Man, not another fricken tire thread... (1 Viewer)

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Well, I'm looking at getting some new shoes. I'm looking at going to a 35. Either the TSL 15/35 (15" or 16.5" rim) or the TSL/SX 35x15.5 (15" or 16.5" rim).

I'm currently running 33" TSL and love them. So, who is running/ran the SX? How do/did you like them?

Also, I'm going to go with some kind of beadlocks. So, what do you guys think of running a 12" rim? Would 10" be better?

I would like to do a SOA and go with the 38.5x14.5 SX, but the funding just isn't there.

Another reason for new shoes (beside the 33s are getting bald) is that they are (I believe) out of round. I get crazy death wobble if I hit a bump just right. I've replace/fixed/torqued to spec/checked the following:

- all the TRE's,
- new tunion bearings,
- new wheel bearings
- the spring bushings are only 2.5 years old
- no frame cracks that I know of
- I’ve tightened every thing from the steering box to the point were the steering shaft enters the fire wall
- tightened u-bolts to spec
- tightened shackles to spec
- adjusted toe-in to 1/4"
- put in 6* caster shims (in the correct orientation, ie fat end towards the front)

The only thing left is the actual steering box. I did notice some oil under the u-join to box connection.

Ultimately though, I would just like to have taller tires, plus (hopefully) it'll cure my death wobble. Besides, it's a good excuse to tell the wife I need new tires. :D
 
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Sean

Your tires CAN easily get out of round, and no amount of adjustment of balancing can fix the problem once it happens. Toss the old chit and get new ones, and ROTATE YOUR TIRES.

M
 

GLTHFJ60

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Definately get that fixed, because that can cause many other problems if not dealt with.

:beer:
 

esh

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A few of our club members run the SX. Bias-ply is super tough and it seems to hookup well.

If I can wear down my MTRs enough, some day that's what I'm looking to run on the dedicated trail trucks.
 

krzyabncanuck

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I have been running the 33 and 35 SX's since they first came out with them and love them. I run them on 12 inch rims, makes them wear better and are better on them all around.

HTH
 
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Overlord said:
Another reason for new shoes (beside the 33s are getting bald) is that they are (I believe) out of round. I get crazy death wobble if I hit a bump just right. I've replace/fixed/torqued to spec/checked the following:
Ultimately though, I would just like to have taller tires, plus (hopefully) it'll cure my death wobble. Besides, it's a good excuse to tell the wife I need new tires. :D
If new tires does not solve it, put the steering damper from axle to tie rod. I walked the same road not long ago Sean.

I've heard a 2" body lift, with a 2.5" SUA lift will let you clear 35", but have no real world experience with this one.

gb
 
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Greg_B said:
If new tires does not solve it, put the steering damper from axle to tie rod. I walked the same road not long ago Sean.

I've heard a 2" body lift, with a 2.5" SUA lift will let you clear 35", but have no real world experience with this one.

gb
Damper from axle to tie rod and not in the stock location (frame to drag link)?

If the addition 2" BL won't allow them to clear, then I'll go with a longer shackle and trim sheet metal.
 

Mace

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Cut the sheet metal.

35's can be fit on a 2.5" lift if you can cut and weld.

sx's are super tough but won't balance as easily and are a bit onthe rough side.


go 10" rim. 12" beadlock will be a hinderance in the future when you go to a narrower tire and a springover.
 
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Mace said:
Cut the sheet metal.

35's can be fit on a 2.5" lift if you can cut and weld.

sx's are super tough but won't balance as easily and are a bit onthe rough side.


go 10" rim. 12" beadlock will be a hinderance in the future when you go to a narrower tire and a springover.
The BL is the works anyway to help fit sliders.

The front is fine, but how much can one cut in the rear before running into the door? And yes, I can cut and weld. Although I don't have any experience welding sheet metal.

What about boggers or SX in the front and boggers in the rear?
 
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2" body lift, 2" over shackles, 2.5" SUA lift will run 35s just fine with some slight rubbing if you really wheel it. Plan to cut out the front lower portion of the ft fenderwell. In back, the 10" or 8" rim will keep the tyre narrow and help keep it in the wheel well. With the 13.5s I had to cut out the outer lip.


Go 10" or even 8" rims. 12" is just too wide.

I really doubt your wobble has anything to do with tire. I would bet the preload on the trunions is low. I run 12lbs + with 33" or 35" tires.

I have the new TOYO 35x13.50x15 MTs on 8" rims and LOVE them; except for the price!
 
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dd113 said:
2" body lift, 2" over shackles, 2.5" SUA lift will run 35s just fine with some slight rubbing if you really wheel it. Plan to cut out the front lower portion of the ft fenderwell. In back, the 10" or 8" rim will keep the tyre narrow and help keep it in the wheel well. With the 13.5s I had to cut out the outer lip.


Go 10" or even 8" rims. 12" is just too wide.

I really doubt your wobble has anything to do with tire. I would bet the preload on the trunions is low. I run 12lbs + with 33" or 35" tires.

I have the new TOYO 35x13.50x15 MTs on 8" rims and LOVE them; except for the price!
What BS are you running?

To raise the preload, do I add or remove shims?
 
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dd113 said:
2I really doubt your wobble has anything to do with tire. I would bet the preload on the trunions is low. I run 12lbs + with 33" or 35" tires.
dd113, even that did not solve mine. I have it up to 12+ on both sides.

Sean, remove equal amounts top and bottom to keep the axle centered.

Yes on the SD...change of location worked for me...the only thing that did.

hth's

gb
 
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Beleve it or not, the wobble can be caused by either too much toe or not enough toe.

A 1/4 inch toe in 'scratch-sniff'..tad much...

I had a 'drive thru' wobble...appeared at 30ish mph, disappeared at about 50....
decreased my toe-in by 1/4 turn of cross link (the tube between TREs)., tested.
One more shot of 1/4 turn...Gone !
1/4 turn is like a fat 32nd , thin 16th
 
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Less shim more pre load. We need to make sure we are talking about the same wobble. Trunion wobble shows up at most any speed over 20mph and "usually" does not bother you while driving straight or on the hwy. It gets you when you are turning slightly and maybe hit a small bump. The wheels wobble to the point that the only way to regain control is to slow down below 20mph or so. If you get a consistant wobble in one speed range then other factors may be at play. Toe in/out is a big cause of that.

Funny tires will cause some wobble that the SD can help fix.

It is easy to hide a problem in the knuckle with a new SD. I guess that was the point I was failing to make.
 
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dd113 said:
Less shim more pre load. We need to make sure we are talking about the same wobble. Trunion wobble shows up at most any speed over 20mph and "usually" does not bother you while driving straight or on the hwy. It gets you when you are turning slightly and maybe hit a small bump. The wheels wobble to the point that the only way to regain control is to slow down below 20mph or so. If you get a consistant wobble in one speed range then other factors may be at play. Toe in/out is a big cause of that.

Funny tires will cause some wobble that the SD can help fix.

It is easy to hide a problem in the knuckle with a new SD. I guess that was the point I was failing to make.
This is the wobble I'm getting. I'll check the tunion preload. So, in my case, toe isn't a factor or at least not an significant one?
 
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dd113 said:
It is easy to hide a problem in the knuckle with a new SD. I guess that was the point I was failing to make.
Yes, I agree. Sean, do the pre-load thing as well. I had done everything, including new steering shaft u-joints, and tightening the box. My point was "after" you have done everything...if you still have it, moving the SD from the stock location to the axle/tie rod may solve it (or mask it as some prefer).

Actually, thinking about it now I may have found my issue a short while ago. It is fixed now, and I have not removed the damper to see if this was it (truck is down for the count). Another reason not to do a high SUA lift: The inner frame where it is welded to the c-channel right above the front spring solid mount points had started to seperate at the weld. Rewelded and re-enforced now.

So Sean, check that location on your truck. Take a screwdriver to the weld line along the bottom, and make sure it is 100%. I had inspected this area but did not see anything when I 1st started getting it. After a few back to back wheeling trips, I noticed a gap in that location when underneath for maintenance.

hth's

gb
 
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Overlord said:
This is the wobble I'm getting. I'll check the tunion preload. So, in my case, toe isn't a factor or at least not an significant one?
I would not rule out toe in 100%. Usually it is a combo of smaller things. I would get a professional alignment just cuz and see what happens. WHen I hear death wobble and see a list like yours I think trunion barings. I had a whole slew of issues with it at one time. I think Butch Baker sent me down the trunion path and it has fixed many a truck.
 

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