Let it Begin! 87 frame off, vortec, H55...

[M1A1cruiser]

Transfer Assembly steps continued

9. Install clutch sleeve

10. Install rear output shaft front bearing retainer
pretty straight forward.

11 install Idler gear
a O ring on front side (I’m still working vertically so it’s the bottom) I put a dab of silicone around here to help seal where I’d buggered it up before.
Toyota P/N: 90301-34004

Thrust washer – it’s pretty obvious but make sure the tab goes where it goes.

Bearings and spacer with a little grease.

Gear. I had to straighten out my oil receiver a little (hopefully it’ll clear everything now!!!!) cause it got a little bent on removal. I don’t know if Toy has new ones, I bought a used one from SOR and it looked about as bad as mine so I stuck with a known (but questionable?) quantity.

12. ATM only

13. Transfer input gear.
The FSM drawing of which side goes toward transmission isn’t that clear. I took photos of teardown too so it wasn’t too tough. I didn’t have the SST but tap, tap, tap with a drift moved the gear.

14. spacer and PTO gear
slipped on; this gear is a bit easier to tell front from back

15 output shaft rear bearing
Bearing number: 6207A4
Toyota P/N: 90363-35013
I DID have the SST (a 36mm socket) required for this ont.

16. Install shift fork shaft. Again, I didn’t break down the shafts.

17. Rear output shaft with shift fork shaft.
This really just sets in there, but getting the shift fork shaft, the front output clutch sleeve and the drive gears all lined up required some patience.

 

[M1A1cruiser]

More Transfer assembly steps

18. Stick on thrust washer. No pics, just line up the tab again.

19. Install transfer rear case.

It was at this point, when I reached for the FIPG and gasket that I noticed the oiler cup sitting, nicely organized in the layout of new pieces, still outside the TRANS/T-case!!!:whoops:

Took it all back down, removed the FIPG, cleaned up the case halves – oh yeah, stuck this little guy in and put it all back together.

Again, it was hard to get the hi/lo shift lever lined up, AND get the idler shaft wedged in its place, AND get the TRANS output bearing in its place but fiddling and wiggling around eventually got it to fall in place.

I was still so frustrated with the oiler that I ceased documenting the next two steps but the FSM is clear. Torque the bolts and drive down the idler shaft (hopefully you read Hugh’s thread - or this one – or read ahead in the FSM to know you were supposed to leave the idler shaft sticking up/out in order to put the second o-ring on. AND THEN smack it into place, and apply the locking tab.

So I still have a couple steps to go before I am done with the T/C mate to the H55F, but they SEEM - famous last words - pretty straightforward. I'll still try to document but I have a couple questions before I go any further.

Next (shorter) question post...

 

[M1A1cruiser]

Questions

So, I've read to put the H55F in neutral and not mess with it after that, and I think/thought I did that.

BUT, upon taking the unit from vertical (a little easier for stacking in the gears in) to horizontal (i.e. as it will run in the truck) the transmission input and output shafts, and thus all the T/C gears were STUCK.

A little 'mud' research pointed to the reverse shift fork head/shaft. I guess it's not uncommon for this to slip forward (down) when one puts the tranny on end to work on the T/C. So, I popped off the backup light switch - I'll snap some pics of my grinder, an extra 1 1/16 socket and my new backup light SST - pushed the shaft back with a screw driver and that 'unlocked' the gears.

But there's still something in there not quite right.

Seems like no matter what position the gear shift is in the shafts turn at the same relative rate? I've seen where Rover67 had a similar issue and it was a jammed 4th gear syncro.

I am scared s***less to take off the top cover (i know less about the insides of a transmission than I did a T/C, but am NOT so excited to learn right now given that it's brand new), but I am afraid this is where I'm heading.

Any advice?

 

[Dynosoar]

Really not a big deal to pop the top off. Just note the position of the shift forks. It is very easy to get to the reverse swinger thingy when the lid is off.

Dyno

 

[M1A1cruiser]

Thanks Dyno. And thanks for the kind words DBLEON - I hope these posts will serve someone. It helps keep me a little focused when I don't know what I am doing!

I'll pull the top cover. Is there anything I should be looking for in particular?

I've got the FSM for the five-speed, but it really only gives a part by part rebuild, not so much trouble shooting.

Thanks,
Trav.-

 

[scrapdaddy]

Hey Travis,

Great job! I'll be useing all this in alittle while. Picked my H55, last week. I wish I could help you, not a sharp tack, when it comes to gear boxes. Good luck and keep taking pictures, you're helping alot of guys, down the road.

 

[OGBeno]

Great documentation Travis. Really nice sir.

 

[rover67]

Don't be afraid to yank the top cover. It is really not that big of a deal...

Once you are in there you'll be able to see the sliders that move back and forth with the shift forks.. similar to your 4wd slider in the t case. Make sure they are all in the centered position between the syncros and the tranny should be in neutral. 1st and 2nd gear has this big assembly instead of a nice little slider, but it works about the same.. it's jsut a lot more brass with big ole syncros and this weird assembly to hold it all together. you'll know how it functions when you see it.

You also need to make sure that the reverse gear is out of the way for it to be in neutral..

Once you have determined that it will go into neutral line up the shift forks and the reverse lever and lower the top cover back down onto it. it is a little tricky to keep it all lined up (especially reverse) but you'll get it. No worries.

 

[rover67]

holy cow, I just went to search for my old thread and it was a pain to find.

anyways, here is a thread with pics of the inside of the tranny and all the steps. you can get an idea of what it all looks like. Of course you'll just be pulling the top cover and really nothing else...

https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/469197-h55f-disassembly-home-made-sst.html

 

[M1A1cruiser]

SLOW SLOW progress

Well between purchasing the 5-speed and getting it buttoned up to the T/C and bringing this

little dude home progress has slowed considerably. I'd love to be able to continue to pour money (like the damn adaptor that has completely halted all forward progress) I need to chill for a while and save my pennies.

So I've spent a little time cleaning up what I can, sealing seams, grinding off the old motor mounts, thinking about wiring, etc:

Only this community will understand the need to grind to metal, prime, seal, prime, paint an area that wasn't really damaged and will never be seen!!!

So, yeah, not a lot to show or tell about but I need to post something for my ego, or Ill feel like the L/C is totally neglected.

Questions to follow soon after we get back from summer travels (Costa Rica - turtles) and I can get the Mark's adaptor and start getting that beast in the bay.

Trav.-

 

[scrapdaddy]

Hey Travis,

Good to hear from you. Glad you got the 5.3, looks just like mine . You're not wrong about it all adding up. At least you will know what you have, when it's all done. Good job on the details.

 

[M1A1cruiser]

compiling swap parts

Said goodbye to the midlife crisis mobile

So have some funds to continue this (additional?) one.

So my question is WHICH corvette manifolds work? Any LS1 variant? Newer corvette - i.e. similar year to my 2003 engine - or the older rams horns from early years? I'll do some digging (kinda lazy just asking here, but I value the specific-to-L/Cs experience here) but if there's 'been there...' advice here I appreciate it.

Also here's a general question if anyone wants to opine:
Why is it necessary/preferred to weld scab plates to the frame and THEN weld motor mounts to that? I don't mind doing the extra work, but I've heard lots of comments about not welding motor mounts (and many other things for that matter) directly to the frame. Is it not the same 'weakening' of the frame by welding the plate to it? Is it just that the scab plate welds redirect the force over a larger area than the motor mounts? Just curious.

Big updates and pics coming again soon...hopefully...

T.-

 

[M1A1cruiser]

Learning about blow through welds!!

Or....when to leave well enough alone!

Setting the stage:

Here was all that was showing in terms of rust

Of course I kept finding and finding and finding rust in between the panels. i don't have a pic but suffice to say I ended up cutting the outer skin off all the way down to where the mud flap attaches.

Look at me I've got a new welder!!!

I'll tell ya' right now I don't know how to weld for SH*T!! All I've ever welded is some scrap (quite a bit of practice on it but it was thicker than 18g so a lot more forgiving) and a pull-up bar for the garage.

So, let it begin again:

I'm thinking throughout that if I really booger it up I can break down and buy those patch panels from SOR, and then get someone who KNOWS what they're doing to fix my screw up.

Lots of tacking, grinding, having the kid hold a spoon on the back, tack again, add metal, grind, blow through, add more wire, unf*#^k the spool, grind, tack, etc, etc 'til it's pretty well filled in and attached.

In fact this is two pieces attached to the truck and attached to each other and they're stuck on well enough to allow me to pound the tabs around the corner.

It was much easier sticking the tabs together 'cause the inner part of the fending acted as a good backing.

So I've learned to keep the weld area clean (wire brush a lot between tacks) and to not pull the gun away; keep a nice little pool (just for an instant) and release the trigger.

I'm happy to get it looking this good. Again, this isn't a museum piece. I will drive it and dent it, but I want to start out as clean as possible and besides, I like the "process". This area is getting 'monstalinered' anyway, but it's nice to beat the rust back at least for a bit!

I've still got about 2/3 of the fewer to go, and I have to pretty up the inside too - you can imagine how bad it looks with all my jack-assery learning how to weld! HA!

But it's coming along.
For now,
Travis.-

 

[dbleon]

Is it just that the scab plate welds redirect the force over a larger area than the motor mounts?
T.-

yup... I went with 1/4" with mine... to match the AA mount thickness. That way when your doing the critical welds you can turn the heat up and get good bite on both pieces. Others will tell you to go no more than 3/16" for scabs, or weld to the frame directly. I just used the very unscientific 'beef' methodology in my choice. Take all my advice for what its worth... Im no expert.

If used you 'should' make the scab plates round, diamond, fish-eye, etc (to minimize vertical welds..)

cheers, get movin' on it!!

 

[scrapdaddy]

Travis,

I used 1/4" plate on my frame, also. I was covering up three different sets of motor mounts, from PO's. With all the holes and grinding, I did, thought it was a good idea to reinforce it alittle.

On the welds, just keep doing it, it will improve. Mig doesn't like dirt, rust, paint or even wind, so keep it clean and out of the drafts.

 

[scrapdaddy]

Hey Travis,

Something I remembered, Brian says, he uses only water for coolant in our motors and mine isn't going to be running by Winter. My shop isn't heated around the clock, either. So I've got to put some antifreeze in there, somehow. What's your plan?

 

[M1A1cruiser]

Plan...hahaha...plan he says.

If I'm honest with myself I have to admit that I won't be running by winter either. The Mark's kit is in the mail, but beyond getting it all mated together is all the work you've already been working on - body and frame preservation - then fuel system, exhaust, electrical, etc, etc, etc right? I've been waiting on taking the body off and having the frame powder coated 'til I get the new motor mounts attached. I figure that'll be a good time to try to get the bottom some attention...

I'll keep an eye on the thermometer in the garage - it's not heated but it's insulated - and I suppose if it gets too cool, I'll have to run a space heater out there. I don't think it gets below freezing in the garage, and if so not much so the electricity wont kill me. There's one upside of not having a nice, huge dedicated shop .

I wonder if flushing with antifreeze would be good enough or if it'd have to be the full up closed system?

 

[scrapdaddy]

I'll call Brian and ask him, but maybe just pulling a freeze plug out and draining it, would be easier. There's alot to think about, isn't there.

 

[M1A1cruiser]

Stuff

Do you ever get a box of parts and think "oh sh*t, how do I do all this?!?

If only I hadn't taken the kids on that once-in-a-lifetime trip to Costa Rica to see the sea turtles, all sorts of poison frogs and do a little rafting I'd be further along.

here's me pulling the boy in making sure he doesn't hit the rocks on the way in!!!

He wanted to jump...really...

Pretty excited getting all the parts and pieces to start getting the engine into the truck. i know there's a long way to go (fuel, wiring, etc, etc, etc) but being able to at least see that the paperweight in the corner of my garage will be moving toward it's home.

Couple issues if anyone cares to offer some help.

Is it going to be a big problem to clearance the AA motor mounts by about 5mm?

Driver's

Passenger's

I'll be honest and say I'm probably pretty-well decided to go this direction - for a few reasons 1) I already have these parts and am at least starting from a known (used before) point in terms of motor mounts, 2) I can't imagine I'm gonna compromise the part completely - are they made THAT close to tolerance 3)if I 'F' it up I can then go to a clamshell style or a plate and some tubing...but I've got $$ in the manifolds and the Mark's kit so would like to see if it can work rather than just changing to some other trial and error.

Maybe I'm too married to this direction/decision but that's why I am asking. I've procured the Vette manifolds and would like to use 'em vice going headers (which seem to need to be modded also so....???)

'Nother question.
The 10mm dowel pins that align the bellhousing to the 2f...are they REALLY necessary? The Mark's adaptor calls for them but those f'ers were NOT coming out of the 2f. And you'd be surprised how difficult it is to gt 10mm dowels (Summit has a three week wait, Fastenal - at least here - doesn't carry metric, etc, etc. Believe me, I've looked) Would 10mm steel rod work if trimmed to fit? I can't imagine the dowels are NEEDED, just make it easier to get stuff aligned if it's being put in while underneath???

Thanks in advance for any insight that the pros might offer.

More as I do it. Regards, TDC.-

 

[MANUCHAO]

I used the same mounts and had the same issue.. I just trimmed the one engine mount to clear the manifold...
If I were yah.. I would not use those frame mounts.. the engine mounts you could modify and get away with it... those donut style rubber isolators mounts will last you a year at best, before they start falling apart.
Once they fall apart you will have the engine moving around the bay and your exhaust pipes might end up touching your frame or anything close to them...
My solution, laugh if you want, but I ended up putting hockey pucks as motor mounts and they are holding up great after 1.5 years and countless miles....

Its easy to say "screw it" im going with what I have... later on, once everything is on and running making changes is a lot harder....

BTW awesome jumping shot !!!