as I do in snow at home, sometimes to 1.5 psi).
here are some links of my ride as I am modding it for 38" tires, longer wheel base and 60 cruiser axles and motor. (this one from a glacier
and then some from others:
http://www.f4x4.is/new/files/photoalbums/129/14433.jpg
forrunner with real mud guards... 44" tires:
I totally agree with the "no lift" people. If you want bigger tires, cut the sheet metal. And then cut some more. 
It is not even hard to fit 37" to 70-series. Stableness (is that a word?) is something else than in SOA trucks and clearance is still the same under the axles. I have 37´s and no lift on my 73. Just cutting and flipped front springs.
It is not even hard to fit 37" to 70-series. Stableness (is that a word?) is something else than in SOA trucks and clearance is still the same under the axles. I have 37´s and no lift on my 73. Just cutting and flipped front springs.
I totally agree with the "no lift" people. If you want bigger tires, cut the sheet metal. And then cut some more.
It is not even hard to fit 37" to 70-series. Stableness (is that a word?) is something else than in SOA trucks and clearance is still the same under the axles. I have 37´s and no lift on my 73. Just cutting and flipped front springs.
That works ok in theory, but not always that great in practice, well in my case anyway. If you have a car that flexes better than a brick you will have scrubbing issues. With stock guards and 31'' stock tyres on stock rims I had rubbing issues, on the top of the front guards. I've chopped and chopped, not much left and now my 33''s rub abit and my 35''s abit harder on compression. In my situation a 2'' body lift would JUST clear my 2'' chopped guards, thats 4'' of guard lift to clear a 35''. No chance of fitting 37'' with flexy suspension and no body lift.
I limited compression 3 cm (a bit over one inch), flipped front springs and 37" boggers don´t rub. 16" wheels. It is not a RTI champion, but i like stable more than monster flex. Lockers are there to help to keep the traction.
- Thread starter
- #157
hello, nice ride, but you need to upgrade some very important things..
1. stop raising the body!! lower it again and cut -much- more of the body to fit the tires. you gain lower Center of gravity. Then buy fiberglass mud guards.
2. throw out the blade-suspension for linked suspension and springs. you will have hell of a lot better and softer suspension.
3. -MUCH- wider rims for the tires!! for a 38" Gumbo Monster Mudder I would go for 12" to 14" wide. you gain loads of extra float on mud and sand, specially if you deflate the air pressure in such circumstances, down to 5-7 psi. (as I do in snow at home, sometimes to 1.5 psi).
here are some links of my ride as I am modding it for 38" tires, longer wheel base and 60 cruiser axles and motor. (this one from a glacier
and then some from others:
http://www.f4x4.is/new/files/photoalbums/129/14433.jpg
forrunner with real mud guards... 44" tires:
Hi mate, thanks for the tips but the majority of those quoted seem impractical for what i intend to use the cruiser for.
1) The name of the game from the beginning was to try fit big tyres with no lift, as you have probably read i have tried but i dont really have the skills to chop too much out of the body neatly, and i want to keep it as neat as possible because my cruiser is a really nice example with no rust, low km and a straight and clean body. So i went with a body lift to keep as much of the heavy bits at the bottom, and it feels no less stable than before, in real life yes it would have raised the COG but not as much as a spring over or even a suspension lift. I think i sit about the same height as a 2inch suspension lift and 33's (my friend has one).
2) I would love to! But its early days and i dont mind playing around with leaf springs for the time being. Simple and robust and if set up right can flex nicely
3) The only reason i have kept the 8inch rims is because they act as beadlocks at lower pressures. The smaller rim and wider tyre pushes against each other. I can have my tyres down to 10psi and drive how i like no worries, and with still room to go lower if need be. I have heard people with wider rims have problems with their tyre coming off the rim quite easily. I will end up increasiing the track im just not sure which direction to go... maybe a 60 rear diff and IFS hubs up front, or just get my current rims flipped for more offset.
Yep thats true, i have stock springs from 20years ago and they flex quite well. Especially if i do a RUF i want as much space as possible.
I have done this also, but i dont think i really needed to do it apart from the shocks being too long at the front. I will be remounting the shock higher and taking the extended bumpstops out they are really annoying over fast bumps in the dunes.
- Thread starter
- #160
Thanks mate... what rod holders?
Yeah mate thats what im talking about
