Let it Begin! 87 frame off, vortec, H55... (1 Viewer)

[orangefj45]

the idler slinger should be fine, try to straighten it. but don't go overboard or it'll crack. you don't want that puppy to come apart ........

sometimes the idler shaft wants to get gauled into the rear case half. it's because the bare end sticking thru the rear half is steel and will rust slightly. so most of the time i take a wire brush and clean up the end of the old idler really well so it dones'nt wedgy itself into the case half. i also slightly tap on the idler shaft while pulling on the rear half to prevent the idler from having any issues.

i say get some fine grit sand paper, clean up the orfice, run the idler shaft o-ring with a little silicone to help it slip in place and prevent any leaks and you should not have any issues with it. i put a small amount of silicone on all my idler shaft o-rings, be it an early case, an orion or a split case. prevents the o-ring from being cut during install and it definetly helps to prevent idler shaft leaks.

hth

georg @ valley hybrids

 

[alaska60]

I sure could use a 4 speed and splitcase for my 40....still have them. if so Im in Utah and can make the drive up. currently doing the same swap with an auto for max. powerzz. PM me if you still have it.

 

[Joe_E]

Looks great man.
And yes, Beno is definately the 60's best friend.

 

[scrapdaddy]

Travis,

Looks like you're moving right along, same pace as me. Glad you got your transmission, mine is sitting at CDan's place until I pick it up. Check out my thread on the 55 page, SLOW 71 and you'll see my 5.3, I just got from BD Turnkey, you will like it. Have fun and keep me updated.

Ron

 

[M1A1cruiser]

A little more T-Case-ing

So, another week goes by a little more work!

Got the T/C completely torn down - well I haven't taken the gears off the main (rear output) shaft yet. Maybe I will, maybe I won't.

I am going through cleaning everything up and making sure I've got all the bearings/seals/gaskets etc - and in the right place before I put stuff onto the new 5-speed - insert gratuitous pic here...

Clean rear case - yes I love having all the tools of my government at my disposal!

Couple questions:

1. Step 9 (TF-22) of 'Inspection of Transfer Components' says ...transmission rear oil seal...I swear I don't have one of these! Not still in the 'front case', not on the shaft, I suppose it could be on the floor somewhere...but...I was pretty darn careful to keep everything, and in order. Is my FSM wrong? I know some steps only apply to the Automatic Trans (ATM) but there's not ATM listed in this step. Did I just lose the seal?

2. The thrust clearance on the high gear is out of tolerance (MAX 0.25mm, mine 0.330 goes in snugly, .356 no-go). Step 26(a). And there's a little bit of fore and aft movement of the gear. Will this be corrected naturally when/if I rebuild the shaft? is there something I should be specific about pressing more/less?

3. When I am pressing in new outer races (F and R) is the SST really just anything that will press the race in uniformly all around or should I really try to get this tool?

4. Lastly, again on pressing (and maybe this'll be self evident once I get the shaft torn down) how do I know how far down the shaft to press the various bearings and gears on? Will the respective stacks (i.e. clutch sleeve, low gear, output shaft rear bearing) go to a lip on the shaft? Or is there an index mark?

Thanks for any help willing to be offered.

Best,
Travis.-

 

[M1A1cruiser]

Rear output shaft

In the continuing saga of "do what the FSM says not what I do", please consider the following:

When you're taking apart the rear (main) output shaft make sure you put the HIGH gear against the pressing plates when the FSM says to! to press the clutch hub, bearing and high gear off (after taking off the snap-ring).

Just 'cause the low gear sits there easier doesn't mean that's the way it should go in your press. Look closely at the FSM and make sure you get this guy (circled in photo) on the pressing surface - which should sit where the arrows go if you can visualize this up-down ways.

I pressed the s*** out of this shaft with the low (larger) gear sitting on the press surface and nothing happened - except this:

:whoops:

No harm - I assume/hope (always a good course of action!!!) F*%#

Put a couple little 2x4s in between the hi and lo gears and press slowly? came right apart! with only the 2x4s to press against. so you can see it doesn't take THAT much pressure.

Again, none of this is a surprise if you pay close attention to the manual. But if your 9-year old can't sleep and you're trying to get just a little wrenching done late at night 'cause you really like the work and don't get enough time, I think this is an easy mistake to make so maybe by pointing it out somewhat concisely here others will have an easier time of it.

Best,
Travis.-

 

[orangefj45]

according to trail gear chinese metalurgy is as good as japanese or domestic. i believe that pic proves them wrong!

 

[scrapdaddy]

Travis,

Makes me want, to run out to the shop and start taking apart my transfer. Thanks for all the pictures, I will reread everthing, before I get into it. Are you replacing anything, other than seals.

Ron

 

[Finnyfam60]

I just picked up my full seal kit from Georg and this makes me want to get started!!!

 

[M1A1cruiser]

Transfer Case Seals

OK, so I'm moving along a bit, cleaning up parts, setting out for rebuild.

I've read through a bunch of threads trying to answer my question (this -split case rebuild by Hugh Heifer - is one of the best), but I'd appreciate confirmation...I'm

This seal pretty straight forward I think

Seal marking: BH5371E
Toyota Part #: 90311-48010
Rear output shaft oil seal

Next one, I'm OK on (although it looks a little different than the old one -measurements below)
Seal marking: BE1192G
Toyota Part #: 90311-48022
Front output shaft oil seal

ID - old 48, new 46
OD - old 74, new 74
Height - old 14, new 17

Transmission rear oil seal (that goes between transfer and transmission)

Seal marking: BE3383E
Toyota part: 90311-48012

I've seen part number BE3386E, 90316-48003 for the transmission rear oil seal but I'm not sure.

Thanks for any help.
Best, Travis.-

 

[orangefj45]

Iirc the input seal should be a 48022 not 48012. It should have a spring on both sides.

Georg

 

[M1A1cruiser]

I HAVE a 40822 but it looks a lot like the rear output - with the lip on it and all, and I don't see any that have springs on both sides...I'll go look closer.

Is there a seal that rides the front output at all (as pictured with number 40812) or just the ONE that sits in the front output toward the flange outside the bearing?

I should have another box showing up here later to compare and contrast seals.

I guess a question that would help me: are there three seals (trans/transfer, front output, rear output) or four - i.e one that I didn't order...

Thanks.

 

[dbleon]

I had alot of confusion with seals too. I got mine from cruiser outfitters. The old front output seal did not look anything like the new one, in fact the new front output and main input seals looked identical IIRC. I was told they were right....

 

[dbleon]

I HAVE a 40822 but it looks a lot like the rear output - with the lip on it and all, and I don't see any that have springs on both sides...I'll go look closer.

Is there a seal that rides the front output at all (as pictured with number 40812) or just the ONE that sits in the front output toward the flange outside the bearing?

I should have another box showing up here later to compare and contrast seals.

I guess a question that would help me: are there three seals (trans/transfer, front output, rear output) or four - i.e one that I didn't order...

Thanks.

To answer your question.. to my knowledge there are only 3 big rubber seals (main input, front output, rear output.

 

[M1A1cruiser]

OK. If there are only three I am probably OK. It just comes down to "newer" model vs. old, two springs vs. one, etc.

If I give it a little thought it doesn't make sense that there'd be an oil seal INSIDE the case - where I have one pictured along the front o/put shaft. That one MUST have fallen out when I pressed out the front shaft and I thought it came from there...so it is probably the transmission/transfer seal, but I got the "older" version with only one spring (?)

More to follow. I'd like to, at some point, be able to post up the correct numbers (or some of the correct as it seems like there are multiple Toyota part numbers that COULD fit in some of these applications: FJ60 vs 62, etc).

Thanks again. T.-

 

[OGBeno]

There are only 3 oil seals for the late split case:

90311-48010: rear output seal
90311-48012: input seal from tranny to xfer
90311-48022: front output seal (this one is shared with the earlier split case from the early 80's)

The rest are gaskets or FIPG.

And most of the changes occurred when they went from the earlier H41 to the H42 and discarded the front DC driveshaft and added the spacer between the tranny and the xfer (4/1985)

 

[M1A1cruiser]

Beno continues to come through for me - even though when I call him up I'm full of "yeah, not that thing...the other thing" or "oh yeah, I think I DO need one of those widgets.

I wouldn't blame you for tossing me to the wolves, but I appreciate the help - it's a pain that the part numbers can't be listed in the FSM or that the name can't be listed on the part; 'thanks Toyota, I KNOW it's a seal, T'.

But thanks Onur!!!

Now which way does the 48012 go? flat toward tranny or transfer?

Best regards,
TDC.-

 

[M1A1cruiser]

INSPECTION OF TRANSFER COMPONENTS – TF-21 from FSM

I don’t have photos of steps 1-4. I checked all the tolerances and didn’t replace the needle bearings – I don’t know why, I replaced all the others but…anyway.

The numbers are the step in the manual...

5. Replace rear output shaft front bearing outer race.
Race has 354A on it
Toyota P/N: 90366-35011

6. Replace rear output shaft rear bearing outer race

I put the shim that was in there back in (‘cause it’s the only one I have); .018”
Race has 30307J on it
Toyota P/N:

7. Front output shaft oil seal

DO NOT PUT THE NEW SEAL IN AT THIS STEP – SEE STEP 13 WHEN THE FSM TELLS YOU TO RE-REMOVE THE SEAL TO PUT THE BEARING IN.

So I’ll cover this in a minute

8. Front drive shaft fork shaft oil seal
Toyota P/N: 90311-22005
Note; This doesn’t seem to seat all the way, but that’s the lip for the dust boot

9. Transmission rear oil seal
note: I think there are different versions of this seal out there (single lip and double…) but I don’t know and I struggled and asked a lot which side went toward TRANS. I came up with the “flat” side goes toward the TRANS. If I’m wrong, it’ll leak from one to the other and I’ll have to tear this apart again – oh well)
Toyota P/N: 90311-48012

Those other H55F’ers out there will note the tap/plug of the no-longer-needed bolt. You can't see it but I have forgotten to snap in the oiler cup. I’ll tell you later when I realized the oiler cup isn’t in there!!! MOTHER FxxxER. I was holding tried and true to the FSM ‘cause I didn’t want to miss anything. Well, when the step you’re doing isn’t in the manual you’re likely to miss it. Sometimes it pays to do what you know is right (or what others from this forum have done/taught before!)!



10 Rear output shaft oil seal
Toytoa P/N: 90311-48010

11. Hi/Lo selector lever oil seal
Toyota P/N: 90313-13001

12.
I didn’t do the speedo driven gear oil seal. I don’t know why…just didn’t order it.

13.
Front output shaft bearing.
See, right here is where you’ll be cursing if you’ve put in the oil seal (i.e. if you didn’t read hugh heifer’s thread on this same topic…)
Bearing, Oil slinger, snap ring, oil seal.
Bearing: 6207A4
Toyota P/N: 90363-35013

More to follow, but I guess I'll break up the posts a little.

 

[M1A1cruiser]

Assembly of transfer.

1. Install high gear to rear output shaft
This pressed together pretty easily.
Bearing: Toyota P/N: 90366-35011

2. Install low gear to rear output shaft
Bearing Toyota P/N: 90366-35053

3. Install snap ring

4. Install transfer high and low shift outer and inner lever.
This really only goes together one way – although I was confused when it came time to put the rear case on and I had a tough time lining this up with the square notch on the underside of the shift fork shaft. It all went, just pay attention to where stuff has to go BEFORE you apply the FIPG.

5. Install front output shaft.
It was a little tough getting this in the press properly – space, balance, not resting the piece on another seal. I wish I would have taken a picture of the rig I finally got all set up – a two by four on one side with a couple of small open end wrenches to keep the 2/4 shift fork shaft seal off the deck, a 4x4 and 2x4 stacked against the other side to make it all level…but it all worked. Pressed slowly and everything seated. I pressed against the snap ring on the bottom (out) side of the bearing. I figured worst thing the snap ring would let go, but I had an extra.

I think you can see here that the shaft is seated all the way against the bearing.

6. ATM only

7. Transfer front case
FIPG, gasket, FIPG.
Thread lock to the three bolts inside the case (I did the other bolt too, why not?)
Torque to 47

Note I cut the middle section out of a four speed gasket. I don’t know if this is the only gasket Toyota makes, but it’s the one I have – and there’s no cross member in the 5-speed.
Note2: Also notice I haven’t mentioned putting in the oiler cup yet! MF’er!!!

8. I didn’t break down the shift for shafts so didn’t do this step

 

[dbleon]

NICE!!!! Keep it up.