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- #21
I got one. Thanks. I doo need the sheet metal covers though. You got?
Builds LCOwner's build up 1.0 (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter LCOwner
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- Thread starter
- #22
So after the little one sick and then passing it off to dad I finally get back into the shop and got the front springs back in. I hate welding upside down but I'm happy with the way it came out. Like Kavik I want to keep the lift as low as possable, lower the bump stops and cut the fenders if needed. As it sits now the front is almost 4" lower than the back so I'm going to mix and match some shackle lengths to make it up.
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Right on! You may want to experiment w/ moving the front axle to the forward hole in the spring perch.
I deliberately moved my front axle forward about an inch when I relocated the hangers. I figured I could use all the room I could get at the rear of the fender well.
Keep it up, you will be really stoked when it's a roller.
I deliberately moved my front axle forward about an inch when I relocated the hangers. I figured I could use all the room I could get at the rear of the fender well.
Keep it up, you will be really stoked when it's a roller.
how far back are your front spring perchs set back from the front of the frame? Is the axle centerline the same as stock or set forward or back? thanks
Looking good Tim. So is the "cop motor" going in now or is that on hold?
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- #27
It's going in later. I just want to wheel this summer and this is the quickest way to do it.
Post up on your problem and figure out a solution before I do mine 
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- #29
So it was a busy week but not for this project. Waiting for parts sucks. In any case I puttered around today and fabbed up the beginings of my twin stick shifter. After I cut half the head off the 6"x5/8 bolt and polished it with emry cloth I welded it to the bracket.
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- #30
I found a piece of galvanized water pipe that with a little file work fit nicely on the bolt. I ground off the galvanizing and when I get the t-case back together I'll finish it up.
Disclaimer: If you plan to weld any material with galvanizing on it, be sure to grind it off or soak it off with muratic acid. The gasses set off by welding can make you real sick.
Disclaimer: If you plan to weld any material with galvanizing on it, be sure to grind it off or soak it off with muratic acid. The gasses set off by welding can make you real sick.
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- Thread starter
- #31
The sitcks will be up a little farther when it's all finished. I got the high/low, in/out knobs form Marlin although you can't see them.
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- #32
A little problem I'm having with the Ruff Stuff parts. Rotating the pinion angle up makes the hole for the front bolt too close to the housing. I spoke to Dan a while back about this and he was going to do a little redesign and get me an up-dated piece but I haven't seen it on my door step so far.
Jason and I talked about this today. What about welding a nut on the bottom side and just run a bolt itno it kind of like the Dodge 60s? Or Jason thought of using a socket head cap screw. The narrower head might fit from the bottom.
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- #34
With the ToyBox moving the t-case back some 6"+ I would think my pinion angle would be less that someone without it. So the plate is deffinatly an issue. I still haven't got enough angle IMO.
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- #35
I'd still need to grind the poo out of a nut to get it to fit. The socket head might work. Do you think National Hardware would have one? I'm still going to call Dan on Monday and see where he is with it.
If any place in town would it'd be National. I've got some decent sized Socket head cap screws from them.
What is the length from the bellhousing to your front output? On Jason's we are looking @ somewhere between 42 and 46" so we won't need a ton more pinion angle.
Just curious from your pics what we will be looking at.
Just curious from your pics what we will be looking at.
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- #38
Bell housing at the engine or bell housing at the trans? This is a 420 i'm puting in remember.
looking good
Yeah I remember the 420. From the back of the block to the fron output location. Curious how much further back Jason't front output will be.
