LXColorado Builds the Mako (1 Viewer)

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Installed 315/75/16 KM3's! After losing a bead on Bunce Hill Road on my 18's, I decided it was time for me to go back to 16" wheels. I love the look of the 18" TRD pro wheels, but they really weren't conducive to how I'm using the truck.

Initial impression: These things are big! It's really a ~34.3" tire. I clear the pinch welds at full lock, but will still grind them down for peace of mind. I'm not running spacers, and clear the UCA by about ~1/2". I can certainly feel the weight over the 33"s I had - nothing horrendous, but noticeable. The KM3's aren't too much louder than my 50-60% tread KO2's, but definitely more rolling resistance, as to be expected. Road driving isn't that much worse than my 33" KO2's they replaced. I'm sure more aggressive M/T's are worse :meh:

I'll be taking them off-road soon, so stayed tuned for pics and impressions.

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@LXColorado Looks great. Where did you source the ARB turn signals in LED? And if you go down to 15 psi for off roading, do you still need to mess with the pinch welds? I always air down and it would be great to have data on how tall and wide the tire is after being aired down. I am going back to 16's as well.
 
Installed 315/75/16 KM3's! After losing a bead on Bunce Hill Road on my 18's, I decided it was time for me to go back to 16" wheels. I love the look of the 18" TRD pro wheels, but they really weren't conducive to how I'm using the truck.

Initial impression: These things are big! It's really a ~34.3" tire. I clear the pinch welds at full lock, but will still grind them down for peace of mind. I'm not running spacers, and clear the UCA by about ~1/2". I can certainly feel the weight over the 33"s I had - nothing horrendous, but noticeable. The KM3's aren't too much louder than my 50-60% tread KO2's, but definitely more rolling resistance, as to be expected. Road driving isn't that much worse than my 33" KO2's they replaced. I'm sure more aggressive M/T's are worse :meh:

I'll be taking them off-road soon, so stayed tuned for pics and impressions.

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I was so close to getting some of these, but held of because I learned they do not come in white walls. they look awesome though. I still might have to go this route.
 
@LXColorado Looks great. Where did you source the ARB turn signals in LED? And if you go down to 15 psi for off roading, do you still need to mess with the pinch welds? I always air down and it would be great to have data on how tall and wide the tire is after being aired down. I am going back to 16's as well.

It came in Slee's replacement ARB fog light bracket, but it's exactly what @bamabrock linked!

You'll want to flatten the pinch weld, regardless. I wasn't rubbing during normal driving, but I did it anyway for offroading (glad I did) Airing down to 15 psi doesn't affect the front/back diameter of the tire, and it'll still rub the pinch weld. It's a very easy mod. Just get a big hammer and start pounding it towards the engine. No need to cut anything. Just make sure you spray paint the bare metal after. For how tall the tire is, my only data is at 20 psi. I'll post pics of how it stuffs, but my guess is it'd be like stuffing a fully inflated 33". Overall, pleasantly surprised with how much tire actually fits in the wheel well. I was only able to rub the rears on the fender well, and it took some pretty good flex to do it. On my next outing, I'm going to rub the fronts to see exactly what it takes, and where it does.
 
I was so close to getting some of these, but held of because I learned they do not come in white walls. they look awesome though. I still might have to go this route.

It really is a shame. It would've been perfect with white letters! I don't have many miles/days on them. What really pushed me towards the KM3 was Andrew's review on them. He switched to KM3's from KO2's. Video of review:

 
Quick run up Mt. Herman to test flex/stuff... I was unable to rub the front tires, but I'm determined to next time (really want to see where, and how, they rub). I was able to get the rears to rub when I reversed onto the same rock - but it took some serious flexing/stuffing to do so. Overall, I'm pleasently surprised with how much articulation I'm able to achieve with the 315's!
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Some timbren extended bump stops will fix that rubbing in the rear. Not cheap at about $210 a pair. But worth it if you are going to be wheeling regularly.
 
@LXColorado You don't have any rubbing on the frame at full lock in the front? I have the Pro Comp MT2s in the 315/75R16 variety just because according to tiresize.com they are some of the narrowest in the size at 11.7''. Somehow one side rubbed on the front UCA but the other didn't. One of my turn stops came out, so that side rubs on the frame, but I don't think the other does. I am surprised the KM3s don't rub at full lock. I compared a 315 KO2 to the pro comps (both mounted) and the pro comp's were noticeably narrower. At full stuff in the rear I have some rubbing on the upper frame rail on one side but I did not notice it on the other. I ask because I would like to go with a different brand of 35s next time, but don't want to use spacers. Going from 33'' ATs to 35'' MTs made a huge off-road performance difference, but I only think they're the right tire for most 100 series owners.
 
What a build! Tasteful, professional, wonderful. I don’t know where else you’ll go from here. It’s 100 perfect!

Slap a red “Search & Rescue” sticker on the side rear window and I’d fully believe this is a government vehicle. :steer:
 
@LXColorado You don't have any rubbing on the frame at full lock in the front? I have the Pro Comp MT2s in the 315/75R16 variety just because according to tiresize.com they are some of the narrowest in the size at 11.7''. Somehow one side rubbed on the front UCA but the other didn't. One of my turn stops came out, so that side rubs on the frame, but I don't think the other does. I am surprised the KM3s don't rub at full lock. I compared a 315 KO2 to the pro comps (both mounted) and the pro comp's were noticeably narrower. At full stuff in the rear I have some rubbing on the upper frame rail on one side but I did not notice it on the other. I ask because I would like to go with a different brand of 35s next time, but don't want to use spacers. Going from 33'' ATs to 35'' MTs made a huge off-road performance difference, but I only think they're the right tire for most 100 series owners.
BFGs KM3s are known to run small. The 315/75 R 16 is 34.6" tall by 12.3" wide
 
@LXColorado You don't have any rubbing on the frame at full lock in the front? I have the Pro Comp MT2s in the 315/75R16 variety just because according to tiresize.com they are some of the narrowest in the size at 11.7''. Somehow one side rubbed on the front UCA but the other didn't. One of my turn stops came out, so that side rubs on the frame, but I don't think the other does. I am surprised the KM3s don't rub at full lock. I compared a 315 KO2 to the pro comps (both mounted) and the pro comp's were noticeably narrower. At full stuff in the rear I have some rubbing on the upper frame rail on one side but I did not notice it on the other. I ask because I would like to go with a different brand of 35s next time, but don't want to use spacers. Going from 33'' ATs to 35'' MTs made a huge off-road performance difference, but I only think they're the right tire for most 100 series owners.

Specific maneuvers on pavement, I did have some rubbing. I hit the pinch welds back and haven't had an issue since (on the fronts). The rears rub the inside when I really stuff them. But, @uzj100 is correct, BFG's tend to run small.
 
Plumbed 4 air couplers to each corner. I am contemplating a full OBA system with an air tank, but don't really see the need for one yet. Eventually, I'll get some lockers thrown on, and I'll have to deal with linking the locker system to the current 4-way manifold -- cross that bridge when I get to it. Anyone running an air tank, and find it necessary? My other concern is: I'd like to add an auxiliary fuel tank where the spare used to be, and I don't think there's room for an aux tank and air tank. I'll add a parts list for this mod, if anyone is interested.



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@uzj100 @LXColorado I understand that BFGs run small, but found it hard to believe that on full lock in the front you aren't rubbing on the frame rail because my pro comps are listed as 11.7" wide and come extremely close. I have spent countless hours on TireSize.com - Compare Tire Sizes, Specs, Prices & more finding tires 34''+ that would potentially work for the 100. I also remember hearing people talk about getting rubbing in the front with both the KM3s and K02s in the 315/75R16 variety but maybe that was just on the pinch weld and not on the frame. I didn't have to beat the pinch weld for my pro comps, only had to trim the plastic, so they definitely run small. Thanks for the feedback as I would rather run another tire like the KM3, but thought that I would've needed spacers up front to prevent excessive rubbing. Although, next time I will probably go with 35x10.5R16 Super Swamper Radials if I am not DDing my cruiser. Keep up the nice build :cheers:
 
that red pinstriping is SEXY
 
Updated the OBA sytem. Manifold in the engine has a universal coupler, just in case someone else needs a fill. The line going below the tee redirects to a 4-port manifold that splits to 4 tubes holding the recoil hoses. The line that come through the tee goes through the firewall to another manifold inside the cabin. From the interior manifold, I have a ball valve to control deflating, and the compressor switch to control inflating. The interior manifold also has a pressure gauge, so I can control the pressure of my tires from the cabin. The thought process behind this is two-fold: First, so I never have to worry about packing a hose for inflating/deflating again (saves space in the cargo area), and; secondly, I do a lot of snow wheeling and will be nice to deflate and inflate from the comforts of the cabin - it will help in inclement weather, as well. Lastly, this is just a proof of concept. Right now, the tubes are PVC and held on via metal clamps. The final version will be thick stainless steel tubing welded to the sliders. Or, if I can find a smaller diameter recoil hose, I will weld it above the slider connecting bridges. Video of OBA in use
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Added front and rear mud flaps. Those with Slee rear bumpers, you can cut and punch holes into the mud flaps, and use the existing rear bumper bolts for a temporary fix. I like the old defender rear mud flap look, so that was what I was going for here - of course, they are also functional. I'm going to a fabricator next week to think of a bracket system for the front and rear. I'd like the bracket to be a robust one-and-done item, with the ability to easily replace the mud flaps as needed from rock crawling/abuse. The mud flaps I purchased are super cheap, and have no problem replacing those as needed.

And lastly, I finally got around to installing the dual (four total upfront) USB ports on the international Land Cruiser piece (instead of the cigarette lighter and tray one). I linked the left USB port to the main battery, and the right USB port to the Aux. battery, because they also show voltage -- just another redundancy to show how the batteries are holding up/charging. Eventually there will be a rocker panel in between the USB ports for lockers, lights, etc.

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