LX470 Heater Function Problem (1 Viewer)

[shtbrwn86]

Air in the system will get trapped at the "Tees" and cause the same condition as a leaking Tee, as it's the highest point in the system.

LX radiators also are prone to leaking where the plastic top and bottom caps are "crimped" to the aluminum body. it might be a replacement radiator, but if it has more than 100k on the radiator that could be the culprit. And, while you are at it...replace those Tees if they've never been replaced.

I definitely think it's coming from where the bottom is crimped. I can see it bubble under the crimps and come out through them. See this video.
I basically hooked up a pressure tester, pumped it to 17.1 psi per the FSM and it starts leaking like this.

You can see in the pictures that it's clean above the crimped part but from underneath you can see coolant coming through.

I just looked up the records and the radiator was replaced by the Lexus dealer in AZ on 6/25/2019. I bought the truck from him on 6/22/2020. Any idea if Lexus will help with this at all? I know it's a 12 month warranty but this is pretty crappy. Although even if they agreed to honor the warranty, it probably would only be the Arizona dealer, not the one where I live.

I can get a Koyo radiator on Amazon for $225 and I was all ready to buy one, but i wanted to see if this looks like the radiator or something else. Regarding the T's, since it has 245k and spent it's life in the hot desert I ordered the T's and hoses, as well as upper/lower radiator hose and thermostat. If the thermostat housing looks bad then I will do the o-ring as well.

 

[shtbrwn86]

Very offended I find that Dealerships or corner shop have not burped properly, and not replaced cap and thermostat with new radiator. I'll bet the instruction for your special funnel, states something to the effect of: Check for air in the system. Those funnels can and do leave air pockets.

Often times while adding coolant, I spill some. It will drip down in area yours is dripping wet.

I'd wash radiator and area of all coolant signs, and keep top each morning unit day after it will not take anymore in radiator. Then, keep watching for leak(s). Most leaks are from top plastic near where it meets metal, on old radiator. Once in a while from object petrating the radiator.

"Pinky crusty" The upper radiator hose shows signs of leak at hose gooseneck of water bypass joint front. I also see impression of OEM hose clamp, but no clamp.
View attachment 2363833

You can see the bracket for the transmission cooler line is broken. It's important to have secured. The cooler line bouncing around, which will loosen the connection. I tie those up, until I get a new bracket in and on.

I ordered new radiator hoses because the ones there look to be in bad shape...again, replaced recently by the dealer. I noticed all the pink crusties as well, but when I pressure test I don't see any leaks from those hoses, just the base of the radiator. If the hoses were leaking would I expect to see leaks from them during a pressure test? I think it might be from an older leak.

Thanks for the tip about the transmission cooler bracket. Also, are you saying I shouldn't use that funnel?

 

[2001LC]

Looks like it. Assume you already washed. I'd wipe clean as I pump pressure up in radiator to 15PSI, and should see very active leak at that time.

 

[ItGoesTo11]

I definitely think it's coming from where the bottom is crimped. I can see it bubble under the crimps and come out through them. See this video.
I basically hooked up a pressure tester, pumped it to 17.1 psi per the FSM and it starts leaking like this.

You can see in the pictures that it's clean above the crimped part but from underneath you can see coolant coming through.

I just looked up the records and the radiator was replaced by the Lexus dealer in AZ on 6/25/2019. I bought the truck from him on 6/22/2020. Any idea if Lexus will help with this at all? I know it's a 12 month warranty but this is pretty crappy. Although even if they agreed to honor the warranty, it probably would only be the Arizona dealer, not the one where I live.

I can get a Koyo radiator on Amazon for $225 and I was all ready to buy one, but i wanted to see if this looks like the radiator or something else. Regarding the T's, since it has 245k and spent it's life in the hot desert I ordered the T's and hoses, as well as upper/lower radiator hose and thermostat. If the thermostat housing looks bad then I will do the o-ring as well.

View attachment 2364764View attachment 2364765

Looks exactly like the crimp is leaking. I'd talk to the Lexus dealer, this part is only a year old, no way it should fail that quick. You are only *barely* out of warranty on that part, I'd bet they'll do something. Maybe just ask for the part to be replaced and you can install it yourself?

And glad to hear you are replacing the Tees, thermostat and hoses, that's a good call and an easy way to ensure she'll stay running at the proper temp.

 

[shtbrwn86]

Looks exactly like the crimp is leaking. I'd talk to the Lexus dealer, this part is only a year old, no way it should fail that quick. You are only *barely* out of warranty on that part, I'd bet they'll do something. Maybe just ask for the part to be replaced and you can install it yourself?

And glad to hear you are replacing the Tees, thermostat and hoses, that's a good call and an easy way to ensure she'll stay running at the proper temp.

Ugh... Called Lexus dealer and they referred me to corporate who said too bad so sad. I still think it's the radiator cap that caused too much pressure. I tested it multiple times and it would not release pressure. And the dealer recommended replacing it but doesn't look like they did.

 

[shtbrwn86]

Well it just keeps getting better. Bought a radiator in what I assumed was plenty of time for my trip and get this in the mail....

 

[2001LC]

Straighten it. You may even be able to use your old one. Or overnite!

 

[shtbrwn86]

Straighten it. You may even be able to use your old one. Or overnite!

It's actually cracked so straightening it isn't an option unfortunately. IF...IF they are willing to give me a big credit then I will try and swap the one off my old radiator. My preference would be a new one overnighted to me but that's going to be expensive. And if I'm going to do this work I don't want to do it twice.

 

[2001LC]

I just buy at Advance Auto. Got tired of shipping damage! Pick up by noon.

 

[shtbrwn86]

Which radiator do you recommend from them? The ones I saw on their site are pretty spendy. Why not get an OEM one at that point?

 

[2001LC]

I get the CFX. Toyota Dealerships locally, use same for customer when not using OEM. Had this in a note PN # G1000130859CSF, IDK if correct so double check. They have coupons and get vet discounts, they also cal cut a deal.

I file smooth casting ridges, off lower hose gooseneck. Not doing so, and weep likely.

I also get new OEM upper and lower hose, thermostat & radiator cap.

I transfer the side bracket with foam attached, and cut off and glue the top foam to new rad. For glue I've used various glues FIPG 1282B, 102, 103 and 3M adhesives. All seem to work well.

Washing the fins of condenser and oil cool radiators before install, is best practice.

If going to use a chemical flush like BG flush. I do while old rad still in.

I use only Toyota coolant LL (red) 100% mixed 50/50 w/distilled water or SLL (pink) 50/50 premix. Which depends on year 100 series (See your OM).

 

[shtbrwn86]

Well I replaced the radiator, upper/lower hoses, heater Ts and T hoses. T's were actually in good shape. Driven about 250 miles since replacing all this stuff...

What I did notice was after replacing the heater Ts and hoses (before doing the radiator) was that the heater does sort of work now, although it takes a while to get hot and doesn't get really hot unless it's being revved. But it does seem to work every time. Which it didn't before.

Since replacing the radiator, this is what I did, per my understanding of @2001LC process:

Fill the system and drive it around all day.
Next morning, top off coolant in the radiator. Needed about 15 oz or so.
Next morning, only needed an ounce or two.
Check the next two mornings and the radiator has been full. No topping off needed.
Checked the overflow as well and when it's hot its on FULL. When it's cool, I marked the spot on the reservoir and it hasn't dropped.

I wonder if the core needs to be back flushed?

 

[2001LC]

Well I replaced the radiator, upper/lower hoses, heater Ts and T hoses. T's were actually in good shape. Driven about 250 miles since replacing all this stuff...

What I did notice was after replacing the heater Ts and hoses (before doing the radiator) was that the heater does sort of work now, although it takes a while to get hot and doesn't get really hot unless it's being revved. But it does seem to work every time. Which it didn't before.

Since replacing the radiator, this is what I did, per my understanding of @2001LC process:

Fill the system and drive it around all day.
Next morning, top off coolant in the radiator. Needed about 15 oz or so.
Next morning, only needed an ounce or two.
Check the next two mornings and the radiator has been full. No topping off needed.
Checked the overflow as well and when it's hot its on FULL. When it's cool, I marked the spot on the reservoir and it hasn't dropped.

I wonder if the core needs to be back flushed?

The thermostat and radiator cap should always be replaced with a new radiator, if they're not new or near new OEM.

You likely need a new OEM thermostat & gasket. Reading engine water temp, through tech stream will be revealing.

Make sure on your drives. That both heaters are set to max heat. You can turn off HVAC fans after setting to max heat.

A flush with BG Flush & than add BG Cool may benefit your coolant system. But wait until you see how new thermostat and the temp reading are doing.

 

[shtbrwn86]

Just installed a new thermostat/housing assembly....waiting on some OEM radiator hoses to come in before i fill it back up and test it.
So far i have replaced the following:

• Radiator (KoyoRad)
• Radiator cap (OEM)
• Both radiator hoses (OEM)
• Radiator hose clamps (OEM)
• Little hose that comes off the water inlet assembly (OEM)
• Heater T's and hoses (OEM)
• Thermostat (OEM)
• Thermostat housing (OEM)
• Front and Rear heater cores (OEM, done by dealer January 2016)
  • If anyone is wondering how much the heater core job cost at the dealer, it was $2,134 in 2016.

Stay tuned...

 

[shtbrwn86]

Just installed a new thermostat/housing assembly....waiting on some OEM radiator hoses to come in before i fill it back up and test it.
So far i have replaced the following:

• Radiator (KoyoRad)
• Radiator cap (OEM)
• Both radiator hoses (OEM)
• Radiator hose clamps (OEM)
• Little hose that comes off the water inlet assembly (OEM)
• Heater T's and hoses (OEM)
• Thermostat (OEM)
• Thermostat housing (OEM)
• Front and Rear heater cores (OEM, done by dealer January 2016)
  • If anyone is wondering how much the heater core job cost at the dealer, it was $2,134 in 2016.

Stay tuned...

I have been hesitant to post an update here without driving for a whole, but after replacing all this stuff I now have a working heater. And it gets hot. Coolant temp fluctuates a little more than I would like, but I honestly think it's pretty normal.

I also did a pressure test on the radiator and it held 15 psi for 20 minutes. Didn't even budge. That means the core should be fine right?

 

[ItGoesTo11]

I have been hesitant to post an update here without driving for a whole, but after replacing all this stuff I now have a working heater. And it gets hot. Coolant temp fluctuates a little more than I would like, but I honestly think it's pretty normal.

I also did a pressure test on the radiator and it held 15 psi for 20 minutes. Didn't even budge. That means the core should be fine right?

That should do it! And considering the heater cores are new, they should be fine.

 

[2001LC]

*** Coolant temp fluctuates a little more than I would like, but I honestly think it's pretty normal.

**

Detail?

 

[shtbrwn86]

Detail?

During drive it climbs to 181 normally, then slowly creeps up to 183...holds there for a while, then goes to 185, then 186.8 then 188 then 190. I'd say it stays at 188 most of the time, with the occasional dip to 186 or rise to 190. On occasion it hits 192. Haven't seen it get past that point.

I know it's not the same thing but on my Hyundai with 80k miles I see similar movement of temps. Usually it stays around 196 but jumps to 198/199 or drops to 192/194.

I guess I just thought that this kind of fluctuation would be normal?

 

[shtbrwn86]

I also know you say you see it run 183-187 all day on the 98-02 100 series. I just wonder if it's worth spending all this time to get it back down to that range when it's pretty close as is. As long as it doesn't go much past that?

 

[2001LC]

I'd call that 186 to 190 F. Not bad at all.