LX570 Build v37 for 37s (5 Viewers)
- Thread starter TeCKis300
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- #42
I have a 275/65R20LT in the spare position from the previous setup. Specs 34.1"x11", which was close enough to the previous 35s in overall diameter. I also needed a narrower tire as I have an LRA 12.5 aux fuel tank that pushes the spare down about 1".
I'll continue to keep this spare with 37s. It's about the largest that will fit in the boot.
Here's the thinking:
- I don't want to compromise the ergonomics, usability, and weight of the vehicle with a rear swing out. That space is precious for more useful things like a camp kitchen and water.
- Along with going to 37s, I also went with more robust R/T tires (3-ply) as primary mitigation against flats and punctures
- I have tire plugs, sidewall patch kits, and valve stem replacements onboard as further mitigation
- The mismatched spare is still a full performance robust A/T tire that will easily get me off the trail. If I needed to run on-road, adjusting inflation pressures and slower speeds will get me where I need to
@TeCKis300 is there any data to show the point at which ATRAC gets grumpy with dissimilar tire sizes? It takes steering angle into account to allow for a differential in wheel speed when cornering, but is there a point where the delta in wheel RPM could trigger unwanted ATRAC engagement?
When you say this, do you mean the fender lip is essentially a pinch weld that is folded in…and that clearancing can be done by cutting 1/2” of the excess pinch weld off the inboard portion of it, thereby leaving about an 8th of an inch of pinch weld still holding the fender lip together?
- Thread starter
- #45
Y
You got it. Yes it's holding together fine.
You got it. Yes it's holding together fine.
Good info…it sounds like a 12.5” wide double tucks in a 35 offset…but at 27 offset, because you’re pushing the tire outwards about 0.4”, it’s prudent to shave approx 0.5” of metal out of the fender lip to make space…
Would you potentially be able to photograph the trimmed section?
With your investigation into the 35x12.5 and its ability to “double tuck” in the rear have you looked into what the potential limiting factor to this upward jounce is?
The metallic axle bump stop on the frame? Or the rubberized one in the coil?
The metallic axle bump stop on the frame? Or the rubberized one in the coil?
This is the way
I just did panhard, lower links and sway bar bushings and I swear the difference was noticeable and immediate.
- Thread starter
- #51
Yeah, that's what I'm hoping for as I can tell the rear end is loser, and not just because I'm on tall profile tires. That the original links got me 15 yrs and 180k adventure filled miles. I've got another 2k mile trip here before I get to installing everything.
Nice. I did the same recently for a soon to happen project. I ended up buying all Ironman 4X4 adjustable links. They were on sale so pretty much the same price as the OEM. I doubt I need the adjustability, but it’s been said here that the lower links are beefy. And having adjustability might be useful. Hopefully it’s not one of those instances where having adjustability might cause more problems than it solves with all the extra variables.
Also bought 50mm extended whiteline sway bar links. Hope to get it all on in the next few weeks.
There are brackets on the upper control arms for AHC sensors. I’m not optimistic they are not going to need some work.
Also bought 50mm extended whiteline sway bar links. Hope to get it all on in the next few weeks.
There are brackets on the upper control arms for AHC sensors. I’m not optimistic they are not going to need some work.
Since you brought it up, I bought longer brackets instead of longer links. They are seriously beefy.
I probably did t look hard enough but didn’t find anything that was specific for a 200. Who makes those?
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- #56
Missed this but better late than never. I trimmed to the where I think the layers joined, about 1/8" from the outer panel. If you look a bit more forward, you can tell where the cut starts.
The spring jounce stop and frame stop engage at about the same point on a square double tuck compression. So they work in tandem to handle that load. On an articulated tuck, the frame stop is what is mostly engaged. I've upgraded my frame stop to a durobump as I do like to run hard baja style. AHC does a great job keeping the suspension off the stops and I tend to use sport for maximum compression damping on really fast running. On big whoops, it can g-out and that's where these stops help.
- Thread starter
- #57
Just the usual shenanigans! Welcome back AnyMal.
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- #58
Nice, didn't know those extended sway links existed. I DIY'd some welded in extensions (top).
Superior engineering
teejnut
SILVER Star
These? https://www.superiorengineering.com...0-series-rear-under-chassis-2-inch-lift-30581
What's the best place to order for Superior Engineering? Direct on their AU site?
