Let it Begin! 87 frame off, vortec, H55...

[dbleon]

No issue at all by snipping a little off the AA mount. They are very beefy, Others have done this, and have no issues. You will also likely have to widen one or two of the holes for your side to side placement of the motor.

All that being said.... If I could do it again, I would try to use the clamshell (old sbc) mounts with a 4 bolt adapter plate. Most adapter plates allow fore/aft movement which is awesome for clearance on the manifolds. My buddy Matt (clonestocker on here) did this on the cheap and It came out way better than anything else I've seen anyone do on here.

The corvette manifolds are trick huh? Get the aluminum heat sheild though... oh an I would coat them in high temp paint if I could do it again.

You are on track. Take your time and think everything through... do everything as best you can, and buy only quality parts.... in the end you will thank yourself. The cut corners is where problems show up (mine: transfer case - should have rebuilt it - bang head).

Have you decided on fuel delivery?

 

[scrapdaddy]

Hey Travis,

Call Georg, at Valley Hybrids, he got me the dowel pins, you need.

I like the manifolds, if you would, tell me where you got them. I'm going to need some for the 55.

You're doing good!

Thanks, Ron

 

[djawahir]

Looks like you're doing DBW? If so, I've got a gas pedal setup and TAC module that could work for your 5.3L. I did a DBW 5.3L L59 engine swap and I have a spare set left over. (I bought two sets in case I f*#@ed one set up.) Just let me know if you want it and we can work out a deal.

Looking good so far! Brings back memories!

 

[M1A1cruiser]

THanks VERY much for the replies, all.

Manu,
I'll go back and check your threads, but are you saying that you fabbed up different frame-side mounts or you just substituted hockey pucks between the motor side and the frame side instead of the AA kit donuts? I've heard of people using pucks for body too, something to think about...THANK YOU.

-I'm gonna investigate the clam shells from the old SBC. I've looked at 'clonestockers' thread and he's got some good looking stuff on there - maybe more fab skills than I have tho. I've seen some others with an adaptor plate, DOM tube and an isolator.

DBLEON,
The heat shields came with, just didn't have them on...I will paint, I hadn't thought of it but might as well right? No reason in them going orange right?
I think fuel will be via a long range (or custom...depends on how much $$$ Christmas is...) tank using the in-tank pump and corvette filter and regulator. I'll probably use braided for delivery (again, depends on $$) and reuse the hard lines for return (most of it...) - my engine has the return all the way from the fuel rail.

Ron,
manifolds were an eBay find; 'bout $200 - vice $360 EACH that the dealership wants - brand new.

djawahir,
The pedal and TAC mod came with the engine so I'm good but I appreciate the offer - that kind of thing is what makes this board great; guys who will just offer, out of the blue, to help another out. If I end up F-ing mine up (seems pretty clear I'll have to shorten the pedal...) I'll ring ya'.

I'll see how notching these goes. I truly appreciate the input but I've gotta follow this path for a bit before I jump to another.

THANKS AGAIN TO ALL WHO HAVE AND ARE HELPING. I couldn't tackle something like this without this board and all your expertise and experience.

TDC.-

 

[orangefj45]

just wait till you get to drive the 60 for the first time with the new powertrain.....


love the costa rica pics! i was down there ten years ago. beautiful place!


georg

 

[MANUCHAO]

you just substituted hockey pucks between the motor side and the frame side instead of the AA kit donuts? I

^^^^^ this.
If I could do it all over again I would go with a DOM Tube and Isolators..

 

[phishincruisin]

In my research I was turned off of braided lines. The braids slowly get dirt in them and the dirt works its way to the inner lining and they will wear out. If you're just building a mall crawler you'll be fine though.

I recommend the blue or black -6AN Aeroquip hose with the socketless fittings. Easy to run, fittings aren't too bad to shove in the hose if you use lube, and you can find it for $3-4/ft. http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/product/48/Aeroquip_Socketless_Hose

 

[M1A1cruiser]

I KNEW I had read that about the dirt somewhere ( I think I've read and reread every swap thread on here)!!!! Thanks phishin. I should've been more specific anyway as I guess I meant some sort of AN line - not necessarily braided - that will stand the psi needed.

Thanks again all. T.-

 

[dbleon]

Stay away from rubber anything in the fuel system. The ethanol additive in todays fuel is known to cause rubber to "weep" fuel/alcohol vapors. It can also degrade over time. Do a google search... this info is from an industry expert and hot rodder 50+ years experience.

Use steel hard lines if you can.... and teflon is really good too.

I tell you strictly for your own good.. using rubber fuel hose in a street legal highway bound vehicle is cutting corners IMHO.

 

[phishincruisin]

The Aeroquip hose I mention has been tested and is rated as excellent in ethanol applications. Check out this chart http://www.advancedfluidconnectors.com/files/aeroquip_fluid_compatibility_info.pdf

 

[MANUCHAO]

Hijack... this is great point you guys bring up.. what about for those hoses that run from the tank to the fill neck and the evap canister/fuel pump housing including the stock set up or any other gas set up (chevy).

You guys think that those need to be address too or just the ones on the pressurized side of the equation?

[end hijack]

 

[M1A1cruiser]

Please, feel free to keep up the hijacks...it will all come in handy, to someone, sometime!

But I've gotta toss out another random - and this sounds dumb - but the instructions on the Mark's kit are not exactly clear (as a guy who worked with the Aussies for a year in Afghanistan I can testify that it IS a different language!).

What bell housing do I have????

The Mark's instructions refer to a "one piece cast iron bell housing" AND a "two piece aluminum bell housing and cast iron sandwich plate".

I thought/still think, that I have the "one piece..." but as I look at it maybe they're considering the inspection panel (pictured beside) as the "two piece..."

The only real difference in installation is 2mm difference in adjustment of the throwout bearing, but...I tend to over think things and end up screwing stuff up.

Thanks, as always, Trav.-

 

[OGBeno]

Build is looking great Travis! It always takes longer than you initially plan for.



Awesome work.

regards.
onur

 

[scrapdaddy]

Travis,

I'd say, you have the one piece Bellhousing.

 

[Joe_E]

Lookin good man.

 

[M1A1cruiser]

Halfway to halfway?

Somebody check my logic and tell me if I'm wrong - it happened once...

Since I am using a Toyota transmission and the whole purpose of the Mark's adaptor is to avoid drive line mods, I should be able to mount the trans and T/C (with the kit attached) and that'll give me a pretty good idea where the engine should go.

A little fudge 'cause I've got options where to put the new mounts and theres some give in the stock (current) trans support.

But this looks way too crooked (I don't have drive lines in yet but I can't imagine that the V8 won't be sitting damn near ON the DS fender). Photo's don't show too well, but the centerline of the trans input shaft is pointing driver's side pretty definitely.

I grasp that I want to mount with driveline considerations first - and from eyballing it, it seems like they'll line up; I obviously haven't measured angles...). I figure I can massage exhaust around (to a point, I know the steering can get close) and I'm aware of the oil pan issues and all that, but my point is, if the T/C, trans, bell housing and drive lines are in I should be able to mate the engine to the Mark's adaptor and be pretty damn close for the motor mounts....then I get to take it all back out again to have the frame dipped and coated (I can't quite decsribe how close I was (am?) to saying 'F' all that restoration, I'm just gonna get this powertrain in and call it good.)

My OCD will get the better of me and I'll want to protect a nice frame and underbody but damn, getting the gears and adaptors bolted up by one's self it a PITA!!

That said, I think I learned a few things about where to lift, where to brace, when to attach the crossmember, etc so perhaps I can contribute a little to the board.

Best,
Travis.-

 

[orangefj45]

When we install any "non-stock" running gear in a cruiser, we make very sure that the entire assembly sits at about 4 degs, high in the front. And it should sit perfectly parallel with the frame centerline. So if the center of the crank pulley is 1" off center to the driver's side ( just for example ) then the center of the t-case rear cover ( where the transmission main shaft "would" exit ) should be offset the same amount.
Hope that makes sense .......

Georg

 

[scrapdaddy]

Georg,

I've read different spots to check this, where do you recommend, say with a 5.3 chevy.

Thanks, Ron

 

[orangefj45]

Try along the valve covers or where the heads bolt to the block.

Hth

Georg

 

[M1A1cruiser]

Makes sense....and I appreciate the input from someone with many swaps under his belt!

Maybe the bad left-to-right angle is more perception. Or maybe it'll straighten out a bit once all the pieces are in - it's pretty intuitive that the weight of the engine will alter the setting of the Trans/TC; right now it's really just kind of balanced on the trans crossmember (bolted in but...).

I just didn't expect the yaw given that it's essentially the same transmission that came out (H42 for H55 so no real geometry change there...) and the bell housing adaptor is just a big tube really!

More to follow once I mock the engine in there. Certainly nice to get the advice BEFORE welding anything in!!

Ron,
There's a nice plate that holds the wiring harness on top of the intake. I think it'd be kind of tight to get a level in on top of the valve covers...but that'd probably be optimal.

We'll see what the pro's say...

Thanks again,
TDC.-