I struggled for a while to get a good bleed. Kept trying without success and started thinking the problem was something else, but it wasn’t. If you haven’t done it yet, do an ABS bleed using tech stream. That method made all the difference for me.
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Yep, I’ve tried bleeding the system but only manually, I cannot get tech stream to do it with out an error all the time. I am hoping that air is the problem 2001LC.If you've new OEM booster assembly (motor, wire, pump, accumulator) and you can hear the booster motor run. Than you've air in system or a leak.
I experienced an error as well. I kept trying and sometimes it worked, sometimes it gave me an error. Not sure what the cause of that was.Yep, I’ve tried bleeding the system but only manually, I cannot get tech stream to do it with out an error all the time. I am hoping that air is the problem 2001LC.
When you said "if you can hear the booster motor run", you mean if you can hear the booster motor run from the cab right? If open the hood and listen carefully I still can hear a very little humming, I think, after all, there still a running pump and motor, there has to be some sound.If you've new OEM booster assembly (motor, wire, pump, accumulator) and you can hear the booster motor run. Than you've air in system or a leak.
Could the wires possibly be soldered to the new commutator rather than crimping. That may be more practical and easier on the wires.....if doable.My pump motor died Sunday morning. I pulled it apart with hopes that I could rebuild the motor myself. I was able to get it off, but fitting a new one would be really difficult without breaking a wire. It looks like you have to rewind the motor to get the new commutator on the shaft because the wires are wrapped tight on the tabs that you must bend to get it loose.
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Where are you getting a new commutator from?My pump motor died Sunday morning. I pulled it apart with hopes that I could rebuild the motor myself. I was able to get it off, but fitting a new one would be really difficult without breaking a wire. It looks like you have to rewind the motor to get the new commutator on the shaft because the wires are wrapped tight on the tabs that you must bend to get it loose.
Part Number | Part Name | Price | Quantity | Total |
---|---|---|---|---|
47070-60010 | Power Brake Booster | $778.12 | 1 | $778.12 |
04493-60330 | Brake Master Cylinder Repair Kit | $68.57 | 1 | $68.57 |
31417-35010 | Master Cylinder Grommet | $2.52 | 1 | $2.52 |
47255-16010 | Master Cylinder Reservoir Grommet | $8.92 | 2 | $17.84 |
I wasn't happy with my ABSD bleed on my 98 after replacing the ABS motor/accumulator. Local Lexus dealer was able to flush for just $129, so that's the route I took.Just purchased the City Racer booster pump and MC rebuild kit. Haven't had any lights or failures, but with 275k miles and accumulator test is taking ~45 sec even after bleeding; I'd rather be safe than sorry. Biggest question mark for me is the ABS bleed process. I have techstream but it seems many people aren't able to do the ABS bleed without getting errors.
I consider to have these parts stored in the truck tool box or rear tail gate area and use it if I have a breakdown far from home...I wasn't happy with my ABSD bleed on my 98 after replacing the ABS motor/accumulator. Local Lexus dealer was able to flush for just $129, so that's the route I took.
Do you mean carry the brake booster as spare with you? That seems wholly unnecessary man. If you have nearly 200K miles on your truck, I would consider replacing the brake booster as a precaution and then never worry abt it for another $200k miles.I consider to have these parts stored in the truck tool box or rear tail gate area and use it if I have a breakdown far from home...
I am at 240k miles. Truck is in west TX all its life... break is perfect so I felt like why open a can of worms when there is no issue with the system. I plan on getting oem motor and accumulator and piston/seals. What problems did you have during the bleeding process?Do you mean carry the brake booster as spare with you? That seems wholly unnecessary man. If you have nearly 200K miles on your truck, I would consider replacing the brake booster as a precaution and then never worry abt it for another $200k miles.
Mine was working great at 238K miles but when it fails, it goes with almost zero fore-warning. So I bit the bullet and replaced it. Not quite sure what you mean by can of worms since the replacement is quite straightforward and too less than 2 hours all said and done.I am at 240k miles. Truck is in west TX all its life... break is perfect so I felt like why open a can of worms when there is no issue with the system. I plan on getting oem motor and accumulator and piston/seals. What problems did you have during the bleeding process?
Thats good to hear. So you got oem motor, accumulator and seals/piston and took 2 hours for all that? I am getting ready to do the front control arms so will attempt the brakes later.Mine was working great at 238K miles but when it fails, it goes with almost zero fore-warning. So I bit the bullet and replaced it. Not quite sure what you mean by can of worms since the replacement is quite straightforward and too less than 2 hours all said and done.
I did not have any issues during bleeding (once I realized that the ignition needs to be ON for there to be any pressure in the system!). I was just not able to find options in the TechStream to activate individual ABS channels to flush the air out. That was the part that I paid the dealer to do.
Yes the whole assembly comes out without much fuss (held on by 4 bolts!) and then you can play with it on the bench. Once I replaced the booster motor and accumulator bottle, re attached to the ABS module and replaced the master cylinder piston. I semi-bled it on the bench (sitting in a container). And then just bled all 4 corners.Thats good to hear. So you got oem motor, accumulator and seals/piston and took 2 hours for all that? I am getting ready to do the front control arms so will attempt the brakes later.
Did you bled the pump at 4 lines as well as the red line connecting the body of the master culinder to accumulator? Or just 4 lines going to 4 wheels?
Finally, activate abs by breaking hard on a soft ground and bleed at wheels?