FWIW, I absolutely love my ARB drawers, probably one of the best things I've added to my 200. I seem to be in them 2-3 times a day, sometimes more. I added lights inside mine and inside the "wings", which was very challenging, but worth it.
Builds Manglers "Flying Egg" Resto-Build (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter Boston Mangler
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- #163
Got it installed this morning.
After reading Slee’s install instructions, ARBs install instructions and the 4,315 threads on here about them, I came to the conclusion the instructions are utter trash and was way over complicated and confusing as hell for what’s actually going on and what’s needs to be done.
I’d rate this 1.5
if common sense is used vs the trash instructions
After reading Slee’s install instructions, ARBs install instructions and the 4,315 threads on here about them, I came to the conclusion the instructions are utter trash and was way over complicated and confusing as hell for what’s actually going on and what’s needs to be done.
I’d rate this 1.5
if common sense is used vs the trash instructions
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- Thread starter
- #164
Also worth noting…
The instructions, or lack thereof don’t really address how to add support and properly secure the center area when only using one drawer, as it’s not supported by being coupled to the other drawer.
Mine is “good enough for now” with some spacers stuffed under the center area, but I will definitely be looking into a better securing method for the center side of the single drawer and post back when I do.
Also, was at first disappointed how the back was exposed and unfinished looking, but this is actually going to work out perfectly when I add the rest of the sleep system. It will make this a lot easier and cleaner to mate up.
The instructions, or lack thereof don’t really address how to add support and properly secure the center area when only using one drawer, as it’s not supported by being coupled to the other drawer.
Mine is “good enough for now” with some spacers stuffed under the center area, but I will definitely be looking into a better securing method for the center side of the single drawer and post back when I do.
Also, was at first disappointed how the back was exposed and unfinished looking, but this is actually going to work out perfectly when I add the rest of the sleep system. It will make this a lot easier and cleaner to mate up.
That "lip" on the top of the back (front?) wall is actually kinda useful. It's a perfect spot to add nutserts for attaching 3/4" plywood, which sits absolutely flush in line with the drawer deck. I have a 12-circuit fuse panel bolted to the passenger side front, and a custom-built cabinet on the driver's side, with the fridge mount just behind the driver's seat.
When the Saint Bernard came along, I added a platform bed for him, and a divider to keep him safe from stuff flying forward.
When the Saint Bernard came along, I added a platform bed for him, and a divider to keep him safe from stuff flying forward.
- Thread starter
- #167
99.76% of the time I’m a function over fashion guy
But the .24% came out when I got the new tires and wheels. Them inboard of fender lips looked goofy as all hell and was driving my OCD bonkers.
After a bunch of google fu and @TeCKis300 explaining they do ad some handling benefits in certain scenarios, I decided on spacers. Seeing as he tows a huge trailer and wheels the piss out of his truck without issues, that’s good enough for me.
Got the Bora 1”. Installed them and went to local parking lot to check rubbing at full lock fwd and backward and marked what hit and then busted out the multi-tool.
Kept as much as the mudflap as I could to prevent debris and what not building up in the void
After removing the piece below I still get some minor rubbing on the vertical plastic in reverse at full lock. That will be heated and reformed at a later date.
But the .24% came out when I got the new tires and wheels. Them inboard of fender lips looked goofy as all hell and was driving my OCD bonkers.
After a bunch of google fu and @TeCKis300 explaining they do ad some handling benefits in certain scenarios, I decided on spacers. Seeing as he tows a huge trailer and wheels the piss out of his truck without issues, that’s good enough for me.
Got the Bora 1”. Installed them and went to local parking lot to check rubbing at full lock fwd and backward and marked what hit and then busted out the multi-tool.
Kept as much as the mudflap as I could to prevent debris and what not building up in the void
After removing the piece below I still get some minor rubbing on the vertical plastic in reverse at full lock. That will be heated and reformed at a later date.
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- Thread starter
- #168
After trimming and test drive, went to see @dudemancool1904 at Marian Bear for some poser pics.
1000x better IMHO
1000x better IMHO
Yea it looks better. But I can claim forum superiority function over form.
Side note drove to LA and back today. I would easily pull 19-20 mpg on the stock size yoko G056s. Now with the 275/70 coopers I’m down to 16-17 tops. The price you pay to be the king of cars and coffee I guess.
Side note drove to LA and back today. I would easily pull 19-20 mpg on the stock size yoko G056s. Now with the 275/70 coopers I’m down to 16-17 tops. The price you pay to be the king of cars and coffee I guess.
- Thread starter
- #170
Yeah, I haven’t dug Into the actual MPG #s yet
Bigger tires, speedo and odo will be off so harder to calculate accurate MPGs
No idea how similar the systems are between the tundra and the 200 are but when I put 35s on my Tundra at first it seemed I lost 4mpg
But after correcting the speedo (pain in the ass in the Tundra) I only lost 1.5-2mpg. Wasn’t bad
No idea if that’s playing into the #s on the 200 yet though. Need to do more research
However, I ordered a Jewel Encrusted Kings Crown
off Amazon to wear at Cars and Coffee next week. See ya there
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Hey Kevin, what are your thoughts to adding some sort of tie-down to the top of the drawers? I'm so sick of stuff sliding around back there. Needs to stay out of the way when not in use.
There's a thread on here somewhere that tells you how to get rid of the light. It's actually really easy, after you get the connectors apart (hardest part) you simply jumper across the two female contacts with a 2 ohm resistor. Put tape over it to keep it from falling out, done. Tuck it under the carpet.
@bloc showed how he made up a very nice pair of resistors, and i think you can find "kits" out there, but honestly I'm just using them out of the bag, no issues for almost 4 years now. If you PM me your address, I'll toss a few resistors in the mail, I had to buy a big package on Amazon (cheap) but I'll never use them.
bloc
SILVER Star
But I now use the modules linked elsewhere that just plug in.
More info on seat removal here:
200 Series 2nd Row Removal
forum.ih8mud.com
- Thread starter
- #176
View attachment 3763167
But I now use the modules linked elsewhere that just plug in.
More info on seat removal here:
200 Series 2nd Row Removal
Thanks @KLF ans @bloc i just ordered one of Brads dongles.
- Thread starter
- #178
After a couple months of backorder shenanigans the final rubber sway bar bushings parts arrived
Think I might try to tackle this task today depending on if fiddling the KDSS valves is needed
If you’re considering replacing these, order now, one of each took over a month to show up.
Website said “in stock” but was not the case
Anyway…
Think I might try to tackle this task today depending on if fiddling the KDSS valves is needed
If you’re considering replacing these, order now, one of each took over a month to show up.
Website said “in stock” but was not the case
Anyway…
- Thread starter
- #179
Well…
MOST of the swaybar bushings are replaced with new OEM after a month of backorder shenanigans
I’d rate this 3/4 easy peasy
The ones I took out weren’t in that bad of shape:
However, the end bushing of the swaybar itself it absolutely toast. Luckily, bushing is available separately and MIGHT be an easy swap
Test drive shows a little improvement in overall firmness, but not a night and day difference like all the control arms made.
Will investigate swaybar end bushing options.
Worst case, the entire swaybar with bushing Installed is reasonably priced if that’s the only option.
MOST of the swaybar bushings are replaced with new OEM after a month of backorder shenanigans
I’d rate this 3/4
easy peasyThe ones I took out weren’t in that bad of shape:
However, the end bushing of the swaybar itself it absolutely toast. Luckily, bushing is available separately and MIGHT be an easy swap
Test drive shows a little improvement in overall firmness, but not a night and day difference like all the control arms made.
Will investigate swaybar end bushing options.
Worst case, the entire swaybar with bushing Installed is reasonably priced if that’s the only option.
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xeuxaz
SILVER Star
Thanks for posting the complete list. Much appreciated.
