Builds Last of the BJs: 1989 BJ60 restoration, 15B-T swap (1 Viewer)

[Eurasiaoverland]

Transfer rebuild 5

With the transmission assembly now in a stand (in my living room), the transfer internals can be built up. First, a new idler shaft as the original was a bit rough.

Pushed into the rear case assembly. I have not got a picture of the install of the front drive shift fork and shaft assembly, but it's in there, along with the detent spring, ball and plug.

New needle roller bearings for the idler gear, new thrust washer and original spacer.

Installed with a bit of MP grease.

The so called oil-receiver bolted back onto the front side of the idler gear.

EO

 

[Eurasiaoverland]

Transfer rebuild 6

Original idler gear installed. I checked the high range side teeth, internal bearing surfaces and thrust surfaces for signs of wear or damage, but other than the staining from having sat in dirty oil most of its life (I would guess), it looks fine. Hopefully it won't be noisy running against new gears.

I'm putting in a new transfer input gear for three reasons: (i) there was some wear on the original; (ii) I am running a new transmission output shaft and (iii) this is the later type gear with a groove for an O ring where it is pressed against the rear transmission output shaft rear bearing. The O ring is 90301-34005 and I think, together with the double lipped oil seal, reduces the chances of the classic transmission-transfer oil leak.

O ring fitted against the transmission output shaft rear bearing.

I made an attachment for my H55F output shaft centre bearing installation SST to cover the shorter length of the transmission output shaft which is exposed when installing the transfer input gear. Unfortunately, the threads on the tie rod end I had repurposed to make this tool started to strip (I think because it was bent), so I had to hammer the gear on to get it fully home. If you have to hammer it, make sure (by checking 1st gear thrust clearance) that you are not working the transmission output shaft back out of the output shaft centre bearing.

Fully home against the transmission output shaft rear bearing. The input gear and idler gear teeth align perfectly.

EO

 

[Eurasiaoverland]

Transfer rebuild 7

Like an idiot, I managed to break the original transfer output shaft front bearing retainer during installation (broke off a locating tab by not watching what I was doing), but luckily they are fairly cheap. Here with the new transfer output shaft front bearing race. This step should really be done before installing the idler gear, but you can sneak it in by pulling forward the idler gear a little. No need to remove the idler shaft.

The race pushes into the retainer by hand.

Installed in the case.

Add the PTO output gear and spacer.

Then tap on the transfer input shaft bearing. This Nachi bearing (90363-35013) is the same as the transfer front output shaft bearing.

EO

 

[Eurasiaoverland]

Transfer rebuild 8

What really took time on the transfer rebuild (aside from my continuous procrastination on whether to replace certain parts) was the output shaft cluster. The PO must either have somehow contaminated or used the wrong oil in the transfer case (and pretty much never changed it), and the yellow metal was blackened and crusty. The high range output gear was worn (some gear wear and thrust face wear), and the brass bushing was a blackened shell. The low range gear, which was probably never used (and therefore free-ran on the shaft its entire life) looked pretty much new in terms of wear, but the brass bushing stayed on the output shaft when the gear was pulled off. The output shaft was galled and needed replacing. I also replaced the front hub as some idiot had gone to town on this with a hammer at some point. Obviously, the front output bearing also gets replaced.

A new high range output gear. It's worth noting that the oil hole on this gear does not align with the machined grooves on the inner bore of the gear, as some people falsely claim is necessary. My guess is that these grooves are here to get some purchase on the brass bushing and stop it from spinning inside the gear.

With my favourite puller, I pressed the front output shaft bearing and front hub onto the new shaft, with the new high range output gear in place. I'm using the old output gear as something for the puller arms to grab on to.

The cluster is taking shape.

A snap ring hold the hub in place on the shaft.

EO

 

[OGBeno]

Great work. Great documentation. Will be valuable to people in the future because you have spent time thinking about the small nuances of a build.

Solid.

 

[Eurasiaoverland]

Transfer rebuild 9

A new pilot bearing goes into the front end of the transfer output shaft. I have a small puller which could have been made just for installing these bearings. This one slid in beautifully.

Fully seated

I decided to go for a new high/low shift sleeve, as the teeth on the old one were slightly worn.

Everything brand new here.

EO

 

[Eurasiaoverland]

Transfer rebuild 10

What really took time was the low range output gear. Toyota want quite a sum for a new one and, while the gear was pretty much perfect, that brass bushing inside was absolutely wrecked. Frankly, I don't know what Toyota were thinking when they kept using the bushing on manual transmission transfer cases, when the autos got a (in my mind much more sensible) needle roller bearing. Perhaps an engineer can enlighten me as to any reason. Anyway, I was not prepared to buy a whole new gear just to replaced this damned bushing, so went about trying to replace it myself.

The very earliest 60s had brass bushings listed in the EPC, P/N 90999-73089. I tried this one first, but as you can see, it is oversized. The swage patterns in the bushing are also not the same as the OEM gear. I assume it needs to be turned down before installation, but I only realised this after I had pressed it in.

After ruining the bushing with an adjustable reamer (learning: adjustable hand reamers are no good for precision work), I drove the bushing out again. Another MUD member (who learned this from Georg - thanks again!) informed me that the 40 Series bushing, P/N 90999-73079 is a better fit. Pictured here are the original blackened husk of a bushing (left; it appears thicker than the others because I used it to drive out the oversized bushing), 90999-73079 (centre) and 90999-73089 (right; after being unsympathetically driven out of the low range gear again. The 40 bushing is actually slightly shorter than the original.

This time, I installed the bushing with a camshaft bearing tool.

Then, after not getting anywhere with a small hone, I took it to a machine shop. This one is in Bandar Seri Begawan (just 'Bandar' or BSB in the vernacular), the capital of this wonderful country I live in. The shop is owned by an uncle of a friend of mine.

Finally getting the treatment; the bushing was turned on the lathe until it had an oil clearance of about 0.08 mm. Then a touch of emery to get it to just about spin freely on the new shaft. This was major progress on the build - it had been over 18 months since I first pressed in the 60 Series bushing!

EO

 

[Eurasiaoverland]

Transfer rebuild 11

Finally, the parts are ready to complete the transfer rebuild; the partly assembled output shaft cluster from long ago; the recently sized low range gear, and a new output shaft rear bearing.

Pressed together with my improvised press (a 6 ton jack and my house).

With the high/neutral/low shift fork and shaft.

Installed in the transfer case front half.

The full works.

EO

 

[Eurasiaoverland]

Transfer rebuild 12

I forgot to cover the 4WD indicator switch install - here is 84222-60022, which is about half the price of the original -60021 and differs only in the position at which the wires emerge from the switch. Shown also is my 27 mm SST socket for torquing the switch correctly.

Here you can see how the switch ball sits on the front drive shift fork.

New detent ball springs 90501-16115.

Detent ball, spring and plug. Use threadlock when installing the plug.

Switch and detent ball assembly installed.

EO

 

[Eurasiaoverland]

Transfer rebuild 13

New thrust washer on the rear transfer case half.

I put on a very thin bead of Permatex Ultra black, to cover ant tiny imperfections on old sealing surfaces.

The gasket kit I've been using for the whole H55F and transfer rebuild. Time for the very largest gasket...

...stuck onto a similar thin bead of silicone RTV on the front case half.

Closed up. There's a bit of a knack to getting the high/neutral/low shift lever to engage in the shift fork as you put the rear case half on, and it's possible to put it on misaligned.

EO

 

[Eurasiaoverland]

Transfer rebuild 14

Original spacer, new speedometer drive gear and new thrust washer (which was missing from my transfer).

I'm using drive gear 33481-60061, which is a 6x15-17. That means the drive gear has 6 teeth and the driven gear can have 15, 16 or 17 teeth. The transfer came with a non-standard 6x18-20 drive gear and a 20 tooth driven gear.

Spacer, gear and washer on the rear output shaft. Ready for the rear bearing pre-load setting.

Don't forget the rear idler O ring and locking tab. I put threadlock on this little bolt as they seem to be a weak point.

A good time to do the high/neutral/low range selector detent assembly.

EO

 

[Eurasiaoverland]

Transfer rebuild 15

Removing the old dust shield from the front output shaft flange.

A new dust shield. The original 60 Series front output flange, 33309-60070 is NLA, but you can make one by buying a rear output flange, 33309-60041 and dust shield, and switch over the shields.

Done. I switched the one good stud on the rear output flange for the one bad one on the front flange.

New lock nuts and original washers (for both flanges).

A smear of silicone RTV on the back side of the flange splines, to stop oil creeping out.

EO

 

[Eurasiaoverland]

Transfer rebuild 16

I made an SST to hold the transfer output (and PTO output) flanges. Simple, but it works. The nut gets 127 Nm. I will wait until the rear output flange is on to stake it, just in case.

Now for the rear of the transmission output shaft. This nut keeps the transfer input gear, PTO drive gear and transfer input bearing in place.

With the SST still on the front output flange and the transfer in 4H or 4L, this nut also gets 127 Nm and is then staked. It's a thick nut and I had to use both chisel and punch to get the result I was happy with.

Now for the input shaft cover plate, which gets a new cork gasket. I am using new bolts as they are still supplied in a gold passivated finish.

Done.

EO

 

[Eurasiaoverland]

Transfer rebuild 17

Setting the bearing pre-load on the transfer output shaft is an important step, and one I imagine is frequently overlooked. Sadly, I overlooked to take any pictures.

The adjustment is done by changing the thickness of shims behind the rear bearing race. For new bearings, the breakaway pre-load at the rear output flange should be about 1.8 to 2.4 Nm.

The case came to me with a 0.45 mm shim. Using this (with a paper gasket between the transfer and rear output bearing retainer, I got effectively 0 pre-load.

I had a number of new shims: 0.60 mm and 2 of 0.10 mm. With all these together, I got 2.4 Nm. I like to be at the top-end of pre-load specs, so this turned out to be perfect.

With that, I add the oil slinger to the rear output bearing retainer. This directs oil down to the plastic speedometer driven gear.

Add a new rear output flange oil seal. I love the precision of the factory greasing.

New rear output flange. As the output shaft is new, I figured the flange should be too.

This goes on with some silicone RTV sealant.

Stake neatly with a pin punch.

EO

 

[Eurasiaoverland]

Transfer rebuild 18

Very early on in my build, 2hen I took out the dashboard, I found it was filled with thick brown oil. Although the car leaked oil from every conceivable seal and gasket, this had me stumped. It took me a while to work out that this was creeping up the speedometer cable. So, a new speedometer driven gear housing. Also a new 6x16 driven gear, locking plate and original bolt.

Three driven gears - 6x15, 6x16, 6x20. The 6x20 gear would suit maybe 15" standard wheels and 4.88 gearing. 6x16 is good for standard 16" wheels and my 4.11 gearing. 6x15 is a good spare for me to have in case I fancy bigger tyres.

Gear and housing assembled.

The housing pushes in with just slight resistamce from the O ring, a very satisfying moment. May it record many thousands of kilometres of travel!

And with that, the transfer is effectively finished.

EO

 

[Eurasiaoverland]

Transmission electrics

I decided to prune the transmission wiring loom down to what is needed, and get rid of the wires for the vacuum shift indicator switches and another square plug which I think might have been an A/T temperature sensor.

To make the loom look neat, I am using Japanese sourced convoluted cable conduit, as the non Japanese stuff I have comes in different sizes.

Tape wrapped, with yellow bands to indicate clamping points.

Running down the RH side of the transmission cover.

The 14 mm clamp on one of the transmission to engine bolts.

My car originally came without a tachometer, so the plug for the pickup sensor was exposed for 30+ years and the O ring was rock hard. So time for a new one, OEM of course.

EO

 

[Eurasiaoverland]

Transmission top cover 1

Transfer front drive shift lever link with guard (sourced from Australia as my original was missing). New pivot shaft bushes and shift shaft bushing. Also a new nut and washer.

The new shift shaft bushing needs some force to pop onto the ball stud.

Here's the cleaned up PTO shift lever bracket.

Seems a shame to be closing up the transmission and the beautiful sight of the gear train. In all honesty though, I hope never to have to open it up again.

Bolted down with all the paraphernalia attached.

EO

 

[Eurasiaoverland]

PTO box rebuild 1

As mentioned previously, I have no workshop manual for the PTO box am doing this in an order logical to me.

Starting with PTO output shaft, a new rear bearing (NSK) and the original smap ring (NLA).

Press the new bearing onto the shaft.

The output shaft front bearing is NLA from Toyota, but after searching online, I was very surprised to find a local Daihatsu parts dealer who had one in stock. It took some time to find the place in a maze of industrial units in the capital, but eventually I found the right door. After a 20 minute wait, the parts (the bearing and a spare power steering pump shaft) had been rummaged from deep in the stores, and what a find! I reckon these parts date from the 1980s.

Vintage Daihatsu packaging.

The cleaned up PTO case, front bearing, spacers, output gear and output shaft/rear bearing assembly.

Ready to start building.

EO

 

[Eurasiaoverland]

PTO rebuild 2

A new hole plug for the front of the PTO input shaft bore.

With the output shaft assembly in the case, the front bearing is pressed into place. A snap ring supplied with the bearing stops the output shaft from moving too far back and wearing on the rear bearing cover.

Front view of the case with output shaft installed and bore plug knocked in.

Toyota has stopped production of the output shaft rear bearing cover gasket, so I made my own from 1.6 mm rubberised cork.

Rear view of the PTO box with cover installed.

EO

 

[Eurasiaoverland]

PTO box rebuild 3

Thankfully, Toyota still make the oil seal for the output shaft front bearing.

Oil seal knocked into the retainer.

With the retainer installed, time to install the output flange - with woodruff key, washer, castellated nut and a new cotter pin.

My SST has holes drilled for the PTO flange on the opposing side of the section of angle from the transfer output flange holes. The flange has to be locked in place to torque the nut.

Output flange installed with a new cotter pin.

EO