Looking at a LX570 (1 Viewer)

[ATwoZ]

I think people have used this with success in the cases of deeper led bulbs. There are also some "universal" flexible caps out there. I assume you are supposed to cut your OEM cap and attach the flexible rubber cap to increase clearance.

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Interesting, with my Hikaris there was no cutting needed, just plug and play. Doesn't look like new ones have enough improvement, but really good to know this is out there.

 

[doru]

Quick question :going to see a private seller today, how do you remove the plastic engine bay covers?

 

[bloc]

Quick question :going to see a private seller today, how do you remove the plastic engine bay covers?

On top of the engine: Pull straight up on the front edge. There will be 2 or 3 rubber grommets that fit onto pins in the front. The back edge hinges, once the front is loose. It’ll make sense once it starts lifting up.

The ones on the sides: the factory pins have a little black center button that you press in and this will release catches that allow you to pull the panel up. Once you go to reinstall, you have to reset them by pushing the black pin/button out again, past flush. Then you insert the pin, and push it flush, and the tabs will expand holding the panel in place. Problem is these have a finite life span and are often replaced with all kinds of other pins that work differently. Or not replaced with anything. Who knows what will be there..

 

[doru]

Thank you, it came very handy today.

 

[doru]

I saw two more LX's in the past 2 days and after all tests drives so far the one thing that keeps nagging me on all rides are the brakes.
I do get that the truck is much heavier than my wagons but it's not about the breaking distance because I can't even get to estimate that due to such long/slow brakes engagement.
I saw something about using Tundra larger front brakes but that can't fix the very long and soft pedal travel.
What fixes do exist for this? Is there a problem with master cylinder size?
Thanks

 

[bloc]

I saw two more LX's in the past 2 days and after all tests drives so far the one thing that keeps nagging me on all rides are the brakes.
I do get that the truck is much heavier than my wagons but it's not about the breaking distance because I can't even get to estimate that due to such long/slow brakes engagement.
I saw something about using Tundra larger front brakes but that can't fix the very long and soft pedal travel.
What fixes do exist for this? Is there a problem with master cylinder size?
Thanks

Metallic pads such as TRD will have better initial bite and not feel as spongy, but they do dust more. A few people have swapped to tundra brakes but the difference is marginal. See @bjowett or @TeCKis300 thread on the subject.

 

[ATwoZ]

I saw two more LX's in the past 2 days and after all tests drives so far the one thing that keeps nagging me on all rides are the brakes.
I do get that the truck is much heavier than my wagons but it's not about the breaking distance because I can't even get to estimate that due to such long/slow brakes engagement.
I saw something about using Tundra larger front brakes but that can't fix the very long and soft pedal travel.
What fixes do exist for this? Is there a problem with master cylinder size?
Thanks

They will bite when they need to, we've used them a couple times in 'emergency' type situations and when the brake assist kicks in is rather impressive. I've just gotten used to the normal feel for day to day.

 

[TeCKis300]

I saw two more LX's in the past 2 days and after all tests drives so far the one thing that keeps nagging me on all rides are the brakes.
I do get that the truck is much heavier than my wagons but it's not about the breaking distance because I can't even get to estimate that due to such long/slow brakes engagement.
I saw something about using Tundra larger front brakes but that can't fix the very long and soft pedal travel.
What fixes do exist for this? Is there a problem with master cylinder size?
Thanks

Your impressions aren't unique to those first coming to the 200-series. Weight is surely a part of it at 6,000lbs. The other is that the brakes may be setup differently than most cars in that the pedal has more travel. If you're use to sedans and other cars where brake modulation is more about pedal pressure, this may give the perception of weaker brakes, but that's not the case. Once you get into the meat of the pedal travel, you'll learn that the brakes are reassuringly strong. It's been suspected the 200-series brakes are setup with more travel to help modulation on bad or off-road situations. I find they work great all around as the designers intended.

That said, the 2016+ cruisers got bigger brakes. 354mm to 340mm. There are those that have said those brakes can be touch, but I presume they ultimately get use to it. As @bloc mentioned, you can go with more aggressive pads to get more bite if you prefer that. Or upgrade to Tundra rotors and calipers on the pre-2016 200s, to get the same 354mm brake size. I only upgraded my pads and brakes to re-gain leverage on 35s.

Anecdotal, but I flip between driving a Porsche 911 Turbo which has arguably some of the strongest brakes. Once learning the LX feel, I have no issues with it. I find it has strong brakes. All 200s also have Brake Assist (BA), that will provide auxillary stopping force if it senses emergency braking via speed and forces on the pedal. The LX has the benefit of AHC which actively reduces brake dive.

 

[04UZJ100]

I saw two more LX's in the past 2 days and after all tests drives so far the one thing that keeps nagging me on all rides are the brakes.
I do get that the truck is much heavier than my wagons but it's not about the breaking distance because I can't even get to estimate that due to such long/slow brakes engagement.
I saw something about using Tundra larger front brakes but that can't fix the very long and soft pedal travel.
What fixes do exist for this? Is there a problem with master cylinder size?
Thanks

Try a 2016+. Brakes are much stronger and have an entirely different pedal feel.

 

[doru]

Thank you very much for that info. It's good there is a solution.
No budget for 2016. How about installing 16 brakes on 13? Is it only the calipers/rotors or also master cylinder? Are they bolt on or do they need a bracket? Also how is Tundra upgrade vs. 2016?

P.S. I know I said no projects but I think this is the only thing I miss. Getting closer to a deal. Wish me luck.

 

[grinchy]

You can retro fit I believe. It costs some $. Did you retrofit @TeCKis300

 

[TeCKis300]

Thank you very much for that info. It's good there is a solution.
No budget for 2016. How about installing 16 brakes on 13? Is it only the calipers/rotors or also master cylinder? Are they bolt on or do they need a bracket? Also how is Tundra upgrade vs. 2016?

P.S. I know I said no projects but I think this is the only thing I miss. Getting closer to a deal. Wish me luck.

Simpler than that. Caliper, rotor, brake line, and a brake line retainer.

Detailed here

DIY Tundra Brakes (BBK)

Time for bigger tires and with that, need a big brake kit (BBK). Thanks to the pioneers @TexAZ, @bjowett, and others before me, it's been known that upsized Tundra front brakes, rotor and caliper, largely bolt in. Here's my attempt to simplify the install for others that may want to tackle...

forum.ih8mud.com

For stock sized tires, I think the stock brakes are great. On the contrary, they're strong and have good of heat capacity, as a premium SUV should have. Just takes some getting use to. Short of that, they might just need some maintenance and refreshing. At most, upgraded pads might be what I'd do. Those can tend to be grabby at lower speeds.

 

[doru]

Here it is ... the beast, just purchased before leaving for home, with my Camry in tow. Picture is in dealer were it was inspected, but it was a private sale.

2013, 96k miles, conditions above excellent - a paint chip on the hood, a chip on the windshield and a missing plastic pin on the engine plastic shroud. Only missing the remote start option. It is silver outside and black w/ a blue hue inside, dark wood, dark silver plastic. Much, much better than the parchment interior. It looks elegant but not luxury in your face. I like it a lot.
Was used for shuttling the kids to games, school, and a bit of vacations in state. Kinds gone to college, car sold. Full records. Leather like new cause the owners did not like the leather feel and had covers.
Never towed anything - the draw bar was new in OEM box and the hitch was virgin.
Never saw forest roads or snow.
Tires just replaced and brakes almost new.

Buying it is an entire story and it took one month and a lot of patience. That is the bad and painful part and I'm ready to wipe it from my memory.

Love the car and how it tows - hence the beast name.

As I said before after test drive I still hate the brakes even more now after I saw how they behave when towing. I have to track my Volvo to make the brakes smell like they smell on LX with just normal breaking while towing. I think sooner or later I'll have to address the brakes.

Very happy with the purchase.

Thank you very much guys for all the help you gave me! It really made a big difference.

 

[txtortoise]

It was available for a month, in this market? Can we ask the price... Just broke 80K on my 2013.

Manheim Auction has it at $32K average, with low 96K miles takes it to $36.5K. Estimated retail $42K....your truck I'm, guessing is $42K+ on open market.

 

[doru]

The things were not what they look like... The price was $39500. Here Seattle area, the dealer prices were between 45-49K and they were not very open to negotiate down much due to low inventory and high demand. None of the trucks I could find were even close to this one's conditions. Some had body repairs even if the carfax report was pristine (I did some body work so I can tell).
Prices varies by market. Not many people are willing to buy a few states away or use Carvana or similar. Availability for LX 2013 in WA (including Portland, OR) was not great especially if you wanted a good truck with under 100k miles, dark interior and non-black exterior.
So how's that it was 1.5 months? It was more than 2 months on the market but it took me "only" 1.5 to buy it. The reason was the seller. Here is the short version...
The guy was paranoia about selling on craigslist, his privacy, his time, etc. He had other buyers but they decided not to buy. Later I understood why - it was not the truck, it was him. First he listed the truck on craigslist with very small pictures hard to see truck condition. Then he used only Craigslist email to communicate. The communication was very slow sometimes one message a day. He did not want to send more details or answer my questions. He did not wanted to send normal pictures either. He did not want to negotiate the price and he was saying that very clearly and upfront. He demanded to come and see the truck in person if I want to talk to him. So I had to drive more than 200miles one way just to see if this was for real. At that time I fully expected to be a hoax or the truck to be a bad deal. I met the guy and I had 30 minutes to look at the truck including a short test drive. With your guys help I knew what to look for and the truck checked out (was not allowed to take the shrouds off so I had to use mirrors). But due to the strange behavior of the owner I said it would be prudent to ask for an inspection. He agreed. So I arranged the inspection and was ready to pay for it. Forgot to mention that he was available to do anything only in weekends ... All this stuff was strange. This is not my first used car buying experience but it was nothing like you would expect. I did some detective work and also hired an internet firm to get me a file on the owner, to answer the question is this guy trustful or even real. The check come back fine and the guy was legit, even if very weird. The day the inspection was suppose to happen at Lexus dealer (after waiting more then one week for owner to make time) he changed his mind while driving to the dealer, almost throwing a tantrum cause the dealer told him they are running half an hour late. So I said I'll come in person and do the inspection myself in his driveway. He said that he now he feels responsible and can't sell the truck w/o inspection. Go figure. So I had to schedule the inspection with a Toyota dealer this time, waiting two more weeks for him to make time. He went to the inspection and I made sure I'm there also. As you might expect the Toyota dealer did s***, less than I could inspect and none of the specific LX stuff - paid for nothing. Anyway I managed to close the deal at the dealership so the rest is history.