LX570 Running Board Removal (2 Viewers)

[Chocolate]

I would say that unless you were and EXPERT and were looking for it, there is no reason to use the TLC trim piece. Looks fine.

View attachment 1673030

 

[hickuptruck]

With that design, doesn't take much to nick the AHC while the rockers are protected. Hmm, AHC globes getting damaged by rocks causing suspension failure or rocker damage....I'd rather have some beat rocker imo.

 

[grinchy]

So I finished up the running board / side step delete today on the drivers' side. Took about an hour.
Learnings - mark your cut line. Really. I didn't and got a bit wavy. Had to glue in a section. Since it's black, sharpie was a good fix. Still looks fine from 5 feet, and it'll be behind a slider in a couple weeks.

I cut the front on this one right on the existing arc in the trim piece. It looks a tiny bit nicer. I also contoured on the outward side (inside the mud flap edge) to add more strength there (keeping the 90 deg in the trim.

Quick synopsis. Pry/pull off the grip trim. Pop the rivet. Unscrew the 3 10mm bolts. Go under, unplug the lights (hardest part of the job if you can cut straight), pull the six 12mm bolts. Remove the front mud flap and rear screw (30 torx). Open the doors, pull off the trim piece. If it hangs up go back under and wiggle until free.
Now flip it over, pry out like 30 tabs, pull out the light/step/brackets.
Then mark and saw. Don't lose any trim pegs. Put on a fresh double sided tape in back and remount.

 

[PhysicsHammer]

following this thread.. I am going to be in the market for an LX570 and would want sliders.. and they would definitely need to cover the AHC components unless there is some good reason not to

 

[Jefferson100LX]

Out of the horses ass. We have the sliders in stock. Right now we are finalizing installation instructions how to fit them on both the 200 and the LX570. As soon as they are done, we will start shipping.

 

[grinchy]

I'm on the slee back order list.

 

[Oakleyguy]

@Cliffordbf

 

[milemarker60]

In case anyone else is trimming their 570 steps instead of buying LC rocker covers I performed the task a bit differently than mentioned above. Basically the same process but instead of removing the painted step shell and dealing with the threshold plates and all those brittle tabs, I removed all the associated parts and cut the waste off while still mounted to the rig. Once you’ve popped the tread cover, removed the bolts and rivet hidden underneath, you can pull out the rest of the black plastic liner buy simply prying the outside tabs where they lock into the outside of the painted shell that is going to be removed then the whole assembly will pull out of the shell. Makes it very easy to maintain the sight picture you want for cutting off the unneeded shell. In my pic, you’ll notice my cut left a bit of the curvature where the rockers turn into the step leaving a visible shadow line on the ends. Now that I have the Slee sliders mounted up, I do plan to trim just a bit higher to remove that shadow line. Really didn’t notice it until I looked at the pic.

BTW, the Slee sliders were super easy to install and only required one nutzert to be inserted into an already vacant frame hole on the driver’s side as the rest of the hardware attaches to existing weld nuts in the frame. No special tools needed, just a drill to enlarge the frame hole for the nutzert and a simple diy nutzert tool. If you haven’t installed one of these before it’s super simple and plenty of pics online. Just source a bolt the size of the nutzert, a nut larger than the bolt and a lock washer. Place the oversized nut on the bolt then the lock washer then thread all the way into the nutzert capturing all the threads. Push assembly into hole, put a wrench on the oversized nut to hold in place and start torqueing down the bolt and it will pull and expand quickly into the hole. I use my 3/8 Impact driver but can easily be done with a ratchet.

 

[grinchy]

Oh to have some sliders and not have to keep chasing them.
Looks nice @milemarker60

 

[Quinletc]

Following. Has anyone addressed the issue of the AHC globes being exposed from the bottom?

 

[tbisaacs]

Following. Has anyone addressed the issue of the AHC globes being exposed from the bottom?

@mawlr 's SEMA build has some LX-specific sliders by CBI that are fully boxed in on the bottom. No word when you can buy them yet.

 

[raincityrider]

I kept the running boards as they are because they're going back on when I sell. Most buyers would want them or a proper slider step. They are a $500+ set to replace.

By the way, total weight of the both side steps with hardware? 27.5 pounds. Flimsy plastic with a small metal bracket.

Going to smooth out the metal, black it out with plastidip and put some POR-15 on the mini sliders.

Has anyone tried using LC200 trim piece so you don't have to cut the running boards?

 

[tbisaacs]

Has anyone tried using LC200 trim piece so you don't have to cut the running boards?

They will bolt right up - but are 200-300 per side.

 

[raincityrider]

They will bolt right up - but are 200-300 per side.

I just thought to ask incase folks want to be able to reinstall stock runners for resale or something.

 

[loop737]

Has anyone tried using LC200 trim piece so you don't have to cut the running boards?

Yes, search LX570 running boards off and you’ll see a few pics of mine with the LC rocker covers. PM me if you want more pics.

 

[SWUtah]

In case anyone else is trimming their 570 steps instead of buying LC rocker covers I performed the task a bit differently than mentioned above. Basically the same process but instead of removing the painted step shell and dealing with the threshold plates and all those brittle tabs, I removed all the associated parts and cut the waste off while still mounted to the rig. Once you’ve popped the tread cover, removed the bolts and rivet hidden underneath, you can pull out the rest of the black plastic liner buy simply prying the outside tabs where they lock into the outside of the painted shell that is going to be removed then the whole assembly will pull out of the shell. Makes it very easy to maintain the sight picture you want for cutting off the unneeded shell. In my pic, you’ll notice my cut left a bit of the curvature where the rockers turn into the step leaving a visible shadow line on the ends. Now that I have the Slee sliders mounted up, I do plan to trim just a bit higher to remove that shadow line. Really didn’t notice it until I looked at the pic.

BTW, the Slee sliders were super easy to install and only required one nutzert to be inserted into an already vacant frame hole on the driver’s side as the rest of the hardware attaches to existing weld nuts in the frame. No special tools needed, just a drill to enlarge the frame hole for the nutzert and a simple diy nutzert tool. If you haven’t installed one of these before it’s super simple and plenty of pics online. Just source a bolt the size of the nutzert, a nut larger than the bolt and a lock washer. Place the oversized nut on the bolt then the lock washer then thread all the way into the nutzert capturing all the threads. Push assembly into hole, put a wrench on the oversized nut to hold in place and start torqueing down the bolt and it will pull and expand quickly into the hole. I use my 3/8 Impact driver but can easily be done with a ratchet.

View attachment 1727245View attachment 1727246View attachment 1727247

Damn!!! Your serious in the off-road rock crawling. That bad ass rig no longer looks like an LX 570 you’ve created your own vehicle design. Very cool

 

[Kashflyer]

More Removal notes:
To get it off the car, you just need to undo the flap fittings front and back, the electrical, and the six 12mm bolts. Then there are three or four nylon press fit trim connectors across the rocker, just under the doors.

That is not the route I took. I chose a more adventuresome path.
First I took out the 12mm bolts and unplugged the socket. I thought that there were front release trim pieces behind the textured/flat plastic vertical, so I disassemble the step in situ. I wouldn't necessarily recommend this. And if you do disassemble in situ, leave in the 12mm bolts so you can torque against them. Anyhoo.

To disassemble the running board:
Pry up the plastic corrugated tread. It will break 10 or 12 nylon fasteners/clips. There are 3 10mm bolts and a rivet. Use a cold chisel to snap the rivet head off. The rivet is attached to a small bracket, which can be unclipped.
THere is a metal loadbearing horizontal, it is interclipped with the revealed plastic trim. This metal bar is attached to the brackets / 12mm behind the rockers. This is the trim which is the 'shape' of the rocker. You can release these and pull out the trim. At this point the brackets/metal bar can be removed, and you're left with the fascia trim. It is easy to pry off the car at this point. Don't forget to open the doors.

I have pics, but it's bedtime . . .

Update on this: you do not have to remove the tread ply. You can squeeze the rivets from underneath with a screw driver and pop them up!

 

[LBC LX1]

Update on this: you do not have to remove the tread ply. You can squeeze the rivets from underneath with a screwdriver and pop them up!

That's exactly what I did with mine. You can disassemble the whole running board with our breaking any of the plastic retainers. I'm very pleased with Slee's sliders, excellent construction, and perfect fit. I also purchased the armor to cover the hydraulic components for the suspension and the LED conversion lights (yet to be installed - In progress ).

 

[TXMeatball]

Did mine today. Popped off the plastic grip, broke the black clips holding in the painted tabs, removed the inner black plastic, and finally removed the boards leaving the moulding on. Messed around with a hacksaw/hackzall for a bit but didn't like the results. Ended up using a sturdy box knife with a brand new blade to cut everything. Highly recommend that, made everything easy and gave really clean results. First one took about an hour and the second took 15 minutes.

 

[pwag]

Did mine today. Popped off the plastic grip, broke the black clips holding in the painted tabs, removed the inner black plastic, and finally removed the boards leaving the moulding on. Messed around with a hacksaw/hackzall for a bit but didn't like the results. Ended up using a sturdy box knife with a brand new blade to cut everything. Highly recommend that, made everything easy and gave really clean results. First one took about an hour and the second took 15 minutes.
View attachment 2332870View attachment 2332873

Now that is clean work. Looks like a sharp blade & tape lined for guide (?) is the route to go for those wanting that extra bit of perfection.