Builds Meet "Rusty" - 1978 USA - FJ40

[DirtDauberGarage]

Issue number two: I plugged in the new voltage regulator started the 40. It ran great and no fuse blown but the voltage was way too high (around 15.5 volts). I checked the voltage in two ways. First with a voltage meter at the battery and with a voltage meter plugged into the cigarette lighter. This allowed me to monitor the voltage while I was driving. This also allowed me see how turning things off and on accessory like the lights and fan would affect the voltage.

Step five: I swapped out the second voltage regulator to see if it would do the same thing and it did the exact same thing. So, I tried them both in my blue 1977 fj40 and both work great. Voltage was between 12.5 and 13.5. This was confusing.

Step six: I put one of the new regulators back in the red 78 FJ40 and had the same 15.5 volts. I couldn’t figure out what they both worked great in the 77 but not in the 78.

The Solution: the Toyota Factory Service Manual explains how to adjust the voltage regulator, so I took the cover off and it took several times to adjust it back and forth, but I finally got it to a consistent 12.5-13.5 volts regardless of what RPMs the motor is or what accessory is on or off.

 

[DirtDauberGarage]

Here is one of the best threads on MUD to help with voltage regulators.

Voltage Regulator (ext.) / How it works

A lot of you don't like electric stuff and especially not complicated things like an external Voltage Regulator. So maybe it's time to explain how this black box with 3 or 6 wires works. It's really pretty simple. A VR (Voltage Regulator) regulates the charging process of the alternator. Our...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[DirtDauberGarage]

After driving it around all day it seems to sit around 12.5 so I am going to adjust it again and hopefully get closer to 13.5 average.

 

[DirtDauberGarage]

I tweeked it a little more the other day and it seems to be settled in around 13.5-14.8 which seems perfect.

 

[DirtDauberGarage]

I had a very productive weekend! It feels good when I actually fix something and it is better than when I started (Haha).

Accomplished several things:

- Fixed a short in the wiring that kept causing my dash lights and running lights fuse to blow.

- Worked a little on cleaning up the underside to get ready to seal the frame.

- I changed the spark plugs in a Honda CRV, Toyota RAV 4, reconditioned headlights on those two vehicles.

- Sealed a window on my dad’s camper on his Tacoma.


See below for details on the FJ40

 

[DirtDauberGarage]

Here were the symptoms

- Dash lights and running lights went out, checked the fuse that says “taillights”. It is the first fuse at the very top of the fuse panel. It was blown.

1. I put in a new 15 amp fuse and it blew after about 5 mins

2. I knew that blown bulbs could be the problem so I started by unplugging the rear tail lights, put in a new fuse, and it blew in about 15 seconds and the fuse was really hot.

3. I remembered that “taillights” also means running lights so I opened up the front running lights and sure enough there were a couple of blown bulbs, so I thought that was the issue. I pulled the bad bulbs, put in a new fuse and it blew right away and was hot like before.

4. This had me perplexed so I decided to unplug the rear wiring harness to see if the problem was in the back or the front. This did the job! I unplugged rear harness (the big one on the firewall passanger side, replaced the fuse and the fuse did NOT blow. So now I knew the problem was somewhere in the back of the wiring harness.

5. I crawled under the 40 and checked the plugs for the rear lights, looked for a lose wire, or bad ground and could not find anything.

6. That is when I realize I forgot the running light on the rear quarter panels. I pulled the driver side marker light and found the culprit. It was rusty and corroded and causing the bulb to short out. I cleaned it up with some sandpaper and steel wool, plugged everything in and it all works great.

 

[DirtDauberGarage]

While I was under the 40 looking at the wiring I noticed the rear of the frame has a lot of surface rust and decided to go ahead and start sealing up the frame... starting in the rear.

It can be an overwhelming task, so I plan to do short projects and knock it out a little at a time. I spent about an hour cleaning the rear cross supports. I plan to do the section from the spring shackle hangers back first and then move forward. This is a pretty small section and is a good place to start.

The plan is…

1. Clean really good with a degreaser, water, and scotch brite pad

2. Wire brush and wire wheel every place I can reach.

3. Scrub with a scotch brite pad

4. Sand with sand paper where I can reach.

5. Clean again really good with a degreaser, water, and scotch brite pad

6. Seal with a rust converter (haven’t decided which one yet) probably POR15 or KBS

7. Paint (probably rattle can but maybe something stronger)

8. Once I am totally done I will probably soak every crack and crevice with fluid film spray

After I finish one section, I will move on to the next section doing the frame only. The bottom of the tub looks really good, so I will worry about that after I finish the frame. Oh, yeah... be sure to wear old clothes and some good safty glasses.

Here are some before and after pics of the cleaning process.

 

[DirtDauberGarage]

Here are some more pics. I'll post more as I go...

 

[airon23]

Here are some more pics. I'll post more as I go...

View attachment 3732739

You gotta get you some of these clips. They're pretty cheap and work great for clamping down those wire looms with just some pressure from sliding them onto the frame. I ordered some extra back when I got them just for future applications because you never know where you're going to run some more wires.

 

[DirtDauberGarage]

Spent the weekend camping and wheeling with our YOTA.Atlanta club in North GA. Took the back roads home and saw some cool stuff!

GA- YOTA

Peachtree Corners area, Atlanta

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[DirtDauberGarage]

A few more...

 

[DirtDauberGarage]

More...

 

[DirtDauberGarage]

Before and after

 

[DirtDauberGarage]

I need to take the top off and do some more serious work on it, but this is a temporary fix for now to keep the wind and water out . I used some large head rivets to help with the fragile fiberglass top.

Eventually, I take the top off, straighten it up a little more, sand it down, clean it up, reseal it, and paint it.

 

[DirtDauberGarage]

I added a cup holder. Got tired of spilling coffee

Bought it off Amazon and built a little bracket.

https://www.amazon.com/Tuffy-034-01-Drink-Holder/dp/B000GVOWK2/ref=sr_1_1_pp?crid=2788FFSDZIZEB&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.6GHrcJpsVq5LA6ujr9SZGLoWW6Vb4QY7R72NlpOlcR7w5kqOYGF7upvRzEEUr866nzEcTQtT3YGhQr8Z9slvw-aLHU9qcFepEhI7TC4UX9a6Wf1jIuzjZs8SwYujaltu3Qc5A9IZXaObEm1vXpXs0DlxQzCaTQlryMKTwCvq4OZSF_ud_-Ebn_K8OvslwMG-oxZ1q-Kt27qqLUB1ceWSYTvhaD1s3zwYg2fg4fP3Z5gvutVSkGXUMRBVnL1y98JDo75gZfGnlfDd63naan5zza6ARm1QmbW_O4Jqq-8y__M.63ORs_fG5Rkfp0VTE-JiSUfBF-Ax5e-5XsVGtvNaw0k&dib_tag=se&keywords=tuffy+cup+holder&qid=1743980021&sprefix=tuffy+cup+holder%2Caps%2C140&sr=8-1

 

[DirtDauberGarage]

Cup cupholder gets a 3/10 for "form" but a 10/10 for "function"

 

[DirtDauberGarage]

Mostly just been driving and enjoying Rusty. He is my daily!!

I did add some CCOT 2 1/2 lift shackles in the back. The springs were sagging and he was looking like a stink bug. Still has a slight "Cruiser Lean" but definitely looks better leveled out.

 

[DirtDauberGarage]

For whatever it's worth... I am pretty satisfied with the shackles and CCOT's customer service. I paid $110 for them and got them in the mail in about 4-5 days. They are stout and went on with no problems. Gave me about 2 inches of lift.

I probably should have paid the extra for greasable, but this is a short-term fix. Going to add a 2 1/2 OME complete setup in the future.

Shackles - HFS™ - Barbell Lift

Shackles - HFS™ - Barbell Lift - "Hell for Stout" are the Best Looking, overbuilt "H" style Shackles on the Market. CCOT has designed and built a super heavy duty 1-1/2" & 2-1/2" "Hell for Stout" lift shackle exclusively for FJ40, FJ60 and FJ62s. These Shackles are made by CCOT and available...

www.coolcruisers.com

I've ordered stuff from CCOT a couple of times and have had a very good experience.

 

[DirtDauberGarage]

Here are a few pics from our time in North Georgia a couple weeks ago...

 

[DirtDauberGarage]

Here is an awesome video of us water crossing off Sarah's Creek...