Let it Begin! 87 frame off, vortec, H55...
- Thread starter M1A1cruiser
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Thanks Guys,
I just ordered a set from a LS2 C5, 3 bolt flange with 02 senser ports.
Travis, I'm putting my transfer case back together now and printed out your build pages. Man, what a help it's been!
Thank You, Ron
I just ordered a set from a LS2 C5, 3 bolt flange with 02 senser ports.
Travis, I'm putting my transfer case back together now and printed out your build pages. Man, what a help it's been!
Thank You, Ron
Hey travis,Miracle of modern science
That and my hurried work.
I didn't put it on the brackets (they're off for painting), I just placed it to make sure I had room to the front of the fan clutch.
Now that it is on the supports I can see that the bottom hose will be interfered with by the fan. I'll have to see if I can get a sharp turn out of the rad and then snake back around to the water inlet.
Thanks for the question as it caught something I'd missed sooner rather than later.
TDC.-
If you are having a hard time with that fan clutch fan, Maybe consider an electric fan? A Volvo 240 at the junk yard is pretty cheap and works really well. If you want more info on this, check out the fj62 vortec in my sig line. hope this helps you solve the hose to fan issue.
Looking good so far brother!
orangefj45
Supporting Vendor
I would highly recommend running the mechanical fan. And there are multiple reasons why:
1) they move more air than any electric fan
2) more reliable
3) no current draw
4) fewer part = less chance of failure
5) replacement part availability
Hth
Georg
1) they move more air than any electric fan
2) more reliable
3) no current draw
4) fewer part = less chance of failure
5) replacement part availability
Hth
Georg
rover67
SILVER Star
x1000 for all the same reasons. I used an electric for a while and finally switched to mechanical and life has been better ever since. The electrics pull a lot of power and restrict airflow at speed so they even cycle on the hwy.
M1A1cruiser
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #126
Uh, let me try to catch up a little.
Manifolds: from a 2008 corvette (that was C6 I guess...). The ones I happened to get are the two bolt. Be warned; at least on the 2-bolt there isn't a 'downpipe' you can buy - the corvette cats were incorporated immediately downstream of the manifolds. That makes getting flanges kinda hard; at least if you want a chevy flange. Easy enough to go with a generic 2.5 ID / 4.5" between the studs from local exhaust shop, but the gaskets are odd too so the generic might need to be machined to accept the metal corvette gasket. Just one more ankle biter. Also it looks like the outboard stud will interfere with the frame a bit (at least in my placement). I'll shorten it but...again, just so's you know.
I'll stick with the mechanical fan and build a shroud (this seems pretty do-able: http://www.cadvision.com/blanchas/54pontiac/FanShroud.html). I'm not as savvy with welding sheet metal as some ----^. My pic above is deceptive; there's enough room to run a hose before the fan. I just note the challenge as an FYI.
I'm building the new trans crossmember now (pretty simple; tube, plate to stock mounts, bushings in-between). Like I said, I just couldn't get the stock to angle everything just right (probably those with more experience and expertise can do it but I'm not that guy) so I'd rather have a different x-member that lines it all up right. Trying to do it right the first time - even if it means there might be a second time down the road, I'll do what I can now.
Pics to follow - there's still a fair amount (week or so) worth of grinding, tacking, bending, etc, etc before it's in.
Once the drivetrain all lines up and is welded in, it'll all come back out so the frame can go to the galvanizer (yeah, I just opened that debate again).
Best,
Trav.-
Manifolds: from a 2008 corvette (that was C6 I guess...). The ones I happened to get are the two bolt. Be warned; at least on the 2-bolt there isn't a 'downpipe' you can buy - the corvette cats were incorporated immediately downstream of the manifolds. That makes getting flanges kinda hard; at least if you want a chevy flange. Easy enough to go with a generic 2.5 ID / 4.5" between the studs from local exhaust shop, but the gaskets are odd too so the generic might need to be machined to accept the metal corvette gasket. Just one more ankle biter. Also it looks like the outboard stud will interfere with the frame a bit (at least in my placement). I'll shorten it but...again, just so's you know.
I'll stick with the mechanical fan and build a shroud (this seems pretty do-able: http://www.cadvision.com/blanchas/54pontiac/FanShroud.html). I'm not as savvy with welding sheet metal as some ----^. My pic above is deceptive; there's enough room to run a hose before the fan. I just note the challenge as an FYI.
I'm building the new trans crossmember now (pretty simple; tube, plate to stock mounts, bushings in-between). Like I said, I just couldn't get the stock to angle everything just right (probably those with more experience and expertise can do it but I'm not that guy) so I'd rather have a different x-member that lines it all up right. Trying to do it right the first time - even if it means there might be a second time down the road, I'll do what I can now.
Pics to follow - there's still a fair amount (week or so) worth of grinding, tacking, bending, etc, etc before it's in.
Once the drivetrain all lines up and is welded in, it'll all come back out so the frame can go to the galvanizer (yeah, I just opened that debate again).
Best,
Trav.-
PASS
I too got those screwy engine mount brackets when I originally put in a 350. They were the same in that the seemed to be built for the engine mounts to be at either the top or bottom of the frame rail, but not the center where they seem to want to be for a level engine mount (This with a level, custom fabricated crossmember (The FJ60 crossmember wants to angle the tranny to the pass side)). When I re-did the frame, i made my own and they seemed to work much nicer with the 350 SBC block.
I find leveling the engine a little madening as you usually do it after having taken the weight off the springs and they are going to settle back once you get everything reinstalled and start driving again. Get it close, try not to tear up when it changes.
I'm liking the build. You are doing an incredible job.
Hey Travis, That shroud trick, is pretty neat. I was planning on the electrial fan, but I don't think you can wrong with Georg's advice, so I'm in. I want to see your shroud, first. 
Ive run the (mechanical) clutch fans before, Its terrible when they fail on you, or better yet explode on you and your not only replacing a fan but a radiator as well. Im not saying its a bad option, just not the best option in my opinion as well as some of the more reputable shops mentioned here on this site.
The volvo fan that I mentioned above is a strong fan and with out a doubt the 105 amp alt that the 5.3 has, is fully capable of running it with out a problem. In fact here is a great thread on this exact fan. also click on the video once you get to the thread for a full run down on its capabilities....Its just another option and opinion guys.
VOLVO ELECTRIC FAN! LINK!
Travis,
What clutch fan are you useing. Mine didn't come with one.
Thanks, Ron
What clutch fan are you useing. Mine didn't come with one.
Thanks, Ron
M1A1cruiser
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #131
Alaska,
Thanks for the info. I appreciate this board, just for that reason - see earlier debate about motor mounts, and I am sure there'll be one later about wiring and/or monstaliner paint. All's for the good as it educates me and people like me who don't have a half-dozen swaps under their belt.
I'm sorta committed to going mechanical at this point 'cause wiring relays for the hi-lo, 1-2 speed electrics scares me more than building a shroud. We'll see.
Ron,
I bought a Hayden 2986 from the local parts place, and a standard reverse rotation fan from summit. As long as your pulley is threaded for it (I guess some aren't) shouldn't be a problem.
All for now.
TDC.-
Thanks for the info. I appreciate this board, just for that reason - see earlier debate about motor mounts, and I am sure there'll be one later about wiring and/or monstaliner paint. All's for the good as it educates me and people like me who don't have a half-dozen swaps under their belt.
I'm sorta committed to going mechanical at this point 'cause wiring relays for the hi-lo, 1-2 speed electrics scares me more than building a shroud. We'll see.
Ron,
I bought a Hayden 2986 from the local parts place, and a standard reverse rotation fan from summit. As long as your pulley is threaded for it (I guess some aren't) shouldn't be a problem.
All for now.
TDC.-
no worries Travis...
Thats why we are all here. Howell harness was kind enough to wire in the thermo and relays on my harness when I ordered it. Made it very simple....plug and play.
Keep up the fantastic work!
Thats why we are all here. Howell harness was kind enough to wire in the thermo and relays on my harness when I ordered it. Made it very simple....plug and play.
Keep up the fantastic work!
Awesome build Dude!
M1A1cruiser
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #134
The effort continues, though slowly.
Everyone says get all the little stuff before you begin a swap, but I dont' see how that's possible; I've encountered stuff (this is my first swap) that I didn't know was gonna be an issue until it happened. Some of it self inflicted (deciding to try a mechanical fan and then being distracted by building a fan shroud MONTHS before I'll ever realistically need one - I said in post 1 I'm sort of ADD/OCD at the same time), I'm learning all sorts of stuff about the fuel delivery and return as I discover I've "decided" something that will require four other steps to make possible, etc, etc.
So, I distract myself with other little stuff 'til the next step presents itself.
Putting the bumper together:
Fan shroud: (yes, it's hideous and I'll probably build another one - it's only time and a few dollars worth of fiberglass - but I want to see if/how this one works/fits before I invest more time in a prettier one)
I'll skim coat it and smooth and paint when I get back around to it!
-Custom fuel tank being built. ETA end of the month so i should probably start running the new fuel line, but that's self defeating if it's all gonna come out when the frame goes away for treatment
-Planning to get the frame to Oregon for chemical dip and then to Utah for galvanizing and powder - hopefully I can get those done this winter.
-THinking about wiring and how badly I really want to trace, remove/replace every individual wire (for example I'll hide a kill switch somewhere - interrupt the pump relay? interrupt the ignition switch?, make sure I don't interrupt power to the PCM, etc, etc - what about a stereo? The original head unit will be in the dash but I'll need something I can actually use somewhere else.
So you can see where my ADD becomes one fun little project into another...
So no real breakthroughs to share, just thought I'd freshen up the thread and keep myself going.
TDC.-
Everyone says get all the little stuff before you begin a swap, but I dont' see how that's possible; I've encountered stuff (this is my first swap) that I didn't know was gonna be an issue until it happened. Some of it self inflicted (deciding to try a mechanical fan and then being distracted by building a fan shroud MONTHS before I'll ever realistically need one - I said in post 1 I'm sort of ADD/OCD at the same time), I'm learning all sorts of stuff about the fuel delivery and return as I discover I've "decided" something that will require four other steps to make possible, etc, etc.
So, I distract myself with other little stuff 'til the next step presents itself.
Putting the bumper together:
Fan shroud: (yes, it's hideous and I'll probably build another one - it's only time and a few dollars worth of fiberglass - but I want to see if/how this one works/fits before I invest more time in a prettier one)
I'll skim coat it and smooth and paint when I get back around to it!
-Custom fuel tank being built. ETA end of the month so i should probably start running the new fuel line, but that's self defeating if it's all gonna come out when the frame goes away for treatment
-Planning to get the frame to Oregon for chemical dip and then to Utah for galvanizing and powder - hopefully I can get those done this winter.
-THinking about wiring and how badly I really want to trace, remove/replace every individual wire (for example I'll hide a kill switch somewhere - interrupt the pump relay? interrupt the ignition switch?, make sure I don't interrupt power to the PCM, etc, etc - what about a stereo? The original head unit will be in the dash but I'll need something I can actually use somewhere else.
So you can see where my ADD becomes one fun little project into another...
So no real breakthroughs to share, just thought I'd freshen up the thread and keep myself going.
TDC.-
spotcruiser
Geezer
A friend showed me his technique for building a fiberglass shroud, using a single sheet of particle board in a kind of reverse version of the hotrod form, and it works quite well. For the cloth, you want to use spandex t-shirt material so that you can pull most or all of the wrinkles out. I also added black pigment to the resin, so that I would have color throughout the shroud body.
spotcruiser
Geezer
Installed shroud. Let me know if you would like more info on how the form is made.
Hey Travis,
You've been busy! I like the looks of your bumper, is that the rear one? Maybe we can talk Spotcruiser, in to doing a step by step thread on fiberglassing.
Your tank looks to be pretty big, @ how many gals. Nice.
You've been busy! I like the looks of your bumper, is that the rear one? Maybe we can talk Spotcruiser, in to doing a step by step thread on fiberglassing
.Your tank looks to be pretty big, @ how many gals. Nice.
M1A1cruiser
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #139
PM'd Spotcruiser for help/instructions on that shroud.
It seems like I've seen it before and decided to go a slightly different route 'cause I thought I'd do OK. But that thing is SO nice I'm about willing to try again with a different system...
We'll see what comes in reply.
T.-
Oh the tank will be about 35 gallons. We started with the measurements from the MAF long range tank and trimmed here, added there to fit a stock chevy internal fuel pump. There are a dozen pumps out there that will fit different tank dimensions. I just happened to have one of the deep ones (I bought it 'cause it was a match for the engine I have) but didn't think about the depth of the stock chevy tank first (another one of those learn as I go things...) It'll end up being about the same depth as the MAF tank but shallower in the rear and without the round plug/sump that hangs off the bottom.
More to follow - lots to still learn as more parts come in and go together.
It seems like I've seen it before and decided to go a slightly different route 'cause I thought I'd do OK. But that thing is SO nice I'm about willing to try again with a different system...
We'll see what comes in reply.
T.-
Oh the tank will be about 35 gallons. We started with the measurements from the MAF long range tank and trimmed here, added there to fit a stock chevy internal fuel pump. There are a dozen pumps out there that will fit different tank dimensions. I just happened to have one of the deep ones (I bought it 'cause it was a match for the engine I have) but didn't think about the depth of the stock chevy tank first (another one of those learn as I go things...) It'll end up being about the same depth as the MAF tank but shallower in the rear and without the round plug/sump that hangs off the bottom.
More to follow - lots to still learn as more parts come in and go together.
Last edited:
spotcruiser
Geezer
I got your PM, Travis, and I'll try to put something together.
By the way, nice work on your install so far.
By the way, nice work on your install so far.
