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- Feb 10, 2002
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- 44,830
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- Canton, Mississippi
- Website
- www.seeandeatms.com
Yes. Just call or message him. He made me some custom lines.
Builds Maytag. 1967 LPB, a daily driven survivor (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter DailyDrive_FJ45
- Start date
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Yes. Just call or message him. He made me some custom lines.
middlecalf
SILVER Star
SOR has a clutch and slave kit that includes the hardline. @oregon fj put his tin cups on new cylinders.
oregon fj
Serial rescuer of old vehicles
The key to keeping the original style will be the replacement of the large diameter hard line. The fittings for that line are M11, which is... odd, to say the least. Newer packages (such as the kit from SOR) use later model parts—matched master, slave, hose and hard line.
If you can get a replacement M11 hard line, then you will need to convert a brake master into a clutch master, as correct early clutch masters are almost impossible to find. I bought a new brake master from Toyota and converted it, the details are in this post - Early Master Cylinders
If you can get a replacement M11 hard line, then you will need to convert a brake master into a clutch master, as correct early clutch masters are almost impossible to find. I bought a new brake master from Toyota and converted it, the details are in this post - Early Master Cylinders
- Thread starter
- #44
The key to keeping the original style will be the replacement of the large diameter hard line. The fittings for that line are M11, which is... odd, to say the least. Newer packages (such as the kit from SOR) use later model parts—matched master, slave, hose and hard line.
If you can get a replacement M11 hard line, then you will need to convert a brake master into a clutch master, as correct early clutch masters are almost impossible to find. I bought a new brake master from Toyota and converted it, the details are in this post - Early Master Cylinders
Yeah that's the thing .I have the correcr master in hand now (converted brake MC), but can't seem to source the hard line. Thinking of just saying screw it and converting to the newer style to get it back on the road, then maybe somewhere along the line sourcing the correct line to run the original looking MC again.
oregon fj
Serial rescuer of old vehicles
- Thread starter
- #46
Yeah I spoke to him on the phone earlier .he told me to send the old lines and he'd see what he could do
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whitey45
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #48
Oh awesome! PM sent
- Thread starter
- #49
I guess I should also ask, since I'm replacing the slave now as well. Is the flexible line the same across years? Or does that have a different fitting size too?
- Thread starter
- #51
More shenanigans today while the truck is out of commission for the clutch hydraulics.
Straightened, patched bolt holes and painted the bezel.
Installed my "auxiliary gas tank" for when i inevitably misjudge how much gas is actually left .
Also pulled the guage cluster, cleaned up all the contacts and pulled the odometer which was only rolling tenths. Followed some tutorials I found on here and disassembled, cleaned and reassembled it. I opted to zero it out, because
1. Who knows how long and for how many miles it had been broken previously.
2. It will make it much easier to track my own mileage.
3. It's not like it really matters anyway. No odo disclosure required for something this old...
Straightened, patched bolt holes and painted the bezel.
Installed my "auxiliary gas tank" for when i inevitably misjudge how much gas is actually left .
Also pulled the guage cluster, cleaned up all the contacts and pulled the odometer which was only rolling tenths. Followed some tutorials I found on here and disassembled, cleaned and reassembled it. I opted to zero it out, because
1. Who knows how long and for how many miles it had been broken previously.
2. It will make it much easier to track my own mileage.
3. It's not like it really matters anyway. No odo disclosure required for something this old...
Last edited:
middlecalf
SILVER Star
Thanks for painting the bezel 
- Joined
- Feb 10, 2002
- Threads
- 550
- Messages
- 44,830
- Location
- Canton, Mississippi
- Website
- www.seeandeatms.com
Man. I need to do that to two of my trucks. How bad was it?
- Thread starter
- #54
The odometer? Not bad at all. They're pretty simple as long as you keep the parts organized in the order you took them off you shouldn't have any problem getting it back together .
It only needs to be cleaned. There's old grease that gets gummy and prevents the gears inside from turning .
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- Thread starter
- #55
Thanks for painting the bezel
Haha you're welcome. I prefer a white bezel too .
oregon fj
Serial rescuer of old vehicles
I second that, I found the same on mine, bound up with hardened grease.
One thing I noticed, be VERY careful with touching the odometer wheel numbers. The screen printing (or whatever they used) is very fragile.
The higher miles or km numbers are always the problem.
They sleep more than they work
& the grease is hardSometimes you can get them working again the do little way.
Lay it in the heat clean it a bit & put some spray like wd40 between the numbers.
- Thread starter
- #58
The higher miles or km numbers are always the problem.
They sleep more than they work
Sometimes you can get them working again the do little way.
Lay it in the heat clean it a bit & put some spray like wd40 between the numbers.
Mine definitely needed to be pulled apart unfortunately. Some of the gears were completely locked to their spindles .
- Thread starter
- #59
More parts trickling in...
Factory front license plate frame, and those rubber bits for the hood...
Factory front license plate frame, and those rubber bits for the hood...
whitey45
SILVER Star
Not the correct license plate frame or the rear hood bumpers, both later model, but they do the same job! Clutch line went out yesterday via usps, you should have it Monday.
