I’m totally confused now. Regardless, nothing wrong with ARB. Good luck!
Locker for a 40
- Thread starter David70FJ40
- Start date
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Oh...guess the Harrop will then NOT work with semi float axles and only full float. Learning is fun!
forum.ih8mud.com
I'm sure you'll be pleased with the ARB!
Harrop E-Locker
forum.ih8mud.com
I'm sure you'll be pleased with the ARB!
I got ARB on the 62 and i like it. Plus i can air up after the trails without much set up.
I loves my ARB's!! You will too.
- Thread starter
- #25
Install date is 1/6, I plan to either have the 40 hauled to Raleigh on Sunday then get back Monday afternoon to drive it back. It will be the ARB, I do have an air compressor in the 40 already so that is taken care of. They will be replacing the pinion seal and I had the rear bearings and seals replaced two years ago.
The only question I have now is asking about solid spacers vs crush sleeves. Since I'm not well versed I would appreciate information on the difference so I don't sound like a total moron at ECGS.
Thanks guys! I appreciate the help and advice. Next, a HAMOM to do the front birfs in the Spring.
From the factory they use a small band metal called a crush sleeve to set your bearing preload. Since there are small variances in manufacturing the crush sleeve would allow them to set the bearing preloads (tolerances) consistently.
well this works great for the street and light duty applications if you need and replace a seal or damaged a yoke and needed to replace it, you would have to go in replace a new crush sleeve ad well which means taking your gears all the part to install a new crush sleeve. additionally if you were to hit your yoke on a rock you could deform the crush sleeve and a change to the tolerance to this this would cause your pinion and ring gear to miss mesh and cause extreme where were damage to a tooth/ teeth and you would have to replace the chush washer to fix it meaning you have to take all the years apart.
with a solid spacer it involves a little bit more time in setting up the clearances by using different thickness shims. But once it's set your good. if you bump a axle yoke on a rock or you have to replace the yolk or seal you don't have to do any preload you just take it off put a new one on and tighten it back up and roll on.
from a factory perspective the crush sleeve is adequate and cheap to do why providing a normalized tolerance/preload
The shims / solid spacers require you assemble and disassemble the yoke/ pinion gear several times using different thickness of shims to get the right tolerances it takes more time to set it up initially.
Watch
well this works great for the street and light duty applications if you need and replace a seal or damaged a yoke and needed to replace it, you would have to go in replace a new crush sleeve ad well which means taking your gears all the part to install a new crush sleeve. additionally if you were to hit your yoke on a rock you could deform the crush sleeve and a change to the tolerance to this this would cause your pinion and ring gear to miss mesh and cause extreme where were damage to a tooth/ teeth and you would have to replace the chush washer to fix it meaning you have to take all the years apart.
with a solid spacer it involves a little bit more time in setting up the clearances by using different thickness shims. But once it's set your good. if you bump a axle yoke on a rock or you have to replace the yolk or seal you don't have to do any preload you just take it off put a new one on and tighten it back up and roll on.
from a factory perspective the crush sleeve is adequate and cheap to do why providing a normalized tolerance/preload
The shims / solid spacers require you assemble and disassemble the yoke/ pinion gear several times using different thickness of shims to get the right tolerances it takes more time to set it up initially.
Watch
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- Thread starter
- #27
Thank you! I now understand much better.
- Thread starter
- #28
Wow! I really like Hagerty Ins.
Their drivers club allows for a free tow up to 20 miles and the next level up is 60 miles so I have changed my level to allow for the extra 40 miles for only an extra $25. The tow is scheduled for tomorrow morning and I will have to pay for the additional miles which should be about 10 miles. Hagerty also provides a free Lyft ride within 24 hours of the call I made this morning but since I will be in Raleigh to pick up the 40 tomorrow after 2 pm that won't work.
So this morning the tow company will pick up the 40 and have it at ECGS before 8 am and I can get it back before they close at 6.
Their drivers club allows for a free tow up to 20 miles and the next level up is 60 miles so I have changed my level to allow for the extra 40 miles for only an extra $25. The tow is scheduled for tomorrow morning and I will have to pay for the additional miles which should be about 10 miles. Hagerty also provides a free Lyft ride within 24 hours of the call I made this morning but since I will be in Raleigh to pick up the 40 tomorrow after 2 pm that won't work.
So this morning the tow company will pick up the 40 and have it at ECGS before 8 am and I can get it back before they close at 6.
- Thread starter
- #29
Wow! That didn't take long to go completely to the crapper! 
I asked for the tow company to pick up at 6:15. So at 6:20 I receive a call wanting to confirm the tow. We go through the details and I'm told my portion for the "overages" is $205.13. Okay, I expected some overages so when I questioned the amount I was told in their conversation with Hagerty the 69.5 miles ballooned to 82 miles and this was their flat rate. He said, and I kid you not, "The insurance company said you would understand". Never mind I did contact this tow company last week and was quoted $3.50/mile plus $50 hook up fee for the tow.
Time to pay so the kid puts me on hold to get ready for the credit card number, I give him the number and he confirms the amount $305.13. WHAT!
$100 more in an instant. When I questioned him about the amount he all but called me a liar saying he said $305.13 but he put me on hold then came back saying his "supervisor" okayed the original price of $205.13. His attitude and the raised price started me fuming so I told him to forget the whole thing and I'll find another tow company. His attitude and demeanor inspired no confidence whatsoever and contributed to me telling him to forget the tow.
So I call Hagerty again, explain what is going on and how soon I need the tow. Twenty minutes later Hagerty calls back saying the soonest someone can get there is 1 to 2 hours and yes their charge is $300+.
I figured out what is going on. Hagerty pays a contract price but not the full price, leaving me to pick up the difference. At the original $per mile charge, it would have been cheaper to simply pay for the tow out of pocket and see what Hagerty would reimburse me for.
Now what? Call ECGS and set up a new appt then drive down the day before, take the train back home then the train back to Raleigh to pick it up when it is finished. Why does everything have to be so hard?
I asked for the tow company to pick up at 6:15. So at 6:20 I receive a call wanting to confirm the tow. We go through the details and I'm told my portion for the "overages" is $205.13. Okay, I expected some overages so when I questioned the amount I was told in their conversation with Hagerty the 69.5 miles ballooned to 82 miles and this was their flat rate. He said, and I kid you not, "The insurance company said you would understand". Never mind I did contact this tow company last week and was quoted $3.50/mile plus $50 hook up fee for the tow.
Time to pay so the kid puts me on hold to get ready for the credit card number, I give him the number and he confirms the amount $305.13. WHAT!
$100 more in an instant. When I questioned him about the amount he all but called me a liar saying he said $305.13 but he put me on hold then came back saying his "supervisor" okayed the original price of $205.13. His attitude and the raised price started me fuming so I told him to forget the whole thing and I'll find another tow company. His attitude and demeanor inspired no confidence whatsoever and contributed to me telling him to forget the tow.So I call Hagerty again, explain what is going on and how soon I need the tow. Twenty minutes later Hagerty calls back saying the soonest someone can get there is 1 to 2 hours and yes their charge is $300+.
I figured out what is going on. Hagerty pays a contract price but not the full price, leaving me to pick up the difference. At the original $per mile charge, it would have been cheaper to simply pay for the tow out of pocket and see what Hagerty would reimburse me for.
Now what? Call ECGS and set up a new appt then drive down the day before, take the train back home then the train back to Raleigh to pick it up when it is finished. Why does everything have to be so hard?
Ugh. I feel your pain. I took the expensive route to not have to deal with tow companies...buy truck and trailer to tow 40. Then pay $80 month to store said trailer.
Sounds like a headache! I realize you're not just looking to shell out more money but AAA Gold membership allows up to 100 miles per tow and Premier allows one tow per year up to 200 miles, 100 miles for any other tow. Any miles above allotment is a flat $4/mile. If you're just covering yourself, Gold is about $100 for new signup, $130 for Premier. Either of these options is cheaper than your current situation and then you'll have coverage for a year plus the other AAA benefits.
- Thread starter
- #32
I'm going to take the cheap route and simply drive it down the day prior to installation and go get it the day after installation. Amtrak is only $17.50 one way plus the Uber drive.
Plus...train rides are cool!!
I'd say selectable also. The Detroit in the bronco's rear isn't what I'd call optimum for street driving. They can't really be beat in the dirt also, but if memory serves yours is too nice to be a hardcore wheeler?
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- Thread starter
- #35
Not a hardcore wheeler but just want to be prepared for what a trail might have in store. Thanks for the compliment. I really enjoy the truck!
- Thread starter
- #37
On its way to ECGS. AAA was so much easier to deal with for the tow, and cheaper.
- Thread starter
- #38
Picked up the 40 yesterday afternoon and drove it home on business 70 to avoid the interstate. Nice trip. East Coast Gear Supply is pretty good to deal with, the 40 was out front and ready to go and I did have to ask for the old differential. One things that concerned me was they didn't install a new ring and pinion as I requested, they simply reused the old parts. I expected new parts, I did get get new bearings, seals and other small parts and since I was sent the break-in procedure for the new ring and pinion I was ready to follow the instructions to the letter. However, I did call this morning to ask about the invoice, it was sent to my email and was assured I would get a refund for the ring and pinion I was charged for but didn't receive.
So I'm almost ready for the Relic Run now, all that needs to be done is chase down the air leak I now have somewhere in the system. Evidently their technician didn't check for leaks and now I have to. The compressor cycled 5 times on the 2 hour trip home and is totally empty this morning.
So I'm almost ready for the Relic Run now, all that needs to be done is chase down the air leak I now have somewhere in the system. Evidently their technician didn't check for leaks and now I have to. The compressor cycled 5 times on the 2 hour trip home and is totally empty this morning.
That's averaging cycling about every 24 minutes. Honestly, that's not too bad. No air system is gonna hold 100% of the pressure without leaking out somewhere over time. If the compressor is cycling every few minutes, I'd definitely be concerned, but I wouldn't be too concerned about a cycle every 24 minutes or so.
I assume you didn't have the lockers on while driving home, so if you do want to check, the "leak" is gonna be on the compressor itself, like around the tank cover that screws on or where the solenoids screw into the tank.
The real test that I would run is to turn on the compressor, lock the locker and see how often the compressor cycles with the locker locked. Maybe drive it around a little on loose gravel, just to have things moving around in the diff. That's when you'll find out if there's a leak in the diff itself or the line going to the locker.
In the end, if the compressor only cycles about every 20 minutes or more, I'd call that pretty good. I think mine cycles about every 20-25 minutes on the 4Runner.
I assume you didn't have the lockers on while driving home, so if you do want to check, the "leak" is gonna be on the compressor itself, like around the tank cover that screws on or where the solenoids screw into the tank.
The real test that I would run is to turn on the compressor, lock the locker and see how often the compressor cycles with the locker locked. Maybe drive it around a little on loose gravel, just to have things moving around in the diff. That's when you'll find out if there's a leak in the diff itself or the line going to the locker.
In the end, if the compressor only cycles about every 20 minutes or more, I'd call that pretty good. I think mine cycles about every 20-25 minutes on the 4Runner.
- Thread starter
- #40
Thanks for the recommendation. Once the weather turns a little drier I will take some soapy water out to the compressor to see where it is leaking. Prior to the locker install the compressor was only attached to the horns and would leak down enough to cycle it about every two weeks of no use.