Builds Lexus LX450 Cummins 6bt/NV4500 swap (2 Viewers)

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Today I got the rear main on and the new oil pan installed. I wanted to get the timing cover on as well, that is where everything went pear shaped.

That damn crank seal is a bitch to install. I have likely ruined a $70 seal. So frustrating, I have never had such problems.

I did pick up 12 pacbrake valve springs and the pacbrake Governor spring kit today. Got a smoking deal on them so hard to say no ;).

Before I put the pan back on I took a good look around. If I did not know this engine had 200k kms on it I would say it looks new. I'm absolutely blown away how clean the inside of this engine is. I also turned it over all the cylinders looking from the bottom up look great no scoring or wear at all.

This week I hope to get this damn front crank seal taken care of and the cover back on.


They are very annoying and easy to mess up. Better now than in the truck!
 
They are very annoying and easy to mess up. Better now than in the truck!

The issue is getting the seal to start evenly, every time I try and start it will pop in on one side. Tried 20 times, I have the seal in the deep freeze and plan to heat the cover slightly. The seal ring is still unbent and not damaged that I can see just need handled a lot. Hope I can get it to work, it's the Victor reins one with the sleeve....... Of course I put the sleeve on first even though my crank is in worn. Can't see how to get it off now if I want to just go with a Cummins seal.
 
The issue is getting the seal to start evenly, every time I try and start it will pop in on one side. Tried 20 times, I have the seal in the deep freeze and plan to heat the cover slightly. The seal ring is still unbent and not damaged that I can see just need handled a lot. Hope I can get it to work, it's the Victor reins one with the sleeve....... Of course I put the sleeve on first even though my crank is in worn. Can't see how to get it off now if I want to just go with a Cummins seal.

Yep, totally they are a pain! Its not just you.
 
Well tonight I was lucky enough that my daycare giver was willing to keep my son for an extra hour tonight. The frozen seal and slightly warmed up housing allowed the seal to slip right in. Once that was done I easily slipped the front timing cover back on. After that was done I started looking at the turbo side of the engine. Mainly just need to paint things there.

I also came up with a plan to modify my crank damper to supply 3 pulses per revolution. I'm going to play with that and a few other messy fab parts once I fully have the engine and parts all back on the engine.

I feel like I'm finally making some progress. This weekend I hope to get the pacbrake valve springs in and the gov springs.

Once that is done I will start on the alternator lowering braket. As well as the crank damper mod.

I had planed on actually starting the engine installation the first week of March but I need to push it back a month. The money I had set asside for transmission and clutch I just spent on a car for my wife......or to flip ;)
 
Today was spent working on cleaning up and painting the turbo side of the block. Got that all done and exhaust manifold bolted back up. I got the vacume pump resealed and both vacation pump and PS pump painted. I also worked on the alternator bracket trying to lower the overall hight of it. Had good success, I was able to reduce its hight by almost 2" and it now sits about 1" below the valve cover hight.



Only concern I have with it is the AC fittings contacting the lower braket.







Tomorrow I'm going to pick up some valve seals so I am all ready to go when the Snap-on baring tool arrives next week. Then I can put the valve springs in and new seals. I need to wait to get the baring tool to tighten the injection pump nut as well. Once thoes things are done I will officially be done on the engine!

When I get to the shop tomorrow I hope to pull the NV4500 into the shop and pop the top cover off and take a look it.
 
So not a lot to update, ran into issues with things and have not got anything done in a couple weeks. Have not got anything on the engine done, have everything there ready to go.

I did get my flywheel back with the new sealed bearing pilot. I also got a south bend clutch. I got the 0090 good for 350hp and 750ft/lbs far more than I plan.

I did get the Dodge NV4500 pulled into the shop....... This is where things go sideways. I opened the top cover and found some specks of surface rust on the gears. It was stored under cover with all the holes plugged. I then drained the fluid and got 3L of water out and about 2L of oil. Not good, amazingly the only damage appears to be the little bit of rust on a couple gears. Unfortunately it appears bad enough that I'm not going to be able to use the gears that have it. The water did not get into it since I have had it, unfortunate but it was cheap so not a huge loss. I'll likely keeping it for spares or a future build....

So I looked at my late model GM NV4500, pulled the top cover and it was clean and looked in much better shape. I then pulled the Dodge input shaft to see if it would fit in the GM and it did no issues. Interestingly the gear cluster appears to have some different sized gears. I found this intresting site I thought they all had the same gears after 95. The GM trans is out of a 2000 3/4 ton 6.0L truck Nd the Dodge trans was out of a 95 Ram.

At any rate besides the small input shaft and the spline count on the main shaft (output) it's the same size components. So I'm going to take the GM NV4500 with the Dodge input shaft, the diesel adapters output shaft and Dodge tail housing to be rebuilt on Friday.

Rust:









New pilot:



Clutch:



Inside the GM NV4500 nice and clean.

 
If that rust in the pics is the worst of it, I bet you could clean it up.

Thats all of it. I'm sure I could too but having the other one with no rust at all and in overall better shape I'll just use it.
 
Not arguing with your choice to use the cleaner trans, but that rust wouldn't bother me for even one second. And I'm picky!

I'm very jealous of this project, and I really like that you're taking the time to do it right.
 
If the gear faces aren't pitted, then that should clear up within a few miles of driving. I'd be more worried about the bearings with that much water sitting in the case.
 
i have most of the internal parts/gears if your needing parts. all from a 98 dodge nv4500 trans I parted out that had syncos going and the 5th gear splines very worn 235k. Case, input, cover, and idler gears sold but believe the rest is still there. been meaning to put them up on E-bay but have never gotten around to it.

and to second another comment, i wouldn't think twice about running those gears after checking out the bearing condition/replacing
 
Friday I took the rear housing off my Dodge nv4500 to investigate that route further. Turned out 5th gear had some issues that affected everything in the trans. I poped a PTO side cover off and the magnet had about 3/4" of metal paste on it....... Now I know why. Bottom of transmission was full of metal fillings and bits and pieces of rather expensive looking bits.




So Friday afternoon I took the good condition late modle GM nv4500 into the transmission shop. I also took in the Dodge input and Main shaft. The transmission guy I talked too had 3 other nv4500's he was rebuilding too. They have a good Rep and come highly recommended on a local Dodge forum.

Guy knows his stuff posed the top cover off and s*** it looked in good shape. Said it looked like a late modle based off the 5.07 Rev gear. Meaning it's the same internal as a 98+ Dodge NV4500. Did not seem to have any issues with the custom main shaft or my and with the transmission.

Hope to get it back end of the week or early next. Once that is done I really am on the home stretch of getting ready. Everything will be ready to go just waiting on the actual swap to get started.
 
Last night I got my snap on baring tool. So today once I got done doing some repairs on my other car it was Cummins O'Clock.

I started by getting the pump nut torqued and ready to go. I the got the flywheel torqued. It was late in the day but figured it was a good chance to get started on swaping over the 12 valve springs and valve seals. We'll it was far easier than I had thought it would be. Got done in 1.5 hours start to finish.

This Took tech tool makes this job cake! Thanks Cimarron!!





New fore old aft.





Key to sucsess.... Organization.



Got her all done and now all that is left on the engine pre swap is the 4k GSK.

Dustin's nv4500 to HF2AH adapter has a flaw that pumps all the oil from the trans to the t case. An updated one was to be shipped to myself and another local 1.5 weeks ago now and nothing yet. If it does not show soon I'll fix the flaw and just use what I have. Trans should be done now, just need to get in and pick it up.
 
Looking good. How did the barring tool work? I rotatated the engine using the alternator pulley since I didn't have it.
 
I like the Tork Tool lineup, I have one of their pullers to install a VP44 or P7100 injection pump. I have used it to replace the VP44 on my ISB.
 
Looking good. How did the barring tool work? I rotatated the engine using the alternator pulley since I didn't have it.

I liked it, only issue is its not a tight fit like starter gear on the flywheel. It's great to turn the engine over but was a bit challenging when I had to torque the injection pump nut.
 
Transmission back from rebuilt good as new. Also got word my updated t case adapter showed up today as well. I'm officially ready to start swaping. Just need to put in 4k GSK's and she is all ready.
 
I am away on a cruise for another day or so, but haven't heard squeak about my updated adapter. It better be there when I get home on Thursday as I want to swing my motor in this weekend.

You don't have much left to do before starting the swap, when do you plan to pull your motor out?
 
I am away on a cruise for another day or so, but haven't heard squeak about my updated adapter. It better be there when I get home on Thursday as I want to swing my motor in this weekend.

You don't have much left to do before starting the swap, when do you plan to pull your motor out?

I have a week of vacation booked first week in April, plan to pull the old set up and get it to Greg then get the Cummins stabbed in. If all goes well I want to start it by the end of the week. Then been on the road a few weeks later.
 

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