Builds LEXpedition Overland Build Thread (1 Viewer)

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Thanks. I've been enjoying it even if my wife is not. ;)

I did get my ARB skid plates installed. Relatively easy. The only thing I'm not happy about but unavoidable (as far as I know) is that I'll need to take the front (and heaviest one) off whenever I need to swap out the oil filter. Think I can drain the oil without taking the middle skid off, but don't think it'll be very easy to do the filter itself.

Also, got a cheap light bar installed on the Prinsu rack. I like the slim, almost stealth look and figure at $80 I can replace it yearly if need to and I'll replace the truck long before I spend enough on cheap light bars to pay for a Rigid one.

View attachment 2547565

I have bigger needs now like bumpers. Especially after I tore up my front bumper a bit wheeling on New Year's day. I made the mistake of going out with the STLCA group which is mostly 80's and 100's that have been lifted and running 39" or larger tires. I caught a big rock on the bottom of the front bumper and scratched it pretty good. Honestly, don't even remember doing it and didn't notice it until I washed all the mud off 5 days later. Was quite a shock when the mud came off and I saw it. Also, scratched my passenger side wheels pretty good around the lip. Didn't see those until the mud was gone as well. Nothing earth-shattering but still a good lesson on what rocks can do if you're not paying attention.

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Nice to see the 200 getting some battle scars. Breaking in those skids!

I installed my arb skids a few weeks back and am curious if you encountered the same thing I did during the installation.

I noticed that the 4 spacers that go between the transmission skid bracket and crossmember pushed the bracket back towards the Transfer case Skid to the point that there is barely any space between the bracket and t-case skid.

I ended up using smaller spacers (extra thick washers) to increase the clearance between the transfer case skid and the transmission skid mounting plate.

Would you be able to post up a couple pictures of your T-case skid and the area around where the transmission bracket Connects to the cross member?
 
Nice to see the 200 getting some battle scars. Breaking in those skids!

I installed my arb skids a few weeks back and am curious if you encountered the same thing I did during the installation.

I noticed that the 4 spacers that go between the transmission skid bracket and crossmember pushed the bracket back towards the Transfer case Skid to the point that there is barely any space between the bracket and t-case skid.

I ended up using smaller spacers (extra thick washers) to increase the clearance between the transfer case skid and the transmission skid mounting plate.

Would you be able to post up a couple pictures of your T-case skid and the area around where the transmission bracket Connects to the cross member?
I don’t recall having to do anything “custom”. Not sure when I’ll be able to get back under due to local weather. Remind me in a few days.
 
Hello, I like your set-up. What are the wheel and tire dimensions? I am gonna use my 2020 Lexus LX570 mostly for towing a 20ft Airstream, but also exploring off the beaten path. Not rock crawling. I don't want to have to adjust or lift anything and would like the spare to fit under the LX.I would appreciate any feedback
At that point I had 285/55/20 KO2s on the stock wheels. It was a good setup for stock but I think there may be better options if you are sticking with the stock wheels.
 
Finally got my CVT Hybrid Shast tent a few weeks ago. For some reason, the Icemagedon 2021 has kept me from getting to try it out yet. Still working on getting it raised a bit off of the rack. The new hybrid tents from CVT are pretty cool in that they fold out like a traditional softshell RTT but they have a hard top with some 8020 cargo bars that will hold up to 150lbs. The challenge is that the soft part of the cover that wraps the sides also wraps under the bottom and is supposed to clip to the bottom of the tent. However, with tent flush to the rack, there is not enough room to reach under and clip/unclip the straps.

Currently, I'm using some cam straps just as a precaution to keep the cover tight around the edges. I've ordered some of the Prinsu top rack feet which I believe I can turn upside down and attach the tent to them. They are similar to the roof mounting feet but add an additional .5" of height over the official feet that are only 1" tall.

Shasta.JPG
 
In the planning stages of my rear cargo organization/storage solution. Below are the plans I've developed. I'm hoping to do a build thread/video and if it's successful, I'll actually post it. ;)

Open to recommendations or "You definitely don't want to do THAT because when you hit a bump the fridge will jump out and puncture the gas tank causing a gigantic fireball!" type of advice. Planning on adding drawers to the plan next. Have not added some details like straps to tie the fridge down to the slide.

Base Platform:
1614223821293.png


The holes are for bolting to the existing holes for the rear seats.
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Fridge slide/cabinet:

1614223894976.png


Planning on utilizing the Superstrut stuff I found at Lowes and was using for my DIY roof rack rails prior to the Prinsu. Also, planning on wrapping in peg board currently to help with airflow and keep things from falling against it. Also, will allow me to stack stuff on top if needed. May put some of the L-Track on top.
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Fridge slide extended:

1614224069711.png

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Black HDPE Table that slides under the fridge base to hold my stove or whatever else.

1614224920095.png

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Close up of slide and table:

1614224559248.png
 
Finally got my CVT Hybrid Shast tent a few weeks ago. For some reason, the Icemagedon 2021 has kept me from getting to try it out yet. Still working on getting it raised a bit off of the rack. The new hybrid tents from CVT are pretty cool in that they fold out like a traditional softshell RTT but they have a hard top with some 8020 cargo bars that will hold up to 150lbs. The challenge is that the soft part of the cover that wraps the sides also wraps under the bottom and is supposed to clip to the bottom of the tent. However, with tent flush to the rack, there is not enough room to reach under and clip/unclip the straps.

Currently, I'm using some cam straps just as a precaution to keep the cover tight around the edges. I've ordered some of the Prinsu top rack feet which I believe I can turn upside down and attach the tent to them. They are similar to the roof mounting feet but add an additional .5" of height over the official feet that are only 1" tall.

View attachment 2595640
Really awesome tent and your truck is looking great.

Are you going to give CVT feedback about this? I am sure their engineers will want some real world feedback and I suspect this will not be an uncommon combination.
 
Really awesome tent and your truck is looking great.

Are you going to give CVT feedback about this? I am sure their engineers will want some real world feedback and I suspect this will not be an uncommon combination.
Yeah, once I get the tent in its final resting place I’m planning on doing a full review. Overall, I’m impressed with quality and included accessories. Their website could definitely use some work but the tents seem to be high quality.
 
Looks like a great start on the storage solution.
 
Took a short camping trip to the Land Between the Lakes area. Was a great trip to shake out a few bugs and came away with a good list of lessons learned for future overlanding trips.

Here’s a video if you’re interested.

The new CVT hybrid tent worked great. Still working on the setup and takedown but it’s getting quicker. Hit a few challenging spots on the trails but the challenge was more mental than physical. The truck handled them with ease giving me more confidence for the trails we’re planning to hit this summer in Colorado.
 
Pretty awesome campsite you found there!
 
Pretty awesome campsite you found there!
Yeah, couldn't ask for much better. There is a good bit of traffic on the main lake, including some large barges but the bay I was on was far enough back so that even the fishermen blasting by in their bass boats weren't that annoying.

One advantage of the new hybrid RTT's from CVT is that they come with crossbars on the top and a cargo capacity of up to 150 lbs. So, I could strap our kayaks on top when the mood strikes and hit this campsite. Of course, once I put kayaks on I'm going to be looking at close to 10-11 feet in total height so I won't be exploring too many trails but this one was pretty clear to the campsite.
 
A few updates to share. Probably the one I'm most excited about is the install (finally) of my Voswitch UV100 8 Gang Switch Panel. I've had it sitting in the garage for a few months and finally got some time to do the install. I'm very impressed with the quality of the parts as well as the many extraneous parts included for attachment options. The panel itself is made from metal (aluminum?) and is waterproof. The power module that goes under the hood is also "waterproof" but that may be a stretch. I would say it's more like VERY water-resistant but would not stand up to being submerged. Similar to the S Pod, you can attach whatever you want to the power module, slap a sticker on one of the buttons and you have a custom switch panel.

The install went much smoother than expected. I was able to use a couple of heavy brackets that were in a box to attach it to the inside of the left front fender, right next to the master brake cylinder. I'd already poked a hole in the rubber seal to run the wire into the cab so that part went surprisingly quick. Wiring up the power and ground was straightforward. It includes a positive power supply with an inline fuse already installed inline so I just needed to attach it to my positive terminal and then find a good grounding spot. At that point, all you need to do is run your positive wire from your accessory into the module and attach it to one of the terminals. Grounding for the accessory itself happens wherever you would normally choose to ground it.

IMG_8022.jpg


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Currently, I only have my onboard compressor and lightbar hooked up to it but have room for 6 more accessories. Think the next one will be the passenger seat ejector. ;)

Some of the things that I really like about this unit:
  1. Price is right - $250
  2. Quality components
  3. Not "solid state" and the relays and fuses are easily replaced with parts you can buy at just about any auto parts store
  4. Includes the option to configure it as "switchable" meaning you can set it up to only work when the key is turned or at any time, regardless of the state of the "key"
  5. Includes low battery detection to turn the accessories off when the voltage gets too low
  6. Includes numerous options and all the pieces necessary for attaching the switch panel including flush mount, surface mount, and even includes RAM mounting options
I surface-mounted mine on the little drawer below and to the left of the steering wheel in my LX. I was even able to retain the functionality of the drawer itself.

IMG_8020.jpg


1619066943312.png
 
In the planning stages of my rear cargo organization/storage solution. Below are the plans I've developed. I'm hoping to do a build thread/video and if it's successful, I'll actually post it. ;)

Open to recommendations or "You definitely don't want to do THAT because when you hit a bump the fridge will jump out and puncture the gas tank causing a gigantic fireball!" type of advice. Planning on adding drawers to the plan next. Have not added some details like straps to tie the fridge down to the slide.

Base Platform:
View attachment 2595688

The holes are for bolting to the existing holes for the rear seats.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Fridge slide/cabinet:

View attachment 2595690

Planning on utilizing the Superstrut stuff I found at Lowes and was using for my DIY roof rack rails prior to the Prinsu. Also, planning on wrapping in peg board currently to help with airflow and keep things from falling against it. Also, will allow me to stack stuff on top if needed. May put some of the L-Track on top.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Fridge slide extended:

View attachment 2595691
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Black HDPE Table that slides under the fridge base to hold my stove or whatever else.

View attachment 2595723
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Close up of slide and table:

View attachment 2595722
One word of caution about the HDPE, it is slick as snot and may cause more frustration that you’re expecting. I was originally thinking of HDPE for my sliding tray as well but after making folding side shelves for my chuck box out of it I changed my mind. Unless you have it bubble leveled, everything slides right off. Put your beer on it and your beer walks right off the ledge like a lemming :frown:
 
Ran 12V power to the rear to help with charging the Jackery which will, in turn, run my fridge. The overall project went much smoother than normal and was very happy with the results.

I installed 4 "modules" in the removable panel on the left side, above, and to the left of the 110V outlet. They came as a package with a 12V supply, dual USB-A ports, Voltage gauge, power switch, and a faceplate but I decided not to use the latter since the removable panel is curved it would not have been flush. Honestly, I think it looks better without the faceplate. The only remaining thing to do is swap out the power switch that came with the supply for a USB-C module or some sort.

I tied into the cigarette lighter circuit under the driver's side dash with a "tap a circuit" and ran the positive wire down the drive side.

Rear Power 2.JPG


Rear Power 1.JPG


Rear Power 3.JPG
 
Ran 12V power to the rear to help with charging the Jackery which will, in turn, run my fridge. The overall project went much smoother than normal and was very happy with the results.

I installed 4 "modules" in the removable panel on the left side, above, and to the left of the 110V outlet. They came as a package with a 12V supply, dual USB-A ports, Voltage gauge, power switch, and a faceplate but I decided not to use the latter since the removable panel is curved it would not have been flush. Honestly, I think it looks better without the faceplate. The only remaining thing to do is swap out the power switch that came with the supply for a USB-C module or some sort.

I tied into the cigarette lighter circuit under the driver's side dash with a "tap a circuit" and ran the positive wire down the drive side.

View attachment 2662536

View attachment 2662538

View attachment 2662540
How's this working out for you so far?
 
How's this working out for you so far?
Honestly, haven't used that panel with the 4 modules all that much. I ended up putting my fridge on the other side of the truck and the cord was not long enough. I ran another cable to the back on the passenger side that is still in the "dangly, unfinished state" and not fully installed yet but it's working to power the fridge and some USB's as well. That being said, I am still happy to have those extra plugs there on the rare occasion when I need them.
 
Long time, no post.

Finished up my Trail Tailor HWM and Badlands Apex 12K install. Very happy with the results, which included a new bracket for my OBA compressor. Here's the link to that install:


Next on the list is a weBoost cell signal booster.
 

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