Builds Mad Max - Another 60 on 80 (plus diesel goodness) (2 Viewers)

[timexlost]

I found more damage on the firewall from the V8 install. Apparently someone hammered it to clear the valve covers. I cut patch panels from another donor body to repair. Getting all the asphalt sound deadening off will be a lot of fun.

if you have a local source for Dry Ice it'll help greatly in removing the sound deadening.

 

[Old Nick]

if you have a local source for Dry Ice it'll help greatly in removing the sound deadening.

x2 ^

Dry ice makes a terrible, messy job easy and relatively quick and with very little mess/clean-up required.

 

[lelandEOD]

if you have a local source for Dry Ice it'll help greatly in removing the sound deadening.

Yup, I've read about it; just not tried it myself just yet but it'll have to happen for this project!

 

[lelandEOD]

At night, this interpretive art scene can be seen from one of the more busy intersections in town.

 

[lelandEOD]

Frame is cut, internally boxed, and shortened!

...how many 'sh*tshow Cruiser projects can you fit in one photo? Several, apparently....

I opted to section the frame in a slightly different way than I've seen in other threads. I sectioned 4.65275" from each side of the frame halves but alternated the cuts on the inner and outer frame C-channels. This allowed me to 'interleave' the frame and weld along the overlapping C-channels which will hopefully add to the strength of the joint.

...Test fitting:

I also added a 1/4" box section to the inside of the frame for added support of the join which were plug welded. I will fill and blend them so you can't even see they there.

Now I need to flip it over to do the bottom then work on the LCA frame buckets.

...

 

[Old Nick]

Frame is cut, internally boxed, and shortened!

...how many 'sh*tshow Cruiser projects can you fit in one photo? Several, apparently....
View attachment 3819381

I opted to section the frame in a slightly different way than I've seen in other threads. I sectioned 4.65275" from each side of the frame halves but alternated the cuts on the inner and outer frame C-channels. This allowed me to 'interleave' the frame and weld along the overlapping C-channels which will hopefully add to the strength of the joint.

View attachment 3819379View attachment 3819380


...Test fitting:
View attachment 3819377View attachment 3819378

I also added a 1/4" box section to the inside of the frame for added support of the join which were plug welded. I will fill and blend them so you can't even see they there.

View attachment 3819382View attachment 3819384


Now I need to flip it over to do the bottom then work on the LCA frame buckets.

View attachment 3819383
...

That is beautiful and inspirational work. Stoked to see where you take this build.

 

[lelandEOD]

Welp, I was just starting to crack open the champagne to toast the first major milestone in this project when suddenly the record I had blaring Eye of the Tiger scratched loudly.



In the resulting emptiness this mortal coil seemingly fell away and what remained could only be described as semi-conscious thought drifting in the perpetual void; shapeless; without definition; vapid; banal banality. Then without warning, a blinding moment of equally instantaneous and brutal realization: all that will ever be revealed to Man met within me and, there, alone and shaking, I could only croak just above a pitiful childish whisper, "**** me sideways; that's not right."

...I'm all but certain I need to fit a radiator in there somewhere.



Uuuuuuuh..... crap.

 

[reklund5]

A little work with a sledgehammer and it'll slide right in

 

[lelandEOD]

Remember, Ryan - ex-bomb techs don't solve problems with sledgehammers.

 

[reklund5]

Remember, Ryan - ex-bomb techs don't solve problems with sledgehammers.

#overkillisunderrated

 

[fl4031003]

I had to move my motor mounts back two inches to make the 1FZ fit correctly in my 80 chassis.

 

[Old Nick]

That is beautiful and inspirational work. Stoked to see where you take this build.

I never should have posted that... lol. Murphy is always afoot.

Still digging what you're doing and enjoying watching the problems get solved as they develop. Seriously considering something similar.

 

[cruisermatt]

can I make the recommendation you spend $400 and get yourself a set of ten Hyperlight bay lights, and remove all that old drop-ceiling hangers? It would completely transform that shop space.

 

[lelandEOD]

can I make the recommendation you spend $400 and get yourself a set of ten Hyperlight bay lights, and remove all that old drop-ceiling hangers? It would completely transform that shop space.

That shop space is a very long story. Short answer is the building belongs to a friend who's letting me use it as a temporary automotive space. We put up a massive two post lift but otherwise there is basically nothing in that part of the building. So it's all rolling tool chests, folding tables, and extension cords. ...hardly a shop at all. But hey, a space is a space when it comes to lift access.

 

[lelandEOD]

I had to move my motor mounts back two inches to make the 1FZ fit correctly in my 80 chassis.

Boy I wish I had run across a frame swap thread that used a 1FZ/1HD engine. ...would have saved myself a lot of hassle. I get basically everyone who's done this decided to commit their soul to eternal damnation by running a LS in a Toyota. I will need to move this engine back about 4.5" to put it back against the firewall. Not really a big deal.

 

[lelandEOD]

Ok, so I'd like some feedback here. Since I wasn't afraid to clearance the area where the coil buckets, shock bolts, and frame rails interfered with the body, I was able to get the position of the body relative to the frame pretty dang close to where I think they should be. I keep reading threads where others found their 60 body sat 3-4" higher than needed from the front and rear frame horns. I'm guessing this was due to unwillingness to do dirty things to the floor pan like I did. Take a look at this and tell me what you think...

The front valance panel is about an inch from the frame:

For comparison, here's the gap before I relieved the floor of the coil bucket/frame interference:

And it's the same in the rear. I have positioned the body mounts to give about 1" of clearance between the frame and body pinch weld. I *think this is pretty dang close to perfect.

^^^ You can see how the frame needs to be lengthened here. The body mount brackets are hanging off the back edge of the frame rails. I tacked them in place just to get the reference points nailed down.


Interestingly, I have been able to figure out how to re-use at least three sets of the original 80-series body mounts so far. I'm hoping to keep the number of scratch-made mounts to a minimum to keep everything looking as close to factory as possible.

Where I need input right now is with the rear frame/crossmember protrusion. Here are a couple photos showing how much the rear frame crossmember protrudes behind the body. I know this needs to be extended, but I'm unsure by how much? I have a good friend @reklund5 who just cut the rear of his frame to fit a 4x4Labs bumper and he's been gracious enough to offer me the bit he chopped off. I'm thinking I could probably use it to extend the frame length to better fit a future bumper.

@ceylonfj40nut @TRAIL TAILOR @AcroSteve and others... what did you do for the rear bumper attachments? Thoughts here?

 

[Broski]

Ok, so I'd like some feedback here. Since I wasn't afraid to clearance the area where the coil buckets, shock bolts, and frame rails interfered with the body, I was able to get the position of the body relative to the frame pretty dang close to where I think they should be. I keep reading threads where others found their 60 body sat 3-4" higher than needed from the front and rear frame horns. I'm guessing this was due to unwillingness to do dirty things to the floor pan like I did. Take a look at this and tell me what you think...

The front valance panel is about an inch from the frame:
View attachment 3821585

For comparison, here's the gap before I relieved the floor of the coil bucket/frame interference:
View attachment 3821598


And it's the same in the rear. I have positioned the body mounts to give about 1" of clearance between the frame and body pinch weld. I *think this is pretty dang close to perfect.

View attachment 3821590

View attachment 3821591
^^^ You can see how the frame needs to be lengthened here. The body mount brackets are hanging off the back edge of the frame rails. I tacked them in place just to get the reference points nailed down.


Interestingly, I have been able to figure out how to re-use at least three sets of the original 80-series body mounts so far. I'm hoping to keep the number of scratch-made mounts to a minimum to keep everything looking as close to factory as possible.

View attachment 3821587


Where I need input right now is with the rear frame/crossmember protrusion. Here are a couple photos showing how much the rear frame crossmember protrudes behind the body. I know this needs to be extended, but I'm unsure by how much? I have a good friend @reklund5 who just cut the rear of his frame to fit a 4x4Labs bumper and he's been gracious enough to offer me the bit he chopped off. I'm thinking I could probably use it to extend the frame length to better fit a future bumper.

View attachment 3821588View attachment 3821589

Good job on getting the body lower looks way better then the ones that are up the extra high.
Hard to say on the frame extension are you going to run an after market bumper or a OEM one ?

 

[lelandEOD]

Good job on getting the body lower looks way better then the ones that are up the extra high.
Had to say on the frame extension are you going to run an after market bumper or a OEM one ?

I wouldn't be opposed to running a factory bumper in the rear, if one could be found and made to work. I wish I had one handy so I could better vizualize how to make it fit. I think too there are differences between the 60 and 62 bumper... and probably attachments?

The only aftermarket bumpers I know I really like on the 60-Series are from Trail Taylor and Dissent Offroad. I don't think either would be interested in the headaches associated to helping some psycho adapt their 60-Series bumper offerings to an 80-Series frame.

Either way, I don't plan to run a swingout on this truck so I am going for a subdued/unassuming look to the bumpers. Thanks for the feedback!

 

[ceylonfj40nut]

Did lukes 4x4 bumper. Its in my thread.

 

[ceylonfj40nut]

Boy I wish I had run across a frame swap thread that used a 1FZ/1HD engine. ...would have saved myself a lot of hassle. I get basically everyone who's done this decided to commit their soul to eternal damnation by running a LS in a Toyota. I will need to move this engine back about 4.5" to put it back against the firewall. Not really a big deal.

I love living in Hell. I get places faster with an LS. Somethings you may not understand living in Nevada. It takes me a while to get out of Texas. FWIW, my choice was the flip side of the reliability coin. Availability. Live once. Make memories. Carry on.