LC 200 Air Bag Suspension install

[linuxgod]

so i have wheels off, shocks unbolted and was able to remove the driver side spring. The passenger side is another matter. Cant quite get the axle to drop far enough to pull the spring. Not sure which of the suspension parts to unbolt next? You tube videos i have seen are conflicting on this issue.

I had a lot of trouble with this myself. I:

• removed the shocks from the bottom mount
• removed the screw holding the diff breather
• removed all 4 sway bar bolts which mount it into the diff. these were a PITA to realign

I used a ~4' prying bar (black iron gas pipe from home depot) to get enough movement to get the spring to rotate out and the new one back in. I tried stuff like compressing the driver's side with my floor jack but that didn't seem to do much.

After struggling with it I later heard if you unbolt the panhard rod that will allow the diff to drop a bit further, so you might try that

 

[Nola622]

The only sway bar component you have to disconnect to get the passenger side to droop enough is the passenger side end-link where it goes vertically up to the mount. There is a 14mm nut at the top with some washers and rubber bushings. After that is disconnected, you can get the spring out either by having a helper step on the wheel studs while you remove the coil, or do what I do when I work by myself and use a clamp reversed into a spreader to push down on the axle from the bump stop.

To reconnect that sway bar end link, I use my floor jack with an extension the size of a coke can to push up on the bar just before the hinged link goes vertical and push that thing back into its mount (making sure the lipped washer goes in the hole) and then replace the top rubber bushing, washer and 14mm nut. A ratcheting closed-end wrench is the easiest to use on that thing.

KDSS valves should be open 2.5-3 turns (no more!) whenever you are working that kind of stuff. It will make moving the sway bar easier.

Attached is a photo of my clamp-spreader that I use when I don't have a helper (which is always, boo hoo).

 

[wingshooter8800]

The only sway bar component you have to disconnect to get the passenger side to droop enough is the passenger side end-link where it goes vertically up to the mount. There is a 14mm nut at the top with some washers and rubber bushings. After that is disconnected, you can get the spring out either by having a helper step on the wheel studs while you remove the coil, or do what I do when I work by myself and use a clamp reversed into a spreader to push down on the axle from the bump stop.

To reconnect that sway bar end link, I use my floor jack with an extension the size of a coke can to push up on the bar just before the hinged link goes vertical and push that thing back into its mount (making sure the lipped washer goes in the hole) and then replace the top rubber bushing, washer and 14mm nut. A ratcheting closed-end wrench is the easiest to use on that thing.

KDSS valves should be open 2.5-3 turns (no more!) whenever you are working that kind of stuff. It will make moving the sway bar easier.

Attached is a photo of my clamp-spreader that I use when I don't have a helper (which is always, boo hoo).

View attachment 2755414

I did exactly as you described. And yes the sway bar was a bitch to put back, used jack on the opposing side, plus ratchet strap. Good times....

 

[boozewz]

Not necessarily a 200, but got airbags installed on my 300 GX, and thanks to inspiration from this thread, we relocated the valves from out of harms way under the bumper to be next to the entry port for the spare tire lowering mechanism.

We have the 5051 airbags, similar to the 200. Currently running 8psi unloaded, and 30 when pulling a camper trailer.

Split tailgate is now long forgotten