Led headlight conversion (2 Viewers)
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Stonekutter, did you only install the 9006 (low beam)?
If I understand correctly, the DRLs are the high beams (9005) at a lower voltage. If you only install the LED low beams (9006) and leave the high beams alone, I would suspect the DRL to continue to work... But the lights would look like different colors (white and yellowish)...
However, JURELCATCHER said he replaced BOTH high and low (9005 and 9006) and his were working, as shown in the pictures he posted???
I wonder if there are some differences in these LEDs (or the little black box) where some may have a wider range of voltage or different min voltage required to light the LED???
85 SA Toy, I believe you said that yours worked when you first installed, and then they didn't (with some flashing), correct? I'm NOT an electrical engineer and I certainly don't know what I am talking about here, but I presume the voltage in a car's system varies a little bit (but still close to 12V) depending on the quality/age of battery as well as the quality/age and output of the alternator (like how your non-LED headlights dim slightly when starting or get slightly brighter when the engine is running v. not). I presume these differences could vary from car to car. It's a stretch, but I wonder of some have just enough voltage (which is reduced for DRL) to light the LED for DRL, and some don't??? Maybe someone who is more knowledgeable than I am could explain if this is feasible? You would think the bulbs would have enough range to handle the reduced voltage for DRL (I presume this is the problem)...
85 SA Toy, did you notice if your LED DRL came on and/or flashed when you revved the engine a little (theoretically increasing voltage slightly)? Maybe I'm just talking crazy now... Again, I certainly don't know what I'm talking about, just speculating.
Regardless, my DRLs are NOT working and I am not bothered by this at all. I simply run my headlights on ALL the time anyway. When I turn the key off and open the drivers door, my lights go off; when I start the car, they turn on. I never touch my headlight switch. No problem, and now cars not only see me from the front (as they would with DRLs only), but my tail lights are on all the time as well increasing visibility from the rear. I've been doing this for years and can't remember a light going out...
Just some thoughts...
Lee
2000 Land Cruiser
2004 Lx470
If I understand correctly, the DRLs are the high beams (9005) at a lower voltage. If you only install the LED low beams (9006) and leave the high beams alone, I would suspect the DRL to continue to work... But the lights would look like different colors (white and yellowish)...
However, JURELCATCHER said he replaced BOTH high and low (9005 and 9006) and his were working, as shown in the pictures he posted???
I wonder if there are some differences in these LEDs (or the little black box) where some may have a wider range of voltage or different min voltage required to light the LED???
85 SA Toy, I believe you said that yours worked when you first installed, and then they didn't (with some flashing), correct? I'm NOT an electrical engineer and I certainly don't know what I am talking about here, but I presume the voltage in a car's system varies a little bit (but still close to 12V) depending on the quality/age of battery as well as the quality/age and output of the alternator (like how your non-LED headlights dim slightly when starting or get slightly brighter when the engine is running v. not). I presume these differences could vary from car to car. It's a stretch, but I wonder of some have just enough voltage (which is reduced for DRL) to light the LED for DRL, and some don't??? Maybe someone who is more knowledgeable than I am could explain if this is feasible? You would think the bulbs would have enough range to handle the reduced voltage for DRL (I presume this is the problem)...
85 SA Toy, did you notice if your LED DRL came on and/or flashed when you revved the engine a little (theoretically increasing voltage slightly)? Maybe I'm just talking crazy now... Again, I certainly don't know what I'm talking about, just speculating.
Regardless, my DRLs are NOT working and I am not bothered by this at all. I simply run my headlights on ALL the time anyway. When I turn the key off and open the drivers door, my lights go off; when I start the car, they turn on. I never touch my headlight switch. No problem, and now cars not only see me from the front (as they would with DRLs only), but my tail lights are on all the time as well increasing visibility from the rear. I've been doing this for years and can't remember a light going out...
Just some thoughts...
Lee
2000 Land Cruiser
2004 Lx470
after thinking that my daytime running lights we're not working someone told me that my lights were flashing so if for some reason they flash sometimes but are not on at all most of the time. I guess I'll find a way to disable the drl. If anyone knows a way to disable the drl let me know please
I found a bulliten from toyota that explains how to disable the drl at the drl relay by removing the wire (pin 2 ) from the connector D8. the only downside is the auto headlights will not work correctly after this mod. I really like using the auto headlights. Anybody have any inputs or ideas?
I've tried to get a volt meter on the headlight while it is flashing but it does it so sporadically, I can't get any readings....... I took the approach others are taking leaving the low beams on as they do shut off as soon as car is off and door is opened! I'm still gonna try an figure out when and why this is happening just need to figure out what makes them flash.....
Muddy Bean
Breaking something or fixing something
There's a write up on the tech page about disabling your DRLs. Read it. Easy to do. I did it and my auto headlamp feature was unaffected
Two potential solutions:
1) Disable DRL by cutting the wire: https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/drl.164555/
2) Can you pull this TSB? Perhaps if you remove the resistor listed in the TSB below, the LED will get more voltage for the DRL and it might not flicker.
Safety Recall for Lexus LX470 1998-2005 Models
Summary: CERTAIN SPORT UTILITY VEHICLES FAIL TO COMPLY WITH THE REQUIREMENTS OF FEDERAL MOTOR VEHICLE SAFETY STANDARD NO. 108, "LAMPS, REFLECTIVE DEVICES, AND ASSOCIATED EQUIPMENT." THE DAYTIME RUNNING LIGHTS DO NOT MEET LUMINOUS INTENSITY STANDARD.
Make : LEXUS Model : LX470 Year : 1999 Manufacturer : TOYOTA MOTOR NORTH AMERICA, INC. NHTSA CAMPAIGN ID Number : 04V434000 Recall Date : SEP 07, 2004
Component: EXTERIOR LIGHTING:HEADLIGHTS Potential Number Of Units Affected : 75395
Consequence: THIS CONDITION COULD BLIND THE DRIVER OF A VEHICLE DRIVING IN THE OPPOSITE DIRECTION, INCREASING THE RISK OF A CRASH.
Remedy: DEALERS WILL INSTALL A RESISTOR, WHICH WILL DECREASE THE LUMINOUS INTENSITY OF THE DRL. OWNER NOTIFICATION BEGAN JUNE JUNE 10, 2005. OWNERS SHOULD CONTACT LEXUS AT 1-800-255-3987.
Notes: LEXUS RECALL NO. SSC 5LB. CUSTOMERS CAN ALSO CONTACT THE NATIONAL HIGHWAY TRAFFIC SAFETY ADMINISTRATION'S AUTO SAFETY HOTLINE AT 1-888-327-4236.
Has anyone tried these for an h1 bulb replacement?
https://www.superbrightleds.com/mor...-with-flexible-tinned-copper-braid/2216/5005/
https://www.superbrightleds.com/mor...-with-flexible-tinned-copper-braid/2216/5005/
When you installed the new LED's did you replace that plastic cap that was on the original bulb. I thought I read somewhere not to do that as the LED's run too hot to use it. Thanks
I replaced the halogen DRLs on my BMW with LEDs and had to install load resistors to eliminate the flicker and to prevent a warning light on the dash. Don't know if this would solve your problem but might be worth a try for $7 plus shipping. Try calling DDM for advice. I'm thinking of doing this mod on my LX470 DRLs and will report back with the results.
There is one issue with these LED's that nobody has brought up. I put these in my 80 series and found that driving in snow is HORRIBLE. The first time it snowed with these LED's I thought we were driving through a blizzard. I switched to my non LED high beams and realized it was just light snow fall. the white flakes bounce the light back at the drive making it almost impossible to see. If you live in an area that gets a lot of snow then you need to avoid these lights. They were pretty bad in rain as well. In every other driving condition they were awesome. I actually had to keep the factory bulbs in my glove box just in case it started snowing. I needed a way to get home safely.
Muddy Bean
Breaking something or fixing something
I agree. Wondering if installing Amber fogs and just running fogs during heavy snow would help
Has anyone tested the LED on LX projector or Morimoto projector? Is it true that LED cannot reflect well in projector headlamps? On the other hand, I was told that higher wattage HIDs produces strong UV that tarnish the projector's reflector causes the headlamp to be dim. Anyone can verified this information?
I was reading a article the other day about headlights. From what I can tell, headlights consist of 3 parts. The housing, the wiring and the bulb.
The stock housing are usually designed to project the stock type of bulb. According to the 2003 Lexus LX manual, 2003 Lexus LX 470 | Owners Manual - Page 405 , the LX's stock projector lens is designed to run with halogen's. However, you may be able to install led's but, here is my advice.
Since the LX's are designed to display Halogen lamps, putting in a LED may work but, the light will not be distributed evenly and, you could loose light performance.
I've reaserched this for around 2 hours and, I found another thread that explains it a little bit better than I can. Look at the first post.
2000UZJ's big HID thread - what, where and how
I'm guessing a retrofit could provide effective preformance?
The stock housing are usually designed to project the stock type of bulb. According to the 2003 Lexus LX manual, 2003 Lexus LX 470 | Owners Manual - Page 405 , the LX's stock projector lens is designed to run with halogen's. However, you may be able to install led's but, here is my advice.
Since the LX's are designed to display Halogen lamps, putting in a LED may work but, the light will not be distributed evenly and, you could loose light performance.
I've reaserched this for around 2 hours and, I found another thread that explains it a little bit better than I can. Look at the first post.
2000UZJ's big HID thread - what, where and how
I'm guessing a retrofit could provide effective preformance?
I tried an H1 LED bulb in the low beam projectors on our LX470, unfortunately the bulbs wouldn't fit in to the hole on the headlight housing. Even if they did, the back of the LED bulb would have prevented the dust cover from going on. Below is a link to the bulbs I tried:
http://www.amazon.com/Automotive-LE...UTF8&qid=1448664555&sr=1-1&keywords=2s+h1+led
I really like the LEDs in our LC, but I'm not sure any of the H1 LED bulbs will work in the LX housing?
I will probably go with some HIDs in the stock LX projector housing, if anyone else has had any luck replacing an H1 bulb on the LX projector, let me know.
Thanks
Lee
'04 LX470
'00 LC
http://www.amazon.com/Automotive-LE...UTF8&qid=1448664555&sr=1-1&keywords=2s+h1+led
I really like the LEDs in our LC, but I'm not sure any of the H1 LED bulbs will work in the LX housing?
I will probably go with some HIDs in the stock LX projector housing, if anyone else has had any luck replacing an H1 bulb on the LX projector, let me know.
Thanks
Lee
'04 LX470
'00 LC
I just tried putting in 40w LED bulbs into the high, then low, then fog lights, they all were plug and play but nothing worked... And because the bulb was a lot longer than standard bulbs I also managed to crack the $!"?!* glass around the LED... Eventually removed the dual Battery's and they went in easy enough but nothing worked, wondered if it was because the highs were 60W, lows were 51W and the LED's were 40W and the computer picked that up?
