Lspv optimal height (1 Viewer)

[LandCruiserPhil]

Hey Phil, is that the full up position? I have a 3 inch lift on my 97 and have been fighting ( like everyone) with brakes, full up and give the rod a bend?

Yes, When asked I tell guys just unhook the rod from the axle and wire it up the the tire carrier. Once you do that if you like it you can either leave it or waste more time like me and make it more permanent. Your results will be the same either way, better braking.

 

[FlyAddiction]

Just did the mod as LandCruiserPhil did (fastened the rod all the way up). I am driving an HDJ81 with the small disk brakes all around. The rear now locks up when braking hard... too much for my liking. I might be a bit light in the back and could be due for a brake change, Ill wait till I get the big brake upgrade done and see how it goes.

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

Just did the mod as LandCruiserPhil did (fastened the rod all the way up). I am driving an HDJ81 with the small disk brakes all around. The rear now locks up when braking hard... too much for my liking. I might be a bit light in the back and could be due for a brake change, Ill wait till I get the big brake upgrade done and see how it goes. View attachment 1290560

Purdy

 

[Heckraiser]

Just did this this afternoon. The improvement is very noticeable--rears actually seem to be doing something for the first time since I've owned the truck. I just secured the rod with a couple zip ties--I think I'll eventually just do the LSPV delete since the balance feels good to me.

Side note: WTF is that rod made out of? I couldn't bend it for the life of me and it took my "metal laser" sawzall blade like 45 seconds to cut through. Same blade will go through a DOM slider or a metal fence post in about 10 seconds.

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

Just did this this afternoon. The improvement is very noticeable--rears actually seem to be doing something for the first time since I've owned the truck. I just secured the rod with a couple zip ties--I think I'll eventually just do the LSPV delete since the balance feels good to me.

Side note: WTF is that rod made out of? I couldn't bend it for the life of me and it took my "metal laser" sawzall blade like 45 seconds to cut through. Same blade will go through a DOM slider or a metal fence post in about 10 seconds.

Cool now with your turbo you are going to need better brakes

As for the rod, Cut off wheel 10 sec

 

[OVERRIT]

I guess I'm spatially challenged. Is raising the bolt on the arm attached to the axle the same as lowering the valve bracket? I'm looking to increase the rear braking w/o committing to the full LCP skidoo fix. (My 80 has bumpers & sliders &etc., OME 2.5" heavy).

ps, Phil: got your bottle jack adaptor today, it's great, but the tootsie rolls it came packed in were damaged in shipping. I know you'll want to replace those ASAP.

 

[Dragos80]

You can do both actually. Lower the valve and raise the bar too. This way you get a more aggressively working valve.

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

I guess I'm spatially challenged. Is raising the bolt on the arm attached to the axle the same as lowering the valve bracket? I'm looking to increase the rear braking w/o committing to the full LCP skidoo fix. (My 80 has bumpers & sliders &etc., OME 2.5" heavy).

ps, Phil: got your bottle jack adaptor today, it's great, but the tootsie rolls it came packed in were damaged in shipping. I know you'll want to replace those ASAP.

Please explain damaged?

 

[OVERRIT]

There were scuff marks on the Tootsie Roll wrappers...I tried to save them, but had to put them out of their misery.

 

[Dragos80]

So, I got mad at myself today for failing at some electrical issues with the headlights and felt like I owed it to my car to do something right.

I raised the arm of the LSPV all the way up on the axle side to the point where the top nut wouldn't go any higher (unless great torque was applied to it).

I got the Tootsie roll allusion the first time.

 

[yjeff]

If you must keep your LSPV this is the correct adjustment for best braking performance.

View attachment 1288440

Is it just crimped off?

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

Is it just crimped off?

The factory rod was cut, bent, 1/4" spacer was welded to the end, and bolted to the frame using a factory threaded hole. With the rod in the up position I get 100% available braking power to the rear.

 

[rc51kid]

LSPV optimal height...however high your trash can is.

 

[deltapine1]

Side note: WTF is that rod made out of? I couldn't bend it for the life of me and it took my "metal laser" sawzall blade like 45 seconds to cut through. Same blade will go through a DOM slider or a metal fence post in about 10 seconds.

Cool now with your turbo you are going to need better brakes

As for the rod, Cut off wheel 10 sec

Reading this thread reminds me of something. Rod must be High Tensile Steel.

 

[LINUS]

Optimal height?

3/16" off the ground, laying in the bottom of your trashcan.

 

[1973Guppie]

Reading this thread reminds me of something. Rod must be High Tensile Steel.

most likely the lspv arm is spring steel, same as leaf springs.......

 

[tacocat]

The factory rod was cut, bent, 1/4" spacer was welded to the end, and bolted to the frame using a factory threaded hole. With the rod in the up position I get 100% available braking power to the rear.

Phil,

How did you bend the rod?

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

Phil,

How did you bend the rod?

Hands

 

[tacocat]

Hands

Did you cut a notch in it? I’m using the Dobinson LSPV bracket, but the rod contacts the upper control arm and prevents driver side droop.

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

Dosnt sound like something I would do but honestly I dont remember.

This is what we are talking about right?