Build Mad Max - Another 60 on 80 (plus diesel goodness)

[lelandEOD]

PLEASE post up your thoughts on the ABS after the install. I have been toying with the idea of installing the 80 series ABS into my 60 as well and youre the first person ive seen do it. Are you able to run it standalone with just the ABS Computer?

I'm running the whole 80-series harness with the un-needed circuits removed. It would certainly be possible to just remove the ABS system from an 80 and carefully pick out the ABS parts. I kind of don't think the system is worth the hassle... but... I'm in too deep, man.. I'm in too deep.

 

[lelandEOD]

PDI includes some very rudimentary mounting brackets. I decided to make my own. I also opted to add some vibration isolators while I was at it. I got lucky when I picked up some A/C condenser mounting brackets on Amazon. They didn't suit my needs for the A/C condenser but the worked really well as intercooler brackets.

Labeled L and R.

Spacers needed. Whacked these up on the lathe.

To get the hole just right, I turned this bolt into a pointed stud and gave it a whack.

Welded the spacers onto the rears and done.

...I'm going to leave the tabs hanging down on the bottoms of these to zip tie winch wires, foglights... or whatever, way on down the road.

 

[lelandEOD]

I still haven't figured out what the hell I'm going to do with the fan shroud. It's pretty much the last thing left on my engine compartment mock up checklist. Whenever I get completely gridlocked on a specific point, I tend to move on to something completely different.


And now for something completely different. One of the details I really wanted to get right are the warning lights... Since I'm using the 80-series harness and whatnot, I need most of the 80's original warning lights (plus those from a Landcruiser diesel, e.g. sedimenter, brake vacuum, and glow).

A little cluster rape yielded the needed parts:

After some 5th grade-level tinkercad youtube tutorials, I put my 5th grade cad skills to work. I've knocked up some prototype warning light holders which mate to the 62 cluster facia.

I need to tweak the finished product and probably have them professionally printed (once I figure out how to do a quadralateral....).
I'm still on the fence when it comes to the actual lights. I've got plenty protoboard and LEDs laying around. I may also try to make a factory bulb holder... I I need to figure out how to to be continued...

 

[BurntToast]

I still haven't figured out what the hell I'm going to do with the fan shroud. It's pretty much the last thing left on my engine compartment mock up checklist. Whenever I get completely gridlocked on a specific point, I tend to move on to something completely different.


And now for something completely different. One of the details I really wanted to get right are the warning lights... Since I'm using the 80-series harness and whatnot, I need most of the 80's original warning lights (plus those from a Landcruiser diesel, e.g. sedimenter, brake vacuum, and glow).

View attachment 3915187

A little cluster rape yielded the needed parts:
View attachment 3915179

After some 5th grade-level tinkercad youtube tutorials, I put my 5th grade cad skills to work. I've knocked up some prototype warning light holders which mate to the 62 cluster facia.
View attachment 3915181View attachment 3915182View attachment 3915184

View attachment 3915185View attachment 3915186

I'm still on the fence when it comes to the actual lights. I've got plenty protoboard and LEDs laying around. I may also try to make a factory bulb holder... to be continued...

Nice work, a little PCB and some light pipes or printed parts to prevent light bleed would work great

 

[lelandEOD]

And, last but not least. I spent all morning knocking out this little doo-dad on a mill.

I made a 1.5mm and 2mm cable diameter mold.

Was hoping the end result would look something like this:

I tested it out with some lead free silver solder and had trouble getting it to drop to the bottom of the mold. But I hope to improve with some different materials.

 

[BMThiker]

And, last but not least. I spent all morning knocking out this little doo-dad on a mill.

View attachment 3915201View attachment 3915203View attachment 3915204

I made a 1.5mm and 2mm cable diameter mold.
View attachment 3915207


Was hoping the end result would look something like this:
View attachment 3915213





I tested it out with some lead free silver solder and had trouble getting it to drop to the bottom of the mold. But I hope to improve with some different materials. View attachment 3915214View attachment 3915215

Are you preheating your mold?

 

[dbbowen]

I'm running the whole 80-series harness with the un-needed circuits removed. It would certainly be possible to just remove the ABS system from an 80 and carefully pick out the ABS parts. I kind of don't think the system is worth the hassle... but... I'm in too deep, man.. I'm in too deep.

Damn i was hoping it might be worth the hassle to add even a little bit more safey to the 60 haha That was the plan, just pick out the essential parts from the 80 and stash them somewhere in the 60 dash somewhere

I still haven't figured out what the hell I'm going to do with the fan shroud. It's pretty much the last thing left on my engine compartment mock up checklist. Whenever I get completely gridlocked on a specific point, I tend to move on to something completely different.


And now for something completely different. One of the details I really wanted to get right are the warning lights... Since I'm using the 80-series harness and whatnot, I need most of the 80's original warning lights (plus those from a Landcruiser diesel, e.g. sedimenter, brake vacuum, and glow).

View attachment 3915187

A little cluster rape yielded the needed parts:
View attachment 3915179

After some 5th grade-level tinkercad youtube tutorials, I put my 5th grade cad skills to work. I've knocked up some prototype warning light holders which mate to the 62 cluster facia.
View attachment 3915181View attachment 3915182View attachment 3915184

View attachment 3915185View attachment 3915186

I need to tweak the finished product and probably have them professionally printed (once I figure out how to do a quadralateral....).
I'm still on the fence when it comes to the actual lights. I've got plenty protoboard and LEDs laying around. I may also try to make a factory bulb holder... I I need to figure out how to to be continued...

Dude if this is elementary level, my diff lock indicators that i made have got to be like toddler class at daycare hah. I didnt even think about robbing an 80 series cluster for their indicators

 

[lelandEOD]

Are you preheating your mold?

I'm experimenting. I really don't know what I'm doing but have plenty cable to play with til I find something that seems to work. From what I've seen on the web, everyone recommends packing the mold with flux then stuffing small snipped pieces of lead into the cavity. If I pre-heat the mold, I don't know how I'd get the flux in the mold.

How would you do it?

 

[BMThiker]

I'm experimenting. I really don't know what I'm doing but have plenty cable to play with til I find something that seems to work. From what I've seen on the web, everyone recommends packing the mold with flux then stuffing small snipped pieces of lead into the cavity. If I pre-heat the mold, I don't know how I'd get the flux in the mold.

How would you do it?

Maybe change the mold design so that it doesn't drop out the other side. Preheat the mold to ensure the alloy doesn't create voids. I think your alloy is cooling too quickly as it's being poured in. Look at old musket ball molds for inspiration. You may need to rotate your cylinder cavity and pour in from a sprue opposite where the cable is held in place. So in the example image below, your cable would be inserted into the nose of the bullet through a small hole in the bottom of the mold and your pour in from the top. Trim off the sprue once solidified.

 

[lelandEOD]

Thanks for the ideas!

 

[cruisermatt]

This is some really really cool stuff.

 

[lelandEOD]

Wins. I'm happy (for now) with the outcome from both experiments.

I will continue fussing with the warning light; I know I need to tone down the LED output just a bit and want to follow the contours of the factory dash facia openings a little better.

Also, I *think I figured out the trick to getting the solder to drop into the bottom of the mold. Basically I had to cold pack both sides of the mold with chunks of solder. I used a 4.5 mm punch and hammer to gently compress the silver solder into the void along with the flux. After applying heat for a period of time I noticed the lead began to drop/hop as the flux vaporized into gas and worked its way up and out.
I think the trick is to continue applying heat until the majority of that offgassing dissipates which probably means the lead has dropped to the bottom of the mold.

 

[cps432]

Badass thread. Good work!

 

[tmxmotorsports]

This is some really really cool stuff.

Definitely

 

[LazarusTaxa]

How's this build going? I found your thread while researching my own 60 series 1HD-T swap and it's amazing.

I'm gonna be installing a Gturbo as well (debating between G333 and G380) and considering PDI intercooler. Why didn't you like the PDI? Since they don't make a 60/HDT-specific kit, I was going to buy just the 60 core from them and then figure out the piping on my own.

 

[Swissmat]

@lelandEOD what solution did you come up with for the number 4 body mounts???

 

[Swissmat]

Ok, so I'd like some feedback here. Since I wasn't afraid to clearance the area where the coil buckets, shock bolts, and frame rails interfered with the body, I was able to get the position of the body relative to the frame pretty dang close to where I think they should be. I keep reading threads where others found their 60 body sat 3-4" higher than needed from the front and rear frame horns. I'm guessing this was due to unwillingness to do dirty things to the floor pan like I did. Take a look at this and tell me what you think...

The front valance panel is about an inch from the frame:
View attachment 3821585

For comparison, here's the gap before I relieved the floor of the coil bucket/frame interference:
View attachment 3821598


And it's the same in the rear. I have positioned the body mounts to give about 1" of clearance between the frame and body pinch weld. I *think this is pretty dang close to perfect.

View attachment 3821590

View attachment 3821591
^^^ You can see how the frame needs to be lengthened here. The body mount brackets are hanging off the back edge of the frame rails. I tacked them in place just to get the reference points nailed down.


Interestingly, I have been able to figure out how to re-use at least three sets of the original 80-series body mounts so far. I'm hoping to keep the number of scratch-made mounts to a minimum to keep everything looking as close to factory as possible.

View attachment 3821587


Where I need input right now is with the rear frame/crossmember protrusion. Here are a couple photos showing how much the rear frame crossmember protrudes behind the body. I know this needs to be extended, but I'm unsure by how much? I have a good friend @reklund5 who just cut the rear of his frame to fit a 4x4Labs bumper and he's been gracious enough to offer me the bit he chopped off. I'm thinking I could probably use it to extend the frame length to better fit a future bumper.

View attachment 3821588View attachment 3821589

@ceylonfj40nut @TRAIL TAILOR @AcroSteve and others... what did you do for the rear bumper attachments? Thoughts here?

@lelandEOD Any chance you have some photos of how you relieved the coil bucket/floor area? I'd be curious to see the "dirty things" ..

 

[ceylonfj40nut]

Boy I wish I had run across a frame swap thread that used a 1FZ/1HD engine. ...would have saved myself a lot of hassle. I get basically everyone who's done this decided to commit their soul to eternal damnation by running a LS in a Toyota. I will need to move this engine back about 4.5" to put it back against the firewall. Not really a big deal.

Hell is a nice place with an LS.