It’s just a usb to 3.5mm Bluetooth dongle. It powers and receives on the usb side, and puts the signal on the aux jack. They’re $10 all day long
Looking at a LX570 (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter doru
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
- Thread starter
- #62
Thanks for the idea. That will be the easy backup plan.
bloc
SILVER Star
That was my point.. different features for different people. For me having factory tint is also a requirement, and didn’t come on the early years.
The updated MFI and HIDs were “wants” not “needs” but at the end of the day I’m glad I invested in them.
Some people could cruise right along in an 08 and save a significant amount of money.. it’s all about figuring out what is important. And available, I guess.
ATwoZ
SILVER Star
Just chiming in that I've been more than pleased with the Hikari LED bulbs in my 2010. I have HIDs in my XC60 and don't feel like there is anything missing. Candidly from a visibility perspective, the more 'upright' driving position does help a lot when it comes to general visibility.
In general, as I think you're hearing from folks, find one at your budget in good shape and you'll be happy. 2010+ would have BT audio.
- Thread starter
- #65
Can you give me a bit more context on the engine "oil seep" - how bad has to be? Is some oil expected? Why should I walk away, what causes the "seep"?
Here is what I had on my list already collected from random posts, please comment ....
- KDSS valve for rust
- KDSS rear cylinder leaking
- Radiator for leaks at the plastic top
- Leaky water pump - Where should I look for the pump?
- Starter contacts - How do you check that? Is this about corrosion on the terminals?
- Front defroster - Not sure what to check it for?
- Rear driveshaft clunking - How do you test that?
- Engine idler pulley making noise when cold - What does it mean, need a new pulley or new belt?
- Blower motor making noise when cold - Where is the blower? The usual place behind the glove box?
- Leaking transfer case at companion flange area - Where is that area?
- Treads on the cam tower leak - Can someone translate this to me?
- 4WD fluids, ask for records - Do you have a quick list of what fluids should I look for in the records?
- Check AC working
- Check it has power folding mirrors
- Ask for the Smart Access Card Key (like a credit card) - if it has the option
- Check it has remote start by toggling the remote 3x. - Which button?
Thanks!
Lx won’t have kdss. Ahc items to check are it goes up to high and down to low
Get on some dirt and try 4l and center diff lock buttons
Get on some dirt and try 4l and center diff lock buttons
ATwoZ
SILVER Star
KDSS is not applicable for LX. You'll want to confirm AHC operation and see if any records for fluid flush etc...you'll find some differing opinions on either don't touch it unless something isn't working right and those that suggest changing every 60k-ish miles.
ATwoZ
SILVER Star
.
Last edited:
Need neutral to shift to 4l. Center diff lock is on the fly
- Thread starter
- #70
Thanks for the feedback. The KDSS was left from my GX list.
Yesterday I found and read the ABC post on AHC - very good. Forgot to add to the list. Do I need TechStream or can I get by without it?
I got the software and the cables today but not sure I can get it running in time for the weekend.
How about that tower leak. I found some scary info about the 2010- Tundra, Sequoia, LC, LX, and GX engines. Looks like a very common problem. I thought that the V8 engine is bluet proof. Leaking at under 100k is not cool. Is this what the "oil seep" was all about in the @toyotabill post? But if that is then I should check on both sides of the engine not only driver side. What am I missing?
My impression now is that if I buy any of these V8's I have to plan for a reseal sooner or later. Is that just an impression? I'm a little freaked out not because of the work involved (I rebuilt engines before) but because for so much money for one of these LX I was not planing on doing such a job for many years to come. As I said wife will kill me if I bring home one more car that needs fixing, and BTW she's right this time.
Yesterday I found and read the ABC post on AHC - very good. Forgot to add to the list. Do I need TechStream or can I get by without it?
I got the software and the cables today but not sure I can get it running in time for the weekend.
How about that tower leak. I found some scary info about the 2010- Tundra, Sequoia, LC, LX, and GX engines. Looks like a very common problem. I thought that the V8 engine is bluet proof. Leaking at under 100k is not cool. Is this what the "oil seep" was all about in the @toyotabill post? But if that is then I should check on both sides of the engine not only driver side. What am I missing?
My impression now is that if I buy any of these V8's I have to plan for a reseal sooner or later. Is that just an impression? I'm a little freaked out not because of the work involved (I rebuilt engines before) but because for so much money for one of these LX I was not planing on doing such a job for many years to come. As I said wife will kill me if I bring home one more car that needs fixing, and BTW she's right this time.
ATwoZ
SILVER Star
Major AHC adjustment is with a 10mm wrench, minor tuning via techstream
I'm not aware of any major tower leak issues- doesn't mean it couldn't be out there, but the two main issues that tend to bubble up are the starter and radiator. Everything else I personally (and I'm not an expert) chalk up to the random issues that can happen with any car. Is it possible you end up with a lemon, sure...no guarantees and nothing is perfect, but in general think of what you're buying- a top end luxury SUV from arguably the most reliable manufacturer...in many scenarios you can hope the previous owner was someone that drove it to the mall 5 times a week and had it serviced religiously at their Lexus dealer.
bloc
SILVER Star
200 series 3URs were supposedly built in a different factory and seem to be spared much of the cam tower leak drama. Many people post here regularly and that doesn’t come up often at all. What does seem a bit more common on high mileage motors is the cam chain cover seeping but that can be mostly ignored and isn’t a fire risk, and it seems like it’s the guys approaching 200k that even notice it. I have this issue but am keeping it in check with a good engine degreaser spray down every oil change. Eventually I’ll pull the timing cover and fix it but will wait for good weather. If I weren’t OCD about leaks I’d let it go.
- Thread starter
- #73
One of the trucks I'm looking forward to see this weekend is like that ... on paper. Remains to be seen.
The tower leak came up in the search with a class action (now closed) right at the top.
YouTube also has plenty about the towers, and many Tundra owners are chiming in. Is Tundra more affected than LX? Is that because those trucks get driven more miles? Or because the statistic population of trucks is larger? AFAIK the engines are the same, aren't they?
You’re making a mountain out of a mole hill. Toyota’s in my experience are Damn near bulletproof. Even if the cam tower was leaking at 200k miles, it won’t kill the engine. The 5.7 in these trucks are made in Japan. Japanese engines supposedly are preferable to the us built tundra engine… one of which did 1 mil miles without a repair. The starter is usually good for over 150k miles. These trucks tend to be drama free.
you are also buying a truck that was usually sold to rich old people. They drive to the beach, the mall, and around town. They usually put 10k miles a year, get it serviced at Lexus, and flip it every three years. In other words, these trucks lead a pampered life.
Here is what I had on my list already collected from random posts, please comment ....
- KDSS valve for rust - land cruiser specific
- KDSS rear cylinder leaking - Land cruiser specific
- Radiator for leaks at the plastic top - If it doesn't have a new radiator, i'd plan to replace it sooner rather than later, no matter its condition (be better to find a leak or stress crack so you can talk down price really..)
- Leaky water pump - Where should I look for the pump? - Coolant down front of the engine or on lower skid plates
- Starter contacts - How do you check that? Is this about corrosion on the terminals? - Not sure on this one, never heard of anyone specifically worrying about contacts, starter is a tough job to replace. Solenoid is somewhat failure prone, but can be worked around with a big screw driver to get you back home.
- Front defroster - Not sure what to check it for? - This could be referencing the front wiper de-icer. It gets broken when people do a bad job of replacing the windshield. You will notice there are two patches of heater wires run through the lower windshield where the wipers sit. I also wouldn't be too worried if it was broken. But I live in AR. Ice isn't a big problem here.
- Rear driveshaft clunking - How do you test that? I believe when it clunks it's during take off or stopping. I think this is usually resolved with proper greasing of the drive train. There are 6 zerks to keep greased in the driveline.
- Engine idler pulley making noise when cold - What does it mean, need a new pulley or new belt? - Yes, same as any vehicle
- Blower motor making noise when cold - Where is the blower? The usual place behind the glove box? - Yes, but can be reached only removing one easy to take off panel. This is a worst case $100 and 20 min in driveway fix. And i don't believe it's actually that common.
- Leaking transfer case at companion flange area - Where is that area? - Not sure on this one
- Treads on the cam tower leak - Can someone translate this to me? - Not common on Japanese 5.7s, but the Cams are mounted in there own "bracket" between block and valve train on each side. They've been known to leak on Tundras a lot. I also think it's an issue with the 4.6s, so not "saving" must going to a GX.
- 4WD fluids, ask for records - Do you have a quick list of what fluids should I look for in the records? - same as any 4wd. Front/rear diffs and Center diff.
- Check AC working - Same as any vehicle.
- Check it has power folding mirrors - Pretty sure all LXs have these, and it's some what common to have a motor failure. Enough so there is an ebay store that sells replacement motors, so it's pretty much a situation that has worked itself out. I never use my folding mirrors, but some do.
- Ask for the Smart Access Card Key (like a credit card) - if it has the option - If you do get a smart key, i'd be surprised it was still with the truck. It was a premium package option on the LX, or would have been ordered post purchase.
- Check it has remote start by toggling the remote 3x. - Which button? Lock button push twice with short presses, then a 3rd press and hold for a few seconds. Another feature i rarely use. Lexus vehicles all have a weird remote start, where the truck dies immediately when you get in after it's been remote started. I guess as theft prevention, either way, i've probably only used it 3 times in my ownership, but if i lived in a colder climate, maybe i'd use it more.
This list doesn't include two of the more common issues (that also plague Tundras) and i think more often than cam tower issues in the 200 series.
SAIS (Secondary Air Injection System). This involves a couple relays, valves, and air pumps that work when the truck first cold starts to help with emissions. It's been failure prone on Toyota V8s since they started using the SAIS around 2005. There are bypass kits to fool the truck into thinking it's working fine even when it's not. It's an expensive dealership fix, but it's failed enough that the tundra guys have worked around it with either bypass kits or aftermarket parts. The biggest problem is it throws a Christmas tree of lights in the dash and can result in limp modes from motor. It's also kind of easy to hide depending on the failure mode in a test drive situation. If you clear the codes, they won't trigger again for 2 cold restarts. That is 7-8 hours per cold start. So if the seller starts the truck before you get there, even a couple hours and clears codes, you'd not be able to see it in the dash for up to 20 hours or so. This is where techstream or any obd II scanner would help ((OBD Fusion or Carista are two of many examples) . You'd want to check for any codes pertaining to the system, or that codes hadn't been cleared recently. A scanner will show both of those. If it has already failed and there is already a Hewitt-Tech bypass kit, I'd consider the issue resolved, but others might want the truck functioning as designed. Check the MAF connector. If it looks like something somewhat aftermarket is piggy backed onto the connector, it's been bypassed.
Coolant Valley Leak - This is coolant leaking from cover that is underneath the intake manifold. It's difficult to see until it starts getting bad, then you will see trails of evaporated coolant (pink salty looking deposits) down the back of the motor and on top of the transmission.
Also not on your list and a common sore spot with all 200 series. Check that the HVAC recirculation flap isn't broken. It's behind a cover in the dashboard. Open the glove box, pull the cover. You should see the flap either open or closed. Hit the recirculate button on the HVAC controls (truck on of course) and it should move smoothly to the opposite setting. If it doesn't, you'll be in for a finicky repair. It gets broken because quick lube places don't know they have to hit the recirc button to open the flap to change the cabin filter and they break the flap to get to the cabin filter. Then usually button everything up like they didn't do anything wrong and the unsuspecting customer finds it 2 months later with no recourse.
Lastly, I would check the front floor boards for signs of moisture, especially current moisture. There are a few different causes of leaks for water to get down there, and water in the floor board is bad for 200 series electronics as there are large wiring harnesses at the bottom of the A Pillar on both sides that water can get into and wreak havoc. It wouldn't be a bad idea to pull the door jam covers off and visually inspect the harnesses for corrosion if you think you can get away with it.
- KDSS valve for rust - land cruiser specific
- KDSS rear cylinder leaking - Land cruiser specific
- Radiator for leaks at the plastic top - If it doesn't have a new radiator, i'd plan to replace it sooner rather than later, no matter its condition (be better to find a leak or stress crack so you can talk down price really..)
- Leaky water pump - Where should I look for the pump? - Coolant down front of the engine or on lower skid plates
- Starter contacts - How do you check that? Is this about corrosion on the terminals? - Not sure on this one, never heard of anyone specifically worrying about contacts, starter is a tough job to replace. Solenoid is somewhat failure prone, but can be worked around with a big screw driver to get you back home.
- Front defroster - Not sure what to check it for? - This could be referencing the front wiper de-icer. It gets broken when people do a bad job of replacing the windshield. You will notice there are two patches of heater wires run through the lower windshield where the wipers sit. I also wouldn't be too worried if it was broken. But I live in AR. Ice isn't a big problem here.
- Rear driveshaft clunking - How do you test that? I believe when it clunks it's during take off or stopping. I think this is usually resolved with proper greasing of the drive train. There are 6 zerks to keep greased in the driveline.
- Engine idler pulley making noise when cold - What does it mean, need a new pulley or new belt? - Yes, same as any vehicle
- Blower motor making noise when cold - Where is the blower? The usual place behind the glove box? - Yes, but can be reached only removing one easy to take off panel. This is a worst case $100 and 20 min in driveway fix. And i don't believe it's actually that common.
- Leaking transfer case at companion flange area - Where is that area? - Not sure on this one
- Treads on the cam tower leak - Can someone translate this to me? - Not common on Japanese 5.7s, but the Cams are mounted in there own "bracket" between block and valve train on each side. They've been known to leak on Tundras a lot. I also think it's an issue with the 4.6s, so not "saving" must going to a GX.
- 4WD fluids, ask for records - Do you have a quick list of what fluids should I look for in the records? - same as any 4wd. Front/rear diffs and Center diff.
- Check AC working - Same as any vehicle.
- Check it has power folding mirrors - Pretty sure all LXs have these, and it's some what common to have a motor failure. Enough so there is an ebay store that sells replacement motors, so it's pretty much a situation that has worked itself out. I never use my folding mirrors, but some do.
- Ask for the Smart Access Card Key (like a credit card) - if it has the option - If you do get a smart key, i'd be surprised it was still with the truck. It was a premium package option on the LX, or would have been ordered post purchase.
- Check it has remote start by toggling the remote 3x. - Which button? Lock button push twice with short presses, then a 3rd press and hold for a few seconds. Another feature i rarely use. Lexus vehicles all have a weird remote start, where the truck dies immediately when you get in after it's been remote started. I guess as theft prevention, either way, i've probably only used it 3 times in my ownership, but if i lived in a colder climate, maybe i'd use it more.
This list doesn't include two of the more common issues (that also plague Tundras) and i think more often than cam tower issues in the 200 series.
SAIS (Secondary Air Injection System). This involves a couple relays, valves, and air pumps that work when the truck first cold starts to help with emissions. It's been failure prone on Toyota V8s since they started using the SAIS around 2005. There are bypass kits to fool the truck into thinking it's working fine even when it's not. It's an expensive dealership fix, but it's failed enough that the tundra guys have worked around it with either bypass kits or aftermarket parts. The biggest problem is it throws a Christmas tree of lights in the dash and can result in limp modes from motor. It's also kind of easy to hide depending on the failure mode in a test drive situation. If you clear the codes, they won't trigger again for 2 cold restarts. That is 7-8 hours per cold start. So if the seller starts the truck before you get there, even a couple hours and clears codes, you'd not be able to see it in the dash for up to 20 hours or so. This is where techstream or any obd II scanner would help ((OBD Fusion or Carista are two of many examples) . You'd want to check for any codes pertaining to the system, or that codes hadn't been cleared recently. A scanner will show both of those. If it has already failed and there is already a Hewitt-Tech bypass kit, I'd consider the issue resolved, but others might want the truck functioning as designed. Check the MAF connector. If it looks like something somewhat aftermarket is piggy backed onto the connector, it's been bypassed.
Coolant Valley Leak - This is coolant leaking from cover that is underneath the intake manifold. It's difficult to see until it starts getting bad, then you will see trails of evaporated coolant (pink salty looking deposits) down the back of the motor and on top of the transmission.
Also not on your list and a common sore spot with all 200 series. Check that the HVAC recirculation flap isn't broken. It's behind a cover in the dashboard. Open the glove box, pull the cover. You should see the flap either open or closed. Hit the recirculate button on the HVAC controls (truck on of course) and it should move smoothly to the opposite setting. If it doesn't, you'll be in for a finicky repair. It gets broken because quick lube places don't know they have to hit the recirc button to open the flap to change the cabin filter and they break the flap to get to the cabin filter. Then usually button everything up like they didn't do anything wrong and the unsuspecting customer finds it 2 months later with no recourse.
Lastly, I would check the front floor boards for signs of moisture, especially current moisture. There are a few different causes of leaks for water to get down there, and water in the floor board is bad for 200 series electronics as there are large wiring harnesses at the bottom of the A Pillar on both sides that water can get into and wreak havoc. It wouldn't be a bad idea to pull the door jam covers off and visually inspect the harnesses for corrosion if you think you can get away with it.
Do you have a LX or LC? I've been searching for a LED light bulb that is reliable and won't burn out easily,, and one that doesn't interfere with the LX's headlight level sensor. Thought one doesn't exist. How long have you hard your Hikari LEDs?
ATwoZ
SILVER Star
LX - I replaced them almost immediately- so about 2 years without any issues, need to slightly watch wires for AFS, but otherwise fine.
This is the one I used, looks like there is a newer model, no idea on how the newer one is - Amazon product ASIN B077BT6M6Z
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #78
Excellent list! This helps a lot. Thank you very much!
Adding here a link to a very useful video that tells where the things are: in case other prospective buyers read this thread.
ATwoZ
SILVER Star
Edit: just looked at some reviews of the newer version, while a good bulb, it's physically larger than the Ultra and there may be fitment issues with the dust cover. It looks like performance difference is negligible.
I think people have used this with success in the cases of deeper led bulbs. There are also some "universal" flexible caps out there. I assume you are supposed to cut your OEM cap and attach the flexible rubber cap to increase clearance.
2x Extended Caps Replace OEM Car Headlight Dust Cover for Toyota Highlander 2018 | eBay
Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for 2x Extended Caps Replace OEM Car Headlight Dust Cover for Toyota Highlander 2018 at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!
www.ebay.com
