Mid install help (1 Viewer)

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Your best bet on poly bushings is to use silicone grease designed for that purpose. Daystar sells theirs in 3 oz cartridges for mini grease guns. Moly will eventually breakdown the poly bushings. Be aware that this stuff is STICKY. see The Best Grease for Polyurethane Bushings

Also on the front spring, rear hanger and the rear spring front hanger, I always have to use my monster adjustable wrench to slightly bend out the hangers a bit to get the spring with bushings cleared for the install, then the torqueing process pulls them back to vertical. Without bending the sides of the hangers, it's crazy hard to get the springs in place. Depending on how strong I feel on that day, I usually employ a jack to help push the spring up into place, being careful of the bushings.

Jdc1, check what looks like the OME shackles you have on the rear spring, rear hanger. The point sticking out at the top of the side plate of the shackle is for anti-inversion. If that is the case, then that is the shackle that mounts to the front hanger of the front springs. Verify with the vendor you purchased them from.
 
Back in the 1970's (possibly before newer lubricants were developed for polyurethane) it was getting impossible to find the old sticky axle bearing grease (as in covered wagons on the frontier, darn near bees wax), but if you could get it the stuff would stay where you put it, did not wash out like many modern lubricants do.
 
I just use wheel bearing grease on my red bushings. I don't have greasable pins, I just usually remove the shackle & pins and grease them.
 
Back in the 1970's (possibly before newer lubricants were developed for polyurethane) it was getting impossible to find the old sticky axle bearing grease (as in covered wagons on the frontier, darn near bees wax), but if you could get it the stuff would stay where you put it, did not wash out like many modern lubricants do.


Grease for wheel axles. It is now more than twenty years since we employed the following composition, which was revealed to us as a great secret, and for which money has been usually demanded: ‘Thicken half a pint of melted grease with black lead in powder, having previously thrown in and melted a lump of bees-wax of the size of a small hickory nut. Apply it to the hubs and axles before it hardens. By using this composition we have on various occasions driven our carriages two or three hundred miles without once greasing it after we started; and subsequent examinations have satisfied us that no attention of the kind, is necessary on journeys. We add a few precautions. In warm weather, we use tallow in preference to soft grease. — Thomas Emmerson, The Tennessee Farmer (Jonesborough, Tennessee: The Washington Republic Office, 1836), 267.
 
Your best bet on poly bushings is to use silicone grease designed for that purpose. Daystar sells theirs in 3 oz cartridges for mini grease guns. Moly will eventually breakdown the poly bushings. Be aware that this stuff is STICKY. see The Best Grease for Polyurethane Bushings

Also on the front spring, rear hanger and the rear spring front hanger, I always have to use my monster adjustable wrench to slightly bend out the hangers a bit to get the spring with bushings cleared for the install, then the torqueing process pulls them back to vertical. Without bending the sides of the hangers, it's crazy hard to get the springs in place. Depending on how strong I feel on that day, I usually employ a jack to help push the spring up into place, being careful of the bushings.

Jdc1, check what looks like the OME shackles you have on the rear spring, rear hanger. The point sticking out at the top of the side plate of the shackle is for anti-inversion. If that is the case, then that is the shackle that mounts to the front hanger of the front springs. Verify with the vendor you purchased them from.
Since you mention it are these the correct orientat
Your best bet on poly bushings is to use silicone grease designed for that purpose. Daystar sells theirs in 3 oz cartridges for mini grease guns. Moly will eventually breakdown the poly bushings. Be aware that this stuff is STICKY. see The Best Grease for Polyurethane Bushings

Also on the front spring, rear hanger and the rear spring front hanger, I always have to use my monster adjustable wrench to slightly bend out the hangers a bit to get the spring with bushings cleared for the install, then the torqueing process pulls them back to vertical. Without bending the sides of the hangers, it's crazy hard to get the springs in place. Depending on how strong I feel on that day, I usually employ a jack to help push the spring up into place, being careful of the bushings.

Jdc1, check what looks like the OME shackles you have on the rear spring, rear hanger. The point sticking out at the top of the side plate of the shackle is for anti-inversion. If that is the case, then that is the shackle that mounts to the front hanger of the front springs. Verify with the vendor you purchased them from.
That’s what I’m talking about Mark.
i have a jar of Lucas x-tra heavy duty grease for wheel bearings...is that acceptable?

just left 4WP where I bought the lift and they said any grease is fine...guessing they aren’t as informed as you all!
Edit:
Talked to pro comp and initially the The guy said any grease is fine until I question him, he put me on hold, came back and said white lithium grease! LOL
 
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I like the ideal of ‘tallow’....then it’s edible....although the lead....probably make you crazy enough to own a FJ40...(lol)
 
lmajor32 your shackles look fine and the lucas x-tra heavy duty grease will be fine for the wheel bearings. Thats what i used.
 
So lesson learned on buying non OEM parts. The shackle pin came out of the bracket and just spins...is it ok to use as is? I’m able to tighten it down enough I think.

side note I asked about returning or exchanging for another part and cruiser Corp said no bc it’s outside of 30 days...seems like this is defective for it to just come out and spin in the bracket...
398E623C-E9CF-407A-8503-B6FBD752CF7A.jpeg
 
So lesson learned on buying non OEM parts. The shackle pin came out of the bracket and just spins...is it ok to use as is? I’m able to tighten it down enough I think.

side note I asked about returning or exchanging for another part and cruiser Corp said no bc it’s outside of 30 days...seems like this is defective for it to just come out and spin in the bracket...
View attachment 2522569

The pins are not truely a press fit. They are only knurled (fluted) so they don’t spin when you tighten the nuts at the other end.
 
Hoping this is the last question... I got four new greasable pins (not OEM 🙄) and I got the rears on and bolted to the frame fairly easy (had to widen one of the holes bc it didn’t line up) but the holes on the front don’t line up at all on either side. I was going to dremel them out as well to get the two bolts in since they are way off. Those two bolts are really only there to keep the pin from spinning correct? The large bolt on the inside of the frame does all the work once it’s all together correct?
 
Hoping this is the last question... I got four new greasable pins (not OEM 🙄) and I got the rears on and bolted to the frame fairly easy (had to widen one of the holes bc it didn’t line up) but the holes on the front don’t line up at all on either side. I was going to dremel them out as well to get the two bolts in since they are way off. Those two bolts are really only there to keep the pin from spinning correct? The large bolt on the inside of the frame does all the work once it’s all together correct?

Your question is confusing, so you bought new greasable shackle pins???? And you had to dremel out the bushings???

You shouldn’t have to dremel anything...if they don’t fit through the bushings....are the pins larger diameter???

Boil them (bushings) up in a pot of water to expand them...measure the pins and the mounting holes, call the one of the dozens of busing companies that advertise on google and get something that fits.

The bushings should be tight...they are sometime hard to install....but they shouldn’t need to be modified.
 
The pins are not truely a press fit. They are only knurled (fluted) so they don’t spin when you tighten the nuts at the other end.
The pins are not truely a press fit. They are only knurled (fluted) so they don’t spin when you tighten the nuts at the other end.
Your question is confusing, so you bought new greasable shackle pins???? And you had to dremel out the bushings???

You shouldn’t have to dremel anything...if they don’t fit through the bushings....are the pins larger diameter???

Boil them (bushings) up in a pot of water to expand them...measure the pins and the mounting holes, call the one of the dozens of busing companies that advertise on google and get something that fits.

The bushings should be tight...they are sometime hard to install....but they shouldn’t need to be modified.
Your question is confusing, so you bought new greasable shackle pins???? And you had to dremel out the bushings???

You shouldn’t have to dremel anything...if they don’t fit through the bushings....are the pins larger diameter???

Boil them (bushings) up in a pot of water to expand them...measure the pins and the mounting holes, call the one of the dozens of busing companies that advertise on google and get something that fits.

The bushings should be tight...they are sometime hard to install....but they shouldn’t need to be modified.
Sorry, I wasnt talking about the bushing this last time, I’m taking about the bolts that go in these holes that secure the pin to the frame. The holes don’t line up.
44B6BA16-B1C4-4D47-9932-4FCA2757EDED.jpeg
 
Sorry, I wasnt talking about the bushing this last time, I’m taking about the bolts that go in these holes that secure the pin to the frame. The holes don’t line up.
View attachment 2522809

Hahahaha....I thought you were talking about the bushings....they as long as small ‘keeper’ screws tighten up, you’ll be OK.

I used socket head screws to attach mine....the picture is of the powder coat frame after 10,000 miles and a couple of years of exposure to the elements.

38B20753-4155-4249-8958-448923FE1DB6.jpeg
 

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