mudgudgeon
Resident galah
doubt it would by much. that looks better than I thought it would be
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- Thread starter
- #182
It's not horrible but it does go over the frame a bit and curve back. Honestly, I bet my exhaust shop won't do this good of a job, but I will show them these pictures:
I'm just hoping that getting rid of that muffler and the bends associated with it will lower my EGTs so I can turn my fuel pin back to the aggressive side. When I was running that profile, the 80 was really fun to drive!
The 3" exhaust will definitely do something to lower your EGTs. I have the 3" exhaust that was installed by ATEB in BC. They also did the "power rod mod" and while its super fun in that setting, the EGT did mess with me at all times. I was frustrated as hell and just could not figure out what was going on. I went to a garage in south Georgia to a guy specializing in Toyota diesels. During the initial test drive he noticed something odd with the EGT gauge. The numbers will shoot up at full throttle and then immediately roll back to 500 degrees Fahrenheit. He thought about it and said that its impossible for the temperature to cool that quickly. Turns out my sensor was going bad. I ordered a custom intercooler setup anyway. I just don't want to deal with EGTs ever again.
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- #184
That's a good story to keep in the back of my mind... What kind of EGTs were you seeing?
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- #185
New exhaust is done! It's nothing fancy but they rerouted it to stay inside the frame and it came out really cleanly. Here's the route:
Turbo exit:
Stays inside the frame:
Heads straight (ish) back:
and through the magnaflow:
Impressions: EGTs seem to be down by 100 degrees F across the board. It feels like it has a bump in power. The turbo spools quicker and doesn't feel choked like it did before. I build 1 psi more boost than I did before (under full load) but I use 3-4 LESS psi of boost when cruising down the highway at 80 mph. So, each individual change is small but overall it made a decent difference. (I can't imagine what going to 3" would do! ...we'll see about that later) And (the main reason for doing this) I pulled off the muffler brackets which were in my way, so I can get my slider feet and legs in there! While I was at it, I removed the stock shield for the cats and rerouted my ARB rear locker air line to the top of the frame, then inside the frame to correspond to the new exhaust routing. Still making progress!
Turbo exit:
Stays inside the frame:
Heads straight (ish) back:
and through the magnaflow:
Impressions: EGTs seem to be down by 100 degrees F across the board. It feels like it has a bump in power. The turbo spools quicker and doesn't feel choked like it did before. I build 1 psi more boost than I did before (under full load) but I use 3-4 LESS psi of boost when cruising down the highway at 80 mph. So, each individual change is small but overall it made a decent difference. (I can't imagine what going to 3" would do! ...we'll see about that later) And (the main reason for doing this) I pulled off the muffler brackets which were in my way, so I can get my slider feet and legs in there! While I was at it, I removed the stock shield for the cats and rerouted my ARB rear locker air line to the top of the frame, then inside the frame to correspond to the new exhaust routing. Still making progress!
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- #186
It turns out that the new exhaust sounds pretty good! It has a little diesel growl and a little turbo whine to it, which I like. Here's a short video I took in the driveway. Not bad for an inexpensive 2.5" setup!
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- #187
I'm figuring out the skid plates that will mount in between my slider supports, I'm going to weld 2" steel angle onto the inside of my slider supports as the mounting point for my skid plates. I'll make two skids which will be about 2 feet long and about 4 feet wide. Because the skids will be so big, I am considering using aluminum (6061 or maybe 5083) to keep weight down so I can install/remove them easily. I've been reading the Millerwelds website, trying to get strength properties of aluminum to see if it can be done. Quick calcs show the steel coming in around 150 lbs and the aluminum coming in around 50 lbs. Costs seem very similar as well. Found this quote on strength on Millerwelds:
I'm thinking of going with a couple 3/8" aluminum plates. (2ft by 4ft) Then, I'm planning on welding aluminum angle down the center of the plates and 1" square around the edge. (or something similar) Overall, the longest unsupported span should be 1 foot or less.
My rig currently weighs around 5000 lbs and I don't expect it exceeding 5500 lbs. Do you guys have any opinions on this approach?
I'm thinking of going with a couple 3/8" aluminum plates. (2ft by 4ft) Then, I'm planning on welding aluminum angle down the center of the plates and 1" square around the edge. (or something similar) Overall, the longest unsupported span should be 1 foot or less.
My rig currently weighs around 5000 lbs and I don't expect it exceeding 5500 lbs. Do you guys have any opinions on this approach?
My only thoughts gut is that aluminum galls more easily than steel. May save weight, but if drug over rocks, the lifespan may be less.
That said, I have a 1/4" DieselGeek pan on my lowered Audi, and it has taken a beating, and only has needed a few BFH adjustments over the years.
That said, I have a 1/4" DieselGeek pan on my lowered Audi, and it has taken a beating, and only has needed a few BFH adjustments over the years.
mudgudgeon
Resident galah
are those material specs based on a static load? If you drop a tire of a rock step, and drop the rig onto the belly pan, the impact force could be a lot greater than a static load
i think aluminium will not cope with being dragged cross rocks as well as steel. steel will slide more easily
i think aluminium will not cope with being dragged cross rocks as well as steel. steel will slide more easily
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- #190
That's a good point. I didn't think about galling...
Yeah, I just went with the basic load tables... no dynamics included. And you have a point about steel sliding better. On the other hand 5083 and 6061 are really corrosion resistant... I think I'll need to make a decision on whether I want the corrosion resistance or the durability.
Thanks for the input, guys.
- Thread starter
- #191
Maybe I can get your opinion on this...
I ordered a Costa Fabrications front bumper. It will look just like this one: (light cutouts for my D2s and low lightbar protection)
Recently, I've seen a lot of threads about guys getting in accidents where the bumper didn't provide enough protection. Either poor coverage or weak design.. like this:
So, now I'm considering getting the "HD" version, just in case. My commute on I93 makes me scared most days. It would look like this:
What do you guys think. Would the extra frontal area be handy or am I over worrying?
I ordered a Costa Fabrications front bumper. It will look just like this one: (light cutouts for my D2s and low lightbar protection)
Recently, I've seen a lot of threads about guys getting in accidents where the bumper didn't provide enough protection. Either poor coverage or weak design.. like this:
So, now I'm considering getting the "HD" version, just in case. My commute on I93 makes me scared most days. It would look like this:
What do you guys think. Would the extra frontal area be handy or am I over worrying?
I really like full coverage, to protect from brush/trees/etc.
Not that, in an actual collision, if the bumper doesn't bend, then something else will. Could be your frame.
Not that, in an actual collision, if the bumper doesn't bend, then something else will. Could be your frame.
That is beautiful! Nice work, but I must pick a bit.
I see some wires zip ties to steel brake lines in one of the last pics, please don't do this, too much heat causes the insulation to soften, if the wire strands short to the metal line, it can arc a hole in the line.....ta-da, no brakes!
Same goes for fuel lines, try to keep wires away from these 2 and you eliminate a possible disaster.
I see some wires zip ties to steel brake lines in one of the last pics, please don't do this, too much heat causes the insulation to soften, if the wire strands short to the metal line, it can arc a hole in the line.....ta-da, no brakes!
Same goes for fuel lines, try to keep wires away from these 2 and you eliminate a possible disaster.
I like the extra protection the HD version provides from trees, maybe a deer hit, but in an accident I don't think the end result would be much different.
- Thread starter
- #195
@IanB, @carbon60
Thanks for the input! For the bumper, I decided to go with a happy medium. I'm doing 3/16" boxed steel wings but no extra tubes. I just kind of like the clean look of the low profile version!
@Lionsgarage Good eye! I think the picture you are referring to was the example picture I used... where the blue, red and yellow wires are zip tied to the brake line. My rig's setup is farther down. But, if you see anything shady on my rig, let me know!
Thanks for the input! For the bumper, I decided to go with a happy medium. I'm doing 3/16" boxed steel wings but no extra tubes. I just kind of like the clean look of the low profile version!
@Lionsgarage Good eye! I think the picture you are referring to was the example picture I used... where the blue, red and yellow wires are zip tied to the brake line. My rig's setup is farther down. But, if you see anything shady on my rig, let me know!
- Thread starter
- #198
So, I had this great plan that I was going to spend the full Labor Day working on my sliders and actually make progress. So, I pulled the catalytic converter heat shield off and got to work. I got the last feet located and tacked together. Once I got the passenger side foot tacked, I tried to pull the bolts out to remove the foot. It turns out that the coolant lines for the rear seat heater were slightly in the way. So, I tried to gently persuade them with a small pry bar... I think everyone knows what happened next. Turns out the hard lines were held together with rust. The moment I tried to apply pressure to move the line, I heard a crunchy sound followed by a pressurized leak sound. Here's the aftermath:
So, I put a pan under the leak and got started on an impromptu rear seat heater bypass. Here's what I came up with:
I made a plug for the coolant line here. (I need to cap off the inlet through the firewall)
I removed the "T" and made a straight shot here:
Is this what you guys typically do for the bypass?
So, I put a pan under the leak and got started on an impromptu rear seat heater bypass. Here's what I came up with:
I made a plug for the coolant line here. (I need to cap off the inlet through the firewall)
I removed the "T" and made a straight shot here:
Is this what you guys typically do for the bypass?
So, I had this great plan that I was going to spend the full Labor Day working on my sliders and actually make progress. So, I pulled the catalytic converter heat shield off and got to work. I got the last feet located and tacked together. Once I got the passenger side foot tacked, I tried to pull the bolts out to remove the foot. It turns out that the coolant lines for the rear seat heater were slightly in the way. So, I tried to gently persuade them with a small pry bar... I think everyone knows what happened next. Turns out the hard lines were held together with rust. The moment I tried to apply pressure to move the line, I heard a crunchy sound followed by a pressurized leak sound. Here's the aftermath:
So, I put a pan under the leak and got started on an impromptu rear seat heater bypass. Here's what I came up with:
I made a plug for the coolant line here. (I need to cap off the inlet through the firewall)
I removed the "T" and made a straight shot here:
Is this what you guys typically do for the bypass?
Pretty much, minus using the hard section of pipe.
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- #200
Thanks for the confirmation! One more question... where's this pesky heater hose, I keep hearing about? Is that part of the front heat or the rear heat? I looked for pictures and they're all so close up that I can't recognize what I'm looking at.
