Loose steering (1 Viewer)

[FatTireGoose]

I recently purchased '79 FJ40 and have discovered the steering is pretty loose. In spite of it having power steering it seems to track all over the road, takes constant vigilance to keep her going straight. Front tires show normal wear and all steering components seem to be as they should. A local mechanic has suggested the Saginaw upgrade but I'm thinking the stock configuration should be sufficient, maybe just tightened up if there's a way.

 

[imyahucklbrry]

There are components of the OEM steering that can be adjusted or possibly rebuilt... center arm, steering box.
Also, the TREs might need to be changed out...
Other more knowledgeable members will hopefully chime in about this!

 

[ToyotaMatt]

start with your tie rod ends , drag link & center arm rebuild kits & New parts

this will help greatly , especially if they are original

also make sure everything is well greased using FULL synthetic chassis grease like mobile 1 or Valvoline / marine grease


like @imyahucklbrry suggested in part


elaborate on your Power steering ? Factory or NON Oem toyota Box and pump ?

 

[FatTireGoose]

[QUOTE="RAGINGMATT, elaborate on your Power steering ? Factory or NON Oem toyota Box and pump ?[/QUOTE]

Fairly certain it's all original/oem stuff.

 

[Dizzy]

Saginaw boxes require a bit of frame modifications.
Long shackles up front? Wide tires? Lift? Old steering damper?

 

[FatTireGoose]

OEM?

Saginaw boxes require a bit of frame modifications.
Long shackles up front? Wide tires? Lift? Old steering damper?

Haha, all of the above.

 

[middlecalf]

Haha, all of the above.

None of which were ever prescribed in the original design (the steering damper has the least to do with wandering of these listed).

 

[3_puppies]

have someone rotate the steering wheel and see where there is extra movement in the system. all joints should be tight with no movement and the center arm should rotate on it's own axis with no other movement.

also spring bushings can cause wander if not in good shape.

 

[Tancruiser]

True there shackle bushings can cause all kinds of wandering.

 

[Dizzy]

With a longer shackle, a compensating, wedge shaped shim is customarily installed under the axle perch and the spring pack to compensate for the off angle created by lifting just one side of the spring. This rotates the knuckle a bit and restores your original castor angle. Ideally, shackle length is used to compensate for spring compression, and not to create lift; longer shackles would compensate for greater spring articulation, and there is an ideal angle that they rest at as to allow for the best spring compression. The rear axle is also affected, but it is more about driveshaft vibration.

Unfortunately, suspension lifts create a steeper relay rod angle. The problem with this is that when the whole front end moves up or down, it pulls and pushes the relay rod more than if it were closer to horizontal. When people lay out their Saginaw boxes, they figure out the best Pitman arm (amount of drop from the box) for amount of suspension lift to maintain good geometry of their relay rod.

You can also check your toe-in.

A worn out rag joint wouldn't make for fun driving.

Generally a sloppy steering box is due to wear. However, it is something you might check as well.

 

[emac]

Get under the rig and have someone jiggle the steering wheel back and forth and check from the rag joint to the wheels and see if you can find any play. Check toe in. That will make a huge difference if it is out of spec. FSM has procedure for adjusting/rebuilding the steering box.

 

[Stumpalama]

We need pics of your setup.

 

[FatTireGoose]

We need pics of your setup.

All OEM, I believe. The last picture shows another and maybe related concern that the steering arm (proper name?) contacts the front driverside shock body (oversized aftermarket shock?).

 

[Stumpalama]

Flip the shock over... No big deal. Check your center arm pivot for play. Have someone turn the wheel back and forth while you watch for movement of the center arm. How old are the tie rod ends? How are your spring bushings? Lots of places to check, last place would be steering box.

 

[Michael Hanson]

Hi, New tie rods for sure. Mike

 

[FatTireGoose]

Thanks all. Gonna start with the "have your buddy turn the wheel while I check what's worn" method.

 

[Dizzy]

BTW, your front shackles don't look long. And, by the looks of it your springs look stock as well, besides being three-leaves in a pack.

 

[reddog90]

Hi, New tie rods for sure. Mike

Could you explain? My steering is a little loose and I'm trying to diagnose the root cause(s) right now as well. Don't want to replace TRE if I don't need to.

 

[Marn0]

Following closely as my 79 bj40 is all over the road as well. All of my steering components seem in good condition. One thing that has had a great affect is adjusting my toe in. I have been slowly winding it in and then test driving and the wander has been improving each time.

 

[tlc762]

BTW, your front shackles don't look long. And, by the looks of it your springs look stock as well, besides being three-leaves in a pack.

Your shackles appear to be stock length however your springs are not. The springs are the old Rancho/Burbank three leaf 2.5" lift springs- which are known for a horribly stiff ride due to the much heavier spring rate and thickness of the leaves... (I still have a set on the wife's '74 that will be scrapped once the truck is moving under its own power again)
HTH,
Will