Metal Tech cage?

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Joined
Jul 23, 2008
Threads
8
Messages
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Location
Manvel, TX
I just recieved my cage today and was looking at the pipes and it looks like I have to knotch them. Am I correct?
It's a full cage with seat cradle and all the extra's.
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Have you contacted Metal Tech?

Not yet, I will be doing it tomorrow, just wanted to make sure.

edit:
Kit includes:

2 - Front Pillars (bent to match the front windshield and dash)

2 - Front Lower Mounting Plates

1 - Front Upper Cross Bar (one end each notched for quick fit)

1 – Main “B” Pillar "U" Bar

1- Rear “C” Pillar (bent inward to clear soft top bows and off road obstacles.)

2 - Rear Upper Over Head Bar (One end notched for quick fit)

2 – Rear Full Length laser cut mounting plates

2 - Rear Braces for Rear Pillars to "U" Bar

2 – A to B front pillar braces

$554.95 plus Shipping*

What the hell! one end knotched for quick fit? What about the other side?
 
No, Metal Tech cages are notched on one end only. They say that they do this because no two FJ40's are the same. Ones that have been wheeled hard can be different from side to side. I installed a MT "Jackson" cage in mine back in Feb. and it took us most of the day with the notcher that MT uses on a daily basis (we ordered one and did 4 cages with it). Your cage will take at least 2 days unless you have an experienced welder working on it. Great cage once you are done with it. What sux is that you have to notch, fit, tack weld it, take it out, weld it fully, paint it and then put it back in! I almost wish I had bought the pre-built one. Good luck!

Later,
 
The welding isn't a problem, its the knotching. How much did the knotcher cost?
 
My advice= borrow or buy a GOOD notcher. Not one of those Chinese knock-off copies of the Ol Joint Jigger.

If you can swing the dough- go for the Notch Master from JD2. I've used the piss out of mine and it shows none of the slop lesser ones will show. If you're part of a club, split the cost up several ways. It really should be a one-time purchase.

And, think of it a different way. Say Mark & LT notch everything for you, but your rig is slightly different than most everyone elses... How pissed would you be to find that you need to re-notch everything. This way you get to put them EXACTLY where they belong for your Cruiser.

Luke

www.jd2.com/notchmaster.htm

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QnubbAFVObQ
 
but a notcher is so smooth when you hook the tubes up.


either will work.

oh yeah and youll be niotching about 200 times on your cage. get prepared
 
I am in the same boat and have been reading up on notching tube. Like many, I can't spend the coin on a great notcher...but have many other tools around the shop.

Here is a link to some pipe notching patterns/template products.....Some of them might be useful....especially since no one seems to stock 2 inch OD toilet paper rolls.

R.E. Lee Co. - Welding and Pipefitting Products
 
I agree that it is better to have only one side pre-notched. Since 40's can get tweaked from wheelin' hard imagine if you ordered a fully notched cage and one spreader from the A-B pillar was half an inch too long and one was half an inch too short - you basically have a couple of useless tubes.
 
This is the notcher I use. They are between $40-55 at Harbor freight. I don't even put it in the drill press, just use a 1/2" drill. A little easier to handle big sticks of tube that way. If you do buy this one, spray it down with brake cleaner first to get the packing oil off of it. Then lube it and use it...


notcher.gif
notcher.gif
 
I agree that it is better to have only one side pre-notched. Since 40's can get tweaked from wheelin' hard imagine if you ordered a fully notched cage and one spreader from the A-B pillar was half an inch too long and one was half an inch too short - you basically have a couple of useless tubes.

Ratchet straps!
 
take your time doing all that fitting , nothing worse than having to fill a large gap and having it look like s*** , best tueb notcher ever made bridgport mill, but then im spoiled:flipoff2:
 
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"I just recieved my cage today and was looking at the pipes and it looks like I have to knotch them. Am I correct?
It's a full cage with seat cradle and all the extra's."


i thought they were pre-notched? well i guess i won't be ordering one when i finally get around to getting a cage


Folks, the guys at MT are some great people and their support of our compulsion is almost legendary - I think you should give them a break. Their website is clear in stating that they only notch one end. Can't deal with that? - Order a prebuilt cage! It takes very little skill and only a little patience to make the few notches you need with either a chop saw or a grinder. If you are not up to the challenge you probably should not be assembling your cage anyway.

I hope this is not coming off as too harsh - not my intent at all. What you want to end up with is a cage that is properly designed, properly fitted to your rig, properly welded and properly mounted. MT has one of the best cage kits going in my opinion - take a deap breath and get busy fitting. You will be proud of your accomplishment when you are done!:cheers:
 
If a jig built pre fab cage won't fit then neither will a hard top. I build about forty cages a year from a jig and don't run into any problems except when people weld in new floor pans and fender wells. I did have a truck come through with the drivers floor pan welded in about a half inch high. The person who did the repair never removed the rusted out one, he just welded a new one over the top.



I agree that it is better to have only one side pre-notched. Since 40's can get tweaked from wheelin' hard imagine if you ordered a fully notched cage and one spreader from the A-B pillar was half an inch too long and one was half an inch too short - you basically have a couple of useless tubes.
 

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