Build Meet "Rusty" - 1978 USA - FJ40
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DirtDauberGarage
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- #82
Yeah, that is cool. I have never seen this console. I might just make one of those myself!
I found a couple threads with more detail on this. It is made by a Con-Ferr in Burbank California. They are no longer in bussiness.
For Sale - Con-Ferr FJ40 Center Console NOS
Price drop to $150. There are not any scrapes or dings etc. to the extent it looks like a chip of paint has come off that is an optical illusion. Over and out. Here is a New in Box Con-Ferr center console. This is designed to mount over the existing console between the seats. It has...
forum.ih8mud.com
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DirtDauberGarage
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- #83
I joined the 80 club... Picked this up yesterday. 1997 Triple Locked!
DirtDauberGarage
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- #85
This is the first time I have ever used Rusty (or any FJ40) to pull something. I know this was a pretty light load, but man... he did great. I couldn't even tell there was anything back there. It was super satisfying for me to be using this 40 for something it was designed to do... "work"! I couldn't help but feel that Rusty was pretty happy with it, too. He seemed to derive satisfaction from being productive and getting things done as well.
DirtDauberGarage
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- #86
I spent about three hours cleaning the inside of the frame rails using a tiny wire brush, sandpaper, a screwdriver, and compressed air. Two things surprised me during the process.
First, I couldn’t believe how much dirt, gravel, and mud had collected inside and along the bottom of the frame rails. The photos don’t do justice to the sheer volume I removed. In fact, the picture of the driveway after I finished was taken after I had already swept and blown it off once—there was twice as much debris as what you see in the photos.
Second, I was pleasantly surprised by how solid the frame remained. Despite being a spot where dirt and mud tend to accumulate, the frame is still in great condition. There’s some light surface rust to address, but overall, it’s impressively sturdy. I think Rusty has led a good life—well-used, but clearly well cared for over the years.
First, I couldn’t believe how much dirt, gravel, and mud had collected inside and along the bottom of the frame rails. The photos don’t do justice to the sheer volume I removed. In fact, the picture of the driveway after I finished was taken after I had already swept and blown it off once—there was twice as much debris as what you see in the photos.
Second, I was pleasantly surprised by how solid the frame remained. Despite being a spot where dirt and mud tend to accumulate, the frame is still in great condition. There’s some light surface rust to address, but overall, it’s impressively sturdy. I think Rusty has led a good life—well-used, but clearly well cared for over the years.
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DirtDauberGarage
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- #87
I began at the front of the frame and methodically worked my way back, clearing each opening by blowing debris toward the rear, where the inner channel ends just before the rear axle. I repeated this process eight to ten times until I was confident all the dirt and debris had been removed.
I also removed the skid plate to get better access to the frame and the cutouts on the inside.
I also removed the skid plate to get better access to the frame and the cutouts on the inside.
DirtDauberGarage
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- #88
Next, I plan to thoroughly scrub the entire underside using Scotch-Brite pads, scrub brushes, and plenty of degreaser. I’ll likely need to repeat this process a couple of times to ensure the undercarriage and inner frame rails are spotless (including the trans, transfer case, engine, etc.). Once it’s spotless, I’ll address any remaining surface rust with a wire brush, sandpaper, or steel wool. After another quick scrub, I’ll treat all rust spots with KBS Zinc Oxide converter, rinse everything again, and let it dry for a day or two.
Finally, I’ll apply Coreseal Rust Converter to all rust spots and raw metal, as well as the inside of the frame rails. Then, I'll paint the frame, suspension, and axles with black matte enamel.
I’ll tackle a few surface rust spots on the tub (there is just a couple)—sealing and painting them—then touch up areas where the undercoating has worn thin or come off.
Finally, I’ll clean up the skid plate, paint it, reinstall it, and, for the most part, be done with the work on the underside.
I might spray the inside of the frame and a few other areas with Fluid Film, though I’m still debating it since I’ve heard mixed reviews.
What are you'll's thoughts on Fluidfilm??
Finally, I’ll apply Coreseal Rust Converter to all rust spots and raw metal, as well as the inside of the frame rails. Then, I'll paint the frame, suspension, and axles with black matte enamel.
I’ll tackle a few surface rust spots on the tub (there is just a couple)—sealing and painting them—then touch up areas where the undercoating has worn thin or come off.
Finally, I’ll clean up the skid plate, paint it, reinstall it, and, for the most part, be done with the work on the underside.
I might spray the inside of the frame and a few other areas with Fluid Film, though I’m still debating it since I’ve heard mixed reviews.
What are you'll's thoughts on Fluidfilm??
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DirtDauberGarage
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- #89
I spent a couple of hours scrubbing the rear differential, axle, and back third of the frame. This is definitely going to be a multi-step process, so I plan to divide the undercarriage into thirds. Next, I’ll tackle the middle section, including the transfer case and transmission. I’m sure I’ll need to repeat the entire process at least once more. The first round is to remove fifty years of built-up grease and grime from the underside; the second pass will focus on any spots I missed and all the little nooks and crannies, aiming to get it extremely clean and ready for paint. The photos don’t do it justice, but I’ve included some “after” shots of the axle and “before” shots of the transmission and transfer case. Those should be pretty drastic "after pics" when I am done.
I’ll keep making progress a little each day after work.
I’ll keep making progress a little each day after work.
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DirtDauberGarage
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- #90
I have the day off, so I spent a couple of hours focusing on the transfer case. Take a look at these before-and-after pictures... WOW!
DirtDauberGarage
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- #91
I sealed the back third of the frame, springs, and axle with Corroseal. There are many different rust converters on the market and a variety of opinions about them, but I have been very pleased with Corroseal. I used it on my FJ55’s frame and never even painted over it—just left it sealed, and it looked good for two years until I sold it. This time, I plan to paint over it once I’ve finished the entire frame.
Here are some before and after pics.
Here are some before and after pics.
DirtDauberGarage
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- #92
DIY Frame Rust Converter Wand
- $5 spray bottle
- $5 tubing
- $5 1/4 adapter
- Used bolt
- 3-4 holes
Boiled the hose in water for 15-20 seconds and put it in the hanger to cool so it would straighten out. Works great
- $5 spray bottle
- $5 tubing
- $5 1/4 adapter
- Used bolt
- 3-4 holes
Boiled the hose in water for 15-20 seconds and put it in the hanger to cool so it would straighten out. Works great
DirtDauberGarage
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- #93
I will fill it up with Corroseal and spray away inside the frame rails and all the hard-to-reach places. I don't have any spots longer than about 12 inches to reach into, but you could make the wand as long as needed.
Here is a link to Croroseal. You can get it at Home Depot or on Amazon
Here is a link to Croroseal. You can get it at Home Depot or on Amazon
DirtDauberGarage
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- #94
I was curious to see how the 80 Series would drive with a less aggressive tire setup, so I decided to swap Rusty’s (red FJ40) rims and tires onto Pearl (FZJ80) for a comparison. Rusty’s 40 steel wheels are fitted with 33x9.50R15 Kenda Klever ATs, while Pearl has FJ Cruiser 17-inch steelies with 285/75R17 Yokohama Geolandar MTs. Belle (blue FJ40) has a set of classic 15-inch white spoke wheels with 31x10.50R15 tires.
Once I got started, I experimented with several different wheel and tire setups across the trucks. By the end of the day, Pearl was running on 15-inch Kendas and drove much smoother and significantly quieter. Rusty had the classic white spoke 31-inch tires, and I tried the 17-inch Geolandars on Belle as well. It was interesting to see how each combination changed the look and feel of the vehicles.
Here are my thoughts...
The 17-inch FJ Cruiser steel wheels appear oversized on the 40 Series, throwing off the proportions. I think a set of Tacoma 16-inch steelies paired with 33-inch tires would create a much more balanced look. On the other hand, the 15-inch 40 Series steelies look undersized on the 80, making the vehicle seem out of scale. A set of 16-inch old-style steel wheels would likely be a better fit for the 80, visually and functionally.
I’ll most likely put the 17-inch Geolandars back on the 80 Series for now, but I plan to eventually swap out the mud-terrain tires for a set of all-terrains. The current Geolandars are just too aggressive, loud, and bumpy for daily driving comfort. I’ve also grown fond of the white spoke wheels on Rusty and am considering moving the grey steelies and Kenda tires over to Belle. Once I finalize these changes, I’ll be sure to snap more photos and share the updates.
Feel free to give your opinion and comments. I would love to know what you guys think.
Once I got started, I experimented with several different wheel and tire setups across the trucks. By the end of the day, Pearl was running on 15-inch Kendas and drove much smoother and significantly quieter. Rusty had the classic white spoke 31-inch tires, and I tried the 17-inch Geolandars on Belle as well. It was interesting to see how each combination changed the look and feel of the vehicles.
Here are my thoughts...
The 17-inch FJ Cruiser steel wheels appear oversized on the 40 Series, throwing off the proportions. I think a set of Tacoma 16-inch steelies paired with 33-inch tires would create a much more balanced look. On the other hand, the 15-inch 40 Series steelies look undersized on the 80, making the vehicle seem out of scale. A set of 16-inch old-style steel wheels would likely be a better fit for the 80, visually and functionally.
I’ll most likely put the 17-inch Geolandars back on the 80 Series for now, but I plan to eventually swap out the mud-terrain tires for a set of all-terrains. The current Geolandars are just too aggressive, loud, and bumpy for daily driving comfort. I’ve also grown fond of the white spoke wheels on Rusty and am considering moving the grey steelies and Kenda tires over to Belle. Once I finalize these changes, I’ll be sure to snap more photos and share the updates.
Feel free to give your opinion and comments. I would love to know what you guys think.
DirtDauberGarage
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- #95
I installed a tachometer on Rusty this weekend and was surprised by the RPM readings at different times. I tend to shift around 3,000 RPM, which is higher than I thought, but I was also glad to see it cruises at about 2,200 RPM at 55 mph. Since I rarely drive faster than 55-60 mph, it’s reassuring to know I’m not over-revving the engine
