Thanks for the suggestions! i've got a multi tool, but the 270 degree blade got dull and I haven't bought a new one yet. I'm planning to use the scroll saw for the curves, and the jigsaw for the straights. Should be fine. I have a file if need be.
LX570 Running Board Removal (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter loop737
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The LX is better without the running boards. They are there for the mass market because it does change the step in height by quite a bit. It also shows the rear lower control arms and a Toyota logo stamped into the body up front.
I also recommend taking off the mudflaps and trimming them flush with the bumper. And you can remove the aero flaps under the front. These are all low hanging plastic.
I also recommend taking off the mudflaps and trimming them flush with the bumper. And you can remove the aero flaps under the front. These are all low hanging plastic.
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So the plastic is very soft and will cut with any tool really. I used a hand powered coping saw. My blade wasn't tight, so I got a bit squirrelly on the first cut until I realized that. Smooth sailing after. It will pass the three feet test, and if it really bothers me I can superglue the error and sand it. It doesn't. The other easy fix is the put some of the trim on it that people use for bumper trimouts. Anyhow.
I cut the front more straight across then I had taped. It just seems the right thing to do. I kept the part that backs the mudflap, and the mudflap, but that could easily be removed, even on the car.
I would say that unless you were and EXPERT and were looking for it, there is no reason to use the TLC trim piece. Looks fine. I expet the other side where I can apply learning it will look completely perfect.
The AHC stuff is fully visible, particularly the AHC slider parts.
I cut the front more straight across then I had taped. It just seems the right thing to do. I kept the part that backs the mudflap, and the mudflap, but that could easily be removed, even on the car.
I would say that unless you were and EXPERT and were looking for it, there is no reason to use the TLC trim piece. Looks fine. I expet the other side where I can apply learning it will look completely perfect.
The AHC stuff is fully visible, particularly the AHC slider parts.
For those that want close ups.It took less than five min to cut, mount, put the flap on, and deburr.
Here's the back
<edit - this is prior to cleaning up with a file >
Here's the back
<edit - this is prior to cleaning up with a file >
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Here's the front. This is before adding back the mudflap so you can see how I kept that shape.
Here's a full view. and the front after mudlapping.
All the pics are before final filing. I don't have any from later on.
I think I'll try my tin snips on the next pieces, or perhaps the kitchen scissors.
No regrets here. Saved at least $200 per side, and I can't imagine the retail solution provides any significant improvement.
All the pics are before final filing. I don't have any from later on.
I think I'll try my tin snips on the next pieces, or perhaps the kitchen scissors.
No regrets here. Saved at least $200 per side, and I can't imagine the retail solution provides any significant improvement.
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supercarrera
Club Esprit de Four
Yeah! Looks good enough to me. Especially when real sliders are added. i will be doing this as well. Thanks for posting!
Me too. Thank you for posting the updates and process!
Happy to help! I've spent a lot of time on this forum learning about the 200 (and 100 too, pre purchase). Great team here.
Glad it works out with so little actual cutting involved. For the majority of the rocker (the middle 60" or so) the trim actually curves back perfectly just under the sheet metal. I bet this part of the profile is EXACTLY the same as the TLC piece. It only is different at the ends to incorporate the all in one running board/step.
I think the driver side will be less than an hour all in.
Glad it works out with so little actual cutting involved. For the majority of the rocker (the middle 60" or so) the trim actually curves back perfectly just under the sheet metal. I bet this part of the profile is EXACTLY the same as the TLC piece. It only is different at the ends to incorporate the all in one running board/step.
I think the driver side will be less than an hour all in.
Very nicely done!!! Should should prove to be the way to go once Slee's bolt in sliders are available.
I do wonder how beefy the AHC sliders are? The tube sizes look substantial. Wonder if they have enough integrity to actually hold up the vehicle? Or if a step rail could be added to them with some additional beefing of the mounts. Hrmmm.
For inspiration, LX570 with sliders. You're getting closer...
I do wonder how beefy the AHC sliders are? The tube sizes look substantial. Wonder if they have enough integrity to actually hold up the vehicle? Or if a step rail could be added to them with some additional beefing of the mounts. Hrmmm.
For inspiration, LX570 with sliders. You're getting closer...
I kept the running boards as they are because they're going back on when I sell. Most buyers would want them or a proper slider step. They are a $500+ set to replace.
By the way, total weight of the both side steps with hardware? 27.5 pounds. Flimsy plastic with a small metal bracket.
Going to smooth out the metal, black it out with plastidip and put some POR-15 on the mini sliders.
By the way, total weight of the both side steps with hardware? 27.5 pounds. Flimsy plastic with a small metal bracket.
Going to smooth out the metal, black it out with plastidip and put some POR-15 on the mini sliders.
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@krice118 yes, sliders are in the short term plan. I'm trying to get fit out before the summer mud season starts here in the PNW. I also have a rim refurbish for some rough 18"s I got this weekend on the docket too.
I haven't ordered anything yet. Most recently I've found some 'generic' 72" sliders that comes with 8 pipes and 8 brackets, just need a friend with a welder to complete the project. I'm going to call some local fabs around here, and if that proves no go, may buy a welder on CL for $150.
@Chocolate that's good news on the weight. I thought it was less. Sliders are around 75, so only plus 50 lbs. I bet the AHC guard pipes are 20 lbs a side too, so if those come off, it might be near net zero weight gain. Definitely my sliders will have step plates. I have three little kids.
I haven't ordered anything yet. Most recently I've found some 'generic' 72" sliders that comes with 8 pipes and 8 brackets, just need a friend with a welder to complete the project. I'm going to call some local fabs around here, and if that proves no go, may buy a welder on CL for $150.
@Chocolate that's good news on the weight. I thought it was less. Sliders are around 75, so only plus 50 lbs. I bet the AHC guard pipes are 20 lbs a side too, so if those come off, it might be near net zero weight gain. Definitely my sliders will have step plates. I have three little kids.
Can you share that source of sliders?
@tbisaacs Here it is: Rock Sliders - Bumpers & Armor - Products - Chassis Unlimited I have not done business with this company. The length you want is 72".
Do you have welder?
I'm about to go put the rig on high and take a look under it at the frame. There is a lot of AHC stuff in the way.
Do you have welder?
I'm about to go put the rig on high and take a look under it at the frame. There is a lot of AHC stuff in the way.
I don’t have a welder.
Once you pull off the AHC rails there is a bunch of clean frame rail. From another thread:
So I had a looksee at the AHC bars. They are mounted at five points to the frame, with what look to be 2 bolts at each mount. The mounts take up a fair amount of space each, so I'd agree with the pic, it should not be too much challenge to reuse the holes (and bolts?) on aftermarket heavy slider brackets. The existing brackets are generally narrow and tall - looks like it would fit a flat or box stock solution better than a pipe solution. <edit - went and looked again, there is a 3x3" pad at every mount point except the rear, that one has a rubber hose obscuring it. Also note I'm too lazy to go look at the driver side, so for now I'm assuming it's a mirror of passenger, I'm sure it isn't though>
The AHC accumulators appear to be at lowest point level with the frame, I'd consider losing a 1/4" of clearance and putting some shielding in place for the AHC parts so that they don't get pointy rocked.
Also rolled my new M/T Tundra rim combo over and took a gander at the future with high AHC. Excellent
The AHC accumulators appear to be at lowest point level with the frame, I'd consider losing a 1/4" of clearance and putting some shielding in place for the AHC parts so that they don't get pointy rocked.
Also rolled my new M/T Tundra rim combo over and took a gander at the future with high AHC. Excellent
I stole this pic from a will my tire fit thread. Looks like for cutting at the front wheel one could follow the curve in the trim and have it go lower on the mud flap. No need to go horizontal. I was worried about slider clearance there, but obviously if the TLC trim if curving down an off the shelf slider will come in behind or around.
Hmm, that particular one is not a good solution, less coverage of the AHC system than stock.
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That’s one of the rigs with Slee’s sliders on it.
I don't like that design. You're protecting the rockers while leaving the AHC components completely exposed. The stock bars do more to protect your LX's suspension.
Of course, Slee makes very good stuff including the rear bumper. That slider would work better for a LC.
Of course, Slee makes very good stuff including the rear bumper. That slider would work better for a LC.
