Man what a great build thread. Found it earlier today and just finished reading through it (a few breaks mixed in). Learned a lot from your research and appreciate your attention to detail/documenting. Look forward to following along.
Build Last of the BJs: 1989 BJ60 restoration, 15B-T swap
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When you're done what do you expect have in this financially?
When do you expect to be done?
When do you expect to be done?
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Thanks! I'd be very happy if others get something out of this long build journey - happy to answer any questions too
On budget, I'm not keeping track. The idea was to have a new Land Cruiser without all the rubbish that new cars have. It will probably be a good bit less than the cost of a new 70 Series (and although these don't have most new car rubbish, I don't want a 1HZ or a V6 gasser). Aim to have a roughly working vehicle about 1 year from now (the thread does not currently show all the body work, paint prep and painting of all chassis/engine components which go on the chassis and under the bonnet, which is mostly finished).
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In pic 9/94 on page 11, there is a "centre bearing installation SST" with an attachment to install the input gear. Can the OP or anyone give more details on the SST? I need to make one to install the same input gear on my transfer case. Does the SST include a bolt that threads into the transmission output shaft to squeeze the tube in toward the front case? If so, what is the bolt size, and tube diameter?
Builds - Last of the BJs: 1989 GEN BJ60 restoration, 15B-T swap - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/last-of-the-bjs-1989-gen-bj60-restoration-15b-t-swap.1297034/page-11
Builds - Last of the BJs: 1989 GEN BJ60 restoration, 15B-T swap - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/last-of-the-bjs-1989-gen-bj60-restoration-15b-t-swap.1297034/page-11
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See post #79 in this thread.
Post in thread 'Last of the BJs: 1989 GEN BJ60 restoration, 15B-T swap' Builds - Last of the BJs: 1989 GEN BJ60 restoration, 15B-T swap - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/last-of-the-bjs-1989-gen-bj60-restoration-15b-t-swap.1297034/post-14780566
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Thank you, but "this" link is dead. Anyhow, I got the input gear on no sweat with a tube, wood blocks, and gentle taps.
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Sorry about that, I have edited the previos post.
Post #79 (on Page 4 of this thread) describes exactly how I made the tool.
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PTO case rebuild 4
At this stage, I ran into another small problem, namely that dear Toyota decided to stop supplying the O-rings for the PTO box. This started an investigation and has ended up in me having quite a few useless O-rings due to my trial-and-error approach. One of the problems was that the old O-rings were distorted by age and maybe wear, so it was not just a simple matter of measuring what came out and buying O-rings to match.
The first O-ring in question is for the PTO shift fork shaft, 96711-24012.
My first approach, knowing that Toyota often use non-metric
O-rings, was to try my luck with an imperial BS112 O-ring (2.62 x 12.37mm). This O-ring was too fat and the shift fork shaft chewed chunks out of it during installation. I then looked through O-rings in the parts catalogue and realised that parts starting 96711 are standard JIS O-rings (which come in thicknesses of 1.9, 2.4 and 3.1 mm). For example, 96711-19013, as used in the vehicle's PAS pump, is 1.9 mm thickness and approximately 13 mm ID. The standard JIS IDs are 12.6 and 13.6 mm, so I would guess that it's 12.6 mm.
In the case of 96711-24012, the -24012 suffix means it is a 2.4 mm thick O-ring of approximately 12 mm ID. There are JIS sizes of 11.8 mm and 12.3 mm so it really could be either. I ordererd a Suzuki 2.4 x 12.3 mm O ring (09280-12008) which thankfully turned out to be a perfect fit. Here it is next to a new felt shaft dust seal.
O-ring and felt seal installed in the PTO case bore.
The PTO shift fork. I've already started the slotted pin in the hole.
The pin is driven home through the shift for shaft through the oil filler hole in the PTO case.
Looking good.
EO
At this stage, I ran into another small problem, namely that dear Toyota decided to stop supplying the O-rings for the PTO box. This started an investigation and has ended up in me having quite a few useless O-rings due to my trial-and-error approach. One of the problems was that the old O-rings were distorted by age and maybe wear, so it was not just a simple matter of measuring what came out and buying O-rings to match.
The first O-ring in question is for the PTO shift fork shaft, 96711-24012.
My first approach, knowing that Toyota often use non-metric
O-rings, was to try my luck with an imperial BS112 O-ring (2.62 x 12.37mm). This O-ring was too fat and the shift fork shaft chewed chunks out of it during installation. I then looked through O-rings in the parts catalogue and realised that parts starting 96711 are standard JIS O-rings (which come in thicknesses of 1.9, 2.4 and 3.1 mm). For example, 96711-19013, as used in the vehicle's PAS pump, is 1.9 mm thickness and approximately 13 mm ID. The standard JIS IDs are 12.6 and 13.6 mm, so I would guess that it's 12.6 mm.In the case of 96711-24012, the -24012 suffix means it is a 2.4 mm thick O-ring of approximately 12 mm ID. There are JIS sizes of 11.8 mm and 12.3 mm so it really could be either. I ordererd a Suzuki 2.4 x 12.3 mm O ring (09280-12008) which thankfully turned out to be a perfect fit. Here it is next to a new felt shaft dust seal.
O-ring and felt seal installed in the PTO case bore.
The PTO shift fork. I've already started the slotted pin in the hole.
The pin is driven home through the shift for shaft through the oil filler hole in the PTO case.
Looking good.
EO
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PTO case rebuild 5
Detent ball, spring, new copper gasket and original plug.
Detent ball assembly installed along with a new filler port plug and aluminium gasket.
I put thread lock on the plug to seal the back side of the shift for shaft bore in the case. No doubt a favourite target of sloppy mechanics looking for the filler plug.
A brand new (I'm amazed that these are still available) shift fork shaft boot for the front side of the shift fork shaft.
Almost finished.
EO
Detent ball, spring, new copper gasket and original plug.
Detent ball assembly installed along with a new filler port plug and aluminium gasket.
I put thread lock on the plug to seal the back side of the shift for shaft bore in the case. No doubt a favourite target of sloppy mechanics looking for the filler plug.
A brand new (I'm amazed that these are still available) shift fork shaft boot for the front side of the shift fork shaft.
Almost finished.
EO
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PTO case rebuild 6
There are two more shafts to inset in the case; one is referred to as an 'idler' gear shaft, which carried an idler gear in early versions of the PTO case (with forward and reverse gears), but is now just a mounting for the PTO drive link lever (which moves the shift fork shaft). The other is the input shaft gear. Again, we have an O-ring issue. There are three identical O-rings to seal these shafts in their bores, P/N 90301-14030, once again discontinued by Toyota. Part numbers starting 90301 are specific O rings for a certain application. 90301-14xxx will be a 14 mm (approximately) ID O-ring, but the other numbers have no dimensional meaning. So this time it really was a case of trial and error (with plenty of error). I tried the following:
BS114 - 2.62 x 15.54 mm - a good fit thickness-wise, but too loose on the 15.0 mm shaft groove.
96711-24015 (JIS 2.4 x 14.8 mm) - a stretch fit, but too thin to make up the groove depth and seal against the bore.
Metric 3.0 x 14.5 mm - too thick.
I then found some intermediate British Standard O-ring sizes and found BS616. This is 2.62 x 15.08 and is a perfect fit. Going by the original part name, I suspect the original O rings would have been maybe a tiny bit below 15.00 mm, but it could be that these are exactly what Toyota used. Pictured, left to right, are the original, BS616, and metric 3.0 x 14.5 mm O-rings.
Two O-rings on the 'idler' shaft, with locking tab and bolt.
Drive link lever with new pivot pin, spring washer and cotter pin.
The PTO lever, mounted to the side of the transmission, attaches to the top of the drive lever link.
EO
There are two more shafts to inset in the case; one is referred to as an 'idler' gear shaft, which carried an idler gear in early versions of the PTO case (with forward and reverse gears), but is now just a mounting for the PTO drive link lever (which moves the shift fork shaft). The other is the input shaft gear. Again, we have an O-ring issue. There are three identical O-rings to seal these shafts in their bores, P/N 90301-14030, once again discontinued by Toyota. Part numbers starting 90301 are specific O rings for a certain application. 90301-14xxx will be a 14 mm (approximately) ID O-ring, but the other numbers have no dimensional meaning. So this time it really was a case of trial and error (with plenty of error). I tried the following:
BS114 - 2.62 x 15.54 mm - a good fit thickness-wise, but too loose on the 15.0 mm shaft groove.
96711-24015 (JIS 2.4 x 14.8 mm) - a stretch fit, but too thin to make up the groove depth and seal against the bore.
Metric 3.0 x 14.5 mm - too thick.
I then found some intermediate British Standard O-ring sizes and found BS616. This is 2.62 x 15.08 and is a perfect fit. Going by the original part name, I suspect the original O rings would have been maybe a tiny bit below 15.00 mm, but it could be that these are exactly what Toyota used. Pictured, left to right, are the original, BS616, and metric 3.0 x 14.5 mm O-rings.
Two O-rings on the 'idler' shaft, with locking tab and bolt.
Drive link lever with new pivot pin, spring washer and cotter pin.
The PTO lever, mounted to the side of the transmission, attaches to the top of the drive lever link.
EO
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PTO case rebuild 7
A very vintage NOS input gear shaft to replace the original which was slightly worn. I had to clean up some minor surface rust on the NOS shaft but it came up near perfect.
Input gear and shaft. The brass bushing in the gear is a bit worn and ideally I would like to replace it, but it would have to be custom made. Most likely it will get such occasional use that being a little sloppier than I would like will never be an issue. I'll just be sure to regularly engage the PTO to keep the bushing oiled.
Locking tab and bolt complete the build.
Front view.
Rear view.
EO
A very vintage NOS input gear shaft to replace the original which was slightly worn. I had to clean up some minor surface rust on the NOS shaft but it came up near perfect.
Input gear and shaft. The brass bushing in the gear is a bit worn and ideally I would like to replace it, but it would have to be custom made. Most likely it will get such occasional use that being a little sloppier than I would like will never be an issue. I'll just be sure to regularly engage the PTO to keep the bushing oiled.
Locking tab and bolt complete the build.
Front view.
Rear view.
EO
Gosh Thank you Eurasia, just went through the whole lot. You are exceptionally meticulous on every level and well suited for mud. Obviously very bright and a good writer which is rare for mechanically minded people. Your adventures are amazing.
I am building a second hj75 troopy and did the transfer, diffs, steer box, steer pump too but not the courage to do the gear box. I have not documented and posted the build as folks like yourself are so thoroughly more professional than myself, it puts me to shame. Money and time is another factor which slows me as I have family. I wish I did my body before even starting the mechanical stuff, it is noisy and dusty, panel work. Love your rotisserie! Looking forward to see your body.
I am just about to mate the bell to the block and weld in the engine mounts to the chassis..
My first troopy is indeed orange, as it came from the factory, actually kubota orange, used for the rural fire brigades. It was a good price and well maintained, so stand out dog testicle orange it is. I got used to it and shall stay local anyways.
How come you didn't use solid spacers in your diffs? Thanks again, all the best.
I am building a second hj75 troopy and did the transfer, diffs, steer box, steer pump too but not the courage to do the gear box. I have not documented and posted the build as folks like yourself are so thoroughly more professional than myself, it puts me to shame. Money and time is another factor which slows me as I have family. I wish I did my body before even starting the mechanical stuff, it is noisy and dusty, panel work. Love your rotisserie! Looking forward to see your body.
I am just about to mate the bell to the block and weld in the engine mounts to the chassis..
My first troopy is indeed orange, as it came from the factory, actually kubota orange, used for the rural fire brigades. It was a good price and well maintained, so stand out dog testicle orange it is. I got used to it and shall stay local anyways.
How come you didn't use solid spacers in your diffs? Thanks again, all the best.
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Hi Sodafeld
Thank you very much indeed for such high praise! It was really nice to come in and read this after a morning of rubbing down seam sealer, rubbing back primer and endlessly blowing off dust. It's great motivation when I feel like I'm not getting much closer to painting, let alone to a working vehicle. Thank you.
What's the HJ75 project? Welding in engine mounts makes me think engine swap? You're giving us just a glimpse of that 2H but it looks beautifully restored. I wish I had zinc electroplating nearby. Is that RAL5015 on the block? I have a pot ready to repaint the 15B-T.
I think it's very personal whether to document a build - I have to say I put it up here mostly to record it for myself to look back on later, much like the travel reports on my website. Nothing professional about me
I wish I could have limited myself to just doing the mechanical parts of the car - those are the bits I truly enjoy, and even the time spent rebuilding an engine or transmission seems like nothing compared to the labour of doing the bodywork right (and I claim zero skills in car bodywork, though I'm keen to try new things). The car really wasn't too bad bodywork-wise beforehand, though I felt it was at that point where it would deteriorate if not dealt with. Plus the paint job was hideous when looked at closely. But bodywork is really what has me telling myself I'll never do this again...Why no solid spacers? Well, I got into Toyotas through travelling in my Hilux, and I realised that it was always the user-added accessories or aftermarket parts that fail, so am deeply mistrustful of any innovation - a real fundamentalist for keeping it all genuine, factory spec. If I think about it rationally, the solid spacer is probably a better option but it's hard to shake the belief! With taper bearing pre-load I always go for the upper end of the range and hope that it will go for years without backing off.
I'm not sure when I'll get round to documenting the bodywork, it does not really lend itself to step-by-step build threads like a steering box or PTO box, but I'll drop a couple of pictures (taken at night in my poorly lit outdoor garage) of where I am right now - body 99% primed.
Again, thanks for the kind words!
EO
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Professional as in you like to do a good job! Methodical. Not everyone gets a like from OG, I think i annoy him more so! Haha, but he is a wizard for sure.Hi Sodafeld
Thank you very much indeed for such high praise! It was really nice to come in and read this after a morning of rubbing down seam sealer, rubbing back primer and endlessly blowing off dust. It's great motivation when I feel like I'm not getting much closer to painting, let alone to a working vehicle. Thank you.
What's the HJ75 project? Welding in engine mounts makes me think engine swap? You're giving us just a glimpse of that 2H but it looks beautifully restored. I wish I had zinc electroplating nearby. Is that RAL5015 on the block? I have a pot ready to repaint the 15B-T.
I think it's very personal whether to document a build - I have to say I put it up here mostly to record it for myself to look back on later, much like the travel reports on my website. Nothing professional about me
Why no solid spacers? Well, I got into Toyotas through travelling in my Hilux, and I realised that it was always the user-added accessories or aftermarket parts that fail, so am deeply mistrustful of any innovation - a real fundamentalist for keeping it all genuine, factory spec. If I think about it rationally, the solid spacer is probably a better option but it's hard to shake the belief! With taper bearing pre-load I always go for the upper end of the range and hope that it will go for years without backing off.
I'm not sure when I'll get round to documenting the bodywork, it does not really lend itself to step-by-step build threads like a steering box or PTO box, but I'll drop a couple of pictures (taken at night in my poorly lit open outdoor garage) of where I am right now - body 99% primed.
View attachment 3754698
View attachment 3754699
Again, thanks for the kind words!
EO
Also impressed with how much history you have learned from your travels. Just finished reading a history of alexander the great and of recent I meet many Iranians coming to oz, even my dentist is a Iran woman. Melbourne is exceptionally multicultural, good for food. Good film is 'Latcho drom' it depicts real musicians starting in Rajasthan and ending in Spain, no dialogue or actors, real people. Music is a good way to travel, there is a fella on here who does it in his hj47 troopy.
Persian architecture is supreme. The thing about Islamic art is that figurative depiction was banned for 800 years, so patterns of nature and mathematics were drawn upon heavily. A unique history, why calligraphy became important. But you probably know this.
I believe solid spacers use to be used in most diffs originally, crush spacers were introduced as a faster manufacturing process. What is great about mud is someone shall correct me if I am wrong. Solid spacers make sense to me, especially if towing ,even on the occasion.
It is kbs motor coater, think chrysler blue. It applies nice by brush.
The fuel lines are worth electroplating in my opinion but I have seen in diesel student books where the whole engine and fuel lines are just painted for cummins etc. I gave electroplating a go myself too, came out dull grey. But the pros do it way better and pretty cheap for how much better than paint, like $10 a fuel line. Impressive factory to visit.
I originally got a hj75 wreck during covid melbourne lockdown for $2500 aud, but nearly everything is a wreck. The chassis was too far gone in my opinion so I found a good fj75 chassis for a good price $150 but different engine mounts.
I prefer spanners to grinding any day personally, the noise the dust, the paint, the smells...doesn't help that I am doing the build in fairly high density suburbia.
There are some pros on here which are truly master panel beaters, body builders. Poo all over me, very humbling.
Your body looks good, very envious of your rotisserie, it has got me thinking of trying something similar with two engine cranes.. Much time and money goes to my children, so things are very slow for me.
Good stuff mate!
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Power steering pump second rebuild 1
I've been putting some serious hours into the build lately, mostly bodywork/primer (which I don't much enjoy) but to keep myself sane there have been mechanical projects in between.
One thing on my mind was the power steering pump, which I mentioned some time back here. I was thinking just to use it on the 3BII as an interim measure before getting a 14/15B with on board PAS pump. After getting my Megacruiser 15B-T, which has a high output twin rotor power steering pump (Megacruisers have 4 wheel steering), I decided I wanted to keep the original BJ60 belt driven pump.
So the hasty re-seal I did a year or two ago won't do, I want to give it the full treatment and ensure it's good for another 36 years.
I'd picked up this NOS shaft from a Daihatsu dealer, they are NLA so it was too good to pass up on.
Taking the pump apart I found that there was plenty of light scoring on the internal face of the cam ring (the sealing face for the vanes). There is also some pitting on both sides where the vanes start each compression stage of the cycle.
Luckily the cam ring is still in production. I also ordered 10 vanes and a new back plate. The rotor seems to be unavailable (maybe temporarily, maybe permanently), and the front housing of the pump is definitely NLA. But the vane to cam ring surface is the most critical as I see it.
So I transferred the previously new NTN bearing onto the new shaft with a new snap ring:
I took off the black paint I'd slopped on previously and after a lot of masking, sprayed both parts of the housing with a light coat of epoxy primer then 2k semi gloss black.
Time to put that shaft back in:
Tap in a new seal. I protected the front face of the seal with tape so there are no witness marks from the socket:
EO
I've been putting some serious hours into the build lately, mostly bodywork/primer (which I don't much enjoy) but to keep myself sane there have been mechanical projects in between.
One thing on my mind was the power steering pump, which I mentioned some time back here. I was thinking just to use it on the 3BII as an interim measure before getting a 14/15B with on board PAS pump. After getting my Megacruiser 15B-T, which has a high output twin rotor power steering pump (Megacruisers have 4 wheel steering), I decided I wanted to keep the original BJ60 belt driven pump.
So the hasty re-seal I did a year or two ago won't do, I want to give it the full treatment and ensure it's good for another 36 years.
I'd picked up this NOS shaft from a Daihatsu dealer, they are NLA so it was too good to pass up on.
Taking the pump apart I found that there was plenty of light scoring on the internal face of the cam ring (the sealing face for the vanes). There is also some pitting on both sides where the vanes start each compression stage of the cycle.
Luckily the cam ring is still in production. I also ordered 10 vanes and a new back plate. The rotor seems to be unavailable (maybe temporarily, maybe permanently), and the front housing of the pump is definitely NLA. But the vane to cam ring surface is the most critical as I see it.
So I transferred the previously new NTN bearing onto the new shaft with a new snap ring:
I took off the black paint I'd slopped on previously and after a lot of masking, sprayed both parts of the housing with a light coat of epoxy primer then 2k semi gloss black.
Time to put that shaft back in:
Tap in a new seal. I protected the front face of the seal with tape so there are no witness marks from the socket:
EO
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Power steering pump second rebuild 2
Now for the rear housing assembly. The old plug for the control valve which goes through the housing was rusted on the outside and had been bent out of shape by my sloppy install last time. Looking through a hand lens I see that I also took a small chunk out of the O-ring. There was a slight bit of corrosion on the outer edge of the bore so I gave it a quick spell in the electrolysis tank to get it back to clean iron. The new plug gets a new O-ring:
This went in very smoothly with a dab of ATF on the O-ring.
New spring for the flow control valve. Not critical but the old spring had lost 2-3 mm of length over the years. the valve still moves smoothly though the rear housing bore under its own weight so passes the FSM checks - a good thing as they are NLA.
You can see the valve in the rear housing. It's there to relieve pressure at high RPMs when the pump does not need to work flat out. It's at low RPM that the pump's full output is required.
Finally the fluid output union. Sadly the black oxide coating has deteriorated but the union is NLA, so I have to re-use it.
EO
Now for the rear housing assembly. The old plug for the control valve which goes through the housing was rusted on the outside and had been bent out of shape by my sloppy install last time. Looking through a hand lens I see that I also took a small chunk out of the O-ring. There was a slight bit of corrosion on the outer edge of the bore so I gave it a quick spell in the electrolysis tank to get it back to clean iron. The new plug gets a new O-ring:
This went in very smoothly with a dab of ATF on the O-ring.
New spring for the flow control valve. Not critical but the old spring had lost 2-3 mm of length over the years. the valve still moves smoothly though the rear housing bore under its own weight so passes the FSM checks - a good thing as they are NLA.
You can see the valve in the rear housing. It's there to relieve pressure at high RPMs when the pump does not need to work flat out. It's at low RPM that the pump's full output is required.
Finally the fluid output union. Sadly the black oxide coating has deteriorated but the union is NLA, so I have to re-use it.
EO
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Power steering pump second rebuild 3
Time for the new bits. Firstly the new cam ring (in the standard 'no mark' size):
Look at that smooth inner surface.
After placing the rotor on the splined section of the drive shaft, the cam ring goes on.
Now the ten new vanes:
All slotted into the rotor with the rounded edges against the cam ring. In operation, the vanes are pushed against the cam ring by pump pressure.
EO
Time for the new bits. Firstly the new cam ring (in the standard 'no mark' size):
Look at that smooth inner surface.
After placing the rotor on the splined section of the drive shaft, the cam ring goes on.
Now the ten new vanes:
All slotted into the rotor with the rounded edges against the cam ring. In operation, the vanes are pushed against the cam ring by pump pressure.
EO
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Power steering pump second rebuild 4
New end plate:
Placed on top of the cam ring, rotor and vanes, this completes the internals of the pump.
I gave the reservoir a good wash in petrol to ensure there is no old dirt or grit inside. A small amount was washed out. Then time for a new label.
Looking good:
Test fitted to the 15B-T. I assume that the 15B-F/-FT, which has a very different cylinder head, would not accept this pump bracket, so this might be the first time that this factory belt driven PAS pump has ever been fitted to a 15B.
EO
P.S. Sorry for the poor quality pictures. I have had to get a new phone; something I detest and refuse to spend much money on. So it turns out this latest Korean POS has an awful camera when using the flash. I try to bump up the exposure every time but sometimes I forget. Hateful thing.
New end plate:
Placed on top of the cam ring, rotor and vanes, this completes the internals of the pump.
I gave the reservoir a good wash in petrol to ensure there is no old dirt or grit inside. A small amount was washed out. Then time for a new label.
Looking good:
Test fitted to the 15B-T. I assume that the 15B-F/-FT, which has a very different cylinder head, would not accept this pump bracket, so this might be the first time that this factory belt driven PAS pump has ever been fitted to a 15B.
EO
P.S. Sorry for the poor quality pictures. I have had to get a new phone; something I detest and refuse to spend much money on. So it turns out this latest Korean POS has an awful camera when using the flash. I try to bump up the exposure every time but sometimes I forget. Hateful thing.
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15B-T oil filter bracket
The 3Bii oil filter bracket pointed the oil filter upwards (great for messy oil changes). It also used the smaller -41010 filter with a narrower opening. The turbo engines necessarily have a downward facing filter and use the wider -30002 filter, same as my Hilux (and of which I have a good NOS stash).
I undid the pressure relief valve on the bracket. It seems Toyota don't want you to do this as they do not list the copper washer as a separate part. I managed to outwit them this time and order a washer from a later Hilux with an thin 18 mm washer. The plug is the same as the oil pump relief valve plug, though that comes with a wider washer.
One of my stash of -30002-8T filters (I have also have some Japanese -30002s)
Ready to mount.
EO
The 3Bii oil filter bracket pointed the oil filter upwards (great for messy oil changes). It also used the smaller -41010 filter with a narrower opening. The turbo engines necessarily have a downward facing filter and use the wider -30002 filter, same as my Hilux (and of which I have a good NOS stash).
I undid the pressure relief valve on the bracket. It seems Toyota don't want you to do this as they do not list the copper washer as a separate part. I managed to outwit them this time and order a washer from a later Hilux with an thin 18 mm washer. The plug is the same as the oil pump relief valve plug, though that comes with a wider washer.
One of my stash of -30002-8T filters (I have also have some Japanese -30002s)
Ready to mount.
EO
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