Low Range Gears Worth It? (1 Viewer)

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Is this horse dead yet?

For the record, I did search and have read a lot on the topic, just looking for some more thoughts or confirmation.

Here's my scenario. My 80 is a weekend camper/wheeler. I don't consider my usage "hard core rock crawling" but I have run most of the trails around Colorado and Moab--enough to put my lockers to use at least a few times a year. I am planning a trip to Rubicon next summer if that makes a difference. I haven't really felt the need for deeper gearing, but I bet there would be times I would appreciate it if I had it. My transfer case is in need of an overhaul (lots of leaks, bad bearings), so if I was gonna throw in reduction gears, this would be the time.

So I guess my question is: has anyone done the low range gears and regretted it? Found it didn't make a major improvement? Or wish they had spent the $$$ on beer instead?

I would prefer this thread stay on the topic of low range gears not to muddy the waters with high-range reduction (also a interesting topic).

:deadhorse:
 
I bought the $300 TG gears 2 years ago, finally had them installed a few weeks ago. The lower gearing is awesome, makes a big difference for low speed crawling but it is far from what I would consider ideal. Truck really needs something much lower. But for $300 you can't go wrong. For the marginal improvement you get, not sure I'd be willing to spend $800 for the Marlin version.

I do like the increased peppiness in L/D for the dirt roads. Can comfortably do about 25mph with the tcase in L and transmission in D. I use L/2 for most trail riding then switch to L/L when I get in the actual rocks.
 
The lower gearing is awesome, makes a big difference for low speed crawling but it is far from what I would consider ideal.
You still have stock gearing in the axles? Shocking.
 
Have installed several sets of Marlin gears and one Trail Gear, all have liked them, no regrets. Not earth shattering, but a nice change.
 
I want them and I'm sure they will be worth it based on the difference the 4.88's made over stock in the diffs. With the under-drive high range gears available an argument can be made for re-gearing the t-case over the axles for someone on 35's.

My only gripe is that my 80 will not upshift to overdrive in low. (some years will some won't) So my top speed with the gear reduction in low is going to be limited to probably 20MPH?
 
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My only gripe is that my 80 will not upshift to overdrive in low. (some years will some won't) So my top speed with the gear reduction in low is going to be limited to probably 20MPH?

Easy deal, unplug the L4 position switch and it will use the high range shift map in low range. Will need the CDL switch, because it will no longer auto lock when shifted to low range.
 
I bought the $300 TG gears 2 years ago, finally had them installed a few weeks ago. The lower gearing is awesome, makes a big difference for low speed crawling but it is far from what I would consider ideal. Truck really needs something much lower.

I agree, sorta, but also not. I think having a lower 1st gear in the trans would be nice. I don't think a bigger spread between low range boxes is a good idea, though, and I certainly don't think 19 transfer cases like the mini trucks is a good idea.

The solution is a LS3 with a 6L80
 
Easy deal, unplug the L4 position switch and it will use the high range shift map in low range. Will need the CDL switch, because it will no longer auto lock when shifted to low range.
With the viscous coupler, you don't need the CDL. It automatically locks when it gets really hot
 
I agree, sorta, but also not. I think having a lower 1st gear in the trans would be nice. I don't think a bigger spread between low range boxes is a good idea, though, and I certainly don't think 19 transfer cases like the mini trucks is a good idea.

The solution is a LS3 with a 6L80

Yeah transmission gearing is really awful. I find myself having to manually downshift a lot during city driving too. Seems to always be in the wrong gear.
 
Easy deal, unplug the L4 position switch and it will use the high range shift map in low range. Will need the CDL switch, because it will no longer auto lock when shifted to low range.

I forget are the factory lockers tied to 4L or CDL to activate? (other than under 11MPH or whatever)
 
I forget are the factory lockers tied to 4L or CDL to activate? (other than under 11MPH or whatever)

My OEM elockers wont luck unless the CDL is engaged regardless of 4H or 4L.
 
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With the viscous coupler, you don't need the CDL. It automatically locks when it gets really hot
Um, once?

I figured you were gonna tie this into a head gasket theory.
 
Welp, off the rails already :doh:
 
Don't know. Have had the gearset for a year but have been messing with other projects. Hoping to get them in shortly though, one project just left the driveway. We can put it in low and see the difference if you're curious.
 
i think they are definitely worth it. they made a very noticeable difference even with my 42s and 5.13s. i just now ordered the high range underdrive to put in while my case is apart to fix these broken spider gears. hopefully wont have to pull this thing again any time soon lol
 
Just installed the 10% Under drive high range and 30% low range last night.. so far I like the high range but not as big of an improvement as I was expecting.. its still a 7000 lb beast no matter what gears its got!
 
I think you are looking at it the wrong way.

Ask yourself at what price they are not worth it anymore. Especially for a weekend fun rig.
You definitely need better gearing. Would you pay $1 for regearing, $10, $100....
 
@Heckraiser I recently re-geared the high side of my TC. The reason I did not do the low side while I was in there, is because I like to run 2nd gear low range for most of my off-roading. I was worried that it would make the top speed in that gear too low and I would lose all of the benefits of it. Unfortunately that is just speculation as I do not have an identically setup rig with the low side gears in it.
 

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