Builds Maytag. 1967 LPB, a daily driven survivor (1 Viewer)

[DailyDrive_FJ45]

Capping off the bed area projects I applied some bed liner last week. Durabak-18 Textured, cream color.

Turned out great! Also gave the jerry can and holder a fresh coat of paint while they were out.

Before

After:

Also spent a little time and designed myself a decal for the rear window featuring the IG Handle...

 

[DailyDrive_FJ45]

Got my custom stickers in today. I think they turned out great!

 

[a.greenspan]

 

[a.greenspan]

Sorry Sir....
...I forgot to deliver the decal for your windshield.

 

[DailyDrive_FJ45]

Been a while since my last update!

Winter came. Maytag helped us get our Christmas tree from Mt Hood National Forest

That trip with frequent manual defogging of the windshield with a rag underscored the need for me to get my heater back in.

So I decided before our next trip up to Ranier I needed to get that done.

 

[DailyDrive_FJ45]

Over the summer I replaced my water pump. The original pump had the early style shutoff valves for the heater attached, so when I was installing it I didn't really have a way to hook my heater back up.

Also my heater core had a slight leak anyway so it came out and sat on a shelf in my garage until I got fed up with having no defrost (that's all I really need. Can stays plenty warm on its own)


I had to come up with a solution for the hookups. While I was at it I wanted some valves that worked. The old ones were stuck open. Luckily there is a really good hose and fitting shop just down the road from me. They were able to get me sorted out with some fittings.

There was a drain hole on the radiator pipe I was able to utilize

Similar fittings on the head side

This allowed me to keep the hoses in roughly the same configuration as stock. Close enough anyway.

I wasn't going to put the original case back together looking like this

So that got refreshed too while I waited for the new heater core from City Racer

 

[DailyDrive_FJ45]

Foam insulation glued to the defrost vent fins

New core installed also got some new elbows for the defrost ducts from City Racer. Fresh sticker because the old one was too rough.

Core was slightly different from the original. Wrapped it in a strip of an old foam yoga mat and wedged it in there. Actually worked great and seals up nice! I'm going to save the original core and see if I can get it repaired to have as a spare.

 

[DailyDrive_FJ45]

Heater back in and working great! Needed to piece that duct back together with tape. It's temporary. I'll replace it once we're back from the next trip. I just needed it to work for now.

 

[DailyDrive_FJ45]

Truck performed flawlessly getting us up to our cabin for Christmas! Longest trip with it to date.

Spent the day today chugging up some forest roads in Gifford-Pinchot National Forest to get us to a trailhead. Didn't even break a sweat. Can't say the same for us with the trail we chose to hike. Haha! It was a grind of a climb. Dogs had a blast though

 

[DailyDrive_FJ45]

More snow wheeling the day after Christmas. This time much higher altitude. We weren't able to make it to the trailhead we wanted to hike, but still had a great time with the dogs and a beautiful view.

Getting turned around on the trail took a bit of digging and maneuvering, but was able to get it sorted and get moving after about an hour or so.

 

[DailyDrive_FJ45]

Back home now and after the first really long trip in the truck I have one major concern.

The single circuit brake master.

At some point I lost a bunch of fluid and my pedal got spongy. Unfortunately for the life of me I can't figure out where the hell the fluid went! Master has been refilled and doesn't seem to be losing fluid, but it had to go somewhere right? Non of the drums seem to be leaking fluid that would indicate a leaky wheel cylinder. The master doesn't seem to be leaking. The lines are in good shape. No idea where it went.

As much as I'd love to keep the original tin cup master, if I'm going to be driving this I think I need to err on the side of safety and at the very least go dual circuit.

Ultimately i'd really like a 4 wheel disc setup (like the manafre or jto conversion), but I absolutely will not chop the brace on the firewall so I can't run a booster easily.

Anyone run non-boosted discs? How doable is it?

 

[DomSmith]

@cruiserbrett ran discs without a booster so he might have some insight. I borrowed @dmaddox and a few others concept of using a small Geo Metro booster with a spacer to clear the brace. Worked really well. I’m still using it but had to do a custom early bronco style offset bracket (read: a lot of work) to clear the 3FE when I swapped out the F135.

Discs are awfully nice. Some like a properly tuned drum setup but the discs are pretty much install and you’re done.
I’ve always thought it would be cool to add the old metal OEM reservoirs to any brake master, just never looked into it enough to know if it would work.

 

[DailyDrive_FJ45]

@cruiserbrett ran discs without a booster so he might have some insight. I borrowed @dmaddox and a few others concept of using a small Geo Metro booster with a spacer to clear the brace. Worked really well. I’m still using it but had to do a custom early bronco style offset bracket (read: a lot of work) to clear the 3FE when I swapped out the F135.

Discs are awfully nice. Some like a properly tuned drum setup but the discs are pretty much install and you’re done.
I’ve always thought it would be cool to add the old metal OEM reservoirs to any brake master, just never looked into it enough to know if it would work.

I actually thought about trying to swap the tin cup onto a more modern master as well. Might have to see if that's possible.

I'd like to keep it looking relatively stock. If I can avoid having all sorts of adapters and spacers to wedge in a booster I'd prefer not to. Don't need it to stop on a dime or slow down huge oversized tires. Just needs to adequately stop stock-ish size tires in a reasonable amount of time. If a non-boosted disc setup can accomplish this I'd run it.

 

[SteveH]

I ran a '77 front disk FJ40 axle (non-power boosted) on my '65 FJ45 - worked great. I used a 1988 power brake master cylinder (from a junkyard v6 Toyota pickup - 4 cyl would likely work) bolted directly to the firewall without a booster. No adapters. I carefully adjusted the pushrod length for slight pedal slack with no drag.

Plenty of stopping power even on 33x9.5 tires. I had a good amount of pedal travel (I compared bore sizes vs. other Toyotas) and was totally please with the result. Very clean underhood - no 'brake MC hitting the side of the carb' issues. I had an '83 2F for an engine in this truck. I ran a stock '77 rear drum brake axle on this truck, as far as rear brakes went.

 

[c2dfj45]

Back home now and after the first really long trip in the truck I have one major concern.

The single circuit brake master.

At some point I lost a bunch of fluid and my pedal got spongy. Unfortunately for the life of me I can't figure out where the hell the fluid went! Master has been refilled and doesn't seem to be losing fluid, but it had to go somewhere right? Non of the drums seem to be leaking fluid that would indicate a leaky wheel cylinder. The master doesn't seem to be leaking. The lines are in good shape. No idea where it went.

As much as I'd love to keep the original tin cup master, if I'm going to be driving this I think I need to err on the side of safety and at the very least go dual circuit.

Ultimately i'd really like a 4 wheel disc setup (like the manafre or jto conversion), but I absolutely will not chop the brace on the firewall so I can't run a booster easily.

Anyone run non-boosted discs? How doable is it?

We don't cut the braces on our old trucks so we use the ABS Powerbrake electric power brake system. Nice setup. Just needs an adapter at the firewall and some slight creativity on the linkage but that's it.....easy. Boosted brakes, dual circuit, firewall stays as is. We run 3FEs so we have plenum interference issues with normal boosters/MCs on the early trucks. My LV build has good info on our setup. Not exactly OEM but I like my brakes to work....with a set of front and rear discs....they will stop on a dime like a modern car. Love the setup.

 

[DailyDrive_FJ45]

We don't cut the braces on our old trucks so we use the ABS Powerbrake electric power brake system. Nice setup. Just needs an adapter at the firewall and some slight creativity on the linkage but that's it.....easy. Boosted brakes, dual circuit, firewall stays as is. We run 3FEs so we have plenum interference issues with normal boosters/MCs on the early trucks. My LV build has good info on our setup. Not exactly OEM but I like my brakes to work....with a set of front and rear discs....they will stop on a dime like a modern car. Love the setup.

Post some pics of the setup and link to the parts?

 

[DailyDrive_FJ45]

I ran a '77 front disk FJ40 axle (non-power boosted) on my '65 FJ45 - worked great. I used a 1988 power brake master cylinder (from a junkyard v6 Toyota pickup - 4 cyl would likely work) bolted directly to the firewall without a booster. No adapters. I carefully adjusted the pushrod length for slight pedal slack with no drag.

Plenty of stopping power even on 33x9.5 tires. I had a good amount of pedal travel (I compared bore sizes vs. other Toyotas) and was totally please with the result. Very clean underhood - no 'brake MC hitting the side of the carb' issues. I had an '83 2F for an engine in this truck. I ran a stock '77 rear drum brake axle on this truck, as far as rear brakes went.

I suspected that would probably be fine as long as I wasn't trying to slow down huge tires or a ton of speed. It will never have either of those things.

Good to know it's an option

 

[c2dfj45]

Post some pics of the setup and link to the parts?

Their website is horrible.... www.abspowerbrake.com It's their compact high power brake system. Here's the link to Speedway's listing for it Compact Electric Brake Power Booster Master Cylinder, Disc/Disc

With the rib and a 3FE in an LV

We used an adapter plate that converted the 3 bolt original mount into a 2 post mount for the new MC.

This was our 2nd or 3rd one on this 40.....we had welded an adapter plate to the firewall....it was a lot more work and not really necessary....the adapter flange that we used for the LV was much cleaner.

This is a SUPER old pic of the first one we used in a 45lbp....only one I have of the pedal setup. Nothing to crazy as I recall. I seem to remember this one being a welded plate to the firewall. We built this truck a long time ago....still have it.

This is one on a 78 with a 3FE....the later model install is way easier. This was an adapter plate setup. 4 bolt flange this time because there was a booster on this firewall. Made it easy to make a mount. Earlier 3 hole style is a little tight.

 

[DailyDrive_FJ45]

Wow. Pricey. Looks nice though.

Definitely keep that in mind as an option, especially if unboosted doesn't give me the stopping power I need.

 

[c2dfj45]

Wow. Pricey. Looks nice though.

Definitely keep that in mind as an option, especially if unboosted doesn't give me the stopping power I need.

It is expensive BUT....it's easy and quick to install. And it works. To remove that rib is a big job....patching in a later firewall section most likely or hours of modding the rib to make it happen. When I crunch the numbers on our builds, often times it makes sense to go with this. Build an adapter, bolt things up, make some lines, done.

My trucks stop like modern cars. With a 3FE and 3.73s, it's a good thing because they actually can be driven with the regular flow of traffic....I'd almost say they're quick. Kind of a bad thing though because when people see an old truck.....they pull out.