Let it Begin! 87 frame off, vortec, H55...

[scrapdaddy]

Travis,

I put ARB air lockers in both front and rear, mine are 60 axles also. As Nolan said, you can turn them off when on the road and totally lock them, when you need it. Not to mention, get a nice air compressor to run them ( Puma ) and have on board air also.

It does add quite abit of expence to the project, but money well spent, at the least a rear locker.

 

[M1A1cruiser]

Getting somewhere

This is a meaningless post, but I've gotta share.

Got a box from Kurt today (yep, he's as great to work with as everyone else has said)

Sorta bummed that I've gotta work this weekend but it'll get there.

Frame is loaded up to take in for blasting and powder coating. So get the axles done and let's start rebuilding instead of take apart, fix a little, take apart, do what I can, take apart, wait....

I'm damn ready to start building this thing back.

Now the question is how far to go with the body? I really want to take all the factory stuff off the bottom and seal (sound, heat and elements) ala scrap daddy (https://forum.ih8mud.com/fj55-iron-pig-preservation-society/569815-slow-71-a-3.html)

but I don't have a rotisserie and I don't know where to begin/how to get the factory "stuff" off. Advice?

More soon (hopefully). TDC.-

 

[scrapdaddy]

Hey Travis,

If you have a few weight lifting buddies, you could try this. https://forum.ih8mud.com/fj55-iron-pig-preservation-society/522048-my-new-project-5.html. Any way you go, it's a whole lot of scrapping and wire wheeling.

Ron

 

[scrapdaddy]

Travis,

Just remembered this post. https://forum.ih8mud.com/fj55-iron-pig-preservation-society/640514-71-gutless-pig.html I would think you could do this type of thing, easy enough. This might work pretty good.

 

[M1A1cruiser]

Thanks Ron! That's good!
Necessity is the mother of invention - or in the case of the plywood rotisserie maybe it's the mother-f'er of invention...

Maybe, just maybe I'll break down and build one. I'll see how tired I get of laying on my back with a wire wheel, and how quickly it goes. I might end up being not that critical (but I hate to half ass a job).

Question: Does everyone replace the ring gear bolts and nuts when installing a locker? Just bolts? Just nuts? The only "research" I have is the FSM and the ARB instructions and both refer to new. I ordered bolts in advance, but not the nuts - so perhaps it's a swing by the dealership today...(yeah, I am that impatient).

Also, the FSM says 'locking plates' with the nuts. Is that only on the rear diff? This is a picture of my front and there's clearly no locking plates anywhere around the circumference.

On the plus side, everything looked really good inside the axles (no oil in the grease or vice versa. So good that I almost with I hadn't broken it all the way down . But again, I am enjoying the project, it's not a DD and I want to do all the work once - it won't be every day that I have the opportunity to put the axle on the bench.

Thanks for any advice,
Travis.-

 

[scrapdaddy]

Travis,

We reused the bolts and nuts, I didn't think it was a big deal. Hope someone with more knowledge, on this, speaks up.

 

[bushpig68]

Please help, how do I post a question? Trouble with my 80 series auto transmission.

 

[bushpig68]

Hard gear changes 80 series auto

My 80 series 1996 petrol automatic landcruiser changes up harshly when accelerating slowly. If I accelerate hard it's all smooth. What can I check? I am new to this forum so apologies if I have posted at the wrong place.

 

[Trapper50cal]

My 80 series 1996 petrol automatic landcruiser changes up harshly when accelerating slowly. If I accelerate hard it's all smooth. What can I check? I am new to this forum so apologies if I have posted at the wrong place.

Go Here:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/

Select/Click Gray Button - "New Thread"

tech sections are organized by vehicle model/series

When you get a second, delete your posts in this thread as it is M1A1's build thread.

 

[M1A1cruiser]

ARB carrier bearings

BLUF: Is it OK to press a tapered roller bearing on a shaft by pressing against the cage?

CAN I PRESS HERE??

OR DO I NEED AN SST (aka a just right sized pipe) THAT WILL PRESS HERE and not hit the rollers, the cage or the yoke on the diff??

The rest of the story.

I am putting the carrier bearings on an ARB air locker and I can't find a race/bearing press that will exactly fit to the ~50mm inner race of the new (larger) bearings. The cage to the rollers is slightly taller than the inner race, and the bearing has to go down a shaft a couple of inches - to where the red grease ends...

I've looked and looked for guidance on pressing (12-ton shop press style) against different surfaces of a bearing (inner race, outer race, roller vs. ball) and can't find a definitive answer. Zuk's is a great resource (http://www.gearinstalls.com/jayallen.htm) but I can't tell if the "dies" he's using here will allow the bearing to get all the way down the shaft or if he's just using the normal aluminum race-seating tools to get the bearing started:

I have a tool that will span the bearing AND allow for pressing all the way onto the locker:

But it applies the pressure to the cage.

Or I could use the old race - and that would apply the pressure to the rollers - and indirectly to the inner race (which is where it seems to me it should be)

Or do I just need to keep looking and find the right tool that will put the pressure ONLY on that inner race, where the bearing will be seated against the yoke of the locker?

Experiences?

Thanks, Trav.-

 

[M1A1cruiser]

sort of an answer

Sometimes it pays to sleep on it.

I dug a little more through the garage and probably have found an answer - or at least one solution to my own question.

I'll throw it up here for observation and input; I want this thread to be as much documentation and me asking questions as a resource for others to 'not do' what I have done, or not have to learn the hardest way.

The locker install is part of the axle rebuild, and I got the rebuild kit from Kurt as mentioned above, so fortunately I do have a FEW old bearings and races laying around. I don't have anything approaching a "shop" with races galore, or tons of shims, SSTs, etc, etc laying around. I like to buy s*** and built it but...when it comes to something just barely outside of one or two bananas I am learning.

So, it turns out the wheel bearing has the same ID as the ARB (50mm) so it will press over the journal where the air-ring-collar goes, and the race is about the same width as the new carrier bearings so the pressure will be applied to the strongest part of the new bearing and not transfered through the cage or the rollers.

So, I guess this will work. I'll cut the cage off the long-side of the old wheel bearing too if I need more depth.

For now,
TDC.-

 

[M1A1cruiser]

ARB install

I don't know how much of the locker install I'll document; ARB's instructions are pretty thorough, there are many better diff guys than me, and I've only run across a couple of things that are worth mentioning - so others can learn or I can get answers.

Here's a new thing though:

Preload is weird to me. I was gonna leave the pinion end of the diff alone - figuring it was going OK 'til now, why mess with it. But then, there was no pinion preload applied, which got me thinking 1) just tighten the locking nut and call it good or 2) tear into it and make sure it's OK. So I chose 2. Got new bearings and a bunch of shims from Kurt and so will do it all up right.

Pressed the new races in and bearings onto the pinion shaft and adjusted for PPL without the crush sleeve and oil seal (as per FSM)

Set the PPL (like I said, this was odd); it was almost difficult to turn the pinion flange by hand, but the (continuous - not starting) measurement was right within spec for new bearings (16-22.5 in/lb)

I went to set the diff carrier in and noticed these odd paint(?) drips. I'd seen them on dissassembly but didn't think about it 'til I went to put the new carrier bearing race down.

Can anyone tell me what this is? I assume even this little bit of "junk" should NOT be between the race and the bearing cap/housing?

I'd appreciate any thoughts before I go to set the carrier in and start working on contact patterns and backlash.

Thanks, Travis.-

If there's some part of the ARB process I can comment on please dont hesitate to ask. I'm no expert but it's fresh in my brain.

 

[M1A1cruiser]

Starting diff patterns

Just for the record, here's the beginning patterns:

Drive:

Coast:

Not bad. We'll see how many times I have to remove the pinion bearings and stuff to shim this out with the ARB and new bearings all around...

 

[norcal505]

Lucky guy! Dream rig right here...I remember when it came up on CL last year.

 

[scrapdaddy]

Travis,

Good Job, I've had my head up my build, lately and haven't looked around much. I'm not sure why the paint is there or even if it is paint. No need for it there.

Keep it going! Ron

 

[M1A1cruiser]

Front axle done

Getting there:

Got the ARB in there - routing that little copper tube was harder than I thought it would be. I was going for nice round curves and elegance and ended up being afraid of bending the thing so many times so stopped at functional solution.

Final, final drive tooth pattern:

Final, final coast:

FWIW: somewhere in FJ60 production runs there were two different pinions used; one required ~18mm (ID) pinion nut and the other 20mm (ID). I guess there's no way to know which one you have 'til you get to that part of the truck! Cruiseroutfitters had both and Kurt quickly hooked me up to keep forward progress (of course the wrong one was in the kit the first try - again, no way to know).

I rigged up an imperfect system to check the integrity of the ARB o-rings (yeah that's electrical tape attaching ARB's plastic tubing to my little valve and gauge! ).

It held pressure - lost about 2psi over half an hour - not perfect but I am hoping that little tiny leak is just in the many joints and BS I have in my valve. I think if it were the locker I'd have smelled the oil and been able to see the soap bubbles:



Before:

After:

New bearings and seals all the way from the pinion and differential out to the hub selector. I guess I better put the gear oil in now so I don't forget it between now and when it's all back together!!!

I'm gonna be really pissed when, presumably about six months from completion, I decide to go SOA and get to take all this back down again.

I'm gaining a tad bit of knowledge (but unfortunately not the experience to make that 'wisdom') and trying to help others, so that's good.

Next up, front end (steering, brakes, re-use springs - with new u-bolts, bushings pins and shackles) rear axle locker, strip and lizard skin the underside, and start putting it back together. Oh yeah, then plumbing, wiring, don't even mention interior, dash, de-chrome!

I've got a bunch more pics of the knuckle and hub assembly if there's a need.

Best regards,
TDC.-

 

[dbleon]

NIce work!! Keep up the pictures.

 

[scrapdaddy]

Travis,

doing a real good job! I know it takes alot of effort to clean everything, but so nice when it goes back together.

Keep it going, Ron

 

[M1A1cruiser]

I H8 MUD (?) in my axle housing?!?

So I am guessing that this doesn't belong in there:

But isn't that half the fun of a build? tearing into something (knowing that I want to replace the bearings anyway, and am adding a locker in the "middle" of the axle) and finding some PO 'F' up, or something just weird, and being able to fix it and hopefully make it better.

I have no idea how this (presumably, based on previous owner) South Dakota red clay got into the axle housing. There is a slime of the same sediment all the way down the axle housing - on both sides of where the third was. The bearing still rolls pretty freely and the seal didn't seem compromised I didn't find any of this in the diff carrier. In through the breather tube? just a bad seal?

Just funny. Punch the bore and put it back together!

I'm taking a week off work so hope to get the rear axle on par with the front, get the steering back in, maybe drop the engine on the frame and...well that's probably ambitious as it is.

TDC.-

 

[scrapdaddy]

Hey Travis,

Is it just on my side, no pictures, all gone? Would like to see what you're talking about.

Thanks, Ron