Light Racing 100 Series/LX470 UCA Group Buy @ Metal Tech

[spressomon]

Just curious, what are your valving numbers?

<edit...after pulling front 2.0 Fox shocks for R&R> I'm currently running #80 for compression and #60 rebound from the Fox 2.0 Series Valve Specs.

This stack performed very well on and off-road when I had the TJM T3C bumper up front...but since installing the Slee Blueberry the additional weight of this bumper makes the front shock tune a little lacking. I'm way overdue to overhaul the shocks...and will revalve soon.

 

[spressomon]

Now that we're getting the shock travel and position data publicly nailed down...it would be great if one of the shock mfgs took this and designed an internal bypass shock with position specific tune for us...that would really get us to a very nice street & trail set-up.


Hey...no harm in dreaming eh?!

 

[LT]

Idk about. The SPC ball joint only has 30 degrees of articulation from center. SDCs ball joint looks very close to that limit.

On the FJ Cruiser/Tacoma/4Runner the coilovers have right around the same shock piston travel numbers as the 100 series shock and the LR UCA's are not close to being maxed out at full droop.

 

[spressomon]

Ok...this thread has been good on a couple different fronts but the shock related posts are definitely a diversion/hijack. It would be good, assuming others agree, if TM/e9999 could break out the shock specific posts into a new thread...maybe title it "All Things Aftermarket (or racing style) Shocks"...or something similar.

While on subject of the mono-tube/racing style shocks (Fox, King, Radflo, etc.): Sooner or later you're going to need and want a small nitrogen tank for these shocks. Why?

Well if you need to overhaul them, which you will need to do once in awhile, you'll need to release the nitrogen before disassembly and then subsequently charge the overhauled shock with nitrogen.

But in addition to periodic shock maintenance a nitrogen tank set-up also serves a couple other purposes too: If you need to remove the shocks, for whatever reason, typically the easiest, and in some cases the only, way to remove the shock from the rig is to release the nitrogen. Yeah...bingo: You'll need to recharge the shock from the nitrogen tank upon re-installation of the shock on the rig.

I also, due to somewhat significant variable cargo loads and/or trailer tongue weight, adjust the nitrogen pressure on my rear 2.5" shocks. You can vary the nitrogen pressure, generally from 150-200psi to 300-ish psi to help the coil springs with a little extra lift/leveling; I've run my rear Radflos at 400psi...without issue.

Likewise, for top mounted remote hose to remote canister models, you'll also get a commensurate increase in effective compression damping...which has come in very handy when I was pulling a trailer but also when I'm loaded to the max for a multi-week tour (a bottom exit, from the main shock to the remote, will result in an increase in rebound damping...with increased nitrogen pressure...).

FWIW I originally thought I had to have the high zoot (read: expensive) special no-loss valve for the nitro set-up. But in the end just jamming a typical schrader style valve you would use to inflate your tires gets the job done...arguably just as well...cheaper and faster too.

Thanks Mxndrnks for reminding me to post this nitrogen tank 411!

 

[oysterhead43]

I'm cheesy enough to prefer a flashier UCA, like the TC.

Spend all that cash on hardware, might as well look different than stock. Why paint it black?

The TCs and Kings on my Taco were a great conversation starter.

 

[OregonLC]

FWIW I originally thought I had to have the high zoot (read: expensive) special no-loss valve for the nitro set-up. But in the end just jamming a typical schrader style valve you would use to inflate your tires gets the job done...arguably just as well...cheaper and faster too.

Thanks Mxndrnks for reminding me to post this nitrogen tank 411!

I had read/heard that its very difficult to achieve factory pressure without said device because of the small volume of the chamber and the uncontrolled (albeit brief) leak rate of the connect/disconnect). Have no idea if that's true, but sounds like you've had success otherwise?

 

[Mxndrnks]

I had read/heard that its very difficult to achieve factory pressure without said device because of the small volume of the chamber and the uncontrolled (albeit brief) leak rate of the connect/disconnect). Have no idea if that's true, but sounds like you've had success otherwise?

Both spressso and I have had plenty of success.


...via IH8MUD app

 

[perrobravo]

It will be interesting to see if that number changes with the new Icons!

Posted this in the Icon shock thread, but thought I'd follow up here. After installing the 2.5" Icons, droop is at 24.5". I didn't measure before changing the UCAs, but using the before numbers Rover4 posted (23 5/16), that's over an inch of additional droop.

 

[Fitzgerald]

$563.99 @ METAL TECH VS $449.12 @ ULTRAREV

That`s quite a difference to pay.

Noticed some wear on my front tires after the local Toyota dealership "did their best" on my alignment after a recent OME lift. So, I just picked up a set of the SPC's from UltraRev for less than $420 shipped (using their coupon code).

 

[Fitzgerald]

Noticed some wear on my front tires after the local Toyota dealership "did their best" on my alignment after a recent OME lift. So, I just picked up a set of the SPC's from UltraRev for less than $420 shipped (using their coupon code).

 

[smileyboy]

Looking at picking up some UCAs... Can someone inform me as to why I would want light racing vs Just Differentals or......?

 

[paflytyer]

Looking at picking up some UCAs... Can someone inform me as to why I would want light racing vs Just Differentals or Slees?

No such thing as Slee UCA's

 

[benc]

Looking at picking up some UCAs... Can someone inform me as to why I would want light racing vs Just Differentals or......?

The uniball upper control arms make a lot of noise and you constantly have to oil them. They also seam to ware out quick. With the light racing or spc (which are the same as light racing) use a heavy duty high angle ball joint. They also give you more adjustment for alignment. I have had both and prefer the light racing or spc over the uniball!

 

[paflytyer]

Edit....Too much hijacking

 

[Pork Soda]

Hmmm.... UCAs were next on list. Guess I'll hold out to see all of the options.

 

[spressomon]

Just Diffirentials has a new UCA coming out that will likely top them all. @justdifferentials

Inner bushing arrangement and how caster adjustment is made and/or effects bushing flanges will be of interest. Still room for improvement in the front UCA department.

And, really putting the beg on Santa Claus with this one , it would be great to have a matched set of front LCAs with corrected geometry! Hey...no harm in dreaming, right?!

 

[paflytyer]

EDIT.... Because i inadvertently hijacked this thread.

Slee doesn't make UCA'S, but sells SPC brand.

Just Diffirentials makes their own (2 types: Uniball and sealed ball-joint)
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/ju...and-cruiser-uzj100-build-thread.827880/page-2

Metal Tech is running a super sale on the SPC UCA'S right now that makes them very affordable. https://www.facebook.com/Metaltech4...90804635893/10152521902635894/?type=1&theater