Disappointed is an understatement. Normally, I'd install myself. However, work/covid/family had all my time allocated. As such, I used "what used to be a reputable shop" on the last minute upgrade to my LC before a 6 week road trip. It's partially my fault as I didn't double check the airbags before we left (they were installed two days before the trip). Literally 20 minutes into the trip, I had to pull over because the LC was handling so poorly. That's when I figured out the passenger side wasn't holding air. I was able to get a local shop in Steamboat to help me with it when I got there (shoutout to Rush's Auto Care in Steamboat that helped me fix the issue). Lesson learned. PM me if you want to know what shop in DFW I won't be using again.
LC 200 Air Bag Suspension install (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter kdurk
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
FrazzledHunter
SILVER Star
At least you found out right away and it didn't fail 1000's of miles from home.
Taking a trailer on a dry run is something I need to do to test out my newly installed brake controller. Problem is, I don't have a new trailer yet and I can't imagine asking someone to borrow one to do the test. I mean, who in their right mind would agree to such a thing LOL.
The Redarc controller is great. I think it defaults to linear braking, not proportional, so you have to switch it over (apply brakes, turn to 0, press twice, IIRC). It takes a bit for the unit to calibrate the first time (or recalibrate if you disconnect the battery).
FrazzledHunter
SILVER Star
I just re-read the manual for the umpteenth time and I'm definitely going to have to practice this once I get hitched.
Wait for it to get itself in sync first, otherwise while it does change over it's hard to tell because the light doesn't go from green to blue, but from cycling rainbow colors to cycling rainbow colors. While it's syncing it'll operate in the linear mode, so you'll have to adjust the braking force with the knob initially, but you can still drive with it. (Supposedly the unit can normalize without the trailer attached but that never seemed to work for me).
afgman786
SILVER Star
As Linuxgod stated, it takes some time to calibrate when you first hook up a trailer. I just installed a RedArc and it was a good 20-25mins of driving before it finally calibrated.
How is the ride with airbags at their lowest setting? I've had two tundras with airbags, obviously with leaf springs in the rear. There was a noticable difference in the ride after installing the airbags. Not terribly stiffer, but noticable. I'm curious how the LC 200 rides with the airbags in the coil like that.
I noticed no difference in ride with 5lb of air in Firestone Coil Rite airbags in my 2016 LC, versus stock. The rear is @1/2” - 3/4” higher with them in with minimal pressure, versus stock, so I am surprised that the ride wasn’t affected. But I couldn't tell a difference. Obviously with higher air pressures in them the ride is more firm.
I just installed bags to the LX. As it has the ability to lower its suspension via AHC, it's been useful to test airbag interaction. I've noticed a few things
- 5PSI in bags at ride height does add some progressive spring rate effects. Not that the ride is bad or firm at all as it's still super plush (at least with AHC) in its initial travel, but it does change it ever so slightly in that it doesn't compress as far. Fine and good for on-road. But off-road may want more linear travel for maximum articulation without the progressive rate air bag limiting travel. Prob need to lower below 5PSI at ride height to achieve that.
- Verified that it does reduce, or at least resist travel. Putting AHC in L causes the bags to compress and I'm seeing about 14PSI. Releasing the pressure further allows the suspension to drop further.
- Bags work great to level the rig side to side, which will be handy for car camping
I'll likely fill 5PSi at AHC low to allow for maximum articulation off-road. And use about 5-10 PSI at normal height when towing a trailer.
- 5PSI in bags at ride height does add some progressive spring rate effects. Not that the ride is bad or firm at all as it's still super plush (at least with AHC) in its initial travel, but it does change it ever so slightly in that it doesn't compress as far. Fine and good for on-road. But off-road may want more linear travel for maximum articulation without the progressive rate air bag limiting travel. Prob need to lower below 5PSI at ride height to achieve that.
- Verified that it does reduce, or at least resist travel. Putting AHC in L causes the bags to compress and I'm seeing about 14PSI. Releasing the pressure further allows the suspension to drop further.
- Bags work great to level the rig side to side, which will be handy for car camping
I'll likely fill 5PSi at AHC low to allow for maximum articulation off-road. And use about 5-10 PSI at normal height when towing a trailer.
Last edited:
I had the Firestone airbags on a previous 100 series and they worked great. Now that I'm looking at towing trailers periodically for work I'm looking at them again for my 200.
I don't see where the Airbag Man airbags (CR5051HP) are offered here in the U.S., only thru their Australia location, unless someone knows where I can buy stateside.
Is it worth the added cost for the Airbag Man kit vs. the Firestone kit I can buy at multiple online stores? Actually, can't even really compare price as Airbag Man does not list price. The Firestone Coil-Rite Air Helper Springs model F4164 I can get for around $90.00.
I don't see where the Airbag Man airbags (CR5051HP) are offered here in the U.S., only thru their Australia location, unless someone knows where I can buy stateside.
Is it worth the added cost for the Airbag Man kit vs. the Firestone kit I can buy at multiple online stores? Actually, can't even really compare price as Airbag Man does not list price. The Firestone Coil-Rite Air Helper Springs model F4164 I can get for around $90.00.
I've only run the firestone kit but in my experience it works fine.
I think @indycole has the airbag man kit and IIRC there are some benefits like the ability to run 0 psi in it (vs the 5psi nominally required in the firestone kit).
I did have an issue with my firestone bags when I swapped springs. The fittings don't take too kindly to removing and reinstalling the air lines. Firestone was extremely unhelpful with my issue. If I had to buy new bags I would buy airbag man simply because of the awful warranty support
I think @indycole has the airbag man kit and IIRC there are some benefits like the ability to run 0 psi in it (vs the 5psi nominally required in the firestone kit).
I did have an issue with my firestone bags when I swapped springs. The fittings don't take too kindly to removing and reinstalling the air lines. Firestone was extremely unhelpful with my issue. If I had to buy new bags I would buy airbag man simply because of the awful warranty support
I think the 5PSI requirement is largely due to the cutting of the bump stop. Without it, the airbag replaces that function and therefore is necessary to run some minimal pressure.
If it works for you and the LC has the same bracket, here's a great place to locate the valve under the tailgate cover
If it works for you and the LC has the same bracket, here's a great place to locate the valve under the tailgate cover
I’m not sure that’s the reason, but it is why I abide by the “nominal psi” rule.
FYI Firestone says you have to leave 5psi in it so the bags don’t get pinched between the springs and tear during compression. You’d think it wouldn’t matter because the bag should stay inside the spring, but in my experience the bags stretch a bit after some use and you end up with grooves in them where the spring wraps around as the bag stretches into the coil free space a bit. So I could see an empty bag getting pinched and not slipping back into the inside of the coil.
I don’t know if the internal jounce stop is really necessary to prevent damage during quick compression, or just for comfort. There is an external bump stop which should prevent damage, though a quick full compression without the internal jounce might be teeth jarring. So yeah that’s really why I keep some pressure in mine
I don’t think fully deflating would do much anyway. Having wheeled with the bags installed, I haven’t noticed a big difference in flexibility. If you think about 5psi in a passenger car tire that normally holds 30psi then it sure seems like the bag should compress just fine under the weight of a vehicle
I like that. Great location. I should be able to make that work on the LC.
@TeCKis300 - looks like I have same bracket. Did you bend yours down a bit to make it easier to connect air hose?
Yup, bend down. It's pretty light sheet metal and easy to do. I used a scrap metal bar with a hammer to tap it down since pliers have a hard time getting the right angle at it. Could probably use a socket extension to do the same.
Then a sheet metal stepped bit to open up the holes just a tad. Touchup paint. And good to go.
Seeding more ideas. If you're ever mounting a rear air quick connect for OBA and easy airbag inflation, here's a great spot under that same tailgate cover.
forum.ih8mud.com
And since I hide my inflator and hose in the bottle jack cubby, it makes it all pretty convenient.
Power Steering Relocation Bracket and Dual OBA
Having done a power steering relocation mod recently for a yet to be completed twinz project, thought this would be useful for others on how to create a simple and effective relocation bracket. I know others have needed to relocate the PS for other reasons, including fitting dual batts. Here's...
forum.ih8mud.com
And since I hide my inflator and hose in the bottle jack cubby, it makes it all pretty convenient.
Linuxgod: Have air bags in route. Was going to attempt this my self. Question.... if you need to remove and cut the bump stop rubber and re-install, then where do your route the air line? All of the videos i have watched run the air line up through the top of the spring mount, through the bolt hole where the bump stop is/was mounted?
There is a hole in the center of the internal bump stop (jounce stop). The air line feeds right through it. The internal bump stop doesn’t have a bolt/nut… it’s held in place because it has a wide lip which fits between the top of the spring and the frame mount/cradle/whatever it’s called.
when you pull the spring the jounce stop comes out with it. You just lift it out, cut it down 3 or 4 rings (depending on whether or not you have a lift), insert the airbag with the connector facing up, then reinsert the jounce stop, and feed the air line through it. The airline goes up i through the spring perch at the top and then zip tie the heck out of it along the frame.
Note that you do NOT leave slack in the airline. When your springs are fully extended the bags “hang” in the air inside the spring, always resting against the jounce stop.
when you pull the spring the jounce stop comes out with it. You just lift it out, cut it down 3 or 4 rings (depending on whether or not you have a lift), insert the airbag with the connector facing up, then reinsert the jounce stop, and feed the air line through it. The airline goes up i through the spring perch at the top and then zip tie the heck out of it along the frame.
Note that you do NOT leave slack in the airline. When your springs are fully extended the bags “hang” in the air inside the spring, always resting against the jounce stop.
so i have wheels off, shocks unbolted and was able to remove the driver side spring. The passenger side is another matter. Cant quite get the axle to drop far enough to pull the spring. Not sure which of the suspension parts to unbolt next? You tube videos i have seen are conflicting on this issue.
