Master Cylinder Rebuild - DIY (4 Viewers)

[medtro]

Place rags or paper toweling under Master Cylinder Assembly to catch brake fluid when lines are disconnected.
Unclip brake lines from clip, need something to wedge open clip to get line out. I used an Allen wrench, but you might want to order a new clip just in case.

Disconnect brake lines (green arrows) from master cylinder, if you have ATRAC, will have 4 lines, otherwise 3 lines. Carefully pull them out of MC, and move slightly out of way, you DO NOT want to kink them.
Master Cylinder Assembly comes out by moving forward and towards fender (blue arrow). The red high pressure line will try to catch on disconnected brake lines, so keep an eye out to guide things.

Does anyone know the OEM or aftermarket part number for the clip next to the accumulator?

 

[UZJ100LC]

Anyone know how I get a hold of this Andy Le gentlemen who rebuilds these MC units?

 

[nckwltn]

Anyone know how I get a hold of this Andy Le gentlemen who rebuilds these MC units?

PM sent

 

[African100]

Year old member posting for the first time. I've had the problem of spongy brakes for over a year. At traffic lights, with foot on the pedal and car completely stopped, it would slowly start creeping forward and the pedal would go soft. After going through this thread, I decided to tackle this issue and replaced the master cylinder kit as per the instructions here. I can gladly report back that the brake pedal feels how it should and car stops on demand. Excellent writeup Skidoo.

 

[Jczajka]

Does anyone know the OEM or aftermarket part number for the clip next to the accumulator?

The original part 90480-01630 seems to be discontinued everywhere, except maybe from some overseas suppliers.

Looks like 90949-01613 or 90949-01C06 that are used in different locations could work. Both options seem to be basically the same part. both around $3.30 from my local dealer.

 

[Trukdiver]

Thanks so much for the writeup @Skidoo . It made the job very easy.

 

[awkragt]

This is great news! Price for pre-2003 brake booster assembly also went down by almost $1000!

1998-2003 Toyota Actuator Assembly 47050-60010 | Toyota Parts

Genuine Factory 1998-2003 Toyota part # 47050-60010 - Actuator Assembly. Toyota Online Parts is your choice for Toyota Parts and Toyota accessories. We are a factory authorized Toyota Dealer with Toyota parts and Toyota accessories all at wholesale prices for your Tundra, Tacoma, Camry...

toyotaparts.mcgeorgetoyota.com

At these prices is it worth paying $600-700 for a rebuild when a new OEM assembly is only $1,300?

 

[ClassyJalopy]

At these prices is it worth paying $600-700 for a rebuild when a new OEM assembly is only $1,300?

To each their own. I think I will pay 1300 for iem and peace of mind

 

[YezusLX]

To each their own. I think I will pay 1300 for iem and peace of mind

"Surgeons" can afford to be a little spendy with their "peace of mind". Haha

 

[2001LC]

New OEM one and done, if you're paying someone for the labor!

 

[BigBen97]

I just did this. Opted for the full unit for $1300 because I worried that I would do the motor and then the accumulator would fail or something else. It also saved a decent amount of time not having to move parts over to my old unit.

One thing I wanted to share was my braking started to feel like I had warped rotors. After the swap that feeling is gone. It’s another clue for failure anyway, or at least that’s my assumption based on how my failure mode presented.

The swap was super easy, maybe straightforward is better to say. Took me about 1.5 hours to swap and another hour to bleed with my wife. I used techstream to complete the air purge on the front calipers. Not sure if I needed to do that on the rears as well. The YouTube video I watched was on an older vehicle and didn’t have the rear caliper air purge option.

 

[watcher]

Just replaced mine this weekend. Creeping up on 260k miles and brakes completely gave out in the drive way. Was able to source this for $800:

47070-60010 Genuine Toyota Pump Assy, Brake Booster W/Accumulator

ToyotaPartsDeal.com offers the great deal for genuine Toyota parts 47070-60010 (4707060010) Pump Assy, Brake Booster W/Accumulator for $793.93. All parts are backed by the Toyota's warranty.

www.toyotapartsdeal.com

 

[medtro]

The original part 90480-01630 seems to be discontinued everywhere, except maybe from some overseas suppliers.

Looks like 90949-01613 or 90949-01C06 that are used in different locations could work. Both options seem to be basically the same part. both around $3.30 from my local dealer.

90949-01C06 didn't work out. The mounting part is too long.

I am always up for a challenge, what are you looking for?

@JimSoCal, would you be able to help with finding an equivalent clip?

 

[TexLexican]

I just did this. Opted for the full unit for $1300 because I worried that I would do the motor and then the accumulator would fail or something else. It also saved a decent amount of time not having to move parts over to my old unit.

One thing I wanted to share was my braking started to feel like I had warped rotors. After the swap that feeling is gone. It’s another clue for failure anyway, or at least that’s my assumption based on how my failure mode presented.

The swap was super easy, maybe straightforward is better to say. Took me about 1.5 hours to swap and another hour to bleed with my wife. I used techstream to complete the air purge on the front calipers. Not sure if I needed to do that on the rears as well. The YouTube video I watched was on an older vehicle and didn’t have the rear caliper air purge option.

Thats the first I’ve read of the warped rotor symptom which worries me. Was this only felt while coming to a stop and not necessarily applying brakes at highway speeds? While I come to a stop my rig will lurch forward and back kind of mildly, but enough to notice.

 

[spressomon]

How Toyota skirted around an official recall and/or being sued to the hilt regarding a couple glaring issues on the UZJ100 platform...is beyond me. Notably the brake system issues apart of this thread, front brake calipers & the Evap canister venting/not venting issues...

 

[ClassyJalopy]

How Toyota skirted around an official recall and/or being sued to the hilt regarding a couple glaring issues on the UZJ100 platform...is beyond me. Notably the brake system issues apart of this thread, front brake calipers & the Evap canister venting/not venting issues...

Easy! Sold them in small enough numbers

 

[Eyedaho]

How Toyota skirted around an official recall and/or being sued to the hilt regarding a couple glaring issues on the UZJ100 platform...is beyond me. Notably the brake system issues apart of this thread, front brake calipers & the Evap canister venting/not venting issues...

What's the issue you're referring to with the front brake calipers?

 

[spressomon]

I fought pathetic front brake performance...sometimes on steep terrain with the nose pointed uphill, the pedal would go to the floor. A couple effing scary situations ensued and damn lucky it didn't end in disaster! Yes, the brake fluid was at proper level, refreshed, bled properly, etc. Until I installed the Stoptech calipers, apart of the BBK, the problem persisted.

After I installed the Stoptech calipers (along with upsized rotors apart of the BBK kit), the mushy pedal syndrome that effects some UZJ100s, including mine, went 100% away. Brake pedal firmness increased exponentially with very little free play in the pedal. Braking performance, regardless of slope angle, nose-up/nose-down went from unreliable to the best in class for modulation, pedal "feel" and overall stopping power & predictability...

 

[ClassyJalopy]

I fought pathetic front brake performance...sometimes on steep terrain with the nose pointed uphill, the pedal would go to the floor. A couple effing scary situations ensued and damn lucky it didn't end in disaster! Yes, the brake fluid was at proper level, refreshed, bled properly, etc. Until I installed the Stoptech calipers, apart of the BBK, the problem persisted.

After I installed the Stoptech calipers (along with upsized rotors apart of the BBK kit), the mushy pedal syndrome that effects some UZJ100s, including mine, went 100% away. Brake pedal firmness increased exponentially with very little free play in the pedal. Braking performance, regardless of slope angle, nose-up/nose-down went from unreliable to the best in class for modulation, pedal "feel" and overall stopping power & predictability...

You know I have noticed it a lot on the steep trails too! I couldn't put my finger on it and have just chalked it up to a heavy truck. Perhaps BBK is something worth investing into if you want to own your truck for a long time.

 

[spressomon]

...or you just want to live to see another day. Even if larger rotors/BBK isn't in the cards, for whatever reason, and you have experienced similar brake system failure as I described, I think swapping to Stoptech calipers (and cryo'd rotors) is a good and wise expenditure/investment.