You guys are adventurous !
A lot of 80 owner delete the ABS and feel that there brakes work better.
A lot of 80 owner delete the ABS and feel that there brakes work better.
Builds Mad Max - Another 60 on 80 (plus diesel goodness) (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter lelandEOD
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lelandEOD
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- Thread starter
- #62
Yeah, a lot of 80 owners also drive clapped out trucks with ill maintained brake systems... I should know. I'm one of them.
But, yes, I get it - I wrestled with the decision too. If I don't like it, it's not terribly hard to delete. It's only time and money.
But, yes, I get it - I wrestled with the decision too. If I don't like it, it's not terribly hard to delete. It's only time and money.
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lelandEOD
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- #63
I got 99 problems but a cam ain't one.
I've been toying with problems and solutions for the throttle and cruise control cable management.
The intercooler interferes with the original throttle cam plate. Plus I need a cable input for the cruise control too.
What to do what to do……
I've been toying with problems and solutions for the throttle and cruise control cable management.
The intercooler interferes with the original throttle cam plate. Plus I need a cable input for the cruise control too.
What to do what to do……
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lelandEOD
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- #64
Messing around with the transmission kick down/idle up bracket on the injection pump, I saw promise. Since I don't have an automatic transmission to worry about it seemed like I could somehow use this bracket for throttle control.
Unfortunately, the bracket is designed to pull the kickdown cable when the throttle rolls off rather than opening the throttle.
Dang.
Then, I realized the cable cam can be swapped 180°. Intrigued, I dug around in my old spare parts box and found another kick down bracket and harvested a second cam. Paired up, it seems they will work well for the throttle and cruise control. Win.
Unfortunately, the bracket is designed to pull the kickdown cable when the throttle rolls off rather than opening the throttle.
Dang.
Then, I realized the cable cam can be swapped 180°. Intrigued, I dug around in my old spare parts box and found another kick down bracket and harvested a second cam. Paired up, it seems they will work well for the throttle and cruise control. Win.
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lelandEOD
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- #65
Getting both cables and the idle up diaphragm all working together proved challenging. I went through several iterations before landing on what I believe is the final form. This definitely required a bit of hacking, welding, thinkerin', bending, and cursing.
I will now have to modify the cable lengths to work with the new throttle control plate.
More to come.
I will now have to modify the cable lengths to work with the new throttle control plate.
More to come.
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lelandEOD
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- #67
Likewise, brother!
Tonight I cut up a perfectly good 70-series throttle cable (sorry @bottombracket). Drilled out the crimped holes and wrestling the cable adjuster end from the cable; I used a couple punches to re-swage the adjuster back to a size the cable would slide into... Measure twice; cut once (left enough wiggle room to allow access to the oil filter without a lot of cursing) - then re-crimp and add shrink tube for water resistance. Boom.
Sorted.
The devil is in the details. I love it!
A lesser man would have just had a big ol loop of cable and split shot fishing weights crimped to it to adjust things.
A lesser man would have just had a big ol loop of cable and split shot fishing weights crimped to it to adjust things.
lelandEOD
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- #69
It's all an adventure. What I didn't cover (because I haven't done it yet) is the termination of the now shortened inner cable. Yes, I can just buy a couple of those little aftermarket throttle cable ends and call it a day...
But I may take the time to cast my own like this:
@lelandEOD if you get to doing custom cast ends on the cables, I've got some bicycle cable cutters that cut the cable real nice without fraying it you might like to use... We used to do the same with custom bicycle cables for old school tandem bikes and recumbent bikes back in my bike shop days
lelandEOD
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- #71
More progress. I re-clocked the turbo compressor to point directly at the intercooler.
Similarly, the water inlet pipe was cut and turned to more appropriately point towards the radiator outlet.
The fan shroud looks like it's going to be a nightmare so I'm couching the project for now. Instead, I rebuilt the steering box. (Then I remembered I hate these things too)
Similarly, the water inlet pipe was cut and turned to more appropriately point towards the radiator outlet.
The fan shroud looks like it's going to be a nightmare so I'm couching the project for now. Instead, I rebuilt the steering box. (Then I remembered I hate these things too)
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lelandEOD
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- Thread starter
- #73
Luckily the 60 has only one large fuse box rather than the 80's smaller dash panel with circuits split between two boxes. So, it was just a matter of making sure everything could be migrated to a 60-series box. Easy day. I will make a spit polished .pdf diagram of the new circuit layout when it's all said and done, but for now a hand drawn diagram works just fine.
Pull.
Push.
Record.
Repeat.
Pull.
Push.
Record.
Repeat.
lelandEOD
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- Thread starter
- #74
The only slightly tricky part to this process was changing from the 80-series 30A FLs for the heater and power circuits. The 80 uses male spade terminals while the 60 uses female terminals with the 30A circuit breakers. Luckily, I had a sufficient number of the correct terminals in my spares box.
All Done.
Sorted.
All Done.
Sorted.
lelandEOD
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- Thread starter
- #75
The poor 60's kick panels were never intended to house the computers for ABS, transmission, light retainer, and the number of relays I've stuck to this panel. But I think there is a solution. I will relieve the inner skin to allow the harness to pass through to the door and provide some much needed clearance under the kick panel. But in order to do that, I need to first find a home for the secondary relay panel and the larger computers like ABS and cruise control.
The ABS computer bracket was easy enough to modify and mount in the same(ish) place as on an 80. I cut off the old relay mounting ears and reattached them to work with the new panel.
Here it is tacked in place.
The cruise control computer is being a bugger to fit due to its ungainly size and shape. Some creativity will be required. More to come.
The ABS computer bracket was easy enough to modify and mount in the same(ish) place as on an 80. I cut off the old relay mounting ears and reattached them to work with the new panel.
Here it is tacked in place.
The cruise control computer is being a bugger to fit due to its ungainly size and shape. Some creativity will be required. More to come.
If that was any sexier this thread would need a NSFW warning in the title! Killer work as usual, dude.
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That is nice work on the fuse block. I also think you’re a madman for keeping the ABS 
lelandEOD
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- Thread starter
- #78
I know I know... I'm waffling on it too. But I've already done most of the work to install it. ...but I hear the first Gen ABS is pretty awful even when fully functional. ...I flip flop on this like every other day.That is nice work on the fuse block. I also think you’re a madman for keeping the ABS
PLEASE post up your thoughts on the ABS after the install. I have been toying with the idea of installing the 80 series ABS into my 60 as well and youre the first person ive seen do it. Are you able to run it standalone with just the ABS Computer?
lelandEOD
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- #80
Ok, minor update time.
I've pretty much finished mock up of the intercooler. This is the third PDI intercooler I've bought for a Landcruiser and it will be the last. I would've been money ahead had I just bought a core, some end tanks and a bunch of pre-pent mandrel sections. Reclocking the turbo really helped simplify the routing:
I've pretty much finished mock up of the intercooler. This is the third PDI intercooler I've bought for a Landcruiser and it will be the last. I would've been money ahead had I just bought a core, some end tanks and a bunch of pre-pent mandrel sections. Reclocking the turbo really helped simplify the routing:
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