So I am just in need of a bit of advice. A month ago I replaced the timing belt/WP cam/crank seals etc....Well I have developed a nice little oil leak from the passenger cam seal. I am wondering how far I need to take this thing apart again to get to that seal. Am I crazy in thinking that once I get the cover off I should be able to pull the cam sprocket off without fulling disassembling the timing belt and have access to the seal. I am just trying to save myself as much physical labor as possible (I hurt my back and my chiro is really not happy that I am doing my own repairs) and really don't feel like setting the timing again. I have to replace the 20 year old radiator (it was damaged when I did TB) anyway but am really annoyed that a $16 seal is going to cause me so much damn work. The other seals and such are holding up well its just the pass side. Any help or tricks would be greatly appreciated....worst case scenario I just get really good at timing belt replacements.
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- Thread starter
- #3
Yeah that's kinda what I was worried about as well as the tensioner being a problem. I'll likely just take the whole damn thing apart to make sure its done correctly because once its back together its never coming apart again haha.
Hope you got a non VVTi engine. If you got VVTi, you will have to remove the cams from the engine.
You can relieve the tension if you set all the marks (2 cam and 1 crank) to proper setting. Two cam marks has to come to 12 O clock marks and the crank pulley I think should point to zero (the dimple on the crank timing belt sprocket should match the dimple on the oil pump housing)
Once the tension is relieved, you should be able to remove the cam sprocket without affecting the timing. Make sure you are NOT loosing the belt's tension at the time of the removal. Keep the belt pulled towards the passenger side fender by attaching a bungee cord to the belt.
You can relieve the tension if you set all the marks (2 cam and 1 crank) to proper setting. Two cam marks has to come to 12 O clock marks and the crank pulley I think should point to zero (the dimple on the crank timing belt sprocket should match the dimple on the oil pump housing)
Once the tension is relieved, you should be able to remove the cam sprocket without affecting the timing. Make sure you are NOT loosing the belt's tension at the time of the removal. Keep the belt pulled towards the passenger side fender by attaching a bungee cord to the belt.
on a 6 cyl 2jz toyota engine I was able to replace the leaking cam seals without removing the lower timing cover & flywheel. It appears this engine can be done the same way.
1. line up all timing marks
2. remove belt tensioner
3. remove cam shaft sprockets / replace seals
4. reinstall cam sprockets and confirm all timing marks still line up
5. Compress tensioner in vice and pin it in compressed position with allen wrench that will fit throu hole
6. reinstall tensioner on engine and pull pin to re-tension belt
7. again verify timing marks line up - rotate flywheel pulley several time to confirm marks still in alignment
I doubt that you can reinstall the cam gears/belt without removing the tensioner first.
1. line up all timing marks
2. remove belt tensioner
3. remove cam shaft sprockets / replace seals
4. reinstall cam sprockets and confirm all timing marks still line up
5. Compress tensioner in vice and pin it in compressed position with allen wrench that will fit throu hole
6. reinstall tensioner on engine and pull pin to re-tension belt
7. again verify timing marks line up - rotate flywheel pulley several time to confirm marks still in alignment
I doubt that you can reinstall the cam gears/belt without removing the tensioner first.
