Builds Layonnn's 100 series build

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I clean up area a few days ago the same way more or less with brushes and brake cleaner. Like I said you inspired me. If i do get to it I'll use micro fiber rags and turn crank to work each port with valves closed.
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I did swab out the intake with a micro fiber soaked in gasoline. It was last think I did in evening so I could quickly leave the area. Notice the plastic intake will not split apart.
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I'm playing catch up now waiting on the fuel injects. So I may yet get to the head ports

That's looking pretty clean! I was going to suggest rotating the cam pulley to cycle the valves to close them. How many full rotations would you need to make to be back where it needs to be?!?
When I had the aluminum intake and valve covers off, i tried cleaning those with a variety of products as well to no avail. I recently watched a YouTube video where a guy cleaned a heavily oxidized aluminum intake with a wire wheel on a dremel and it came out looking like new. So I might give that a try.

Got the engine bay finished up. To my dismay, my compressor is still shooting out a tiny mist of gear oil out the solenoid, which according to an ARB tech is pretty normal. I purged the lines (after removing lower side from diff) with compressed air, then brake clean, then a lot more air. Wiring could be neater, I'll tackle that another day.

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That's looking pretty clean! I was going to suggest rotating the cam pulley to cycle the valves to close them. How many full rotations would you need to make to be back where it needs to be?!?
When I had the aluminum intake and valve covers off, i tried cleaning those with a variety of products as well to no avail. I recently watched a YouTube video where a guy cleaned a heavily oxidized aluminum intake with a wire wheel on a dremel and it came out looking like new. So I might give that a try.

Got the engine bay finished up. To my dismay, my compressor is still shooting out a tiny mist of gear oil out the solenoid, which according to an ARB tech is pretty normal. I purged the lines (after removing lower side from diff) with compressed air, then brake clean, then a lot more air. Wiring could be neater, I'll tackle that another day.

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2 full rotation on crank brings timing marks back to start. So I suppose that would put each cylinder into compression stroke (valves closed). Hurts my head contemplating before first cup of coffee.:confused: Should have cleaned while I had plugs out and fan off, now will PITA.

I just used solvent, water (HP washer) and air on the aluminium.
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FWIW: I just saw and interesting piece on the old carburetor intake. Today they intentionally cut intake ports rough to disturb air follow thus increase atomization. We would port and polish intake and head ports getting walls as smooth as glass, we had it wrong! Always learning!
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Got my front runner rack installed. Had a little rust under the stock roof rack so cleaned that all up with wire wheel on dremel, used some POR15 metal prep, 2 coats primer, 2 coats paint.

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Finally finished up installing my Wagon Gear tailgate storage and installed some sound deadening mat with aluminum backing. This thing is extremely well built. I wish Kevin would make a rear window wing for the 100 series.

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I also finally got around to replacing the motor in the DS door lock actuator. While the plastic epoxy was setting I took some of the sound deadening material and lined the inside of the driver door with it.
Also, I have a 2001 and the motor was the style with the brass collar on the shaft.

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Have 4 quarts of Toyota ATF WS fluid coming in and plan on doing a drain and refill of the transmission. I don't see any records from the previous owners of any change in the fluid so I'm interested to see what comes out.

Think I might have a leak at the back (driveshaft side) of the front diff. Seems to be wet in that area and I had to add some fluid the other day to the front diff. I'm hoping that is a seal that I can replace and not a $500 repair that requires the gears to be reset.
 
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Finally got a chance to install a voltage gauge for the auxiliary battery. It's constantly on but drawing about 1mA from what I've read. I plan to install a small switch under the gauge to be able to turn it off, at night it is kind of bright. It appears fuzzy in pics, but it is crystal clear in person. Brand is mictuning, about $7 on Amazon. It makes my dash lights appear very faded, even. Ore reason to switch them out to green LEDs haha.

Also added a Sony headunit to replace my "works when it wants to and shut off after every bump in the road" old headunit haha.
Added a rear back up camera as well. A 35" tire on a swing out mounted on the PS leaves very little rear view visibility. I know companies do this to balance out the weight of the driver and battery and gas tank, but I would much rather have it on the DS to have better visibility out the rear. Sadly, Slee isn't in the business of doing "custom" stuff for most of their gear, at least not when I asked.

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I wanted to unspool my Titan tw12 winch and give my synthetic line a good cleaning. Upon doing this, I found a good bit of rust on the drum, and the little metal piece that holds the beginning of the winch line. I took the winch apart and all of the internals of the winch and grease looked brand new. I wire brushed the drum and attachment piece. I was going to just paint but then thought it may easily rust again, so I bought some cans of por15 and gave the drum and attachment a couple of coats since it will be significantly harder of a coating and resist wear better. I also removed my recovery points (can't remember the name of them on here when I got them) and covered them with POR15 as they had some surface rust.
The winch hook, while a very good design, was getting rusty and I didn't like not having anywhere to attach it besides under the vehicle at the recovery point. My buddy has a factor 55 on his and I really liked it. Ordered the safety yellow one, and really wasn't a fan of it, came out as more of an eyesore than what I wanted. So sent it back and got the gray, it's a semi close match to the body's paint.

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Built a workbench up at my dads shop and cleared out some space to begin a new project. Tools bought:vise, chop saw, drill press, auto darkening welding helmet (to replace my other one).

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Starting my build of an off-road camping trailer. I thought about building something more of a utility trailer with a roof top tent. Then I quickly thought about how hard it would be for Roux to get in and out and that squashed that idea.

If anyone has any suggestions on my frame plans, I'm well open to them.

The crossmembers that go "over" the hitch tube are actually going to be notched and welded to the sides of the main hitch tube to provide more bracing.

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This looks fantastic! I've got a couple questions. I see you're going to match the wheels to your LC. Are you going to use wheel adapters? If not, how are you going to get the same bolt pattern? No Spare? What axle are you planning on using?
 
This looks fantastic! I've got a couple questions. I see you're going to match the wheels to your LC. Are you going to use wheel adapters? If not, how are you going to get the same bolt pattern? No Spare? What axle are you planning on using?

I plan on using the Timbren axleless suspension, probably the 3500hd setup with a 4" drop. I need to call Timbren and ask their advice.
I do plan to run hub adapters to match the 100 series 5x150 pattern. I don't plan to run a spare for the trailer but do have an ARB compressor, CO2 bottle and building a mount for it on the trailer, ARB tire repair kit, and probably keep a bottle of slime stored in the trailer.

Oh and hitch will be a max coupler.
 
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Thanks for the comparison, I'm currently leaning towards a Dissent rear bumper...
The Slee doesn't require to cut the rear crossmember?

First off, having a swing out is a PITA for getting into the rear of the vehicle. I had a 4x4 labs on my 80 before. You will find yourself using the tailgate a lot less.

These are my opinion:
Slee:
Pros: build quality (welds, steel used, design, spindle caps), smooth powdercoat, no cutting of rear crossmember, swing outs lock open.
Cons: more expensive, opening the swing outs is a two hand job, less customization (have to have ladder on left), rear tire "jiggles" more

BIOR:
Pros: less expensive, more open to customizing, can open the swing outs with one hand.
Cons: the pins that "lock" the swing arms need a lot of maintenance (will rust), requires cutting of rear crossmember.

There may be some other things I'm missing, that's just the main things I can think of off the top of my head. If I were spending my money, I'd probably go with the BIOR and use the nearly 1000$ to spend on other mods. Which is what I did the first time and I added one of BIOR's skid plates to the order haha.
 
Thanks for the comparison, I'm currently leaning towards a Dissent rear bumper...
The Slee doesn't require to cut the rear crossmember?

Correct no cutting with the slee.
 
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Added a Yost 6" vise to the work bench. I also added some 2x4s for bracing under the bench top, and ran a 2x4 from the end of the table down to the bottom of the leg for additional support.

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I can tell you what's not fun or easy, making a square cut through a 6x6 post :|
 
Went bought the steel for the trailer. Had to buy a lot more 2.5x2.5 than I needed adding about $100 to the price. I'll figure out a use for it sometime.

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Evolution Rage 2 steel blade chop saw, this thing cuts like a dream and leaves the metal with a very clean cut with just the slightest burr you can easily remove.

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Might have missed this earlier, did you design the trailer plans yourself?

Yup. Did a lot of research on different designs. Found what I liked and didn't liked and added it all up to make something my own. All for about 1/4 of what I would have paid to have it made. Gorgeous dog btw.
 

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