Archie 1962 FJ25
Autocrat
So even 25 clutch master has 11 mm fitting or both brake and clutch master uses 9 mm fittings?
Last edited:
25 Master Cylinders (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter FJnotCJ
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
So even 25 clutch master has 11 mm fitting or both brake and clutch master uses 9 mm fittings?
Hey guys, catching up on some killer tech here. Just to confirm, the 25 cap uses the 11mm and the later 4x variant uses the 9mm correct? Is it 11 x 1.0mm
EDIT: Answered my question by looking at Racer65's new hose offerings
Shutterfly
Turns out I'm still on the hunt. The 66-70 clutch master has a 11x1.25mm fitting, is the end cap of the pre-66 also 11x1.25? or 11x1.0? What about the brake master? Is it 9x1.0 or 9x1.25? I've got an OEM brake master here but I don't have any 9mm fittings I can readily find a 9mm fitting to verify. Thanks in advance!
The brake master is m9x1.0. I don't recall on the clutch master but I can check when I get home.
Thank you!
Only thirteen years on a rebuild. Teach me to drive this thing.
Archie 1962 FJ25
Autocrat
Hope all is well and you managed to stay out of trouble.
Just a clutch, not really needed anyhow.
Nifski
SILVER Star
These will be coming off our 64, I will throw up on the board if there is interest?
Thx,N
Thx,N
I'm interested in the tin cups
oregon fj
Serial rescuer of old vehicles
Thought I’d update this thread. I noted in my build thread that one of the prior owners of my rig found a pair of new master cylinders on their shelf from before he decided to sell it, and brought them to me today.
My guess is that the PO must have seen this thread, as what I got were a pair of Centric cylinders, both part number 130.44730 as listed above.
Unfortunately, the cylinders inside the boxes won’t work at all. The new items look more like what Rockauto shows for FJ55 without the removable end fitting. So obviously they can’t be swapped over to work with the larger clutch lines. Worse, the end ports on both are 10mm thread, not the 9mm thread the early rigs need, so they won’t work for brakes either.
It is possible that they were misboxed, and the correct parts might be available in the future. I did ask “da google” about these, and found a review on Partsgeek.com for this same Centric number that was also said to be incorrect.
In the mean time, since my original cylinders’ bores are corroded, I need to find good replacements, and I’d like to maintain original look. Part of that will be retrofitting the tin cups, which is straightforward. And getting cylinders with the removable end cap is easy for the brakes.
But I don’t seem to be able to find a new clutch cylinder with the removable cap. The clutch cylinder bodies I’m seeing don’t look at all like the original. So should I consider the same thing as with the Centric? Buy 2 brake cylinders and modify one by removing the residual valve and swapping the end cap for the clutch?
Any other visually appropriate options?
Why not have yours rebuilt? There are still some shops out there that will bore and re-sleeve your master/brake cylinder. Stainless to boot.
oregon fj
Serial rescuer of old vehicles
Can’t have one sleeved for close to the cost of new. Many Toyota dealers will sell #47200-35011 for less than $100 each. If I can use the info above from @treerootCO to easily make one of those work for the clutch as well as the brakes, it’s a bargain.
oregon fj
Serial rescuer of old vehicles
Got my pair of Toyota brake master cylinders today. Part #47200-35011. Proceeded to convert one for use as a clutch master first. Here is a comparison of the new with the bare body of the old. Note that the new does have the TEQ logo cast in, although not as legible as the original.
To convert a new brake master cylinder into a faux tin cup clutch cylinder you need to salvage the tin cup (with the hollow mounting bolt and washers) and the end cap with the female 11mm fitting from the old cylinder. You need a 19mm socket and extension to remove the tin cup, and a 38mm wrench or socket to remove the old end cap. These parts are tight, so it is easiest to loosen them while the cylinder is still bolted to the firewall.
Clean and de-rust these parts thoroughly. (Pay no attention to the thermostat housing here.)
To make the changes to the new cylinder, remove the plastic reservoir cup and break loose (but do not remove yet) the end cap. The new copper colored end cap is 41mm. As with the old one, bolting the new cylinder to the firewall allows the proper torque to be applied.
Now carefully remove the end cap. Do it slowly and note that there is a spring pushing on it, so be careful not to let the spring and various bits fly out when you remove it.
The residual valve that needs to be removed for use as a clutch master is between the spring and the end cap. There is the valve and a valve seat that sits in the spring. Remove them both.
Now install the end cap you removed from the old cylinder. Note that in addition to having the correct 11mm fitting, the old end cap has a machined recess for the spring to sit in. Don’t forget to reinstall the sealing washer with the cap.
Snug the end cap hand tight, then bolt the cylinder to the firewall so you can tighten the cap. I’ve never seen a torque spec for this, but you do want it reasonably tight. You can then install the tin cup to the cylinder, making sure you use the thick washer on the inside and the thin one between the cup and the cylinder. The hollow bolt should also be tightened down pretty tight.
That’s all for the clutch. The brake cylinder need not be opened up, just change the reservoir cup to the tin cup. I’m considering changing the end cap on my brake cylinder to the old one rather than the new copper colored cap, but that is not necessary for function, just vintage looks.
To convert a new brake master cylinder into a faux tin cup clutch cylinder you need to salvage the tin cup (with the hollow mounting bolt and washers) and the end cap with the female 11mm fitting from the old cylinder. You need a 19mm socket and extension to remove the tin cup, and a 38mm wrench or socket to remove the old end cap. These parts are tight, so it is easiest to loosen them while the cylinder is still bolted to the firewall.
Clean and de-rust these parts thoroughly. (Pay no attention to the thermostat housing here.)
To make the changes to the new cylinder, remove the plastic reservoir cup and break loose (but do not remove yet) the end cap. The new copper colored end cap is 41mm. As with the old one, bolting the new cylinder to the firewall allows the proper torque to be applied.
Now carefully remove the end cap. Do it slowly and note that there is a spring pushing on it, so be careful not to let the spring and various bits fly out when you remove it.
The residual valve that needs to be removed for use as a clutch master is between the spring and the end cap. There is the valve and a valve seat that sits in the spring. Remove them both.
Now install the end cap you removed from the old cylinder. Note that in addition to having the correct 11mm fitting, the old end cap has a machined recess for the spring to sit in. Don’t forget to reinstall the sealing washer with the cap.
Snug the end cap hand tight, then bolt the cylinder to the firewall so you can tighten the cap. I’ve never seen a torque spec for this, but you do want it reasonably tight. You can then install the tin cup to the cylinder, making sure you use the thick washer on the inside and the thin one between the cup and the cylinder. The hollow bolt should also be tightened down pretty tight.
That’s all for the clutch. The brake cylinder need not be opened up, just change the reservoir cup to the tin cup. I’m considering changing the end cap on my brake cylinder to the old one rather than the new copper colored cap, but that is not necessary for function, just vintage looks.
Last edited:
oregon fj
Serial rescuer of old vehicles
I should add here that this project does not require the use of real Toyota OE cylinders. The process should be exactly the same with any aftermarket cylinder that has the removable end cap. For example, the Centric brand noted earlier would have worked if Centric hadn’t misboxed a whole batch. With an aftermarket cylinder there would be no functional difference, and the only notable visual difference would be the lack of the TEQ logo.
oregon fj
Serial rescuer of old vehicles
As an additional follow up, it is worth mentioning that any parts you are reusing from the original master cylinders needs to be in good condition. Realistically, since it is unlikely that the steel end cap will be in bad shape, what you need to look for is the condition of the tin cups themselves. I have determined that one of my 2 cups (the one I put on the new clutch master) has a small leak.
Short term, I have reinstalled one of the plastic reservoirs. Longer term I will need to find a replacement cup, or perhaps try to have this one soldered to seal the leak. Anyone have an extra cup sitting around?
Short term, I have reinstalled one of the plastic reservoirs. Longer term I will need to find a replacement cup, or perhaps try to have this one soldered to seal the leak. Anyone have an extra cup sitting around?
