Marlin Oil Seal Vs. OEM oil seal thread

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I cant tell when your joking or not. Forgive me for throwing some info in. The Marlins do seal better just like they claim. But dont have as much defelction due to them being thicker (more suface area). If its set up right, the deflection isnt an issue. The other main reason is the 80 series housing (ball ends) bend fairly easy. This also throws it all out and is noticable during a caster sweep - different cambers. Toyota actually have a special tool they use to check the axle is true.
 
I cant tell when your joking or not. Forgive me for throwing some info in. The Marlins do seal better just like they claim. But dont have as much defelction due to them being thicker (more suface area). If its set up right, the deflection isnt an issue. The other main reason is the 80 series housing (ball ends) bend fairly easy. This also throws it all out and is noticable during a caster sweep - different cambers. Toyota actually have a special tool they use to check the axle is true.

I'm a tech for a local Toyota dealer and I haven't heard of such a tool, do you have a picture of it?
 
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That looks like it's for the toy mini stuff, you can't shim an 80 axle for alignment, only preload, you can only shim it from the top not the bottom
 
Where do you come up with this stuff? Ofcourse you can shim it from the bottom. It's pretty much exactly the same as the description in the link.
 
This thread seems to be circling the drain, but before it does, the shim thing is a moot point. Top or bottom, there is going to be no appreicable difference in centering the knuckle to the axle with 1 shim (yes, both knuckles on my cruiser have one! shim) when the shim is far less than a millimeter.

I guess to keep more on topic, I have had the marlin's in for about 10k now and still going. I am only running 33's and don't wheel my junk that hard though. And not that that is a bunch of miles, but one more data point.
 
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It's just 1 of many elements. And sometimes takes 4 shims to get it right. As mentioned. Adding a part time kit eliminates most leaks anyway. And over filling the diff oil is another part. It's not ment to be filled up to the plug level.
 
As usual, BS.

Marlins work great. The main problem is noone sets their rig up correctly. The total amount/thickness's of shims used, determins the overall knuckle preload. But where they are located (above or below) determins the knuckle/stubaxle/axles possition in relation the the seal. Meaning the same preload is acheived by putting all the shims at the top, or all at the bottom. But it raises or lower the axles possition. And if you think a few mm doesnt make much difference - it does.

Please post the link to the FSM or TSB pages showing the procedure and specs.

... But the factory ones are thin and flimzy during install. And it would be easy to damage them and knock the ring out. ...

Yes, all seals can be somewhat tricky to install. Some suggestions if you have that big of a problem with installation. Pack the area around the garter spring with grease to prevent it moving and make/buy a proper seal install driver.

... The other main reason is the 80 series housing (ball ends) bend fairly easy. ...

In my experience they are pretty tough, would not expect them to be bent from "normal use". All that I have seen that were bent, suffered extreme abuse, (jumped, accident, etc) most had other damage (bent arm(s), spring perch, steering components, etc) or excessive welding heat.

Toyota actually have a special tool they use to check the axle is true.

Please a post link to this tool and the factory procedure for using it. I have never seen or heard of a factory one? Have made them for the early type axle. The main cause of them being bent/warped that I see, is from excessive welding heat, so make them when lots of axle welding is called for in the build.

Its a toyota SST (special service tool). Im not sure if the code is the same for the US. But did find this when I had a quick look. It explains how to set it all up correctly. Starts at page 32

http://www.lukemiller.org/toys/1985_toyota_4wd_front_axle_FSM.pdf

That is referring to the early design axle, doesn't apply to the newer design, like on the '80.
 
... And over filling the diff oil is another part. It's not ment to be filled up to the plug level.

Like this?:confused:

Diff_fill.webp
 
Where do you come up with this stuff? Ofcourse you can shim it from the bottom. It's pretty much exactly the same as the description in the link.

Do you have a part number for any size lower shims on an 80 axle?

US parts books do not list any lower shims only upper shims as pointed out above.

I purchased a set of Marlins seal but lack of suspension/give kept me with OEM.
 
I have talked to Marlin about his seal. They know they have some problems with the 80's. I don't think there is a big enough market for them to spend all the hours going back to figure out why it doesn't work on the 80 axles. Now for the mini truck and pre FJ80 axles, they work great. My friend has prototype 2 and 3 on his 4Runner and it is wheeled hard all year long, dusy ershim, rubicon, swamp lake, mirror lake, coyote lake and anything else you can find in California's Sierra Nevada mountains. If I remember correctly he would have gear oil in his knuckle after one trip using factory seals. After installing these he has not had any problem. I currently run them on my FJ60 with no issues. So if the factory seal works just use it.
 
maybe it's just as easy as part time related it goes ..

in my 60 and 80 are still working good .. have to say both part time, and neither see real much HW ..
 
No 80 series front axle housing is shimmed from the bottom--ever for any worldwide market 80 series.

The factory is a top shim only.

Now, someone might have shimmed an 80 from the bottom--not saying its wrong, but its not set up that way from the factory and there are no part numbers for bottom shims like the earlier pre-1991 axle housings.

That is my only other contribution to this thread.

:))
 
Please report back!!

;)

LOL...I have the Marlins...Probably the only non OEM part I have put on the whole damn truck down to the freakin' replaced vacuum hose. I'm going to be pissed if that's what bites me. 10k and now crossed fingers.
 
Don't make me get out of my chair and spill my drink

Lets keep this on track.

Bigboy - the others are correct in that we can't shim these here. If you have more issues, please PM me. Otherwise, let this thread continue

I also had a similar experiance with the Marlins and went back to OEM. I love Marlin and his products and that type of seal is better for the mini-truck axles. The thread linked above describes that

Your freindly 80's moderator
 
Screw the marlin seals! I put one oem in one side and marlin in the other....just for fun....Well the marlin didnt last more than a couple days. Leaking already. Time to rip it apart and put in an oem. Waste of my time.

Why does Marlin even sells these as an 80 application? Nobody has good luck with them unless part time which 90% or more of the 80's out there are not. Flame over.
 
Screw the marlin seals! I put one oem in one side and marlin in the other....just for fun....Well the marlin didnt last more than a couple days. Leaking already. Time to rip it apart and put in an oem. Waste of my time.

Why does Marlin even sells these as an 80 application? Nobody has good luck with them unless part time which 90% or more of the 80's out there are not. Flame over.

Yeah that sucks. But now you know first hand which one is better. I remember you telling me about it at CMCC.
 

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