Searched the FAQ and forums with mixed answers. I've got a hairline crack on the Y-pipe collector tubes. Anyone weld or braze this area with good results? I'm thinking about going the brazing route. Thanks!
Leaking Y-pipe (1 Viewer)
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Overland Tailor
Boltripper
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I'd TIG with appropriate filler wire, but issue is when I looked at mine was that there is way too much corrosion to do any sort of repair that would last.
Search for Bosal Y-Pipe.. That's one of the available replacement off the shelf.. Depending on your year OEM might still be available.
I went with EMSP complete exhaust system but that's not an option now. I've also done enough tig work and additional mufflers to make it civil that I should have just replaced it with a new complete OEM system. Sad to say but I would have come out ahead~'
Try rock auto for Bosal or Call Onur at Nally Toyota Stonecrest (678) 987-6423 for MUD Discounts on OEM parts~
Best of luck
John -
Search for Bosal Y-Pipe.. That's one of the available replacement off the shelf.. Depending on your year OEM might still be available.
I went with EMSP complete exhaust system but that's not an option now. I've also done enough tig work and additional mufflers to make it civil that I should have just replaced it with a new complete OEM system. Sad to say but I would have come out ahead~'
Try rock auto for Bosal or Call Onur at Nally Toyota Stonecrest (678) 987-6423 for MUD Discounts on OEM parts~
Best of luck
John -
The why on my 97 was cracked right before I bought it. Previous owner welded and it has been holding up. I didn't think it would.
Mine was welded 3 years ago still good.
I'd think as long as you can scrape/wire brush most of the rust/gunk off of it and get a decent MIG bead on it you'd be OK.
Magnaflow makes a replacement "Y" pipe as well: https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/anyone-using-the-magnaflow-y-pipe-and-cats.733957/
Magnaflow makes a replacement "Y" pipe as well: https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/anyone-using-the-magnaflow-y-pipe-and-cats.733957/
How long are you planning to keep the truck? The pipe you have is 15 years old. Oem is your best bet for longevity. IMO.
I had a repair done on mine (welded) a couple weeks ago and it has held up very well. My problem was on the inner side of the 'Y'. Now the other side has blown out. Ughh.
Generally welding to the exhaust system is difficult because of the thin materials and rust. My exhaust guy was able to build up his weld from the top to the bottom with good success as the material is very thick (at the top and bottom) from the factory. He was leery to even try but felt good with the result. I'm trying to schedule a time with him to attempt the same repair on the outter side. This side is more difficult to get to but we may take the wheel off or just turn it all the way to the left to gain more access. It won't be easy due to limited clearance. I recommend you have both sides welded if you go this route. Ideally, you would remove the 'Y' all together for better access on the bench. I can't do that without cutting my system apart. BTW, he charged me $20 for the work and I expect it will be the same this time too. Good luck.
Generally welding to the exhaust system is difficult because of the thin materials and rust. My exhaust guy was able to build up his weld from the top to the bottom with good success as the material is very thick (at the top and bottom) from the factory. He was leery to even try but felt good with the result. I'm trying to schedule a time with him to attempt the same repair on the outter side. This side is more difficult to get to but we may take the wheel off or just turn it all the way to the left to gain more access. It won't be easy due to limited clearance. I recommend you have both sides welded if you go this route. Ideally, you would remove the 'Y' all together for better access on the bench. I can't do that without cutting my system apart. BTW, he charged me $20 for the work and I expect it will be the same this time too. Good luck.
Do you think OEM will last longer than an EMS stainless system? I know stainless was an option for at least one year on the 80
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- #9
Thanks guys, I'm gonna try to weld it, see how it holds up. I'm afraid if i go for the replacement, its gonna be a whole new can of worms, broken/frozen bolts, cats ……original pipes…..
This is true regarding rust ,and parts not willing to be separated,,I went with oem,,, had to use a sawzall and cutoff wheel after, I disconnected the exhaust headers first and tapped up up that area, "did not want all that debris going into engine" lots of rust ,,, oem is worth the plug and play. I still do not understand why that y pipe on my 1996 1zfe engine only has one side of it with a stand off bracket to the chasis for support and the other side does not. it seems as if that ,,,,there is a lot of weight, heat, flexing, etc for it not to be secured on both down pipes on that y pipe assembly. I have seen toyota diagrams showing this extra bracket but not avail in the us as i was told. Does not make sense. If anyone knows this part and number, please post it here. I do see a pre drilled and threaded hole for such a part to work on my chassis,,, I am no engineer,,, but it seems as if the reason of these y pipes all failing is due to a design flaw. i have seen in person the failry new tacos and possibly fj's , there are flex pipes and special angled pipes that are rippled to handle flexing better.
Also , check your rubber isolators where the hangers attach to the body,, mine were toasted and some were broken....
CRUISER MONKEY
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My weld lasted about 6 months. I buggered it myself with my Mig. Corrosion was very bad. Ended up with an EMS system there after.
alia176
SILVER Star
Mine was cracked at the "crotch" area and I was able to TIG weld it shut. I had zero corrosion so it worked out. You can always purchase a Bosal unit for not too much coin if you have lots of corrosion on your downpipe.
inkpot
SILVER Star
I had mine welded by a locally owned (not a chain) muffler shop. They are much more proficient at welding under a rig than I am. Cost me about $25 and it has lasted 2.5 years so far. John
Mig the crotch on a couple different 80's Y pipes with good results.
Depending on your year, I believe the exhaust is Stainless (409L I think) and it can be welded with SS wire or rod (308L I think). I did a bunch of research, replied to a PM about it, and I have lost it all due to the change-over. I hope Woody can find it again...
409SS will rust and appear as if it is carbon steel due to its grade. New aftermarket exhaust systems are typically made of 304SS and are better suited to these applications. OEM's typically use the 409 because, yes, it's SS and it can be sold as that, it's just a poor grade and much more economical for a production facility to use that grade. You can weld new to old using the 308L SS wire.
Typically, the best way to weld the wye-pipe is from the INSIDE (cut it off just below the Y, weld the inside of the Y, then mate it up and weld the outside back together) That helps alleviate the problem of too thin of material remaining. Yes, the OEM SS does oxidize and get thinner with time and heat cycles. Welding it from the inside helps reduce the HAZ (Heat-Affected-Zone) and will reduce the possibility of future cracking.
However, for $25, I'd have a local guy burn some wire on it a couple times before I'd replace it. I just may do that since mine is leaking at the Y......
409SS will rust and appear as if it is carbon steel due to its grade. New aftermarket exhaust systems are typically made of 304SS and are better suited to these applications. OEM's typically use the 409 because, yes, it's SS and it can be sold as that, it's just a poor grade and much more economical for a production facility to use that grade. You can weld new to old using the 308L SS wire.
Typically, the best way to weld the wye-pipe is from the INSIDE (cut it off just below the Y, weld the inside of the Y, then mate it up and weld the outside back together) That helps alleviate the problem of too thin of material remaining. Yes, the OEM SS does oxidize and get thinner with time and heat cycles. Welding it from the inside helps reduce the HAZ (Heat-Affected-Zone) and will reduce the possibility of future cracking.
However, for $25, I'd have a local guy burn some wire on it a couple times before I'd replace it. I just may do that since mine is leaking at the Y......
- Thread starter
- #16
MIG'd the pipes, added an exhaust hanger after the cats to help with the weight….seems good so far!! Thanks guys!!
Had the same crack in the Y pipe crotch area. I used some car-go thermo steel high temp stuff. Was like 10 bucks and has been holding up well over a year. Might be with trying for people who have no access to a welder.
85badger
TLCA #23852
sorry to revive an old thread....
Mine is leaking now too. Tried the JB Weld method twice then covered with titanium tube wrap to try to hold it all together but that didn't hold, so now I'm going to try to lay a bead of weld on it. If that doesn't work I'm going to get the bosal y-pipe.
Did anyone notice a drop in mileage (I know dumb question) but I mean really bad mileage, like less than 185 miles on a full tank before the light comes on mileage? Since I've noticed the leak, mine has been sucking the gas. Is this an O2 sensor over compensating for the leak, either too much O2 in the system or what? Just trying to figure out if I've got another problem. I've checked the dizzy and rotor, looked good, probably due for plugs but haven't checked them...just grasping for an answer to this. Thanks
Mine is leaking now too. Tried the JB Weld method twice then covered with titanium tube wrap to try to hold it all together but that didn't hold, so now I'm going to try to lay a bead of weld on it. If that doesn't work I'm going to get the bosal y-pipe.
Did anyone notice a drop in mileage (I know dumb question) but I mean really bad mileage, like less than 185 miles on a full tank before the light comes on mileage? Since I've noticed the leak, mine has been sucking the gas. Is this an O2 sensor over compensating for the leak, either too much O2 in the system or what? Just trying to figure out if I've got another problem. I've checked the dizzy and rotor, looked good, probably due for plugs but haven't checked them...just grasping for an answer to this. Thanks
I have used a Bosal and a Magnaflow replacement.
Bosal required serious modification to fit. Had to spread the "y" like an inch with a vice and a giant C clamp, place a piece of lumber in the middle so it wouldn't "spring back" then mount it onto the manifolds and cut the lumber out of the middle. The part that goes over the frame rail has about 1/8" clearance, I'm surprised it hasn't started vibrating yet. And then after all that, the lower section isn't long enough to reach the stock 2nd cat and needs an extra 2" of pipe welded in. I have no idea how these got past QC, but they definitively do not fit. Or at least mine didn't.
Magnaflow fits like a glove and is at least as good as OEM, if not better.
Bosal required serious modification to fit. Had to spread the "y" like an inch with a vice and a giant C clamp, place a piece of lumber in the middle so it wouldn't "spring back" then mount it onto the manifolds and cut the lumber out of the middle. The part that goes over the frame rail has about 1/8" clearance, I'm surprised it hasn't started vibrating yet. And then after all that, the lower section isn't long enough to reach the stock 2nd cat and needs an extra 2" of pipe welded in. I have no idea how these got past QC, but they definitively do not fit. Or at least mine didn't.
Magnaflow fits like a glove and is at least as good as OEM, if not better.
Had a leak on mine in Y position for years and went thru multiple JB Welds, other compounds, few welds (that came out) . Eventually got a weld done that has held up for last 1.5 yrs.
However have recently popped another hole where pipe attachs to headers. No way to get welder up there so just keep putting in exhaust putty. Lasts for a few days and pops and get P0420 and back back under there again.
Plan on complete stainless replacement at some stage all the way back (including hangers) to finally get it all sorted.
However have recently popped another hole where pipe attachs to headers. No way to get welder up there so just keep putting in exhaust putty. Lasts for a few days and pops and get P0420 and back back under there again.
Plan on complete stainless replacement at some stage all the way back (including hangers) to finally get it all sorted.
