Lift while keeping AHC and using diff drop? (1 Viewer)

[jumptrader]

I love the AHC but also want to do a lift without stressing the CV axles.

Would a lift using the diff drop, while keeping the original AHC work? I don't fully understand how the drivetrain is attached to the chassis - but thought I'd ask

Thank you

 

[JunkCrzr89]

You need to read @suprarx7nut posts.

 

[suprarx7nut]

I love the AHC but also want to do a lift without stressing the CV axles.

Would a lift using the diff drop, while keeping the original AHC work? I don't fully understand how the drivetrain is attached to the chassis - but thought I'd ask

Thank you

Why do you want a lift? AHC provides 90% of the lift of all the "lifts" out there on the 100 series straight from the factory.

You can "lift" an AHC vehicle lots of ways, but figuring out why you want to is the first step in determining what path to take (the likely answer of course being that you really don't need a lift the built in lift you already have).

 

[jumptrader]

Why do you want a lift? AHC provides 90% of the lift of all the "lifts" out there on the 100 series straight from the factory.

You can "lift" an AHC vehicle lots of ways, but figuring out why you want to is the first step in determining what path to take (the likely answer of course being that you really don't need a lift the built in lift you already have).

Honestly, I just like the look of a lifted truck. I use my truck as a daily driver and have gone overland camping just a handful of times.

My main concern with the AHC sensor lift is (in order of concern):
1. The CV axles will be operating at a greater than designed angle (especially at highway speeds)
2. The AHC system will not have has much range before reaching its extension limits (if neutral is adjusted to be a little higher than usual with a sensor lift)
3. The AHC system will be overloaded (which could be addressed with either new springs or spring spacers)

To address #1, I assumed a diff drop would bring the CV axles back to the ideal operating angle. Is that true? And would I introduce other new issues?

Thank you..

PS: I use one of your Yota key replacements.. and the valet person last week told me it was genius since he has seen a handful of broken key cases while working there!

 

[augustwest]

Honestly, I just like the look of a lifted truck. I use my truck as a daily driver and have gone overland camping just a handful of times.

My main concern with the AHC sensor lift is (in order of concern):
1. The CV axles will be operating at a greater than designed angle (especially at highway speeds)
2. The AHC system will not have has much range before reaching its extension limits (if neutral is adjusted to be a little higher than usual with a sensor lift)
3. The AHC system will be overloaded (which could be addressed with either new springs or spring spacers)

To address #1, I assumed a diff drop would bring the CV axles back to the ideal operating angle. Is that true? And would I introduce other new issues?

Thank you..

PS: I use one of your Yota key replacements.. and the valet person last week told me it was genius since he has seen a handful of broken key cases while working there!

Any lift, AHC or otherwise, will change the geometry of the CV axles. As far as I know, the front diff drop is the most common (only?) solution. Slee sells one for $275.

 

[JunkCrzr89]

Personally, I think a diff drop is useless. Money would be better spent on new CV axles, IMO.

 

[turdfurguson]

I have torn a few oem cv boots over the years from lifting, and was considering a diff drop since I'm getting tired of the messy boot jobs.

Are there no significant gains made with these drop brackets? Or is it just not enough to justify the cost? I just haven't seen one installed in real life. Are there any high angle cv alternatives?

Personally, I think a diff drop is useless. Money would be better spent on new CV axles, IMO.

 

[JunkCrzr89]

Are there no significant gains made with these drop brackets?

They’re 20mm lower than the factory crossmember. Most folks are “lifting” 50-60mm above factory ride height.

Or is it just not enough to justify the cost?

At $275-300, the minimal 20mm drop is not worth the cost, IMO. Others will disagree.

Are there any high angle cv alternatives?

RCV used to make a boot that they claimed was for high angle applications, but I’ve never used it, and I think they quit producing it for the 100 because of lack of interest.

 

[augustwest]

They’re 20mm lower than the factory crossmember. Most folks are “lifting” 50-60mm above factory ride height.

At $275-300, the minimal 20mm drop is not worth the cost, IMO. Others will disagree.

RCV used to make a boot that they claimed was for high angle applications, but I’ve never used it, and I think they quit producing it for the 100 because of lack of interest.

Yeah, I have one still in the bubble wrap sitting in my garage. Haven’t decided whether I’m going to install it or not.

 

[suprarx7nut]

Honestly, I just like the look of a lifted truck. I use my truck as a daily driver and have gone overland camping just a handful of times.

My main concern with the AHC sensor lift is (in order of concern):
1. The CV axles will be operating at a greater than designed angle (especially at highway speeds)
2. The AHC system will not have has much range before reaching its extension limits (if neutral is adjusted to be a little higher than usual with a sensor lift)
3. The AHC system will be overloaded (which could be addressed with either new springs or spring spacers)

To address #1, I assumed a diff drop would bring the CV axles back to the ideal operating angle. Is that true? And would I introduce other new issues?

Thank you..

PS: I use one of your Yota key replacements.. and the valet person last week told me it was genius since he has seen a handful of broken key cases while working there!

If your concern is strictly with looks I can't help much. I personally think that's dumb, haha. Don't mean to offend. As a mechanical engineer and designer the rule should always be form follows function unless we're talking about artwork. The 100 isn't art, no matter how hard you try. A lift is detrimental in every way with exception of off road obstacles. Learn to embrace the beauty of stock height!

Your concerns are all correct. And all good reasons why lifting the vehicle is probably not the most value-add thing you can do to it.

But, if you were to lift it I offer the following advice.

1. Do the diff drop. It's relatively very inexpensive. One CV job (one side) is worth roughly $1k in my head. It's a $500 part that takes a few hours minimum. The diff drop is <$300 and objectively lessens wear on the axle bearings. Ounce of prevention and all...
2. True. Good reason not to lift.
3. This part you can easily alleviate. New springs in back (or spacers) and adjust torsion bars up front. You're creating some work for yourself, but there's little detriment to the AHC system when this is done properly.

Thanks for the Yota key purchase. That's what allows me to spend so much time hanging out in this cool community, so it's greatly appreciated.

Yeah, I have one still in the bubble wrap sitting in my garage. Haven’t decided whether I’m going to install it or not.

If you're lifted, I think it's relatively cheap insurance/reliability improvement. Increasing the axle angles isn't helping anything.

 

[jLB]

Honestly, I just like the look of a lifted truck. I use my truck as a daily driver and have gone overland camping just a handful of times.

My main concern with the AHC sensor lift is (in order of concern):
.
2. The AHC system will not have has much range before reaching its extension limits (if neutral is adjusted to be a little higher than usual with a sensor lift)
.

I assume that you're choosing to keep AHC because of its ride quality, want to do a sensor lift because it seems relatively cheap and it is aesthetically pleasing to you.

In my experience, AHC, in its stock configuration, has ~3-3.25" of droop (front suspension). Every bit of lift that you dial in with a sensor lift, reduces the available droop. Most of the (static) lift kits for the 100 series (IFS) recommend leaving a minimum of 50-70mm (2-2.75") of droop, and ride quality really suffers if you ignore this recommendation. Considering a stock droop of 3-3.25" and an absolute minimum recommended droop of 2-2.75", that leaves a range of 0.25-1.25" of lift, (let's center it and call it ~0.75") before you start chasing shock extensions, aftermarket UCAs, etc, to fix the ride quality issues that you've caused by "lifting" your vehicle.

 

[J1000]

Do a body lift and press H every time you park and you'll get the results you're looking for.