- Thread starter
- #561
I got replacement U-Joints for my front driveshaft, from Cruiser Outfitters. Now, I just need the time to pull the driveshaft and have the u-joints replaced.
Builds Lumpskie's Diesel 80 build (3 Viewers)
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At around 70mph my mileage is around 12mpg. My best case is around 16mpg at less than 60mph. I might have other factors affecting it, but I have a lot of trouble believing the "I get 25mpg" crowd.
A lot of that crowd is likely tossing around UK MPG figures, lol.
- Thread starter
- #564
This is interesting! So, what kind of MPGs are you guys typically getting in North American figures? I get 17-19 mpg if I drive like I don't care at all about mileage. If I take it easy, I get 20-22 mpg, with 21.5ish being about the best I've done.
I remember @Rock40 mentioning that he got 25mpg+, but I think he's got a 1HDFT...
17-19 with a best of 20.8mpg. I tend to try and be at the front of the pack on the highway, so I have no idea what it's capable of if I slowed it down. Best tank was in the mountains with zero cruise control use.
- Thread starter
- #566
You sound exactly like me. I tend to be in the fast lane and my best tank was driving more leisurely through the mountains... and pretty close to your mileage. I think it was 21.3. Based on that, I bet we could hit 23 mpg if we really paid attention and kept the speeds down into the 65 mph range or less.
It's funny, you never see these numbers when you search for 1HDT mileage. For a while, I thought I had a problem with my engine because I wasn't seeing anything around 25 mpg.
I get first dibs when Mr. Lumpskie decides to sell his 80.
Now I’m on record.
Now I’m on record.
I know I get anywhere between 12-16 L/100km, with lower, sustained speeds doing better than city or high speed highway runs. Google can convert it to whichever antiquated version of mpg you prefer, but apparently it means I do get up to 19mpg on a really good day. That is with 6" worth of lift, 35" tires and camping weight working with the terrible aerodynamics.
I just got a citation for speeding in an area where the limit is 85mph. Going 93. On that leg I calculated my mpg to be 14mpg. Not bad for cruising at 93mph
Under normal driving between 65-70mph I generally sit around 19mpg. Thats a fully loaded cruiser with RTT.
Under normal driving between 65-70mph I generally sit around 19mpg. Thats a fully loaded cruiser with RTT.
17 to 22 L/100km towing this depending on headwinds
around 14 L/100km usually when not towing
around 14 L/100km usually when not towing
- Thread starter
- #571
Best compliment ever.
After reading everyone's responses, my mileage doesn't seem too bad. For now, I'll be happy with what I have. Also, since there are a few of you reading now, I've got another idea that I thought I'd throw out there.
I have 3" lift with LandTank 2.5" caster plates. Since I don't need any additional caster correction, I was considering getting a single Superflex arm for more front flex:
Superior Superflex Radius Arm Suitable For Toyota LandCruiser 80/105 Series Standard Height (Each) SUPRARMLCR | Superior Engineering
Huge range of heavy duty 4X4 accessories & suspension parts for most makes & models of 4WD vehicles. Buy online. Australia wide delivery.
www.superiorengineering.com.au
I figure I'll need a spacer to put in between the arm and the top mount of the plates to make up for the thickness of the caster plats on the bottom 2 mounts. Other than that, I figure, I should be good.... right?
Does anyone have any insight into whether this would work as smoothly as I works in my head?
Even the Aussies will say the super flex arms aren’t worth squat on the road. If you want, I can share a pic of my front travel with 3.5 dobinson tapered coils (like your slinky), 6” lift shocks and Delta VS arms. Bushings wear faster but there is always a price to pay.
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- #573
Really? For some reason, I thought they had ok road manners. If you have flex pics using the Delta arms, I'd love to see them. Right now, I have all this potential in the springs/shocks and my arms are holding me back.
The top pic is with stock arms. The 6” lift shocks are maxed out in both pics. In the bottom pic you will notice that the coil is not maxed. This is due to the 1” spacer on top of the spring. Otherwise, the coil and shock are perfectly matched.
- Thread starter
- #575
That flex is way better that what I'm getting right now. How well does the front end move when climbing or facing up hill? Also, are there threads that cover the topic of strange handling behavior from the superflex arms? I did a quick search but didn't find much information on them.
Just shy of 25mpg after the OD gear swap and it is an FT engine
The long shocks help droop and the narrower Delta arms don’t bind as quickly as the factory arms. This, of course, will destroy rubber bushings faster depending on how often you flex it out to the limits.
I’m not sure what you are asking when you ask about axle movement when pointed up hill. I’ve read a few posts where the radius arm haters among us say that a radius arm designs “unloads” when going up a steep incline. I think any suspension would experience a drastic shift in weight distribution to the rear in such a situation that’s why competitors use a small winch to suck the rear and/or front suspension down for steep ups and downs. I’m just a country boy who happens to appreciate Landcruiser’s and likes wheeling, therefor, I just drive and if I get where I’m trying to go without destroying my vehicle, it’s all good.
You already have the tapered coils right? If so, all you might need is longer shocks and front sway bar removed.
- Thread starter
- #578
Hey Baldilocks,
I was curious about how the flex is when you are climbing up hill versus downhill because (as you already know) when you climb, the weight is biased to the rear, usually making the rear flex well but the front not as much. When going down hill, the reverse is typically true, where the front flexes more because the vehicle weight is shifted over the front axle.
I'm with you... I'm not trying to get into the details of a radius arm versus linked setup. I just want to get out and have fun with my rig. At this particular moment, I'm exploring how to get the front to move more freely, just so I can keep the body away from trees/rocks/walls when I'm out in the woods. That's my main motivator for the front flex.
Right now, I've got the Slinky stage 1 intermediate kit on there. So, I have the taper coils, long shocks and associated HW (extended brake lines, sway bar drops in the rear, no front sway bar). My current setup will stuff a tire decently on flat ground or on a decent, but the extension side never really performs like a solid axle should. My theory is that the radius arms (with old bushings) are the majority of the problem. So, I thought, rather than just get bushings, how can I go a "step above" on the radius arms to get the front and rear to flex more equally?
- Thread starter
- #579
After a little more thought, I think I should replace all the bushings in my stock arms, before buying anything else.
Can anyone help me out with part numbers and where is a good place to buy them? (Now that Onur is out of the game)
Can anyone help me out with part numbers and where is a good place to buy them? (Now that Onur is out of the game)
I buy Toyota parts from McGeorge Toyota Online Parts in Virginia unless it’s something small where the shipping cost over rules the online discount. They give 30-34% discount. You should be able to find the bushing on their parts diagram.
